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*WE  BOOKCASE 


PRACTICAL    DRY   CLEANER,    SCOURER 
AND    GARMENT    DYER. 


Practical  Dry  Cleaner 

Scourer  and  Garment  Dyer 

Comprising 

Dry,   Chemical  or  French   Cleaning;   Purification  of   Benzine; 
Removal   of    Stains   or   Spotting;    Wet    Cleaning,    Including 
the  Cleaning  of  Palm  Beach  Suits  and  Other  Summer  Fab- 
rics;  Finishing   Cleaned    Fabrics;    Cleaning    and    Dye- 
ing Furs,  Skin  Rugs  and  Mats;  Cleaning  and  Dye- 
ing Feathers;  Cleaning  and  Renovating  Felt,  Straw 
and  Panama  Hats;  Bleaching  and  Dyeing  Straw 
and  Straw  Hats;  Cleaning  and  Dyeing  Gloves; 
Garment  Dyeing;  Stripping  Colors  from  Gar- 
ments   and    Fabrics;    Analysis    of    Textile 
Fabrics;    Practical    Chemistry    for    the 
Cleaner   and   Dyer 

Edited  by 

WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT 

Editor  of  "Techno-Chemical  Receipt  Book," 
"Soap  Maker's  Hand  Book."  Etc. 

FIFTH   EDITION,   REVISED,   ENLARGED 
AND   ENTIRELY   RESET 

Edited  by 

J.  B.  GRAY 

Editor  of  "National  Cleaner  and  Dyer" 

ILLUSTRATED    BY   FORTY-ONE    ENGRAVINGS 

NEW   YORK 

HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  Co.,  Inc., 

Publishers  of  Mechanical  and  Industrial  Books 

ii6  Nassau  Street 

1919 


mi  BOOKCASE 


Copyright,  iqr  i   bv 
Henry  Carey  Baird  &  Co. 


Copyright.  19 19  by 
Henry  Carey  Baird  &  Co  .  Inc. 


PrinUd  in  U.S.A. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  FIFTH  EDITION. 

During  the  past  several  years  the  cleaning  and  dye- 
ing industry  has  experienced  a  wonderful  growth. 
Many  new  plants  have  been  constructed  throughout 
the  country-,  and  many  of  the  older  plants  remodeled, 
enlarged  and  re-equipped  to  take  care  of  the  growing 
demands  for  cleaning  and  dyeing  service. 

This  growth  was  healthy  and  natural  and  will  most 
likely  continue.  It  has  been  due,  in  the  main,  to  an 
expanding  realization  on  the  part  of  the  public  that 
the  cleaning  and  dyeing  plant  is  an  important  factor 
in  the  scheme  of  present-day  living  and  that  by  the 
aid  of  the  cleaner  and  dyer  one  is  able  to  present  a  neat 
appearance  at  all  times  at  a  small  cost.  The  growth 
of  the  industry  will  continue  as  this  knowledge  spreads 
and  as  more  people  learn  and  appreciate  that  the 
cleaning  plant  is  an  aid  to  thrift  and  better  health 
through  its  ability  to  keep  the  outer  garments  clean 
and  in  a  sanitary  condition. 

Improvements  in  equipment  and  methods  have  kept 
pace  with  the  growth  of  the  industrj^  New  processes 
and  machinery  are  continually  being  designed  to  im- 
prove the  quality  of  the  work,  decrease  the  cost  and 
render  to  the  public  a  better  quality  of  ser\'ice.  These 
facts  were  kept  in  mind  when  preparing  the  fifth  edition 
of  Practical  Dry  Cleaner,  Scourer  and  Garment  Dyer  for 
presentation  to  the  industry'.  All  obsolete  matter  has 
been  eliminated,  each  chapter  has  been  thoroughly  re- 


VI  PREFACE    TO   THE    FIFTH    EDITION. 

vised  and  has  had  such  new  matter  added  to  it  as  was 
necessar\'  to  bring  the  book  up  to  date  and  give  to  its 
readers  the  latest  and  best  practices  for  doing  the  dif- 
ferent processes  of  cleaning  and  dyeing.  One  new 
chapter  on  "Practical  Chemistr>'  for  the  Cleaner  and 
Dyer"  has  also  been  added,  which,  it  is  believed,  will 
materially  increase  the  book's  interest  and  value. 

In  revising  the  book  the  chapters  on  spotting,  dry 
cleaning,  wet  cleaning  and  garment  dyeing  especially 
received  consideration.  Those  sections  dealing  with 
dyeing  were  completely  re\'ised  and  consideration  was 
given  only  to  dyes  of  American  manufacture.  This 
was  necessary  because  of  the  fact  that  ver>'  few  foreign- 
made  dyes  are  available  in  this  country'  at  this  time. 

The  writer  especially  desires  to  acknowledge,  with 
full  appreciation,  the  valuable  assistance  rendered  to 
him  by  Josef  Lobel,  expert  garment  dyer,  in  revising 
those  sections  of  the  book  dealing  with  the  dyeing  of 
garments,  hats,  gloves,  feathers  and  furs. 

J.  B.  Gray. 

Chicago,  III.,  March  21,  1919. 


CONTENTS. 

I. 

Dry,  Chemical,  or  French  Cleaning. 

Discovery  of  the  detergent  powers  of  gasoline ;  Early  method 

of  dry  cleaning ;   Reasons  for  the  success  of  dry  cleaning .  .  I 
Betterment  of  social  conditions  by  dry  cleaning;   Connection 
between  dry  cleaning  and  wet  cleaning;  Growing  tendency 

of  combining  the  two  methods  under  one  roof 2 

Value  of  dry  cleaning  for  certain  purposes;    Origin  of  the 

phrase  "dry  cleaning";    Definition  of  dry  cleaning 3 

Solvents  that  may  be  used  in  dry  cleaning;   Mistakes  made 
with  regard  to  the  business;    Knowledge  required  by  an 

expert 4 

Constitution  of  most  stains  in  garments;  Advantages  of  dry 

cleaning ;    Fluids  used  in  dry  cleaning 5 

Different  grades  of  petroleum  products 6 

Characteristics  of  benzine 7 

Method  of  testing  benzine  to  be  used  for  dry  cleaning  pur- 
poses   8 

Dr.  M.  Richter's  discovery  of  antibenzinpyrin 9 

Solubility  of  benzine  soap 10 

Preparation  of  antibenzinpyrin 11 

Saponine , 12 

Universal   benzine    soap;     Weralin;     Liquid  benzine  soap; 

Soaps  freely  soluble  in  benzine 13 

Preparation  of  soaps  freely  soluble  in  benzine 14 

Benzine  soap  formulas 15 

Solid  benzine  soap 16 

Benzole  and  its  properties 17 

Turpentine  and  its  properties 18 

Varieties  of  turpentine 19 

Carbon  tetrachloride  and  its  properties 20 

Advantages  of  carbon  tetrachloride  for  cleaning  purposes.  .  21 
Carbon  tetrachloride  for  stain  removal;   Storage  of  carbon 

tetrachloride 22 

Precautions  to  be  taken  in  dry-cleaning  establishments.  ...  23 
Conditions  under   which   fires  and   explosions   take   place; 

Design  and  construction  of  cleaning  plants 24 

vii 


VUl  CONTENTS. 

TyjK'  <1  IiuilcIinR  to  constnut  for  a  dr>'-clcaning  business; 

NlftlKMls  of  liKhtiiiK   the   buildinjj 25 

Wntilating  the  cleaning;  plant;    Extinguishing;  fires 26 

Mctliod  of  storinK  Kasohne;   (irounding  the  machines 27 

Dryroom  design  and  construction 28 

Covers  for  machines  containing  gasoline 29 

Ammonia  as  a  fire-cxtinguisliing  agent;    Static  sparks  the 

cause  of  some  fires 30 

Making  naphtha  free  from  the  fire  and  explosion  haziird.  .  .  31 
Addition  of  benzine  soap  to  the  gasoline  reduces  tlie  fire 

risk 32 

Treatment  of  bums 33 

The  cleaning  process;   Gocxls  suitable  for  treatment  by  dr>' 

cleaning 35 

Goods  less  suitable  for  dr>-  cleaning;   Gocxls  not  suitable; 

Dusting  gannents 36 

Drjnng  garments  Ijeforc  cleaning;    Preparation  of  garments 

for  drv  cleaning 37 

Cause  of  dingy  white  goods  after  dry  cleaning;   Methods  of 

correction 3^* 

Vessels  used  for  hand  clearing;    Method  of  procedure 39 

Draining  dry-cleaned  garments;   Cleaning  silk  garments  by 

hand 41 

Arrangement  for  working  on  a  large  scale;    Advantages  in 

using  heavy  benzine;    .V'achinery  used 42 

Kinds  of  washing  machines  and  their  s])ee;l 43 

Power-driven  washers  a".d  their  ct>nstruction 44 

Cleaning  in  a  power-driven  washer 45 

Hints  on  haivlling  delicate  articles;    Light-colored  articles 

handled  first 4<'> 

Extracting  the  garments  aft?r  cleaning;   Types  of  extnictors  47 

The  Cincinnati  hand  extra  t  r 4** 

The  dryroom;    HrN'ing  tuml)ler 49 

Advantages  of  the  dn,-ing  tuml  Lr 50 

Cleaning    white    wcKilen    ami    silk   gr>ods;     Cleaning    white 

uniforms  and  fancy  costtnnes 5' 

Clearing  colored  silks;    CLaning  small  articles;    Methods 

•of  wet  cleaning  after  dr>-  d^vminp 5- 

Clear.ing  velvet  goods;    Cleaning  silk  velvets 53 

Removing  stains  of  oil,  paint,  tar  and  varnish  from  velvet; 

Steaming  velvet 54 

Brightening  velvet  after  cleaning;    Velvet  steamers 55 

Methods  of  steaming  velvet 5'> 

Dry  cleaning  caqx-ts 57 

Dr>'  cleaning  mcii's  garments 5^ 

Cleaning   hats  and  caps;    Raincoats;     Sweaters  an<l   knit 

g(Kiils;    Women's  vfH)len  suits  and  dresses;    Silk  ilre-^scs.  59 
Cleaning  lace  curtairs;    Satin  sl;|iiH'rs;    Blankets:    L'i)li(.l- 

ptercd    furniture;    Silk   plush;    Colored  charmcusc   silk; 

Portieres 60 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Purification  of  benzine;   Filtering  benzine 6i 

Purification  of  benzine  with  sulphuric  acid 62 

Deodorization  of  benzine 63 

Purification  of  benzine  by  distillation 64 

Advantages  of  a  gasoHne  still 65 

Methods  of  operating  a  gasoline  still ; 66 

Description  of  the  benzine  still 67 

Clarification  of  benzine  by  centrifugal  force;    Principle  on 

which  the  centrifugal  benzine  clarifier  acts 69 

II. 
Removal  of  Stains,  or  Spotting. 

Principles  of  stain  removal;    Classes  of  stains;    Nature  of 

stain  must  be  known 71 

Tools  required  to  do  spotting  work;   Knowledge  required  to 

do  spotting  successfully 72 

Behavior  of  the  wool  fiber  to  various  reagents 73 

Effect   of   caustic   alkalies  on   wool;    Alkalies   destroy   the 

luster  of  silk;    Effect  of  acids  on  black  silk 74 

Behavior  of  cotton,  linen  and  jute  to  various  agencies 75 

]\Iethods  of  using  water  for  removing  various  stains 76 

Characteristics  and  uses  of  acetone  for  spotting  purposes; 

Characteristics  and  uses  of  ether  in  spotting 77 

Chloroform,  its  characteristics  and  uses  in  spotting 78 

Alcohol,  its  characteristics  and  uses  in  spotting 79 

Acetic   ether,   its   characteristics  and  uses;    Ammonia,   its 

characteristics  and  uses 80 

Benzine,  its  uses  for  spotting  purposes;  Carbon  tetra- 
chloride, its  uses  for  spotting 81 

Stain  removal  with  carbon  tetrachloride 82 

Acetic  acid,  its  uses  for  spotting 83 

Fusel  oil  for  spotting  purposes;  Glycerine  as  used  in  the 
spotting   department;     Borax,   its    uses   in   the   cleaning 

plant 84 

Uses   of   hyposulphite   of   sodium    in   the    cleaning    plant; 

Properties  of  stannous  chloride 85 

Characteristics  and  uses  of  chloride  of  lime  in  the  cleaning 

plant 86 

Uses  of  chlorine  water;  Tartaric  acid,  its  characteristics 
and  uses;  Citric  acid,  its  uses;  Properties  and  uses  of  oxalic 

acid 87 

Hydrochloric  acid  should  be  free  from  iron;  Various  spot- 
ting and  washing  agents 88 

Liquid  spotting  soaps;    Ammonia  soap 89 

Removal  of  stains  caused  by  hair  dye,  medicine,  marking 
ink,  indelible  pencil,  etc.,  with  potassium  cyanide;  Spot- 
ting fluids 90 


X  CONTENTS. 

Spotting  fluids  for  leather  and  tissues;  Spr>tting  fluid  for 
all   kinds  of  stxiins  the  derivation  of  which  cannot   l>c 

ascertained 91 

English  spotting  fluid;  Schwemmer's  spotting  fluid;  Spot- 
ting paste;   SiK)tting  pencils 92 

Characteristics  and  uses  of  Tetrapol;  Analysis  of  Tetrapol  93 
Use  of  TetraiK)l  f(jr  removing  oil,  grease  and  blood  stains.  .  94 
Rules  of  cleanliness  to  be  observed  by  the  spotter;    I>ifficul- 

ties  of  the  work 95 

Blanchissine;     Blanchissine    No.    i;     Blanchissine    \o.    2; 

Hexol 96 

Cleaning  dust-coats;    Cleaning  morning  dresses;    Cleaning 

rain-coats;   Stains  on  velvet  and  plush 97 

RemoWng  stains  from  lined  garments;    Spotting  fluids  for 

silk;   Rules  for  spotting 98 

Hydroscopic  substances  used  for  absorbing  spotting  water 
from  garments;  Spotting  rings  and  water  marks  remain- 
ing after  spotting;    Use  of  the  spraWng  bottle 99 

Removal  of  color  and  dye  stains;  Removal  of  dust  stciins.  .  100 
Removal  of  mud  stains;    Removing  stains  of  an  unknown 

nature;    Cleaning  colored  woolen  goods;    Grease  stains.    loi 
Use  of  benzinized  magnesia  for  the  removal  of  grease  stains.    102 
Use    of    gelatinize*!    benzine   for   remoWng   spots,  and   its 
preparation;    Etherized    magnesia,    its    preparation    and 

uses 103 

RemoN-ing  stains  of  a  fatty  nature  and  those  caused  by  milk, 

soup,  beer,  etc.;    Removal  of  old  grease  stains 104 

Removal  of  paint  and  \-amish  stains;   Removal  of  stains  of  • 

resin,  tar  and  wagon  grease 105 

Removal  of  stearin,  wax  and  fruit  stains 106 

Fruit  stains;    Stains  of  red  wine,  cherries,  whortleberries, 

etc.;    Remo\nng  milk  and  cofTee  stains 107 

Stains  on  silk  garments;    Soup  stains  and  smaller  grease 

stains 108 

Stains  of  beer,  wine,  punch,  sugar,  gelatine,  glue,  etc.; 
Grass  stains;  Stains  from  green  nuts  as  well  as  the  so- 
called  tannin  stains 109 

Nitric-acid  stains;    Stains  of  wine-vinegar,  sour  wine,  etc.; 
Lye  and  lime  stains;    Urine  stains;    Perspiration  stains.  ...    no 
Remo\-ing  greasy  shine;    Nitrate  of  silver  stains;    Aniline 

color  stains 1 13 

Ink  stains 113 

Removal  of  blood  stains 1 15 

Metallic  oxide  stains;    Stains  of  artificial  perfumes 116 

Iron  and  rust  stains;    Mold  and  mildew  stains 117 

Old  mold  stains;  Alkali  stains;   Berrv  stains 118 

Candv   stains;    Chocolate  stains;    Developer  stains;    Dye 

stains 119 

Egg  spots;  Fly  specks;  Chewing  gum;  Copper  stains; 
Iodine  stains;    Medicine  stains 120 


CONTENTS.  XI 

Mustard  stains;    Scorch;    Shoe  poHsh  stains;    Tea  stains; 

Walnut  stains;   Wood  finish  stains 12 1 

Table  of  stains  and  methods  of  removal  from  the  different 

fabrics 122 

Some  chemical  knowledge  necessary  to  successfully  remove 

stains;    Hints  for  removing  stains 123 

Uses  of  oxalic,  citric  and  acetic  acids  for  removing  stains; 
Uses  of  ammonia  and  carbonate  of  soda  for  removing 

stains 124 

Mottled  and  soft  potash  soaps;    Bleaching  processes  ap- 
plicable to  spotting 125 

Bleaches  used  on  white  cotton  goods;   White  wool  and  silk; 

Bisulphite  of  soda;    Sodium  Hypochlorite 126 

Perborate  of    soda;    Bleaching  with    potassium   permanga- 
nate     127 

Reducing  effect  of  carbon  dioxide 128 

Reducing  colors  with  hydrogen  peroxide 129- 

Reducing  colors  with   hydrosulphurous  acid ■ 131 

Combined   method   of  removing   stains;     Obstinate   stains; 

Use  of  Hyraldite  in  spotting 133 

Hydrogen  peroxide  as  a  spotting  agent 135 

Coffee  and  chocolate  stains;    Grass,  beer  and  milk  stains.  .    136 
Stains   caused   by   fruit  juices;     Stains   due   to   red   wine; 
Mold  stains  and  yellow  and  brown  stains;    Stains  due  to 

tar  or  axle  grease 137 

Cleaning  white  gloves;   Behavior  of  hydrogen  peroxide  tow- 
ard colored  fabrics 138 

Oxygenol  as  a  spotting  agent 140 

Fruit  and  coffee  stains 141 

Red    wine    stains;     Blood    stains;     Behavior   of    Oxygenol 

toward  colored  fabrics 142 

Sodium  peroxide  as  a  spotting  and  washing  agent 143 

Sodium  peroxide  soap 144 

Removal  of  colored  stains 145 

III. 
Wet  Cleaning." 

Importance   of  ascertaining   the   class   of   fibers  of   which 

the  articles  are  made 147 

Care  required  to  do  wet  cleaning;  Soaps  best  suited  for  wet 

cleaning 148 

Water  to  use  for  wet  cleaning 149 

Purification  and  testing  of  water 150 

Testing   wkter   for   ammonia,    nitric   acid,    lime,    iron   and 

hardness 151 

Softening  hard  water;    Methods  of  purification 152 

Methods  of  wet  cleaning 153 


Xa  CONTtNTS, 

Wet  cleaning  men's  woolen  garments 1 54 

Wet  cleaning  cloaks,  heavy  overc«>ats,  uniforms,  etc 155 

Cleaning  men's  dark  garments;    Use  of  quillaia  bark 157 

Wet  cleaning  c<jats,  vests  and  trousers 159 

Wc'l  cleaning  ladies'  garments 160 

Wet  cleaning  ladies'  colored  garments 161 

Wet  cleaning  cotton  ganncnts 162 

Wet  cleaning  corsets  and  ladies'  wool  and  half-wool  gar- 
ments    165 

Cleaning  black  and  white  checked  goods;   Rinsing  after  wet 

cleanmg 164 

Cleaning  garments  made  of  unweighted  silk 165 

Cleaning    artificial    silk;     Wet    cleaning    dark-colored    silk 

goods. 166 

Protecting  light-colored  silks  from  stripping;    Perspiration 

stains;    Use  of  sour  milk  for  cleaning 167 

Wet  cleaning  raw  silk  garments;    Wet  cleaning  white  wool 

and  white  silk  fabrics 168 

Cleaning  blankets;    Sulphur  bleaching  chamlier;    Method  of 

bleaching  in  tlie  sulphur  l)leaching  'hamlxjr 169 

Bleaching  white  wck)1  in  the  sulphur  bleaching  chamber...  170 

Bleaching  white  wcxil  or  white  silk  with  i)eroxide 171 

Bleaching  white  woolen  garments,  blankets,  etc 172 

Bleaching  with  hydrogen  jR-roxide 173 

Bleaching  with  sodiiun  jxTo.xide 1 74 

Bleaching  jute 1 76 

Electric  bleaching 1 77 

Electric  bleaching    apparatus 1 78 

Wet  cleaning  light-colored  wool  and  silk  articles;    Cleaning 

woolen  undergarments;    Cleaning  white  cloth  caps  and 

felt  hats 180 

Cleaning   white    wfK)l   knit   and    woven   articles:     Cleaning 

white  silk  handkerdiiefs;    Cleaning   wliite  silk  stockings; 

Cleaning  colored  silk  cloths,  silk  gloves  and  cx)lored  silk 

gloves 181 

Cleaning  fine  colored  embroideries;    Preparation  of  Eau  de 

Javelle 182 

Cleaning  ladies'  scarfs  of  variegated  colors 184 

Safeguarding  against  bleeding  when  wet  cleaning 185 

Wasliing  laces  and  embroidered  linens 187 

Washing  fine  laces 1 88 

Cleaning  white  curtains 189 

Cleaning  cream-colored  curtains 190 

Washing  colored  curtains;    Wa.shing  veils 19I 

Washing  black  and  colored  veils,  mourning  veils  and  crapes, 

silk  and  silver  laces ;  .  .  .  .  192 

Washing  gold  laces;   Cleaning  gold  and  silver  galloons 193 

Cleaning  parasols 194 

Cleaning  colored  and  checkered  parasols 195 


CONTENTS.  XIU 

Wet  cleaning  dark-colored  silk  plush;  Cleaning  georgette 
crepe ; 196 

Wet  cleaning  khaki  kool,  rubberized  garments,  cotton  vel- 
vets, corduroys  and  Palm  Beach  garments 197 

Cleaning  white  linen  garments;    Wet  cleaning  carpets 199 

Testing  dye  fastness  of  the  dyes  with  which  carpets  are 
dyed 200 

Dealing  with  carpets  in  which  the  dye  has  run 201 

IV. 
Finishing  Cleaned  Fabrics. 

Importance  of  thorough  finishing  of  cleaned  garments 205 

Equipment  necessary  for  finishing  garments 204 

Finishing  white  and  colored  woolen  shawls 205 

Finishing  white  and  colored  silk  shawls;    Finishing  laces, 

embroideries,  etc 206 

Use  of  gelatine  for  dressing  laces 207 

Finishing  plush  and  black  silk  laces;    Dressing  for  white 

embroideries;    Finishing  curtains 208 

Finishing  plush  draperies;   Finishing  men's  garments 209 

Types  of  steam-boards 21a 

Steam  tables 211 

Pressing  men's  garments  by  hand 212 

Pressing  trousers  and  waistcoats 215 

Pressing  machines  and  their  advantages 214 

Model  "AA"  U.  S.  Hoffman  pressing  machine 215 

Operation  of  the  pressing  machine 216 

Finishing  ladies'  garments 217 

Steam  heated  puff  irons 219 

Dressing  for  garment  dyers  and  laundrymen 220 

Gloss  starch;    Elastic  gloss  starch;    Cream  gloss  starch.  ...  221 

Finishing  chiffons;    Water-proofing  fabrics 222 

Formula  for  a  water-proof  dressing 223 

Fire-proofing  fabrics 224 

Fire-proofing  starch;   Martin's  fire-proof  dressing 225 

Apyrine  starch 226 


V. 
Cleaning  and  Dyeing  Furs,  Skin  Rugs  and  Mats. 

Necessity   for   carefully   examining   skins   before   cleaning; 

Which  skins  to  dry  clean  and  which  to  wet  clean 227 

Method  of  dry  cleaning  furs  and  skins;    Wet  cleaning  furs.    228 
Procedure  before  wet  cleaning;    Care  necessary  when  hand- 
ling alum-tanned  skins 229 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

Cleaning  white  furs 230 

Cleaning  skins  with  heads  attached 231 

Softening  hard  and  dirty  skins;   Cleaning  sheepskins 232 

Methods  for  cleaning  sheepskins 233 

Bleaching  skins 234 

Removing  water  after  wet  cleaning;    Soap  washing 235 

Cleaning  muflfs  and  collars;    Cleaning  linings 236 

Dyeing  white  sheepskins 237 

Acid  dyestufTs  suitable  for  use  on  furs 238 

Methods  of  dyeing  furs;    Dyeing  gray 239 

Mordanting  previous  to  dyeing 240 

Dyeing  black  on  skins 241 

Fur  Black  Standard  and  Fur  Black  Superior;  Dyeing  brown 

on  skins 242 

Dyeing  red  brown,  chestnut,  russet  and  golden  on  furs.  .  .  .  243 
Dyeing  silver  gray,  orange,  bright  green  and  maroon  on 

sldns 244 


VI. 
Cleaning  and  Dyeing  Feathers. 

Cleaning  feathers 245 

Finishing  feathers  after  cleaning 246 

Bleaching  feathers  before  dyeing  pale  tints 247 

Dyeing  feathers 248 

Rules  to  be  observed  when  dyeing  feathers 249 

Methods  of  dyeing  feathers 250 

Dyeing  large  ostrich  feathers 252 

Degreasing  feathers  before  dyeing 253 

Bleaching  feathers ., 254 

Dyeing  ostrich  feathers  black 255 

Dyeing  ostrich  feathers  bronze,  olive,  gold  and  fashionable 

colors 256 

Dyeing  feathers  rose,  salmon,  bamboo  and  pale  blue 257 

Dyeing  feathers  butter  color,  heliotnux",  prune,  gray  and 

caniinal 258 

Dyeing  feathers  garnet,  tobacco,  pale  ydlow  green,  dull 

yelltjw  green  and  olive 259 

Dyeing  feathers  old  rose,  navy,  russet,  gray  blue,  green  blue 

and  maroon 260 

Dyeing  feathers  in  three  colors 261 

Dyeing  feathers  with  a  light  mirror  and  dark  border;   Dark 

mirror  and  light  border 263 

Dyeing  feathers  in  graduating  shades 265 

Dyeing  fancy  feathers 266 

Decolorizing  feathers;   Regreasing  feathers 267 

Bleaching  feathers 268 


CONTENTS.  XV 

Dyeing  various  kinds  of  feathers  black ;  Dyeing  peacock  and 

parrot  feathers 269 

Dyeing  skins  of  kingfishers  and  magpies,  ombre  and  change- 
ant.  . 270 

Drying  feathers  after  dyeing 271 

Curling  feathers 272 

Tool  for  curling  feathers 273 

Methods  of  curling  feathers 274 


VII. 

Cleaning  and  Renovating  Felt,  Straw  and  Panama  Hats; 
Bleaching  and  Dyeing  Straw  and  Straw  Hats. 

Tools  necessary  for  hat  cleaning  and  blocking 275 

Description  of  the  tools  used  in  hat  work 276-280 

Cleaning  felt  hats 281 

Blocking  soft  or  stiff  hats 282 

Setting  soft  or  stiff  hats;   Curling  soft  or  stiff  hats 283 

Pouncing  soft  or   stiff  hats;    Polishing   soft    or    stiff  hats; 

Flanging  soft  or  Panama  hats 284 

Binding  soft  or  stiff  hats 285 

Measuring  sweat  leathers  for  soft,  stiff,  Panama  and  straw 

hats 286 

Formula  for  cleaning  Panama  and  Leghorn  hats 267 

Method  for  cleaning  and  bleaching  Panama  hats 288 

Cleaning  straw  hats 289 

Bleaching    straw    with    hydrogen    peroxide    and    sodium 

peroxide 290 

Dyeing  straw  and  straw  hats;   Use  of  basic,  acid  and  direct 

colors  for  dyeing  hats 291 

Manner  of  dyeing  straw  hats  with  acid  colors;    Manner  in 

which  straw  is  dyed  with  the  direct  colors 292 

VIII. 
Cleaning  and  Dyeing  Gloves. 

Cleaning  gloves  by  hand 293 

Cleaning  and  finishing  gloves 294 

Methods  of  cleaning  gloves;    Removing  perspiration  stains.  295 

Cleaning  white  and  colored  gloves 296 

Cleaning  chamois  gloves • 299 

Cleaning  colored  chamois  gloves 300 

Cleaning  buckskin  gloves,  gauntlets  and  suede  gloves 301 

Cleaning  white  and  colored  silk  gloves;    Dyeing  kid  gloves.  302 

Dyeing  black  on  gloves 303 

Dyeing  brown,  Morocco-red,  and  gray  on  gloves 304 


XVI  CONTENTS. 

Dytnng   glo\'es   with   aniline   colors   and    ready-made  dye 

{)aslt's 305 

Dyeing  gloves  with  oil  dyes.  306 

IX. 

Garment  Dyeing. 

Difficulties  of  garment"  dyeing 307 

Colors  that  may  be  dyed 308 

DyeinR  silks 309 

Cleaning  garments  before  dyeing 310 

Dyestuffs  used  for  dyeing  black,  blue,  green,  orange,  red, 

\-iolet  and  yellow  on  silk 31 1 

Dyeing  black  and  dark  brown  on  silk 312 

Dyeing    tobacco   brown,  gold,   Bordeaux   red,  scarlet  and 

crimson  on  silk 313 

Dyeing  cherr\-,  cream,  rose,  salmon,  blue  and  na\y  on  silk.  314 
Dyeing  heliotrope,  prune,  silver  gray,  and  gray  on  silk.  .  .  .  315 
Dyeing  bright  green,  jx^a  green  and  fancy  colors  on  silk.  .  .   316 

Dyeing  wcki]  and  silk  fabrics 317 

Add  colors  for  use  on  wool  and  silk  fabrics 318 

Protlucing  shot  effects  on  wool  and  silk  fabrics;    Dyeing 

woolen  garments.  .  .• 319 

Application  of  the  acid  dyestuffs 320 

Dyeing  with  the  basic  and  the  mordant  dyestuffs 321 

Prejjaring  woolen  garments  for  dyeing 322 

ReiiK  )val  of  stains  before  dyeing 323 

Dyeing  black  on  wool;   Dyeing  black  on  garments  with  silk 

trimmings 324 

Dyeing  black,  gray  and  scarlet  on  wool 325 

Dydng  crimson,  ileep  re<l,  ponceau,  maroon,  claret,  bright 

red,  yellow  and  green  on  wool 326 

Dyeing  medium  green,  olive  green,  blue,  navy  and  Wolet  on 

wool 327 

Dyeing  mauve,  brown  and  olive  brown  on  wool;    Dyeing 

mixed  cotton  and  wool  goods 328 

Dyeing  dark  blue,  dark  brown  and  scarlet  on  mixed  cotton 

and  Wool  gcKxis 329 

Dyeing  crimson  on  mixed  cotton  and  wool  goods;    Dyeing 

cotton  gcxxls 3J0 

Dyeing  scarlet  and  crimson  on  cotton JJI 

Dyeing  pink,  claR-t,  manx)n,  salmon,  yellow,  orange,  green, 

blue,  violet  and  brown  on  cotton 33* 

Dyeing  light  brown,  dark  brown,  black,  deep  black  and  gray 

on  cotton;    Dveing  cx)tton  and  linen  garments  containing 

jute .' 333 

Methods  of  dyeing  cotton  and  linen  garments  containing 

jute 334 


CONTENTS.  XVll 

X. 

Stripping  Colors  from  Garments  and  Fabrics. 

Necessity  for  stripping 335 

Stripping  all-wool  and  half- wool  goods;  Method  for  strip- 
ping goods  dyed  with  aniline  colors 336 

Stripping  with  bichromate  of  potash  and  sulphuric  acid: 
Stripping  with  hot  nitric  acid;  Stripping  silk  and  half- 
silk 337 

The  hydrosulphite  compounds;   Stripping  low-class  unions.   338 

XI. 

Analysis  of  Textile  Fabrics. 

Reasons  why  the  cleaner  and  dyer  should  be  able  to  analyze 

fabrics 340 

Mechanical  analysis  of  cotton  and  flax 341 

Mechanical  analysis  of  hemp,  jute,  silk,  tussah  silk,  artificial 

silk  and  wool 342 

Mechanical  analysis  of  hair;  Chemical  analysis  of  vege- 
table fibers 343 

Chemical  analysis  of  animal  fibers 344 

Methods  of  determining  wool  and  silk 345 

Method  by  which  the  presence  of  vegetable  fibers  are  de- 
termined     346 

Analysis  of  colored  fabrics 347 

Detecting  silk  in  wool  or  wool  in  silk  in  light-colored  fabrics  348 

Distinguishing  wool  from  vegetable  fibers 349 

Action  of  cotton  under  the  influence  of  acids;  Detecting 
cotton  in  linen;  Action  of  sulphuric  acid  on  jute;  Action 
of  sulphuric  action  on  linen;  Action  of  silk  under  the  in- 
fluence of  caustic  soda  and  acids ;  Action  of  caustic  soda  on 

tussah  silk;    Viscose  silk 350 

How  cotton  is  dissolved  from  a  fabric  containing  wool; 
Determining  a  cloth  containing  silk  and  wool;  Action  of 
iodine  and  sulphuric  acid  on  flax,  hemp  and  jute  fibers; 
Distinguishing    between    mercerized    and    unmercerized 

cotton 351 

Table  of  reactions  of  animal  and  vegetable  fibers 352 

Table  of  reactions  of  various  dyeing  materials 353 

XII. 

Practical  Chemistry  for  the  Cleaner  and  Dyer. 

Why  the  cleaner  and  dver  should  have  some  knowledge  of 
chemistry ; 355 


xvm  CONTENTS. 

Characteristics  and  uses  of  acetate  of  chrome,  acetic  acid 
and  alum  in  the  cleaning  and  dyeing  plant 356 

Ammonia,  ammonium  hydroxide,  benzine,  bisulphite  of 
soda  and  borax 357 

Chloride  of  lime,  carbon  tetrachloride,  caustic  soda,  chloro- 
form and  chrome  alum 358 

Chromium  fluoride,  copper  sulphate,  cream  of  tartar,  ethyl 
alcohol,  ferrous  sulphate  and  formaldehyde 359 

Glycxrine,  hydrochloric  acid  and  hydrogen  peroxide 360 

Hydrosulphite,  magnesium  sulphate,  meta  phenylene  dia- 
mine, meta  toluylene  diamine,  methyl  alcohol,  naphthol 
B  and  oxaHc  acid 361 

Perborate  of  soda,  permanganate  of  potash,  carbolic  acid  and 
potassium  bichromate 362 

Potassium  carbonate,  resorcine,  soda  ash,  sodium  acetate 
and  sodium  bichromate 363 

Sodium  bisulphate,  sodium  chloride,  sodium  hypiochlorite, 
sodium  peroxide  and  sodium  phosphate .  364 

Sodium  siHcate,  sodium  sulphate,  sulphuric  acid,  tannic 
acid ;    Determining  the  weighted  matter  on  silk 365 

Classifying  a  dyestun 366 

Index 369 


PRACTICAL  DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER 
AND  GARMENT  DYER. 


I. 

DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR   FRENCH    CLEANING. 

In  1866,  a  Frenchman,  M.  Judlin,  laid  the  founda- 
tion of  an  entirely  new  industry  by  discovering  the 
detergent  powers  of  benzine;  and  this  process  of 
cleaning,  which  is  variously  known  as  dry,  chemical, 
and  French  dry  cleaning,  has  now  spread  over  the 
entire  civilized  world.  It  appears  that  a  method  of 
dry  cleaning  was  known  as  early  as  1848.  However, 
the  solvent  used  was  not  benzine  but  camphene,  an 
oil  of  turpentine  specially  distilled  for  burning  in  lamps. 

The  success  of  the  method  introduced  by  M.  Judlin 
was  due  to  the  fact  that  it  altered  neither  the  fit  nor 
the  fashion  of  the  garments,  while  wet  washing  with 
soap  not  uncommonly  affects  one  or  both  of  them, 
so  that  other  processes  are  often  required  after  wet 
washing,  which  are  seldom  necessary  with  dry  cleaning. 
The  dry  cleaning  of  garments  is  thus  simple  and 
rapid,  and  what  is  more,  most  of  the  benzine  used 
can  be  recovered  for  use  again. 

(i) 


2        DRY    CLEANER,   SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Chemical  cleaning  does  much  toward  the  better- 
ing of  social  conditions,  and  to-day  the  celebr.ittd 
remark  of  Licbig  that  the  civilization  of  a  naiioii 
could  be  measured  by  the  amount  of  soap  it  con- 
sumes, might  be  supplemented  by  adding  that  those 
countries  in  which  the  chemical  cleaning  establish- 
ments are  not  well  patronized,  are  by  far  less  cul- 
tured than  those  which  have  recognized  the  worth 
and  value  of  this  industry. 

The  full  significance  of  chemical  cleaning  is  steadily 
gaining  ground,  and  it  is  becoming  more  and  more 
a  matter  of  necessity  to  have  such  garments  as  can- 
not well  be  laundered  thoroughly  drj- -cleaned  from 
time  to  time.  However,  the  closeness  of  the  connec- 
tion  between  the  two  cleaning  trades  is  clearly  shown 
by  the  fact  that  in  many  cases  the  same  article  has 
to  be  subjected  to  both  the  processes  which  form  the 
ground  work  of  the  respective  methods.  Hence,  the 
growing  tendency  to  combine  the  two  methods  under 
the  same  roof,  especially  as  a  steiun  laundry  can  add 
dry  cleaning  to  its  business  without  any  considerable 
further  use  of  capital  or  space.  Power  is  already  at 
hand,  ironing  and  drying  rooms  also,  and  it  is  merely  a 
question  of  extending  facilities  already  possessed, 
and  of  employing  persons  skilled  in  dry  cleaning. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  about  the  tendency  of  the 
times,  and  technical  education  should  take  the  form 
of  training  persons  competent  to  do  either  dry  or 
wet  cleaning,  as  may  be  required.  It  is  irrational 
that  if,  as  so  often  happens,  an  article  requires  to  be 
both  dry-cleaned  and  wet-cleaned  that  it  should  have 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.  3 

to  go  to  a  different  establishment  to  undergo  the 
second  process.  From  the  customer's  point  of  view 
it  would  surely  be  an  advantage  to  him  if  he  could 
send  all  his  articles  to  one  and  the  same  firm,  with 
perfect  confidence  that  the  firm  has  every  modern 
cleaning  method  at  its  disposal,  and  can  deal  with 
anything  its  customers  choose  to  send  it  in  the  best 
possible  manner. 

Chemical  cleaning  is  especially  valuable  to  doctors 
and  nurses,  and  all  those  coming  in  contact  with  in- 
fectious diseases,  it  having  been  proved  that  this 
process  not  only  destroys  germs  in  clothing,  but  also 
renders  the  garments  treated  particularly  immune. 

The  phrase  "dry  cleaning,"  or  as  the  French  call 
it,  nettoyage  a  sec,  originated  from  the  fact  that  no 
water  is  used  in  the  process.  However,  in  reality, 
the  garments  are  immersed  and  washed  in  benzine, 
benzol,  or  some  other  solvent.  Thus  the  term  "dry 
cleaning"  is  a  misnomer,  and  the  real  definition  of 
dry  or  chemical  cleaning  is  immersion  in  a  liquid 
which  dissolves  fat.  It  may  be  objected  that  the 
soap  and  soda  used  in  ordinary  washing  dissolve 
fats,  but  in  this  instance  ii  is  not  a  case  of  solution 
ptu"e  and  simple.  What  is  dissolved  is  soap  formed 
by  the  chemical  action  of  alkali  upon  the  fat,  and  not 
the  fat  as  such.  Any  fat  that  is  not  convert'jd  into 
soap  is  emulsified,  and  passes  away  undissolved  into 
the  rinsing  water.  The  definition  of  dry  or  chemical 
cleaning  thus  includes  two  points:  Firstly,  total  im- 
mersion in  a  liquid,  and  not  local  applications  of  a 
liquid  with  a  sponge,  etc.,  the  latter  being  merely  a 


4    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DVKR. 

Stain-removing  process,  and  secondly,  that  the  action 
of  the  liquid  must  be  purely  solvent,  and  must  neither 
emulsify  the  fat  nor  alter  it  chemically.  The  fat 
must  be  recoverable  from  the  solvent  by  simple  dis- 
tillation. 

Although  benzine  and  benzol  are  generally  used 
as  solvents,  they  are  not  the  only  liquids  available. 
Ether,  chloroform,  acetic  ether,  carbon  tetrachloride, 
alcohol,  could  all  be  used  for  chemical  cleaning, 
although  price  and  other  considerations  forbid  their 
emplo>Tnent,  or  restrict  it  within  narrow  limits.  Some 
of  them,  especially  carbon  tetrachloride,  will  no  doubt 
be  much  more  largely  used  in  the  future  than  they 
are  now.  Briefly  stated,  dry  cleaning  is  based  upon 
the  solvent  power  for  grease  of  benzine,  benzol,  and 
other  solvents. 

There  are  two  common  mistakes  \N'ith  regard  to 
the  dry-cleaning  business.  One  is  that  anybody  can 
clean  with  benzine,  no  matter  what  goods,  and  that 
no  experience  is  necessary  so  long  as  the  plant,  i.  c, 
the  washing  machines  and  the  stills  for  regenerating 
the  benzine,  are  procured  from  a  reliable  firm.  The 
other  mistake  is  that  a  complicated  and  expensive 
plant  is  indispensable.  Both  of  these  ideas  are  errone- 
ous. A  dr>'-cleaning  expert  must  have  a  knowledge 
of  fabrics,  and  of  the  dyes  they  may  contain,  and 
the  man  who  wishes  to  succeed  must  keep  pace  with 
the  times.  Many,  probably  most,  of  the  cheap  novel- 
ties seen  in  the  shop  windows  arc  as  awkward  for  the 
dry  cleaner  as  they  can  well  be.  For  instance,  some 
silk  shawls  are  dyed  by  sprinkling.     The  silk  is  always 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.  5 

loaded  and  gets  stiff  after  spotting  with  water,  the 
only  possible  spotting  agent  with  these  cheap  and 
loosely  dyed  goods.  The  dyes  commonly  used  are 
barely  fast  to  cold  water,  and  their  appearance  is 
spoiled  by  benzine,  even  if  they  are  not  stripped. 
The  idea  that  the  heavy  dressing  always  given  to 
such  goods  fixes  the  stenciled  dye  in  any  way  is  quite 
mistaken. 

As  regards  the  plant,  the  sole  object  of  expensive 
installation  is  to  economize  in  working  on  a  large 
scale. 

Most  stains  in  garments  consist  of  dirt  held  by 
grease  of  various  kinds  collected  during  the  wearing 
of  the  clothes.  By  removing  the  grease— the  dirt- 
carrying  vehicle — the  dirt  is  released  and  the  stain 
disappears.  As  compared  with  the  older  method  of 
cleaning,  this  process  possesses  great  advantages,  the 
possibility  of  shrinking  and  felting  of  woolen  stuffs, 
almost  unavoidable  in  the  treatment  with  water,  being 
entirely  excluded.  Furthermore,  the  most  delicate 
colors  are  not  affected  or  in  the  least  injured,  and 
richly-trimmed  ladies'  gowns  can  be  cleansed  without 
the  necessity  of  ripping  off  any  portion  or  removing 
the  trimmings.  The  padding  of  men's  coats  is  not 
shifted,  and  many  household  articles  which  would  be 
rendered  useless  by  the  ordinary  method  of  cleaning, 
may  by  this  process  be  restored  to  the  original  clean- 
ness, and  besides  the  expense  of  ripping  apart  and  re- 
sewing  is  avoided. 

As  previously  mentioned,  the  fluids  chiefly  used  for 
this  cleaning  process  are  as  follows:    Benzine,  gasoline 


6        DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

and  naphtha,  benzol,  turpentine,  and.  in  more  mo<lem 
times,  carbon  tetmchloride  or  tetrachloro-methanc. 

There  has  always  been  more  or  less  confusion  over 
the  correct  nomenclature  of  the  various  fluids  used  for 
dr>'-cleaning  purposes.  A  petroleum  product  for  this 
purpose  should  have  a  boiling  point  low  enough  so 
that  it  readily  can  be  driven  from  the  goods  being 
cleaned  at  ordinary  dr>-room  temperatures,  but  it 
should  not  be  so  low  that  there  is  undue  waste  through 
evaporation,  in  which  case  the  fire,  and  explosion 
hazard  is  increased.  The  different  grades  of  petroleimi 
products  are  as  follows: 

Petroleum  Etiier. — Boils  at  from  40  to  70  degrees  C. 
It  is  extremely  wasteful  to  use  as  well  as  dangerous, 
as  it  evaporates  rapidly  at  ordinary'  work-room  tem- 
peratures. 

Gasoline. — Boiling  point  70  to  So  degrees  C.  Also 
wasteful  and  dangerous  to  use.  Tliis  petroleum  pnKluct 
is  used  chiefly  for  power  purposes  in  internal  combus- 
tion engines. 

Pelf  oleum  X  aphtha. — Boils  at  from  80  to  100  degrees 
C.  Safer  and  less  expensive  to  use  than  the  products 
enumerated  above. 

Grade  B  Petroleum  X aphtha. — Boils  at  from  100  to 
1 10  degrees  C. 

Benzine. — Boils  at  from  120  to  150  degrees  C.  This 
product  is  sometimes  known  as  'cleaning  oil."  This 
is  the  highest  product  obtained  from  petrolevmi  and 
is  the  safest  and  the  cheapest  one  to  use.  Its  boiling 
point  is  such  that  it  may  readily  be  driven  from  the 
garments  at  ordinar>'  dr>'-room  temperatures  and  is 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.  J 

high  enough  to  cause  but  a  minimum  waste  by  evap- 
oration. 

Benzine  is  a  water-white,  Hmpid  Hquid,  with  the 
pecuHar  and  characteristic  odor  of  petroleum.  It  is 
highly  inflammable  and  requires  handling  with  great 
care.  It  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.730  to  0.760.  A 
product  having  almost  identical  properties  with  ben- 
zine is  shale  naphtha,  obtained  by  distilling  Scotch 
shale.  It  has  generally  a  slightly  higher  specific 
gravit^^  higher  boiling  point,  and  is  not  so  volatile  as 
the  petroleum  product. 

As  a  solvent  for  oils  and  greases,  benzine  is  not 
excelled,  but  no  matter  whence  it  may  be  derived, 
for  the  purpose  of  the  garment  cleaner,  a  product 
having  a  specific  gravity  of  between  0.728  to  0.735 
is  the  best,  so  that  it  can  be  readily  expelled  from 
the  garments  at  the  normal  heat  of  a  dry-room.  A 
product  of  less  specific  gravity  is  not  required,  and 
makes  the  process  more  expensive  by  reason  of  the 
greater  loss  due  to  evaporation  during  washing. 

Cleaning  oils  vary  considerably  in  their  character- 
istics, depending  principally  upon  the  crude  oils  from 
which  they  were  derived.  For  this  reason  it  is  well 
to  test  thcdiflerent  grades  being  offered  by  the  oil  com- 
panies to  determine  the  one  best  suited  to  the  purpose. 
In  the  past  it  has  been  the  custom  of  cleaners  to  buy 
their  cleaning  fluid  on  the  basis  of  specific  gravity, 
but  this  practice  is  now  considered  unreliable,  as  it 
is  well  known  that  specific  gravity  may  be  doctored 
to  show  an}^  results  desired  by  the  distillers. 

An  oil  for  dry-cleaning  purposes  should  preferably 


8    DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

show  the  follovs-ing  characteristics:  It  should  contain 
no  oily  deposit  or  foreign  matter,  nor  should  it  con- 
tain substances  that  will  leave  an  odor  after  the  j^oods 
have  been  subjected  to  the  heat  of  a  dr>-room.  It 
should  evaporate  readily  from  the  goods  at  ordinar>' 
dr>'-room  temperatures  and  should  have  a  boiling- 
point  high  enough  so  that  there  nWU  not  be  an  excessive 
waste  through  evaporation  during  the  cleaning  process. 
To  test  different  oils  proceed  as  follows:  Place  two 
or  three  ounces  of  each  grade  to  be  tested  in  a  clean 
white  porcelain  dish,  and  note  the  order  in  which  they 
evaporate.  Should  one  or  more  dishes  contain  an 
oily  deposit  after  evaporation  eliminate  the  particular 
grade  or  grades  from  your  consideration.  The  same 
test  should  also  be  performed  in  a  dry-room  to  deter- 
mine the  action  of  the  oils  under  the  influence  of  heat. 
It  sometimes  will  be  found  that  an  oil  that  evaporates 
but  slowly  in  the  air  acts  in  an  entirely  different  man- 
ner when  subjected  to  heat.  Such  oil  is  generally 
difficult  to  reclaim  by  distillation. 

The  tests  should  be  continued  further  by  dipping 
pieces  of  cloth  in  the  different  cleaning  fluids  and 
watching  the  results  when  the  evaporation  takes  place 
in  the  air  and  in  a  dry-room,  and  the  odors,  if  any, 
remaining  after  the  samples  are  free  from  the  cleaning 
fluid.  If  a  tumbler  is  used  for  drying  purposes  the 
samples  should  again  be  immersed  in  the  fluids  and 
dried  in  it  and  the  effects  noted.  In  all  cases  careful 
notes  should  be  kept  and  the  results  compared.  The 
tests  may  be  modified  to  meet  the  conditions  existing 
in  any  plant. 


DRY,  CHEMICAL,  OR  FRENCH  CLEANING.     9 

Benzine  as  found  in  commerce  is  not  a  definite 
chemical  combination,  but  a  mixture  of  hydrocar- 
bons of  the  parafiine  series  and  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  definite  chemical  compound  benzol 
(CeHe)  of  the  aromatic  series. 

While,  as  previously  mentioned,  benzine  is  not 
excelled  as  a  solvent  for  oils  and  greases,  its  use  is 
of  no  value  for  the  removal  of  ordinary  dust  or  dirt 
such  as  frequently  collects  on  the  bottoms  of  dresses 
and  pantaloons. 

Benzine  soap.  When  rubbed  between  the  hands 
benzine  causes  a  sensation  of  hardness  which  is  due 
to  the  withdrawal  of  fatty  substances  from  the  skin. 
It  has  long  been  recognized  that  if  an  alkali,  chiefly 
in  the  form  of  soap,  or  another  chemical  compound 
in  a  dissolved  state,  could  be  added  to  benzine,  the 
cleaning  power  of  the  latter  would  be  considerably 
increased,  and  its  use  could  be  extended  to  very 
dirty  articles  upon  which,  by  itself,  it  exerts  but 
little  influence.  For  about  twenty-five  years  en- 
deavors have  been  made  to  add  soaps  to  benzine  by 
attempting  to  dissolve  thoroughly  dried  soaps  in 
benzol,  alcohol,  turpentine,  etc.,  and  adding  the  re- 
sulting product  to  benzine.  Under  the  name  of  ben- 
zine soaps  various  products  are  now  found  in  the 
market,  and  are  much  used,  forming  in  fact  an  im- 
portant item  of  the  dry-cleaner's  outfit.  In  1893 
Dr.  M.  Richter  discovered  that  sharply-dried  soaps 
of  the  alkaline  earths,  for  instance,  neutral  magnesia 
soap,  dissolve  in  benzine  and  possess  the  power  of 
preventing  electric  excitation  of  the  benzine  and  the 


lO      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DVKR. 

consequent  spontaneous  firing  caused  thereby.  The 
term  antibenzin pyrin  has  been  applied  by  the  inventor 
to  such  soaps. 

According  to  Dr.  Ricliter.  the  oleates  soluble  in 
benzine  may  be  classified  as  follows: 

1.  Hydrated  acid  oleate  of  the  alkaline  salts,  called 
benzine  soaps. 

2.  Anhydrous  normal  oleates  of  the  salts  of  the 
alkaline  earths,  called  antibemin pyrin. 

A  very  interesting  fact  is  the  power  of  the  acid 
oleates  to  absorb  water.  This  may  be  readily  ob- 
ser\'ed  by  adding,  drop  by  drop,  water  to  a  ten-per- 
cent, solution  of  benzine  soap.  On  shaking,  the  water 
yields  a  clear  solution  with  the  benzine  soap.  Atten- 
tion may  here  be  drawn  to  the  fact  that  the  goods  to 
be  cleaned  always  contain  moisture,  and  as  benzine 
does  not  mix  with  water,  satisfactory  results,  without 
the  use  of  benzine  soap,  can  only  be  obtained  by  jjrevi- 
ously  drying  the  goods  as  much  as  i)ossible.  With  the 
use  of  benzine  soap  such  drying  is,  however,  super- 
fluous. On  coming  in  contact  with  the  goods  the 
benzine  soaji  absorbs  the  particles  of  water  contained 
in  a  finely  divided  state  in  the  goods,  lays  bare  the 
fiber,  and  ilius  allows  the  benzine  to  exert  its  grease- 
(lissolving  power.  Of  course  there  is  a  limit  to  the 
water-absorbing  power  of  benzine  soap. 

The  solubility  of  benzine  soap  is.  however,  only 
conditional.  From  solutions  of  less  than  0.2  jjer 
cent,  the  soap  is  in  a  short  time  precijntated  in  the 
form  of  slime.  Generally  speaking,  it  may  be  laid 
down  as  a  rule  that  the  lower  the  temjjerature  and 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         II 

the  more  water  the  benzine  soap  has  absorbed,  the 
more  readily  precipitation  will  take  place. 

In  addition  it  may  be  mentioned  that  the  extrem.ely 
disagreeable  property  of  benzine  soaps  of  being  readily 
decomposed  by  weak  acids  is  solely  due  to  the  content 
of  water. 

The  well-known  fact  that  in  wet  washing  of,  for 
instance,  carpets  and  curtains  from  smoking-rooms, 
the  soap  frequently  is  suddenly  broken,  applies  also 
to  chemical  washing,  there  being  no  doubt  of  its 
being  caused  by  substances  of  an  acid  character. 
This  difficulty,  which  cannot  be  foreseen,  is  extremely 
annoying  and,  as  it  frequently  occurs,  may  even  be 
called  a  calamity,  because  by  reason  of  the  decom- 
position of  the  benzine  soap,  protection  from  electric 
ignition  becomes  illusive.  The  fact  is  that  hydrated 
benzine  soaps  are  only  anti-electric  so  long  as  they 
remain  in  solution  and  contain  no  more  free  oleic 
acid  than  the  acid  salt  requires. 

Preparation  of  antihenzinpyrin. — Dissolve  22  lbs. 
best  quality  white-grain  soap  (75  per  cent,  fat)  in 
water,  and,  at  about  203°  F.,  add  magnesiimi  chlo- 
ride or  magnesitmi  sulphate  (Epsom  salts)  so  long 
as  separation  takes  place.  The  semi-liquid  magne- 
sium oleate  floating  on  the  surface  is  then  removed 
and  remelted  with  fresh  boiling  water.  The  product 
thus  purified  is  wrapped  in  a  linen  cloth  and  freed 
from  adhering  water  in  an  extractor.  The  product, 
which  still  contains  water,  is  then  slowly  heated  in  a 
copper  boiler  to  266°  F.  by  means  of  indirect  steam. 
When  the  mass  flows  quietly,  the  steam  is  shut  off» 


12      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

and  15  lbs.  of  cxiorless  petroleum  are  stirred  in.  This 
anhydrous  magnesium  oleate  is.  while  still  in  a  liquid 
state,  dissolved  in  20  gallons  of  benzine.  With  the 
exception  of  a  very  slight  sediment,  the  product 
should  dissolve  clear,  and  remain  so;  a  slimy,  white 
precipitate  indicates  that  the  magnesiimi  oleate  used 
still  contained  water,  and  consequently  had  not  been 
long  enough  heated.  Of  this  benzine  solution  one 
quart  is  to  be  used  as  an  addition  to  every  25  gallons 
of  benzine.  Dilution  may  also  be  reduced  to  one- 
half,  hence  to  about  10  to  11  gallons.  In  this  case 
one  pint  suffices  for  25  gallons  of  benzine. 

A  benzine  soap,  known  as  saponine,  is  manufactured 
by  Gronewald  &  Stommel,  Eberfeld,  Germany.  It 
forms  a  solid  mass,  somewhat  softer  than  wax,  and 
has  a  nearly  white  to  yellowish-white  color.  It  is 
an  acid  salt  (alkaline  oleate),  which,  in  addition,  con- 
tains a  small  quantity  of  water  as  hydrate  chemically 
fixed.  Its  reaction  is  slightly  alkaline.  It  does  not 
dissolve  in  distilled  water. 

In  water  saponine  can  only  be  partly  distributed, 
a  milky  fluid  being  formed  which  lathers  strongly 
when  shaken.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  soluble  in 
98  per  cent,  alcohol,  in  amyl  alcohol,  ether,  ben- 
zine, chloroform,  acetic  ether  and  carbon  tetrachloride. 
By  an  addition  of  saponine  the  power  of  benzine  as  a 
solvent  is  greatly  increased,  and  by  the  content  of 
soap  it  also  acquires  the  capacity  of  absorbing  more 
water  than  othersvise  is  the  ca.se  without  losing  thereby 
its  power  of  extracting  fat  and  fatty  substances. 

According     to    the     English     patent    specification 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         13 

saponine  is  made  by  melting  together  equal  or  nearly 
equal  parts  of  oleic  acid  and  soap,  the  heating  being 
continued  until  a  clear  liquid  is  obtained;  it  is  then 
idlowed  to  cool. 

Universal  benzine  soap  is  manufactured  and  brought 
into  commerce  by  J.  Simon  &  Diirkheim,  Offenbach, 
Germany.  It  is  a  liquid,  neutral  soap,  the  fatty 
matters  contained  in  it  being  completely  saponified. 
In  addition  to  soap  it  contains  ingredients  which  by 
reason  of  their  composition  exert  a  powerful  dis- 
solving effect,  and  serve  for  the  removal  of  stains  of 
resins,  asphalt,  tar,  oil-paint,  axle-grease,  street  dirt,  etc. 

Weralin  is  manufactured  by  Oscar  Gans,  Halle, 
Germany.  It  is  a  liquid  of  a  yellow  color  and  has 
a  not  disagreeable  odor  reminding  one  of  mirbane 
oil.  The  fluid,  when  poured  in  a  porcelain  dish,  evap- 
orates in  a  short  time,  a  yellowish  soft  soap-mass 
remaining  behind. 

Liquid  benzine  soap  is  brought  into  commerce  by 
Egmont  Koehler,  Altenburg,  Germany.  It  serves  for 
washing  colored  and  white  glace  gloves.  Benzine 
compounded  with  this  soap  readily  removes  by  one 
application  by  means  of  a  piece  of  felt  all  the  -dirt, 
even  the  hardest  perspiration  stains  becoming  soft 
thereby. 

Very  satisfactory  soaps  freely  soluble  in  benzine 
to  a  clear  solution  can,  according  to  Frank  J.  Farrell, 
be  made  by  dissolving  caustic  soda  or  caustic  potash 
in .  the  smallest  quantity  of  methylated  spirit,  and 
stirring  it  into  the  required  quantity  of  oleic  acid  or 
melted  stearic  acid,   and  heating  the  mixture  on  a 


14      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,   GARMENT   DYER. 

water  bath.  In  place  of  soda  or  potash,  ammonia 
(0.880  specific  gravity)  may  be  employed.  v\'ith  or 
without  the  addition  of  methylated  spirit.  The  fol- 
lowing quantities  give  satisfacton'  results:  Oleic  acid 
5  parts  by  weight,  caustic  potash  i  part  by  weight 
dissolved  in  methylated  spirits  4  parts  by  weight. 

The  quantities  are  arranged  to  produce  a  slightly 
superfatted  soap,  freely  soluble  in  benzine.  By  in- 
creasing the  quantity  of  oleic  acid,  the  solubility  of 
the  soap  in  benzine  is  increased. 

Ernest  Regnal  has  patented  in  Germany  a  benzine- 
soluble  soap  solution  of  fatty  acids,  of  animal  as  well 
as  of  vegetable  origin,  alcohol,  .'immonia  and  water, 
which  contains  about  38  per  cent,  of  water.  For 
five  to  six  garments  about  K  to  i  lb.  of  this  solution 
is  to  be  added  to  the  benzine  to  be  used  for  washing, 
and  about  2  lbs.  for  five  suits,  or  6  to  12  square  yards 
'of  carpets. 

The  fabrics  to  be  cleaned  are  for  a  certain  time 
subjected  in  the  washing  machine  to  the  action  of 
the  benzine  and  the  added  soap  solution,  garments 
for  20  to  25  minutes,  suits  and  carpets  for  35  to  45 
minutes. 

After  this  treatment  the  articles  are  for  a  corre- 
sponding time  washed  in  the  machine  with  pure  ben- 
zine, then  extracted,  and  dried  at  a  good  heat  in  the 
usual  manner.  By  the  use  of  the  above-menti»med 
soap  solution,  it  is  claimed,  stains  of  all  kinds,  such 
as  of  beer,  gravy,  blood,  or  street-dirt  are  completely 
dissolved  by  reason  of  the  presence  of  ammonia  and 
the  large  content  of  water. 


DRY,  CHEMICAL,  OR  FRENCH  CLEANING.    1 5 

A  soap  solution  especially  suitable  for  the  process 
is  obtained  by  heating  21  parts  by  weight  of  25  per 
cent,  ammonia,  9  parts  by  weight  of  alcohol  and  23 
parts  by  weight  of  water,  then  adding  about  47  parts 
by  weight  of  a  fatty  acid,  for  instance,  oleic  acid,  and 
allowing  the  whole  to  boil.  In  this  manner  a  soap 
is  obtained  with  about  5.3  per  cent,  of  anhydrous 
ammonia,  9  per  cent,  of  alcohol,  38  per  cent,  of  water 
and  27  per  cent,  of  fatty  acid.  This  soap  may  also 
be  prepared  in  such  a  way  that,  while  the  content  of 
alcohol  and  fatty  acid  remains  the  same,  that  of  an- 
hydrous ammonia  rises  from  2^  per  cent,  upwards 
and  that  of  water  from  2 1  per  cent,  upwards. 

Below  a  few  formulas  for  the  preparation  of  ben- 
zine soaps  are  given: 

1.  By  means  of  ammonia.  Melt  100  lbs.  crude 
tallow  fatty  acid  at  from  87°  to  122°  F.,  bring  into 
the  liquid  mass  40  lbs.  caustic  lye  (15.6  per  cent, 
caustic  potash)  of  17°  B.,  stir  thoroughly  and  add  to 
the  semi-solid  mass,  at  an  always  constant  tempera- 
ture, 8  to  10  lbs.  of  ammonia  of  0.910  specific  gravity, 
and  40  lbs.  more  of  melted  tallow  fatty  acid. 

The  soap  thus  prepared  can  then  be  mixed  in  suit- 
able proportion  with  benzine  to  form  a  paste. 

2.  Liquid  benzine  soaps,  a.  Add  50  lbs.  ethyl 
acetate  or  acetic  ether  to  3  lbs.  best  quality  of  soap 
which  should  be  free  from  such  additions  as  dextrin, 
potato  flour  or  mineral  substances.  When  solution, 
which  is  effected  in  the  cold  way,  is  complete,  the 
soap  is  finished.  It  is  then  mixed  with  the  suitable 
quantity  of  benzine  and  filled  into  bottles. 


l6      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER     GARMENT   DYER. 

b.  Add  to  15  lbs.  of  90  per  cent,  alcohol  5  lbs.  best 
quality  pure  white  Marseilles  soap  and  eflfcct  solution 
on  a  water  bath.  To  the  resulting  solution  add, 
without  the  assistance  of  heat,  50  lbs.  of  benzine, 
10  lbs.  of  crude  benzol  and  5  lbs.  white  olein.  Allow 
the  mixture  to  settle  and  then  siphon  it  off  into  tin 
bottles. 

Solid  benzine  soap.  Olein  56.6  lbs.,  ammonia  of 
0.91  specific  gra\nty  6.8  lbs.  Bring  the  olein  into 
an  enameled  kettle  provided  with  a  stirrer  and,  whilst 
constantly  stirring,  run  in  the  ammonia  in  a  thin 
stream.  By  reason  of  the  chemical  reaction  which 
takes  place,  the  mass  becomes  at  first  heated  and 
more  liquefied.  Keep  the  stirrer  in  motion  for  about 
^4  hour  till  the  mass  becomes  hard;  when  cold  it  is 
almost  white.  For  the  preparation  of  a  soap  of  prime 
quality,  the  use  of  almost  white  olein  and  25  per  cent, 
ammonia  is  indispensable.  The  mass  must  not  be 
heated  during  or  after  the  operation,  as  othensnse 
the  ammoniimi  oleate  is  again  decomposed,  and  it 
must  dissolve  clear  in  benzine.  If,  however,  a  clear 
solution  should  not  result,  add  gradually  water  in 
a  thin  jet  until  a  sample  dissolves  clear  in  the  solvent. 
Too  much  water,  of  course,  renders  the  benzine  tuYbid, 
and  great  care  has  to  be  observed  during  the  entire 
operation.  Chief  conditions  arc:  Unexceptional  prod- 
ucts as  initial  materials  and  constant  \ngorous  stirring 
at  as  quick  a  pace  as  possible. 

Anhydrous  acid  extract  of  alkali  dissolves  in  boiling 
benzine,  but  on  cooling  congeals  to  a  jelly.  However, 
by   adding   water   ver>'   gradually,    whilst   constantly 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         IJ 

stirring,  a  point  is  reached  when  everything  is,  and 
remains,  dissolved.  If  more  water  then  be  added,  it 
is  no  longer  absorbed  by  the  benzine.  For  the  tech- 
nical preparation  of  such  acid  oleates,  which  after 
hydrating  are  called  saponoleines  and  are  used 
for  benzine  washing,  three  methods  may  be  used. 
I.  Melting  together  molecular  quantities  of  neutral 
alkaline  soaps  with  olein.  2.  Half  saturation  of  oleic 
acid  with  caustic  alkali  or  alkaline  carbonate.  3.  Half 
saturation  of  the  neutral  oil  soaps  with  stronger 
acids. 

Should  the  cleaner  desire  to  purchase  his  benzine 
soap  he  will  find  a  number  of  good  ones  made  in  this 
country  on  the  market,  all  of  which  will  give  the  desired 
results  if  used  according  to  directions.  A  good  soap 
should  contain  no  water  or  filler,  should  dissolve 
readily  in  cold  gasoline  and  should  leave  no  residue. 
Unless  the  soap  dissolves  in  cold  gasoline  it  will  not 
be  completely  rinsed  from  the  goods.  As  a  general 
rule,  from  one  to  two  pounds  of  soap  should  be  added 
to  each  forty  gallons  of  gasoline  in  the  washer. 

I.  Benzol  or  benzine.  This  liquid  is  obtained  from 
the  portion  of  coal  tar  boiling  at  212°  F.  It  is  a 
water-white,  limpid  liquid,  is  strongly  refractive,  and 
has  a  peculiar  aromatic  odor  and  taste.  It  boils  at 
from  176°  to  212°  F.  Its  specific  gravity  is  0.85  to 
0.S8.  It  is  easily  inflammable,  burning  with  a  lu- 
minous, smoky  flame.  It  is  verj^  volatile  and  when 
exposed  to  the  atmosphere  vaporizes  without  leaving 
behind  any  residue.  It  is  a  powerful  solvent  for  all 
oils  and  fats,  and  yields  excellent  results  in  dry  cleaning, 


I8      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOLRER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

but,  though  somewhat  cheaper  now,  is  still  too  ex- 
pensive for  the  purpose. 

Benzine  can  be  distinguished  from  benzol  in  the 
following  manner:  Benzine  is  colored  violet  by  a 
cr>'stal  of  potassiimi  iodide,  while  benzol  is  colored 
carmine.  If  two  cubic  centimeters  of  benzine,  three 
or  four  drops  of  a  clear  ether  solution  of  sandarac 
(i  to  lo)  are  added  a  j^ersistent  cloudiness  is  produced 
in  the  benzine,  while  with  benzol  heated  in  the  same 
manner  the  cloudiness  will  soon  pass  away.  Finally, 
if  the  benzol  is  shaken  vsnth  a  drop  of  alcohol,  it  vnW 
become  clouded,  while  the  benzine  will  remain  clear. 

Benzol  has  not  the  slightest  action  on  the  most 
delicate  tints  and  colors,  and  new  stufifs  frequently 
acquire  a  much  finer  appearance  when  washed  vsnth 
it  previously  to  being  sold. 

2.  Turpatiinc.  This  product  was  formerly  known 
as  oil  or  spirit  of  turpentine,  but  these  terms  have  in 
the  course  of  time  fallen  into  disuse,  and  the  name  of 
turpentine,  originally  applied  to  the  resinous  material 
itself,  is  now  generally  given  to  the  volatile  liquid 
used  by  painters  for  cleaning  purposes,  etc. 

Turpentine  is  obtained  by  distilling  the  oleoresinous 
exudations  of  various  species  of  Pinus.  The  crude 
tuqjentine  is  put  into  a  large  still,  heat  is  applied, 
and  a  little  water  from  time  to  time  added  to  the 
contents  of  the  still.  Distillation  is  continued  so  long 
as  turpentine  passes  over,  when  the  resinous  residue 
is  run  off  through  a  stop-cock  at  the  bottom  of  the 
still,  is  passed  through  several  strainers,  and  then 
constitutes  rosin.     On  condensing  the  distillate,   the 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.  I9 

turpentine  separates  from  the  water  and  is  dipped 
into  barrels,  in  which  it  enters  commerce. 

Turpentine  is  a  water-white,  clear  liquid  of  a  peculiar 
and  very  characteristic  odor.  It  is  lighter  than  water, 
its  specific  gravity  varying  between  0.85  and  0.87. 
It  is  insoluble  in  water,  although  it  imparts  its  odor 
to  it.  It  boils  at  about  302°  F.,  and  is  completely 
distilled  at  a  temperature  of  338°  F.;  old  samples 
may,  however,  leave  a  very  small  residue  behind  them. 

Turpentine  is  readily  combustible;  it  flashes  at  97° 
to  100°  F.,  and  at  a  slightly  higher  temperature  burns 
with  a  luminous  flame  accompanied  with  the  emission 
of  much  smoke. 

Of  the  different  varieties  of  turpentine  the  French 
product  is  the  best.  It  is,  however,  almost  exclusively 
consiimed  in  France  itself,  very  little,  if  any,  being 
exported.  American  and  Russian  turpentines  are  the 
next  best  varieties  for  the  purpose  of  dry  cleaning. 
They  have  very  similar  properties,  Russian  turpentine 
having  rather  more  odor  than  the  American  product. 
Austrian  turpentine  cannot  be  recommended,  it  always 
showing  a  slightly  yellowish  color  even  when  thoroughly 
rectified. 

German  turpentine,  obtained  by  destructive  dis- 
tillation of  various  species  of  Pinus,  should  not  be 
used,  as  it  possesses  a  peculiar  odor  which  cannot 
be  removed  from  garments  treated  with  it.  Besides, 
it  rapidly  turns  yellow  on  exposure  to  air,  and  resinifies. 

Although  turpentine  is  an  excellent  solvent  for 
grease,  oils,  etc.,  it  is  not  a  good  material  to  use  with 
the  dry  process,  it  being  apt  to  leave  behind  a  some- 


20      URV    CLEANER,    SCDLRER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

what  unpleasant  odor.  This  is  more  likely  to  be  the 
case  with  Russian  than  with  American  turpentine, 
and  when  the  garments  are  dried  slowly.  For  this 
reason  it  is  but  seldom  used,  although  frequently 
recommended  for  removing  oil  and  paint  stains  from 
garments. 

There  is  no  good  reason  for  the  generally  prevailing 
idea  that  turpentine,  when  used  for  cleaning  silk 
stuffs,  imparts  to  them  a  soft  feel  and  greater  luster 
and  softness. 

Carbon  tetrachloride  or  tetrachloro-methanc .  CCU,  is 
a  colorless,  mobile,  volatile  fluid,  of  a  peculiar  chloro- 
form-like odor.  It  is  heavier  than  water,  having  a 
specific  gravity  of  1.629;  boiling-point  170.6"  F.  It 
is  now  prepared  on  a  large  scale  by  the  reaction  of 
carbon  bisulphide  with  chloride  of  sulphur,  which  are 
both  bodies  readily  and  cheaply  jirepared  by  the  direct 
union  of  their  elements.  Besides,  the  by-product  of 
the  reaction  is  free  sulphur,  which  can  be  reconverted 
into  carbide  and  chloride,  for  use  again,  as  the  whole 
of  the  sulphur  is  recovered. 

Carbon  tetrachloride  is  coming  more  and  more  into 
use  for  dry  cleaning,  and  in  other  ways  as  a  solvent 
for  fats  and  greases  on  account  of  its  non-inflam- 
mability, which  gives  it  an  enormous  advantage  over 
benzine.  Although  still  more  expensive  than  benzine, 
it  is  cheaper  than  it  used  to  be.  and  thanks  to  improved 
methods  of  manufacture,  there  seems  to  be  a  good 
chance  that  in  the  near  future  it  will  not  greatly  differ 
in  price  from  benzine,  which  in  time  will  probably 
become  more  expensive.     There  is  no  limit  to   the 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         21 

artificial  production  of  tetrachloride,  but  benzine  can- 
not as  yet  be  obtained  except  from  petroleum,  and 
it  is  impossible  that  this  natural  product  will  be 
obtained  on  the  present  enormous  scale  for  a  much 
longer  time.  It  must  not  be  forgotten,  moreover, 
that  the  user  of  carbon  tetrachloride  has  a  great  ad- 
vantage over  the  user  of  benzine  in  respect  to  fire 
insurance.  Carbon  tetrachloride  is  neither  combus- 
tible nor  explosive,  and  poured  upon  a  fire  puts  it 
out  exactly  as  so  much  water  would  do.  It  is'slightly 
poisonous,  but  its  firnies  are  no  more  deleterious  than 
those  of  benzine. 

Even  the  best  samples  of  benzine  are  apt  to  leave 
some  smell  behind  them  in  goods  which  have  left  the 
cleaner.  Whatever  may  be  thought  of  the  smell  of 
carbon  tetrachloride  during  use  it  is  only  in  the  rarest 
cases,  when  it  has  been  used  on  heavy  woolens  for 
the  most  part,  that  it  leaves  any  trace  of  odor  percep- 
tible to  the  dry-cleaner's  customers.  Moreover,  the 
efEect  upon  dyes  has  to  be  considered.  Dry  cleaning 
with  benzine  is  less  likely  to  affect  sensitive  dyes, 
especially  in  light  shades,  than  wet  washing.  It  is, 
however,  true  that  carbon  tetrachloride  affects  such 
dyes  as  a  class  less  than  any  kind  of  benzine,  and  is 
therefore  especially  adapted  for  cleaning  garments 
dyed  in  delicate  tints,  and  particularly  when  the 
fabric  is  an  expensive  one,  such  as  silk.  These  are 
evidently  cases  when  the  excess  of  cost  to  the  cleaner 
involved  in  the  use  of  carbon  tetrachloride  is  of  com- 
paratively small  importance. 

Another  advantage  of  carbon  tetrachloride  is  that 


22      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

it  can  be  used  in  combination  with  the  cheaper  ben- 
zine. The  cleansing  power  of  the  mixture  is  at  least 
equal  to  that  of  pure  benzine,  and  the  addition  of  the 
carbon  tetrachloride  checks  to  some  extent  any  ten- 
dency to  firing  of  the  benzine  by  electricity  or  otherwise. 

In  stain-rcmo\'ing,  carbon  tetrachloride  is  quite  as 
effectual  as  benzine,  and  has  much  less  tendency  to 
spread  out  and  make  perceptible  outlines  at  the 
place  where  it  is  applied.  For  this  purpose  it  can 
also  be  mixed  with  l^enzine.  In  glove-cleaning  car- 
bon tetrachloride  leaves  the  leather  softer  and  less 
liable  to  crack  on  stretching  than  is  the  case  when 
benzine  is  used. 

One  other  important  point  still  remains  to  be  men- 
tioned. There  is  much  loss  by  evaporation  when 
benzine  is  employed,  both  during  the  use  and  during 
the  storage  of  the  liquid.  In  use  this  loss  is  largely 
unavoidable,  but  is  less  in  the  case  of  carbon  tetra- 
chloride than  \\'ith  benzine,  as  the  former  has  a  higher 
boiling-point  than  the  latter.  In  storage  the  loss  which 
is  so  difficult  to  prevent  in  the  case  of  benzine,  especially 
when  the  stock  is  frequently  drawn  upon,  can  be 
completely  avoided  in  the  case  of  the  tetrachloride 
by  covering  it  vsnth  a  deep  layer  of  water.  Carbon 
tetrachloride  is  more  than  half  as  hea\'y  again  as 
water  and  vdW  not  mix  \\'ith  it.  Hence  the  water 
s\\'ims  on  the  top  and  effectually  prevents  all  evapora- 
tion of  the  carbon  compound,  which  can  be  drawn 
off  at  \v\\\  from  under  the  water.  It  is  well  known  that 
benzine  is  to  some  extent  m  xable  with  water,  and  also 
that    wet   benzine   is   quite   useless   for   dry-cleaning 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         23 

purposes.  The  water  over  the  carbon  tetrachloride 
should  be  kept  at  a  good  depth,  say  three  or  four 
inches,  so  that  there  may  be  not  only  an  effectual 
barrier  to  the  escape  of  carbon  tetrachloride  vapor, 
which  has  a  very  perceptible  tension  in  hot  weather, 
but  a  superincumbent  weight  will  accelerate  the  flow 
of  the  carbon  compound  from  the  reser^'oir.  Carbon 
tetrachloride  exerts  an  injurious  action  on  copper,  and, 
therefore,  it  cannot  be  used  in  containers  and  equip- 
ment where  it  will  come  in  contact  with  this  metal 
or  brass. 

PRECAUTIONS    IN   DRY-CLEANING   ESTABLISHMENTS, 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  in  working 
with  benzine  or  benzol,  and  even  with  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, the  greatest  care  has  to  be  obser\"ed.  Naked 
lights  or  a  stove  should  not  be  allowed  in  the  work- 
room. Where  incandescent  electric  light  is  avail- 
able, the  btuTier  should  be  in  a  double  air-tight  glass 
cover.  Failing  electric  light,  the  room  should  be  lit 
from  outside  through  an  air-tight  window. 

Benzine  and  benzol  are  not  only  highly  inflam- 
mable in  a  liquid  state,  but  have  such  low  boiling- 
points  that  they  give  off  large  volumes  of  vapor  at 
ordinary  temperatures.  This  vapor  is  of  course  com- 
bustible like  the  liquids,  but  unlike  the  latter,  it  can, 
by  mixing  with  air,  form  a  dangerous  and  powerful 
explosive.  Two  conditions  must  exist  before  com- 
bustion or  explosion  can  take  place.  One  is  that  the 
liquid  or  the  vapor  must  be  in  contact  with  oxygen. 


24   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

t.  c.  in  practice  with  the  air.  and  the  other  is  that 
there  must  be  a  sufficiently  high  temperature  where 
the  two  meet  to  cause  chemical  action  between  them. 
If  either  of  these  conditions  is  absent  there  is  no 
possibility  of  ignition  or  explosion.  Now  experience 
has  sho\\Ti  that  the  temperature  which  meets  the 
second  of  the  two  essential  conditions  may  be  com- 
paratively low,  and  may  be  reached  in  various  ways 
with  the  intervention  of  a  flame  or  an  electric  spark. 

In  an  ordinary  dwelling-house  the  use  of  benzine 
or  gasoline  is  fraught  with  great  danger.  Both  vaporize 
at  ordinary  temperatures,  and  the  vapor  is  not  ab- 
sorbed in  the  atmosphere,  but  falls  to  the  floor  level 
where  it  flows  in  a  stream  in  the  direction  of  any  air 
current  by  which  it  may  be  affected.  If  this  stream 
should  happen  to  come  in  contact  with  a  flame  in 
another  room,  it  would  carr>'  the  fire  back  to  the  bulk 
of  the  benzine  or  gasoline  and  cause  an  explosion. 

Benzine-cleaning  establishments  should  be  designed 
and  constructed  with  great  care,  so  that  there  is  no 
possible  chance  for  vapors  to  collect  and  ignite  from 
stray  sparks,  that  there  is  no  leakage,  and  finally 
that  the  room  where  the  work  is  done  on  the  material 
to  be  cleaned  is  so  completely  ventilated  that  the 
workmen  can  be  present  at  all  times  without  any 
danger  to  themselves. 

In  the  larger  cities  there  are  stringent  laws  govern- 
ing the  design  and  construction  of  buildings  that  are 
to  be  used  in  which  to  do  dry  cleaning,  and  the  cleaner 
is  not  allowed  a  great  deal  of  latitude  insofar  as  the 
type  of  construction  of  his  plant  is  concerned.     He 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         25 

must  follow  certain  plans  and  specifications  looking 
to  the  safety  of  his  plant  and  the  property  of  his 
neighbors.  Therefore,  as  the  first  step,  the  man  who 
is  contemplating  the  erection  of  a  building  in  which 
to  do  dry  cleaning  should  carefully,  look  up  the  laws 
of  his  city  and  state  governing  the  subject. 

In  most  instances  only  a  one-story,  fireproof  build- 
ing is  allowed.  The  floor  and  roof  should  be  of  con- 
crete, and  the  windows  glazed  with  wire  glass  set  in 
metal  sashes.  The  size  of  the  building  should  be 
governed  by  the  particular  requirements  existing  in 
any  instance,  but  in  any  event  the  room  should  not 
be  larger  than  necessary,  for  the  larger  it  is  the  more 
difficult  it  will  be  to  keep  it  well  ventilated  and  to 
change  the  air  at  frequent  intervals.  The  side  walls 
and  the  roof  should  be  of  heavy  construction  so  that 
they  will  not  collapse  in  the  event  of  an  explosion. 

The  building  in  which  the  cleaning  work  is  to  be 
done  should  be  separated  from  the  other  buildings 
of  the  plant  by  at  least  six  feet — farther  if  ground 
space  permits.  No  basement  should  be  allowed  under 
the  building.  Gasoline  is  heavier  than  air  and  tends 
to  collect  in  low  spots  where  it  may  remain  for  some 
time  and  eventually  cause  an  explosion.  Windows  and 
doors  should  be  provided  with  some  arrangement  that 
will  close  them  automatically  in  the  event  of  an  ex- 
plosion. Steel  shutters  that  may  be  operated  from 
the  outside  are  an  additional  protection  in  the  event 
of  fire. 

The  artificial  lighting  should  be  by  incandescent, 
vapor-proof  lamps,  in  keyless  sockets  suspended  high 


26      DRY    CI.I-ANFR,    SCOURI  R,    (.ARMHNT    DVHR. 

enoviKh  above  the  floor  to  eliminate  danger  of  break- 
age through  accident.  All  electric  wiring  should  be 
installed  in  metal  conduit,  and  all  switches  placed 
outside  of  the  room  in  metal  switch-boxes.  If  a  motor 
is  used  for  jjower  it  must  also  be  placed  outside  of 
the  room  and  connected  to  the  power  shaft  by  ex- 
tending the  latter  through  the  wall. 

The  subject  of  ventilation  is  of  the  utmost  im- 
l)ortance.  Unless  the  cleaning-room  can  be  kept  free 
of  gasoline  vapor  at  all  times  a  serious  exjjlosion  is 
very  sure  to  occur  at  one  time  or  another.  When 
possible  all  doors  and  windows  should  be  kei)t  oj^en, 
and  an  exhaust  fan  with  a  capacity  sufficient  to  change 
the  air  in  the  room  every  four  or  five  minutes  should 
be  installed  at  some  point  in  tlie  room  near  the  floor 
line. 

Next  to  proper  ventilation,  the  most  important 
feature  of  a  cleaning-room  is  the  fire  extinguishing 
system.  In  all  of  the  modern  plants  steam  is  used 
for  this  purpose.  A  steam-pijx'  of  sufficient  size  to 
flood  the  room  with  live  steam  in  a  short  inter\'al  of 
time  should  be  run  into  the  cleaning  department. 
This  pipe  should  be  divided  into  several  branches, 
with  outlets  opening  toward  the  ceiling,  so  that  the 
steam  blanket  will  be  evenly  distributed.  The  com- 
bined cross-sectional  area  of  the  branches  should  not 
be  greater  than  the  cross-sectional  area  of  the  main 
pipe.  The  steam  should  be  controlled  by  a  quick- 
opening  valve  placed  outside  of  the  building.  In  the 
event  of  a  fire  the  door  and  windows  are  closed  and 
the  steam  turned  on.     The  oxygen  is  thus  exhausted 


DRY,  CHEMICAL,  OR  FRENCH  CLEANING.    27 

and  the  fire  extinguished.  A  boiler  of  sufficient  ca- 
pacity to  take  care  of  the  ordinary  needs  of  the  estab- 
Hshment  and  such  an  overload  as  would  be  necessary 
in  the  event  of  a  fire  should  be  installed.  A  steam 
pressure  of  at  least  eighty  pounds  should  be  main- 
tained during  those  times  the  dry-cleaning  department 
is  operating. 

The  gasoline  should  be  stored  in  underground  tanks 
which  are  connected  through  a  pimip  and  a  system 
of  piping  to  the  various  machines.  A  series  of  valves 
permit  the  gasoline  from  any  tank  to  be  pimiped 
to  any  machine  or  from  any  machine  to  any  tank. 
Such  a  storage  system  soon  pays  for  itself  in  the  gaso- 
line saved.  In  addition  it  provides  an  absolutely^ 
safe  method  of  storage  and  distribution  of  the  cleaning 
fluid.  Such  a  system  is  shown  in  the  accompanying 
illustration.  A  storage  system  such  as  this  may  be 
had  from  one  of  several  manufacturers  who  specialize 
in  the  manufacture  of  gasoline  storage  and  handlmg 
systems.  Litharge,  or  Htharge  and  glycerine,  should 
be  used  for  making  up  all  joints  in  the  gasoline  piping 
system.  If  gaskets  are  necessary  paper  and  not  rubber 
should  be  used. 

All  machinery,  shafting  and  hangers  should  be 
grounded  to  carry  off  any  static  electricity  that  may 
be  generated.  The  usual  method  of  grounding  ma- 
chinery consists  in  attaching  one  end  of  a  wire  to  the 
machine  to  be  grounded  and  the  other  end  to  a  ground, 
such  as  a  water-pipe  or  the  piping  of  the  underground 
gasoline  storage  system. 

What  has  been  said  regarding  the  construction  and 


28      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

arrangement  of  the  dry  cleaning  room  applies  with 
equal  force  to  the  dry  room.  When  ix)ssiblc,  this  room 
should  be  separated  from  the  remainder  of  the  plant, 
and  it  should  be  of  fireproof  construction  throughout. 
The  heating  should  be  done  by  steam  from  pipes  ar- 


Fig.  I. — An  Underground  Gasoline  Storage  System 


ranged  at  or  near  the  ceiling.  Adequate  pro\nsions 
should  be  made  for  carrying  away  the  gasoline  fumes 
as  fast  as  they  are  liberated  from  the  garments 
being  dried.  Artificial  lighting  should  be  by  incan- 
descent electric  globes  of  the  same  type  and  installed 
in   the    same  manner  as  described  above.     A  steam 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         29 

line  to  extinguish  any  fire  that  may  start  is  a 
necessity. 

All  vessels  (extractors,  washing  and  rinsing  ma- 
chines, etc.)  containing  inflammable  liquids  should 
have  adequate  covers,  and  should  as  far  as  practi- 
cable be  kept  closed  during  use.  The  covers,  more- 
over, should  be  balanced,  so  that  if  forced  open  by 
explosion  they  will  fall  back  by  their  own  weight  and 
cut  off  the  air  supply  from  the  burning  liquid;  or  in 
case  of  rinsing  vessels  which  cannot  be  kept  closed 
during  use,  an  iron  cover  should  be  suspended  from 
above  by  a  chain  passing  to  a  catch  at  some  distance 
from  the  vessel,  when  in  emergency  it  can  be  imme- 
diately set  free,  so  that  the  cover  will  fall.  In  most 
large  establishments  the  use  of  rinsing  vessels  has 
been  entirely  abandoned,  and  rinsing  is  effected  in 
closed  washing  machines  with  clean  benzine.  A 
loud  crackling  noise  heard  while  rinsing  in  benzine 
may  be  considered  as  a  forerunner  of  static  ignition. 
In  this  case  allow  the  goods  to  rest  quietly  for  some 
time  in  the  vessel,  and,  if  possible,  introduce  moist 
air  into  the  room.  Such  spontaneous  ignition  occurs 
more  frequently  with  white,  than  with  dark  colored, 
goods.  Attention  is  also  directed  to  special  safety 
appliances  which  are  now  available  for  the  storage  of 
inflammable  liquids. 

By  the  means  above  described  the  risk  of  fire  and 
explosion  can  be  greatly  lessened,  but  it  is  still  neces- 
sary to  make  provision  for  minimizing  these  effects. 
There  should  be  an  ample  water  supply,  with  hy- 
drants and  hose,  in  order  to  prevent  the  extension  of 


30      DRY    Cl.FANER,    SCOIRFR,    GARMFNT    DYER. 

flames,  but  water  should  not  be  used  in  attempts  to 
extin^juish  burning'  benzine.  For  the  latter  purpose 
blankets  and  a  supply  of  sand  should  be  kept  in 
readiness.  Steam  jets,  as  explained  above,  are  a  ne- 
cessity in  the  event  of  fire,  as  well  as  for  the  purposes 
of  humidification  when  the  air  is  dry. 

Ammonia  is  also  an  excellent  fire-extinguishing 
agent.  When  thrown  in  a  hearth  it  acts  immediately; 
instead  of  flames,  volumes  of  black  smoke  rise  up, 
and  every  trace  of  fire  disappears.  As  a  fire  may  cut 
off  the  ordinary  exit,  more  than  one  opening  to  the 
outside  should  be  jirovided.  All  persons  employed 
should  have  clear  instructions  what  to  do  in  case  of 
fire,  and  wear  woolen  or  other  non-inflammable  outer 
garments. 

Ignition  by  static  electric  sparks,  which  is  now  recog- 
nized as  the  cause  of  most  instances  of  so-called 
spontaneous  firing  of  benzine,  is  due  to  the  fact  that 
textile  fabrics — especially  undyed  wool  and  silk — and 
many  other  materials  become  electrified  when  rubbed 
or  moved  quickly  in  benzine,  and  sparks  may  result, 
causing  explosion. 

Dr.  W.  Richter  attributes  spontaneous  firing  to 
the  formation  of  sparks  by  the  alteration  of  the  positive 
electricity  of  the  wool  with  the  negative  electricity  of 
the  benzine.  Wlicthcr  the  formation  of  sparks  is 
promoted  by  metals  has  not  yet  been  dctemiined. 
Spontaneous  firing  may  also  dej^end  on  a  mixture  of 
benzine  and  air  in  certain  proportions.  ExjK'riments 
have  .shown  that  the  risk  of  sjiarking  is  greatly  increased 
in  frosty  weather  and  when  the  air  is  especially  dry. 


DRY,    CHEMICAL;    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         3 1 

In  Paris  no  dry-cleaning  establishments  are  allowed 
\^dthin  the  city  hmits.  This,  of  coiirse,  is  a  protection 
from  fire  as  far  as  houses  in  the  city  are  concerned, 
but  not  the  establishment  itself.  To  decrease  danger 
from  fire,  F.  Fischer  has  recommended  to  artificially 
increase  the  content  of  moisture  in  the  air  by  steaming 
or  otherwise.  This  can  be  readily  done  if  steam  jets 
are  available.  While  Dr.  Richter  considers  this  an 
excellent  plan,  it  is  unfortunately  not  very  suitable 
for  dry-cleaning  establishments,  as  the  moisture  might 
impair  the  effect  of  chemical  cleaning.  It  has  also 
been  recommended  to  increase  the  viscosity  of  benzine 
by  the  addition  of  fat,  to  diminish  friction.  But 
neither  this  nor  the  addition  of  alcohol,  ether,  or 
chloroform,  has  proved  of  any  effectual  use. 

As  a  result  of  a  series  of  tests  on  the  well-known  use 
of  carbon-tetrachloride  in  diminishing  the  risk  of  fire 
in  dry  cleaning,  ]\Ir.  G.  A.  Barrier,  a  member  of  the 
American  Chemical  Society,  has  come  to  the  following 
conclusions : 

1 .  A  certain  percentage  of  naphtha  can  be  added  to 
carbon  tetrachloride  and  still  leave  the  mixture  free 
from  fire  and  explosion  hazard. 

2.  The  percentage  which  can  safely  be  added  varies 
with  the  specific  gravity  of  the  naphtha. 

3.  A  5  5 -degree  naphtha  at  ordinary  room  tempera- 
tiores  is  practically  free  from  explosion  hazards,  but 
in  order  to  be  reasonably  safe  from  fire  hazard  it 
should  contain  at  least  30  per  cent,  of  carbon  tetra- 
chloride. 

4.  A  63 -degree  naphtha  at  ordinary  room  tempera- 


32       DRV    CLKA.NER,    SCOLRER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

tures  has  a  slight  explosion  hazard,  but  in  order  to 
be  reasonably  safe  from  fire  hazard  it  should  contain 
at  least  45  i:>er  cent,  of  carbon  tetrachloride. 

5.  A  70-degree  naphtha,  in  order  to  be  safe  from  ex- 
plosion hazard,  should  contain  at  least  50  per  cent, 
of  carbon  tetrachloride,  and  tf)  be  reasonably  safe 
from  fire  hazard  should  contain  at  least  60  j^er  cent. 

6.  A  76-degree  naphtha,  to  be  safe  from  explosion 
hazard,  should  contain  at  least  60  per  cent,  of  carbon 
tetrachloride,  and  to  be  reasonably  safe  from  fire 
hazard  should  contain  70  per  cent. 

These  statements  apply  only  to  naphthas  which  show 
approximately  the  same  results  on  distillation — espe- 
cialh'  with  respect  to  the  lower  boiling  fractions — as 
those  tested.  The  expression  "reasonably  safe  from 
fire  hazard"  is  used  advisedly,  since  the  ab^ve  mix- 
tures, while  possessing  little  fire  hazard  in  open  con- 
tainers, will  bum  if  spread  out  over  a  considerable 
area  on  any  really  combustible  material,  such  as  cot- 
ton waste.  The  percentages  of  naphthas  are  minima, 
and  good  practice  would  require  an  additional  5  per 
cent,  of  carbon  tetrachloride  for  safety. 

As  prex-iously  mentioned,  benzine  may  be  ren- 
dered less  liable  to  ignition  by  electric  sparks  by  the 
addition  of  soap.  According  to  Dr.  Gartenmeister, 
an  addition  of  0.0 1  per  cent,  of  magnesia  soap  pre- 
vents electric  excitation  in  the  goods  so  long  as  the 
magnesia  soap  is  not  sep)arated  by  water  or  decom- 
posed by  stronger  acids. 

An  addition  of  0.01  per  cent,  of  benzine  soap — 
hydrated    acid    alkali    oleate — also    prevents    electric 


DRY,  CHEMICAL,  OR  FRENCH  CLEANING.    33 

excitation  so  long  as  the  soap  is  not  precipitated  as 
anhydrous  soap  by  the  withdrawal  of  water,  or  de- 
composed by  a  stronger  acid. 

The  emplo^Tnent  of  magnesia  soap  in  addition  to 
benzine  soap  is  useless. 

For  the  prevention  of  electric  excitation  the  re- 
quired small  quantity — o.oi  per  cent,  of  benzine  soap 
or  magnesia  soap — should  be  added  to  the  pure  ben- 
zine in  which  the  washed  goods  are  rinsed. 

However,  in  most  cases  the  necessary  quantity  of 
benzine  soap  remains  in  the  tissue  from  washing. 

In  dry-cleaning  establishments  there  is  always  some 
chance  of  the  inhalation  of  benzine  vapor  which  is  a 
powerful  nerve-poison.  Even  in  minute  doses  it  causes 
headache.  The  best  method  of  prevention  is  thorough 
ventilation.  A  person  suft'ering  from  the  action  of 
benzine  vapor  should  be  brought  into  the  open  air 
and  cold  water  should  be  poured  over  his  scalp.  At 
the  same  time  efforts  should  be  made  to  induce 
vomiting. 

At  one  time  it  was  claimed  that  the  vapors  of 
carbon  tetrachloride  were  poisonous,  but  many  tests 
made  upon  animals  and  birds,  besides  the  records  of 
cases  where  human  beings  were  overcome  with  the 
vapors,  led  to  the  belief  that  it  has  no  greater  inju- 
rious qualities  than  benzine. 

Treatment  of  burns.  In  few  difficulties  is  early 
attention  more  imperative  than  in  bums,  hence  the 
importance  of  useful  knowledge  on  this  subject  that 
something  effective  may  be  done  while  waiting  for 
the  physician. 


34   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  CARMEN  I  U^  HK. 

Large  superficial  bums  are  more  dangerous  than 
small  deep  ones  unless  the  latter  are  over  a  vital 
organ.  As  a  rule,  the  amount  of  skin  destruction 
measures  the  danger.  Promptness  of  treatment  has 
much  influence  on  the  outcome.  Bums  upon  the 
abdomen  give  the  highest  mortality. 

The  white  of  egg  beaten  up  with  sweet  oil  and 
bicarbonate  of  soda  makes  a  ver\'  soothing  applica- 
tion, protecting  the  surface  from  the  air.  If  sweet 
oil  is  not  at  hand  linseed  oil  or  any  other  vegetable 
oil  will  do. 

It  is  well  to  have  ready  for  application  to  bums 
of  not  ver>'  large  extent  an  ointment  compound  as 
follows:  Ichthyol  ointment,  i  vz.;  carbolized  petro- 
latiun,  I  oz.;  zinc  ointment,  i  oz.;  subnitrate  of  bis- 
muth, I  drachm;  powdered  opiiun,  i  drachm.  This 
ointment  may  be  applied  freely  and  vAW  be  found  to 
give  almost  immediate  relief. 

If  a  burned  hand  or  foot  is  plunged  at  once  into 
a  basin  of  water  into  which  a  few  spoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered saltpeter  are  placed,  the  pain  often  ceases  at 
once.  If  it  returns,  adding  fresh  cold  water  and  more 
saltjjeter  will  again  stop  it.  Follow  this  \nth  one  of 
the  preparations  mentioned,  and  you  will  do  a  great 
deal  for  the  comfort  of  the  patient. 

If  the  patient  is  much  shocked  by  the  bum  give  a 
teaspoonful  of  aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia  in  some 
cool  water,  or  a  tablespoonful  or  two  of  brandy,  and 
apply,  to  points  not  burned,  hot-water  bags.  Do  this 
esjKxially  when  there  is  chilliness,  and  send  for  a 
physician  at  once. 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         35 


THE    CLEANING   PROCESS. 

The  process  of  dry  cleaning  falls  under  two  heads 
— washing  proper  and  stain  removing  or  "spotting." 
In  the  washing  the  goods  are  sorted  as  regards  de- 
gree of  dirtiness,  color  and  material.  DeHcate  articles 
are  treated  apart.  The  stain  removing  follows  the 
cleaning  with  benzine.  It  is  by  far  the  most  difficult 
part  of  the  whole  treatment  of  the  goods,  because 
such  stains  as  resist  the  benzine,  as  a  rule,  require 
water  for  their  removal,  so  that  all  the  dangers  attend 
the  use  of  water  which  dry  cleaning  is  expressly  de- 
signed to  avoid.  The  only  thing  to  be  done  is  to  use 
distilled  water  and  to  proceed  with  the  utmost  cau- » 
tion.  Stains  which  resist  both  benzine  and  water 
must  be  treated  individually.  The  subject  of  removing 
stains,  or  "spotting,"  as  it  is  called,  will  be  referred 
to  later  on. 

Dry  cleaning  is  not  adapted  for  every  kind  of  tissue, 
and  the  first  proceeding  should  be  to  sort  the  goods 
to  be  cleaned. 

Suitable  for  the  dry  process  are: 

a.  White  silk  fabrics  and  ribbons,  and  such  as 
contain  other  colors,  but  in  which  wh  te  is  neverthe- 
less the  prevailing  color. 

b.  Woolen  and  half -woolen  fabrics. 

c.  Silk-velvet  and  other  colored  silk  stuffs. 

d.  Light-colored  woolen  arid  half-woolen  fabrics. 

e.  Dark-colored  articles. 

It  is  especially  advisable  to  keep  velvet,  plush,  and 


36      DRV    CLJ:ANKR,    SCOLRtR.    GARMKNT    DYER. 

other  goods  with  a  pile  surface  separate  from  other 
kinds  of  material. 

Less  suitable  for  dry  cleaning  are  half -silk  fabrics, 
as  well  as  cotton  and  linen  stuflFs. 

Xot  statable  for  dr>'  cleaning  are  especially  white 
linen  and  cotton  pantaloons,  vests,  sun  and  rain"  um- 
brellas, satin  shoes,  etc.  These  articles,  which,  for 
reasons  readily  understood,  cannot  be  brought  into 
the  wash  machine,  require  cleaning  by  hand  with  the 
tampion  and  brush. 

Colored  articles  which  bleed  when  treated  with  the 
tampion  must,  of  course,  be  separated  to  prevent  other 
stuffs,  especially  white  or  those  \\'ith  a  white  ground, 
from  becoming  smeared.  This  generally  happens  with 
stuffs  dyed  with  tar  colors,  which  have  not  been 
sufficiently  steamed. 

There  are  a  number  of  methods  and  several  kinds 
of  apparatus  for  carrjdng  out  the  actual  process  of 
dry  cleaning  according  to  whether  the  work  is  to  be 
done  on  a  large  or  small  scale;  the  principle  of  cleaning 
being,  however,  the  same  in  every  case. 

It  is  a  great  advantage  and  saving  of  time  and 
benzine  to  get  as  much  dust  :is  possible  beaten  or 
shaken  out  of  the  garments.  This  may  be  done  with 
whips  on  a  mattress  if  a  dust  wheel  is  not  available. 
If  sticks  are  used  buttons  get  broken  and  other  damage 
ensues.  A  slowly  revolving  dust  wheel  similar  to,  but 
smaller  than,  the  type  used  for  carpet  dusting,  is  a 
very  good  machine  for  the  purpose.  It  may  be  either 
cylindrical  or  star-shajx^d.  It  is  essentially  a  revolving 
cage,  varying  in  diameter  from  5  feet  to  14  feet,  being 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         37 

constructed  of  wooden  bars  set  slightly  apart  so  that 
the  dust,  etc.,  loosened  hy  the  articles  rubbing  against 
each  other  in  the  slow  process  of  revolution,  may  fall 
between  them.  This  wheel  should  be  installed  in  a 
closed  compartment,  otherwise  the  dust  will  find  its 
way  through  the  plant  and  cause  no  end  of  trouble. 
A  fan  should  be  installed  in  a  wall  of  the  compartment 
to  carry  the  dust  outside  of  the  building  as  fast  as  it 
is  liberated  from  the  garments.  Hooks  should  also 
be  closed  with  pliers  to  prevent  them  catching  and 
tearing  anything.  After  dusting,  the  garments  should 
be  thoroughly  brushed,  especially  the  pockets,  with  a 
medium  stiff  brush.  Too  hard  a  brush  is  apt  to  tear 
the  wool  from  men's  garments  which  may  cause  shiny 
spots.  For  garments  of  soft  or  fine  texture  a  soft 
woolen  rag  made  into  a  ball  may  be  used  in  place  of 
a  brush.  This  woolen  rag  should  be  as  near  as  pos- 
sible of  the  same  color  as  the  article  to  be  cleaned, 
i.  e.,  a  light  colored  rag  should  be  used  for  light  stuffs 
and  one  of  a  dark  or  black  color  for  dark  stuffs.  A 
chief  requirement  is  that  the  brushes,  rags,  etc.,  used 
are  themselves  clean;  further,  that  they  are  perfectly 
dry,  i.  e.,  free  from  moisture. 

Finally,  if  the  weather  is  wet  or  the  garments  damp, 
they  should  be  dried  to  remove  any  moisture  they 
contain,  as  the  presence  of  water  prevents  the  benzine 
from  acting.  If  there  is  water  in  the  benzine  or  in 
the  goods,  damp  places  will  be  formed  in  the  latter. 
These  places  retain  their  own  dirt  and  absorb  dirt 
from  their  immediate  neighborhood,  and  the  dirt  in 
them  is  effectually  protected  from  the  detergent  action 


jS       DRV    CLEANER,    vSCOLRER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

of  the  benzine.  The  result  is  that  the  goods  leave  the 
washing  machine  covered  irrej^larly  with  dark  stains. 
If  treated  at  once  these  stains  can  j^cncrally  be  removed 
quite  readily  by  means  of  a  good  rubbing  and  brush- 
ing with  benzine  soap.  If,  however,  the  goods  have 
been  dried  they  often  resist  this  treatment  success- 
fully, and  nothing  remains  to  be  done  but  to  wash 
them  all  over  again,  taking  care,  of  course,  to  use 
perfectly  dry  benzine.  \\Tiite  woolen  goods  often 
show  up  dingy  and  gray  after  being  dry  cleaned. 
The  cause  lies  in  water  in  the  gasoline  or  dampness 
in  the  goods  themselves.  Correction  may  be  made  by 
recleaning  in  dry  benzine.  It  is  obvious,  however, 
that,  on  the  ground  of  economy,  both  of  benzine  and 
of  time  and  labor,  prevention  is  better  than  cure,  and 
the  following  simple  method  is  invariably  successful. 
Should  the  benzine  be  wet,  a  few  yards  of  white  and 
perfectly  dry  cotton  cloth  should  be  run  in  the  ma- 
chine with  the  benzine  for  a  few  minutes.  The  cotton 
will  absorb  the  whole  of  the  moisture,  and  after  its 
removal  the  ordinary  washing  can  be  safely  placed  in 
the  machine.  After  the  cotton  has  been  used  a  few 
times  for  drying  the  benzine,  it  cannot  be  trusted  to 
take  up  the  water  efficiently.  It  is,  therefore,  ex- 
tracted, dried,  wet-washed,  and  again  made  abso- 
lutely dry.  It  can  then  be  used  again  for  the  same 
jiurpose.  If  this  procedure  i.s  followed,  the  same 
piece  of  cotton  can  be  almost  indcfmitely  used. 

In  establishments  containing  no  hand  or  power 
operated  machinery  the  actual  process  of  dry  cleaning 
may  be  carried  on  as  follows: 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         39 

Five  vessels  sufficiently  large  to  allow  of  the  con- 
venient handling  of  the  stuffs  to  be  treated  in  them 
are  used.  The  vessels  may  be  of  zinc-sheet,  though 
it  is  better  to  have  them  made  of  copper  sheet,  or  to 
employ  large  stone-ware  pots  such  as  are  much  used 
in  the  chemical  industry.  Each  vessel  should  be 
provided  with  a  well-fitting  lid.  The  vessels  should 
be  cylindrical  in  form  and  greater  in  depth  than 
diameter. 

Fill  the  vessels  three-quarters  full  with  benzine, 
and  then  sort  the  articles  which  are  to  be  cleaned. 
Separate  the  lighter  from  the  darker,  and  in  this 
manner  arrange  several  piles  of  articles.  Spread  out 
each  article,  first  the  lighter  and  last  the  darker, 
upon  a  table  covered  with  zinc-sheet  (see  Fig.  7)  and 
remove  the  worst  stains.  For  this  purpose  tie  a 
piece  of  wadding,  the  size  of  a  fist  and  made  into  a 
ball,  into  a  piece  of  white  Hnen  so  that  the  comers 
of  the  latter  can  be  useM  as  a  handle.  This  con- 
trivance is  called  a  "tampion."  Now  dip  the  tampion 
into  benzine  in  a  dish  until  it  is  thoroughly  saturated, 
and  vigorously  rub  the  dirtiest  places  until  the  greater 
portion  of  the  dirt  is  removed.  Proceed  in  the  same 
manner  with  all  the  articles,  the  darker  being  taken 
last,  because  by  repeatedly  dipping  the  tampion  into 
the  benzine  the  latter  acquires  a  darker  color. 

The  benzine  remaining  after  the  operation  is  fin- 
ished is  poured  into  a  large  vessel,  which  is  provided 
with  a  well-fitting  lid.  Now  wash  the  articles  treated 
with  the  tampion,  one  after  the  other,  in  vessel  No.  i, 
throw  them  into  vessel  No.  2,  and  cover  the  latter. 


40    DRV  ci.i:am:r,  scourer,  garmknt  dvkr. 

Then  thoroughly  wash  lot  No.  i  with  the  hands,  and 
in  the  meanwhile  bring  the  articles  in  vessel  No.  2 
into  No.  3.  Now  throw  the  washed  lot  No.  1  into 
vessel  No.  2,  and  then  commence  washing  the  next 
lot,  bringing  in  the  meanwhile  the  articles  in  vessel 
No.  3  into  No.  4.  and  those  in  No.  2  into  No.  3.  The 
lot  washed  next   is  then  thrown  into  vessel  No.   2. 

Benzine  soap,  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  of 
soap  to  40  gallons  of  soline,  should  be  dissolved  in 
the  gasoline  in  vessel  No.  i.  It  is  well  to  go  over 
very  dirty  articles  with  a  tampion  dipped  in  a  con- 
centrated soap  solution.  Care  should  be  taken  to  rinse 
all  soap  from  the  garment  after  the  cleaning  is  finished. 

This  changing  of  the  articles  from  one  vessel  to 
the  other  is  done  for  the  pur])ose  of  always  bringing 
the  first  lot,  that  is,  the  white  pieces,  in  contact  with 
pure  benzine,  the  latter  becoming  constantly  darker 
by  washing  the  articles.  The  articles  first  treated 
are  again  finally  washed  in  vessel  No.  5,  then  spread 
out  upon  the  table  and  examined.  If  dirty  places 
are  still  found,  the  articles  are  rubbed  with  a  clean 
tampion  dip[)ed  into  the  benzine  in  vessel  No.  5,  and 
then  for  some  time  placed  in  vessel  No.  5.  From  the 
latter  they  are  thrown  into  a  vessel  provided  with 
a  lid,  in  which  the  adhering  Ijenzine  drains  off  and 
is  from  time  to  time  removed  by  tilting  the  vessel. 
The  articles  are  finally  wrung  by  passing  them  be- 
tween the  rolls  of  a  wringer,  or,  still  better,  the  ad- 
hering benzine  is  removed  by  means  of  an  extractor 
worked  by  hand.  The  articles  are  then  dried  in  quite 
hot.  well-ventilated  drying-chambers. 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         4I 

By  this  treatment  the  articles  are  thoroughly 
cleaned  as  far  as  can  be  done  with  benzine.  It  must, 
however,  be  mentioned  that  all  stains  produced  by 
alkalies,  acids,  sugar,  milk,  etc.,  resist  the  action  of 
benzine.  The  same  is  also  the  case  with  the  so-called 
sweat-stains,  which  are  caused  by  a  change  in  the 
color.  To  remove  such  stains,  the  separate  places 
must  be  subjected  to  a  special  treatment,  as  will  be 
explained  later  on. 

The  method  above  described  is  very  practical,  but 
possesses  the  inconvenience  of  the  operator  being 
much  exposed  to  the  vapors  of  the  benzine.  This 
may,  however,  be  avoided  by  carrying  on  the  work 
under  a  well-drawing  chimney.  When  working  in  this 
manner  the  utmost  precaution  must  be  observed  to 
prevent  accidents.  The  room  should  be  kept  well 
ventilated,  and  the  vessels  kept  tightly  covered  when 
not  in  use.  Also,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  drip 
gasoline  on  the  floor  when  transferring  garments  from 
one  vessel  to  another. 

For  draining  the  articles,  a  tall  cylindrical  vessel 
of  zinc  or  copper,  provided  with  ,a  perforated  false 
bottom,  is  generally  used.  The  adhering  benzine 
drains  off  through  the  perforated  bottom,  and  is  from 
time  to  time  drawn  off  through  a  cock  near  the  true 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  vessel  may  also  be  pro- 
vided with  a  movable  lid  and  screw,  so  that  by  ap- 
plying pressure  this  portion  of  the  operation  is  ac- 
celerated. 

Silk  articles  are  simply  washed  by  hand  in  the 
above-described    manner,    as    otherwise    they    would 


42   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

suffer  too  much.  Besides,  if  only  individual  stains 
have  to  be  removed,  the  articles,  with  the  exception 
of  the  stained  portion,  remain  intact,  and  the  latter 
itself  is  only  treated  with  the  greatest  care.  The  laws 
of  a  great  many  states  and  cities  now  prohibit  doing 
cleaning  work  by  hand  in  the  manner  above  described. 
The  man  who  is  contemplaling  entering  the  business 
should  thoroughly  acquaint  himself  with  the  laws  of 
his  state  and  city  on  this  sui)ject. 

For  working  on  a  larger  scale,  the  arrangement 
above  described  is,  however,  unsuitable.  The  arrange- 
ment to  be  described  here  depends  on  using  a  heavy 
benzine  of  0.74  to  0.85  specific  gravity  for  washing 
and  rinsing.  After  cleansing,  the  goods  are  dried  in  a 
closed  chamber. 

The  use  of  heavy  benzine  has  many  advantages. 
Being  less  volatile  than  the  lighter  kinds  it  does  not 
waste  so  much  by  evaporation,  neither  is  it  so  liable 
to  accidents  by  fire. 

The  plant  necessarily  consists  of  washing  machines, 
machines  for  washing  and  rinsing,  extractors,  a  still 
for  reclaiming  gasoline,  a  dry-room,  an  underground 
gasoline  storage  system,  and  cleaning-tables.  If  the 
volume  of  business  is  large  enough,  auxiliary  machines 
consisting  of  a  tumbler,  a  steam-board,  a  benzine 
clarifier,  glove-cleaning  machines,  etc.,  will  be  needed. 
The  size  of  each  of  these  machines  will  depend,  of 
course,  on  the  particular  conditions  existing  in  any 
plant.  In  any  event  the  equipment  should  have  a 
capacity  more  than  sufficient  to  take  care  of  the 
present  needs.     The  power-oix?rated  machines  should 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         43 

be  placed  along  one  side  of  the  room  to  permit  all 
of  them  being  operated  from  one  power  shaft.  The 
arrangement  of  the  machinery  should  be  such  that  a 
minimimi  amount  of  handling  will  be  required  to 
complete  the  day's  work. 

All  machines  and  vessels  used  in  a  dry-cleaning 
establishment  should  have  tight-fitting  covers  in  order 
to  prevent  evaporation  of  the  solvent  employed. 

All  kinds  of  benzine  washing  machines,  both  for 
hand  and  power,  are  on  the  market,  and  there  should 
be  no  difficulty  in  finding  a  suitable  one.  It  should  have 
a  cover  which  closes  tightly,  be  easy  to  get  at  in  all 
its  parts,  work  evenly,  and  be  kept  scrupulously  clean. 
The  simplest  form  of  machine  is  merely  a  closed 
cylinder  divided  into  two  parts  lengthwise  by  a  set  of 
parallel  pipes,  and  capable  of  rotation  on  its  axis,  which 
is  kept  horizontal.  The  best  material  is  iron,  all  inner 
parts  being  galvanized  or  tinned.  The  speed  of  ro- 
tation is  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  turns  per  minute. 
The  stuff  is  on  one  side  of  the  pipes  only,  so  that  it  is 
dipped  into  the  benzine  at  every  revolution,  and  can 
be  taken  out  after  it  has  been  left  to  drain  in  the 
cylinder. 


Fig.  2. 


44       HK'i     CLl-ANliR,    SCOLRKR,    GARMl.NT    DYl  R. 


A  better  form  of  machine,  however,  is  a  rotating 
ca^e,  into  which  the  goods  arc  put.  It  turns  inside 
a  fixed  cyhnder  containing  the  benzine,  into  which 
the  lower  half  of  the  cage  dips.  The  cage  is  divided 
lengthwise  in  the  same  manner  as  the  rotating  cylinder 
in  the  first  machine. 

Fig.  2  shows  a  power-driven  washing  machine.    The 


r-- 


outside  shell  t)r  tub  is  made  of  iianl  brass  or  galvanized 
iron  of  ample  strength,  riveted  on  cast-iron  heads,  the 
joints  of  which  are  planed  and  fastened  together  with 
bolts.  These  are  made  perfectly  oil-tight.  The  tub 
is  fitted  with  a  sliding  door  ;ind  patent  reverse  move- 
ment. Only  cut  gears  are  used,  all  of  which  are  pro- 
tected by  guards. 

The  cylinder  or  cage  of  the  machine  shown  in  Fig.  3 
is;  rn.id*'  of  \'n    i^  half-hard  brass,  rivftt'd  on  to  the 


DRY,  CHEMICAL,  OR  FRENCH  CLEANING.    45 

flange  of  the  cast-iron  spiders,  which  form  the  heads. 
The  flange  extends  over  the  sheet  brass,  thereby  re- 
lieving the  rivets  of  the  strain  caused  by  the  falHng 
of  the  goods.  The  inside  surface  of  the  cast-iron 
spiders  is  covered  with  brass  or  copper.  The  special 
process  of  embossing  the  brass  cylinder  leaves  no-  sharp 
edges  to  tear  or  damage  the  goods,  as  the  ridge  of  the 
perforation  is  rolled  over  and  forms  a  solid  and  smooth 


Fig.  4. 


bead  which  adds  strength  to  the  plates.  The  hinges 
extend  across  the  length  of  the  door  and  serve  to 
prevent  the  springing  of  the  latter. 

Fig.  4  shows  a  washing  machine  of  similar  construc- 
tion for  hand-power. 

Washing.— If.  the  goods  are  much  stained  or  are 
specially  dirty  in  places,  all  such  stains  or  dirty  places 
should  be  well  brushed  over  with  a  concentrated  benzine 
solution  of  benzine-soap.  The  benzine  in  the  washing 
machine  will  not  remove  encrusted  dirt  or  obstinate 


46   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Stains  unless  this  preliminary  step  has  been  taken,  and 
g(x>ds  which  have  been  brushed  over  with  lx.'nzine-soap 
in  places  must  be  allowed  to  lie  for  a  time  Ixjfore  going 
into  the  machine,  so  that  the  soap  may  have  time  to 
loosen  the  impurities  sufficiently  to  enable  the  benzine 
in  the  washing  machine  to  get  rid  of  them  altogether. 

It  is  important  from  many  jjoints  of  view  to  shorten 
the  actual  benzine  washing  as  much  as  possible.  These 
points — the  saving  of  time,  labor,  waste  of  benzine, 
etc. — are  obvious  enough,  and  it  is  especially  obvious 
that  the  benzine-soap  treatment  just  mentioned  is 
most  useful  in  this  respect. 

One  or  two  other  points  may  be  mentioned.  Small 
fragile  articles  should  not  be  washed  loose,  but  in 
muslin  bags.  Feather  boas  and  feather  ornamented 
articles  generally  must  be  tested  before  dry-cleaning 
to  discover  with  what  substance  the  feathers  have  been 
stuck  on.  If  this  substance  is  soluble  in  benzine  it  is 
naturally  futile  to  attempt  to  dry-clean  the  goods, 
and  if  it  is  insoluble,  care  must  be  taken  that  the 
feathers  are  not  torn  off  or  damaged  by  the  mechanical 
effect  of  the  rotation  of  the  machine.  Mother-of-pearl 
must  never  be  allowed  to  touch  benzine,  which  destroys 
its  lustre,  so  that  buttons,  etc.,  of  that  material  must 
be  taken  off  before  the  garment  is  dry-cleaned. 

The  lightest-colored  goods  are  taken  first  and  run 
from  20  to  25  minuted  in  the  washer  ])artially  filled 
with  fresh  benzine.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  get 
too  much  benzine  in  the  machine,  otherwise  the  gar- 
ments will  float  on  the  solvent  and  not  get  the  dropping 
and  rubbing  that  arc  necessary  to  free  them  from  dirt. 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         47 

This  is  followed  by  a  rinse  in  a  second  machine  with 
fresh  benzine,  while  the  darker  goods  go  into  the  first 
machine  without  the  benzine  in  it  being  changed. 
Or  the  rinsing  may  follow  the  washing  in  the  same 
machine,  removing  the  dirty  benzine  to  the  still  for 
recovery.  Benzine  used  once  for  rinsing  may,  as  above 
mentioned,  be  used  without  purifying  for  the  first  wash 
for  darker  goods  or  dirty  material. 

The  rinsed  goods  are  hfted  from  the  machine  and 
taken  to  the  extractor  or  centrifugal  machine  for  the 
removal  of  the  excess  of  solvent.  The  benzine  thus 
extracted  is  allowed  to  flow  back  into  a  storage  tank 
for  future  use.  Provision  for  thorough  lubrication  of 
the  extractor,  especially  when  running  at  a  high  speed, 
must  be  made  to  minimize  the  risk  of  overheating. 
If  the  extractor  is  connected  to  the  benzine  tank, 
a  gauze  interceptor  must  be  provided  to  prevent  any 
flame  passing  down  the  pipes  into  the  storage  tanks. 

There  are  many  types  of  extractors,  some  being 
made  with  the  driving  arrangement  underneath,  and 
are  known  as  under-driven  extractors;  this  allows  of 
employment  of  a  tight-fitting  lid.  Others  have  all  the 
working  parts  at  the  top  of  the  machine  and  are 
known  as  over-driven  extractors.  The  principle  is, 
however,  the  same  in  all  the  machines,  an  inner  per- 
forated cage  revolving  at  great  speed  in  which  the  goods 
are  placed.  By  the  centrifugal  action  set  up  on  the 
revolution  of  the  machine,  the  solvent  contained  in  the 
articles  placed  in  the  inner  cage  or  basket  is  forced 
to  the  circumference  of  the  cage,  and  finds  its  way 
through  the  perforations  of  the  latter,  and  is  conducted 


48      DRV    C  LEANER,    SCOLRER,    GARMENT    DVER. 

away  by  the  outer  casing.  In  extractors  practically 
no  pressure  is  brought  upon  the  goods,  the  pile  of  such 
goods  as  velvets  and  plushes  is  not  injured  in  any  way, 
so  that  they  are  in  a  fit  condition  for  other  treatment. 
The  operation  with  extractors  is  very  simple;   all  that 


Fig.  5- 


is  necessary  is  to  pack  the  goods  well  round  the  sides 
of  the  inner  cage,  taking  care  that  the  latter  is  properly 
balanced,  that  is  to  say.  that  one  side  does  not  contain 
a  heavier  weight  than  the  other. 

Fig.  5  shows  a  hand  extractor,  which  can  be  easily 
converted  into  a  power  machine  by  slipping  onto  the 
crank  shaft  a  pair  of  tight  and  loose  pulleys.     The 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING. 


49 


gears  are  accurate  and  practically  noiseless  in  operation. 
The  basket  is  suspended  on  steel  ball-bearing,  and  is 
24  inches  in  diameter  and  14  inches  high. 

When  the  pieces  leave  the  extractor  they  are  almost 
dry,  but  in  order  to  thoroughly  free  them  from  fumes 
they  must  air  several  hours  in  a  warm  room.  This 
dry-room  must  be  warmed  by  means  of  hot  air  or  steam 
heat,  direct  fire  being  of  course  out  of  the  question. 


Fig.  6. — A  Scrubbing  Table 


Of  late  years  the  drying  tumbler  has  come  into 
extensive  use  for  drying  garments  and  other  articles 
that  have  been  dry  cleaned.  Essentially  this  machine 
consists  of  a  perforated  cylinder  designed  to  revolve 
inside  of  a  shell  of  galvanized  sheet  iron.  Beneath  the 
cylinder  are  coils  of  steam  pipes  which  furnish  the  heat 
for  the  drying  operation.  A  fan  located  on  top  of  the 
machine  creates  an  air  current  which  draws  the  heat 
through  the  garments  and  expels  the  vaporized  gasoline 
to  the  outside  of  the  building  through  a  closed  pipe. 


50   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  D^  ER. 

Garments  can  be  dried  in  this  machine  much  quicker 
than  in  a  dry-room.  In  addition,  articles  of  heavy 
texture,  such  as  blankets  and  heavy  woolen  garments, 
present  a  much  better  appearance  after  being  so  treated, 
as  the  tumbling  which  they  undergo,  together  with  the 
action  of  the  heat,  raises  the  nap  and  ^ves  the  fabric 


Fig.  7. — A  Dr\'ing  Tumbler. 


a  better  feel.  The  machme  is  also  used  to  dust  and 
dry  garments  before  they  are  placed  in  the  washing 
machine. 

In  the  above-described  manner  even  rather  dirty 
goods  will  be  turned  out  in  a  faultless  condition,  and 
only    in    rare    cases    subsequent    washing    with    soap 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         5I 

will  be  required.  Even  very  dirty  goods  will  often 
require  only  a  final  brushing  with  cold  water  after 
the  evaporation  of  the  benzine.  It  is,  however,  very 
important  to  remember  that,  if  soap  must  be  used, 
the  temperature  of  the  soap  must  in  no  case  exceed 
80°  F. 

White  woolen  and  silk  goods  are  brushed  over 
with  a  somewhat  weaker  solution  of  benzine  soap  in 
benzine,  and  run  for  from  15  to  20  minutes  in  the 
washer.  As  regards  silk,  this  is  done  on  account  of 
the  greater  danger  of  explosion,  and  wool  readily 
turns  gray,  especially  in  damp  weather  and  with 
fresh  benzine.  Benzine  several  times  distilled  is,  on 
the  whole,  better  for  white  goods  than  fresh  benzine, 
the  former  being  specifically  lighter  than  the  latter, 
and  the  goods  turning  out  more  beautiful  the  specific- 
ally lighter  the  benzine  is. 

White  goods,  after  being  well  dried  and  brushed, 
and  hooks  and  eyes,  buckles  and  other  sharp  objects 
attached  to  them  removed,  are  thoroughly  washed 
in  distilled  benzine  with  a  strong  solution  of  benzine 
soap.  They  are  then  immediately  rinsed  twice  in 
clean  distilled  benzine  and  extracted.  They  should 
not  be  run  in  the  washing  machine  for  more  than 
15  or  20  minutes.  When  thus  cleaned,  remaining 
stains  are  easy  to  remove  and  the  goods  turn  out 
better  than  by  dry  washing  after  removing  the 
stains.  White  uniforms  and  fancy  costumes,  if  the 
lining  and  make-up  permit,  must  sometimes  be  brushed 
off  with  weakly  acidulated  water  and  dried  before 
being  dry  cleaned. 


52   HRV  CI.FANFR,  SCOl  RER,  GARMENT  OVER. 

Colored  silks,  when  ven'  dirty  and  stained,  some- 
times cannot  be  properly  cleaned  by  the  dry  process, 
and  the  then  necessary  wet  cleaning  should  be  pre- 
ceded by  a  washing  with  benzine.  When  the  silk  is 
thus  partially  cleaned,  the  wet  washing  can  be  of  a 
gentler  character,  and  will  Ix;  more  rapidly  effected, 
and  the  colors  will  suffer  much  less  from  it.  One  point 
which  deserves  special  attention  is  the  frequent  oc- 
currence of  red  stripes  intenvoven  in  the  waists  of 
ladies'  blouses.  These  red  stripes  usually  give  up 
their  dye  to  the  benzine,  whereby  not  only  the  silks, 
but  everything  else  in  the  machine  is  ruined.  Waist 
bands  containing  such  stripes  must  always  be  removed 
from  the'garment  before  cleaning.  Small  articles  are 
cleaned  together  in  a  coarse  muslin  bag.  otherwise 
they  are  very  liable  to  be  lost.  If  a  wet  cleaning 
must  follow  the  chemical  treatment,  make  a  lukewarm 
solution  of  a  gall  soap,  or  of  a  good  neutral,  olive-oil 
soap.  Then  spread  the  article  on  a  clean  surface — 
best  on  a  slab  of  marble — and  apply  the  soap  to  it 
with  a  soft  brush,  or  if  the  silk  is  very  fine,  with  a 
sponge.  Work  as  rapidly  as  i)ossible  to  lessen  the 
chance  of  the  color  being  affected,  rinse  thoroughly 
but  expeditiously,  and  immediately  afterwards  place 
the  silk  in  an  acetic  acid  bath.  Extract  the  articles 
rolled  separately  in  calico.  After  drying  dress  with 
a  solution  of  gelatine,  and  press. 

Although  by  washing  in  the  machine,  most  of  the 
grease  and  dirt  attached  to  the  goods  is  removed, 
there  are,  as  previously  mentioned,  frequently  stains 
of  paint,   acid,  fruit,  etc..  which  are  not  affected  or 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         53 

removed  by  the  benzine.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary 
to  subject  the  goods  to  a  thorough  examination  after 
they  have  been  taken  from  the  washing  machine, 
and  if  stains  are  foimd,  to  remove  them  by  special 
means,  which  will  be  referred  to  later  on. 

Cleaning  and  renovating  real  velvet  goods.  This  kind 
of  work  constitutes  a  special  department  in  cleaning 
establishments  and  will,  therefore,  be  here  discussed 
in  detail.  As  a  rule,  goods  of  this  class  are  injured 
by  having  been  crushed  or  exposed  to  rain.  The 
cleaner's  office,  therefore,  is  to  remove  the  spots  and 
other  damages  arising  from  these  causes.  The  oper- 
ation consists  of  two  processes,  namely,  cleaning  and 
steaming.  First  of  all  the  velvet  must  be  freed  from 
dust,  which  is  best  accomphshed  by  placing  the  article 
on  a  soft  foundation  and  beating  it  thoroughly  with  an 
ordinary  beater,  such  as  is  used  for  upholstered  fur- 
niture, or  dusting  it  in  a  tumbler.  The  article  is  next 
manipulated  with  a  wire  bi-ush,  special  attention  being 
given  to  particularly  hard  spots.  When  the  article 
has  thus  been  freed  from  dust,  it  is  thoroughly  rubbed 
with  benzine,  applied  with  a  soft  woolen  rag,  special 
attention  being  paid  to  the  damaged  parts.  The 
brushing  should  always  be  in  the  direction  of  the  nap. 
Velvets  may  also  be  cleaned  in  the  ordinary  manner 
in  a  washing  machine,  but  the  best  authorities  recom- 
mend both  a  dry  and  a  wet  cleaning.  When  wet  clean- 
ing very  little  soap  should  be  used  and  the  goods  should 
be  handled  carefully.  Silk  velvets  are  dry  cleaned  in 
the  ordinary  manner,  dried,  and  lightly  sponged  with 
an  ace  tic- acid  solution.     Care  should  be  taken  when 


54   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

extracting  not  to  crush  the  pile.  Stains  caused  by  oil, 
paint,  tar.  varnish,  etc..  which  do  not  yield  to  the  treat- 
ment with  benzine  or  chloroform,  are  removed  by 
covering  them  with  butter  or  lard,  allowing  them  to 
stand  for  some  time,  and  rubbing  again  with  benzine. 
The  article  is  then  dried  with  the  assistance  of  heat, 
and  rubbed,  in  the  same  manner  as  with  bcnzme. 
with  rectified  alcohol,  using  a  soft  woolen  rag  and  giving 
special  care  to  spots  caused  by  crushing  and  rain. 
Should  there  be  spots  due  to  corrosive  substances, 
they  should  be  treated  with  a  mi.xture  of  alcohol  and 
ammonia;  but  in  case  the  color  is  not  revived  by  this 
means,  a  little  logwood  and  green  vitriol  (ferrous 
sulphate)  must  be  used  to  restore  it.  The  spots 
thus  dyed  are  allowed  to  dry  and  are  again  brushed. 
Very  dirty  articles  must  be  entirely  cleaned  with 
benzine. 

When  the  velvet  has  been  thoroughly  cleaned,  that 
is,  clean  to  the  backing,  steaming  may  be  proceeded 
with.  This  is  done  on  the  steaming-board,  which  is 
covered  with  a  thick  woolen  cover,  over  which  a  soft 
linen  cloth  is  drawn  to  prevent  the  steam  from  being 
too  moist  when  it  strikes  the  velvet.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  use  dry  steam.  The  steam  valves  must 
close  proi)erly  so  that  the  flow  of  steam  can  be  regu- 
lated at  will.  Everything  being  in  order,  the  article 
is  stretched  smoothly  over  the  sieam-boanl,  and  a  little 
steam  being  turned  on,  the  damaged  places  are  thor- 
oughly scrubbed  with  a  small  sharp  brush — a  nail-brush 
will  do — until  they  have  been  restored,  after  which  they 
are  brushed  with  a  larger  softer  brush,  in  order  to 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         55 

remove  gloss  and  the  former  brush  marks,  and  to 
give  the  whole  a  uniform  appearance.  The  steam  is 
then  allowed  to  flow  in  with  greater  force,  but  the 
article  must  not  become  too  hot,  so  that  after  clos- 
ing the  valve,  it  will  not  become  moist  by  the  con- 
densation of  the  steam.  Good  light  is  a  special  requi- 
site, and  the  work  should  be  done  in  a  place  free  from 
all  draught,  for  a  single  cold  draught  of  air  is  sufficient 
to  spoil  all.  If,  however,  notwithstanding  every  pre- 
caution, an  article  becomes  damp,  it  must  at  once 
be  dried  and  the  process  .  repeated.  Every  portion 
of  a  ripped  garment  as  well  as  every  part  of  a  whole 
article  should  be  secured  with  pins  so  that  no  shifting 
can  take  place.  When  all  the  stains  have  been  re- 
moved, the  articles  are  exposed  to  a  heavy  flow  of 
steam  for  the  purpose  of  equalizing  the  whole.  Whole 
velvet  jackets  are  for  this  purpose  hung  upon  broad 
hangers  so  that  the  sleeves  are  well  spread  out.  and 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  touch  the  articles  while 
still  warm  or  damp. 

Articles  which  may  have  become  dull  may  be  rubbed 
with  a  soft  woolen  rag  moistened  with  oil  dissolved  in 
benzine,  but  this  must  be  done  very  carefully  and 
uniformly. 

These  directions,  if  carefully  followed,  will  insure 
success,  but  the  work  is  not  so  easy  as  it  looks  on 
paper;  dexterity  and  care  are  both  necessarv.  and  a 
certain  routine  is  only  acquired  by  practice 

Large  establishments  have  specially  constructed 
velvet-steamers.  Such  an  apparatus  is  so  constructed 
that  owing  to  interior  partitions,  the  water  must  ab- 


56      DR^     CLHANER,    SCOURtR,    GARMENT    DVtR. 

solutely  separate  from  the  steam.  In  addition,  the 
steam-pipe  is  provided  with  a  discharge  pii)e  for  the 
condensed  water.  The  steamer  is  constructed  of  cop- 
per and  enclosed  on  all  sides,  so  that  the  steam  can 
escape  only  in  front,  where  it  is  to  act. 

After  having  been  cleaned  the  article  is  most  suit- 
ably steamed  by  not  taking  too  large  a  surface  at  one 
time,  but  steaming  a  portion  thoroughly,  brushing 
with  a  hard  brush  from  bottom  to  top,  and  repeating 
brushing  and  steaming  until  the  velvet  shows  a  uni- 
form appearance.  When  thus  the  entire  surface  of 
the  garment  has  been  uniformly  treated,  a  gentle  flow 
of  dry  steam  is  again  passed  through.  Finally,  the 
garment  is  brushed  from  top  to  bottom.  By  this 
process  velvet  and  plush  are  made  to  look  like  new. 

Every  velvet  article  must  be  treated  according  to 
the  special  circrmistances  of  the  case,  and  it  may 
happen  that  the  cleaner  has  a  number  of  garments, 
of  which  no  two  can  be  treated  in  exactly  the  same 
manner,  ^^^^ite  silk  velvets  are  frequently  best  cleaned 
by  wet  washing  and  bleaching.  Pressed  velvet  blouses 
require  a  special  treatment.  Very  small  stains  should 
be  damped  and  removed,  if  possible,  by  careful  use 
of  the  finger  nail,  taking  care  not  to  work  against  the 
nap.  In  brushing,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure 
the  pattern,  and  the  steaming  before  the  final  brushing 
with  a  soft  brush  must  be  very  slight  indeed. 

In  removing  stains  from  laJics'  cloth  coats,  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  make  them  too  wet.  There  is 
of  course  extra  risk  of  doing  so  if  the  stains  are  numer- 
ous or  obstinate.     The  luster  sutlers  by  over  wetting. 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         57 

and  it  is  impossible  to  restore  it  by  hand  ironing. 
Rain  stains  are  ver}'-  common  on  such  garments,  and 
are  best  removed  by  ironing  them  under  a  damp 
cloth,  between  which  and  the  stain  must  again  be 
laid  a  dry  cloth,  so  that  only  steam  reaches  the  stain 
which  is  then  absorbed  by  the  dry  cloth.  Dust  stains 
on  silk  are  removed  by  benzine,  as  the  use  of  water 
merely  substitutes  a  water  stain  for  the  original  mark. 

Dry  cleaning  rarpets.  The  processes  to  be  selected 
in  carpet  cleaning  depend  on  the  size  of  the  carpet, 
on  the  way  in  which  it  has  been  dyed,  and  on  the  de- 
gree of  dirtiness.  Unskillful  cleaning  often  results  in 
making  the  carpet  quite  worthless.  It  cannot  be  ex- 
pected that  all  the  colors  in  a  many-colored  carpet 
should  be  fast  to. washing,  and  it  constantly  happens 
that  dark  patterns  bleed  on  to  a  light  colored  ground. 

If  a  carpet  is  obviously  unfitted  for  wet  washing  it 
must  be  dry  cleaned.  This  requires  very  large  washing 
machines,  holding  several  hundred  gallons  of  benzine. 
However,  a  carpet  not  too  dirty  can  be  cleaned  by 
first  freeing  it  from  dust  by  beating,  running  in  a 
dust  wheel,  or,  better,  by  the  vacuum  process.  It 
is  then-  spread  out  upon  a  floor  and  rubbed,  section 
by  section,  with  a  linen  cloth  tightly  rolled  together 
and  soaked  in  benzine  and  benzine  soap.  This  will 
freshen  the  colors  and  clean  the  carpet.  Weak  acetic 
acid  may  also  be  applied,  and  the  carpet  then  dried  and 
steamed.  Carpets  that  have  been  dry  cleaned  in  a 
washing  machine  must  be  resized.  This  is  done  by 
tacking  the  carpet  face  down  on  the  floor,  taking  care 
to  keep  the  edges  straight  and  at  right  angles  to  each 


58      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOLRFR,    GARMENT    PVKR. 

Other,  and  applying  glue  to  the  under  side  with  a  brush. 
The  glue  should  be  applied  hot  and  in  limited  quanti- 
ties, so  that  it  will  not  soak  through  to  the  nap.  Special 
preparations  for  sizing  carpets  and  rugs  are  now  on 
the  market  and  seem  to  give  better  results  than  glue. 

Following  are  a  few  general  hints  on  cleaning  the 
various  articles  that  find  their  way  to  the  dr>'  cleaner. 
The  cleaner  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  methods 
advocated  are  those  generally  followed  in  everyday 
practice  and  that  they  do  not  apply  in  all  instances. 
No  definite  rules  can  be  laid  down  for  cleaning  any 
article  or  class  of  wearing  apparel  and  the  method 
that  is  used  must  depend  entirely  upon  the  particular 
conditions  existing,  the  state  of  uncleanliness  of  the 
article,  the  dye  with  which  it  is  colored,  and  the 
amount  of  wear  and  service  it  has  undergone. 

Mai's  Garments.  As  a  rule,  men's  garments  can 
be  cleaned  in  a  satisfactory  manner  by  the  dr>'  process, 
although  quite  often  garments  \v\\\  be  met  with  that 
are  so  soiled  that  they  can  be  put  in  good  condition 
only  by  wet  cleaning.  Here,  again,  no  hard  and  fast 
rule  can  be  laid  down  governing  all  cases,  and  the 
cleaner  must  use  his  best  judgment  as  to  which  method 
will  give  the  best  results  at  the  least  expense.  Men's 
gamients  that  are  to  be  dr>-  cleaned  should  be  well 
dusted  and  dried,  placed  on  a  scrubbing  table  and 
gone  over  thoroughly  with  a  bnish  dipjx^d  in  a  benzine 
soap  solution.  They  then  may  he  placed  in  the  washer 
and  washed  in  the  ordinary  manner  without  the  ad- 
dition of  soap  to  the  lx?nzinc  <»lher  than  that  contained 
in  the  articles  as  a  rL-sult  of  the  brushing.     When  the 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         59 

washing  in  benzine  is  completed  the  garments  should 
be  put  through  one  or  more  rinses  of  clean  benzine, 
extracted  and  dried.  Dark  garments  may  be  washed 
in  clarified  or  settled  benzine.  White  garments  should 
be  washed  only  in  distilled  solvent. 

Hats  and  caps,  with  the  exception  of  straws  and 
Panamas,  may  be  dry  cleaned  in  the  same  manner  as 
men's  garments. 

Raincoats  are  generally  so  soiled  that  they  cannot 
be  cleaned  satisfactorily  by  the  dry  method  and,  as 
a  rule,  it  is  necessary  to  wet  clean  them.  No  coat  or 
other  article  containing  rubber  in  its  make-up  should 
be  placed  in  benzine,  as  benzine  dissolves  rubber. 

Overcoats  are  seldom  wet  cleaned.  When "  treated 
in  the  same  manner  as  outlined  above  for  men's  gar- 
ments the  results  are  satisfactory. 

Sweaters  and  knit  goods  may  be  dry  cleaned,  but 
better  results  may  generally  be  had  by  the  wet  method. 
White  and  light-colored  sweaters  should  be  dry  cleaned 
only  in  new  or  distilled  benzine. 

Women's  woolen  suits  and  dresses,  as  a  rule,  are  best 
cleaned  by  the  dry  method.  Nor  is  a  preliminary 
bi-ushing  with  a  solution  of  benzine  soap  necessary 
in  the  very  large  majority  of  cases,  although  the 
condition  of  the  particular  garment  must  dictate  the 
procedure  in  this  respect. 

Silk  dresses,  especially  if  decorated  with  fancy  trim- 
mings, must  be  dry  cleaned.  If  a  garment  of  this  na- 
ture is  badly  soiled  the  trimmings  must  be  removed 
and  the  wet  cleaning  resorted  to  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed in  the  chapter,  "Wet  Cleaning." 


6o      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Lmcc  can  seldom,  if  ever,  be  cleaned  in  a  satisf acton' 
manner  by  the  dry  method. 

Slippers  of  satin  are  easily  dry  cleaned.  They  should 
not  be  immersed  in  the  cleaning  fluid,  as  in  this  event 
the  coloring  matter  in  the  soles  is  very  sure  to  run. 
and  some  of  the  color  will  be  transferred  to  the  tops. 
The  satin  should  be  sponged  with  a  weak  solution 
of  benzine  soap,  without  touching  the  soles,  and  rinsed 
with  a  sponge  dipi^ed  in  clear  benzine. 

Blankets  aitd  lace  curtains  are  best  wet  cleaned  as 
described  under  the  chapter  devoted  to  wet  cleaning. 

Upholstered  furniture.  The  upholstery  on  furniture 
may  be  dry  cleaned  by  brushing  it  \\nth  a  benzine 
soap  solution  and  then  sponging  off  with  clear  solvent. 

Silk  plush  is  best  dry  cleaned  when  no  soap  is  added 
to  the  benzine.  Wlien  the  cleaning  oj^eration  is  com- 
pleted the  luster  of  the  fabric  should  be  heightened 
by  rubbing  with  a  woolen  rag  dipped  in  a  mixture 
made  u])  in  the  proportion  of  i  pint  of  benzine,  i  pint 
of  ether,  and  yi  pint  of  alcohol.  The  rubbing  should 
be  in  the  direction  of  the  najx  The  phisli  is  finished 
by  steaming  with  a  hose  or  over  a  steam-board. 

Colored  citarmeuse  silk  should  be  dr>'  cleaned,  never 
wet  cleaned.  The  white  fabric  may  be  wet  cleaned 
without  danger  of  damage.  When  spotting  this  ma- 
terial little  if  any  rubbing  of  the  spot  should  be  done, 
otherwise  a  light  spot  will  apjxiar  that  cannot  be  re- 
moved. 

Portitres  may  be  dry  cleaned,  but  never  in  a  washer 
containing  other  goods.  These  articles  give  off  much 
lint  which,  if  it  settles  on  other  articles,  is  ver\'  diffi- 


DRY,  CHEMICAL,  OR  FRENCH  CLEANING.    6l 

cult  to  remove.     An  addition  of  soap  to  the  benzine 
is  not  necessary. 

Tussah  silk  cannot  be  dry  cleaned,  a  wet  cleaning 
being  necessary  to  give  satisfactory  results. 


PURIFICATION    OF    BENZINE. 

It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  every  dry  cleaner 
to  recover  as  much  as  possible  of  the  benzine  which 
he  has  employed  for  removing  dirt  and  grease  so 
that  it  can  be  used  again  for  the  same  purpose. 
Many  methods  for  doing  this  have  been  proposed, 
and  a  few  of  them  will  here  be  described. 

Filtering.  The  benzine  is  filtered  in  succession 
through  sand,  charcoal  and  flannel.  A  suitable  fil- 
tering apparatus  consists  of  a  zinc  drum  from  40  to 
50  inches  high  and  13  to  14  inches  in  diameter,  pro- 
vided with  a  closely  fitting  cover  and  with  a  conical 
lower  end.  At  the  bottom  of  the  cylindrical  part  of 
the  drum  is  a  perforated  plate  to  support  the  filtering 
medium,  which  consists  of  a  felt  layer  about  one  and 
a  half  inches  thick,  covered  with  clean  sand,  which 
is  itself  covered  by  coarsely  powdered  animal  charcoal 
or  well  burnt  wood  charcoal.  'A  tap  at  the  bottom 
of  the  conical  drum  admits  the  withdrawal  of  the 
filtered  benzine.  The  felt  must  be  washed  from  time 
to  time,  and  fresh  sand  and  charcoal  put  in.  While 
filtered  benzine  is  not  sufficiently  colorless  for  use  on 
light  colored  articles,  it  answers  very  well  for  those 
dyed  with  dark  or  medium  shades. 


62      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURSR,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Purification  of  benzine  with  sulphuric  acid.  The  ben- 
zine is  c»mi)ounded  with  dilute  ^ '4  to  }/2  per  cent.)  sul- 
phuric acid  and  allowed  to  stand  quietly  for  24  to  36 
hours,  when  it  will  be  sufficiently  clarified  and  can  at 
once  be  used.  Although  benzine  so  purifie<l  can  be  used 
without  disadvantage  for  all  silk  and  all  wool  grades, 
the  acid  which  it  retains  makes  it  extremely  destructive 
of  all  cotton  fabrics,  so  that  it  is  inadmissible  even 
with  silk  or  woolen  goods,  if  they  are  lined  with  cotton. 
This  destructive  action  comes  on  with  time  in  any 
case,  but  immediately  if  the  articles  are  ironed. 

This  drawback  may,  however,  be  remedied  by  the 
following  process:  Bring  the  benzine  into  a  large 
earthenware  vessel,  and  while  stirring  constantly,  mix 
it  with  sulphuric  acid  in  the  proportion  of  one  quart 
of  acid  to  100  quarts  of  benzine.  Allow  the  mixture  to 
stand  quietly  for  from  24  to  48  hours.  If.  however,  the 
benzine  is  to  be  used  the  next  day,  draw  it  of!  carefully 
into  a  lead-lined,  sheet-iron  vessel  and  mix  it  with  one 
pound  of  lime  powder,  obtained  by  slaking  ordinan.' 
lime;  the  powder  should  be  jx'rfectly  dry.  In  about 
12  hours  all  the  dirt  and  lime  will  have  settled  on  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  benzine  is  then  drawn  off 
through  a  tap  placed  about  four  inches  above  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  Benzine  thus  purified  has  an 
odor  different  from  that  of  the  fresh  or  distilled  product ; 
the  odor,  however,  disappears  immediately  on  drjnng. 
The  benzine  is  not  perfectly  water-white,  it  showing 
a  yellowish  tint;  but  it  can  without  hesitation  be  used 
for  goods  of  dark  and  light  colors,  including  silk.  Even 
white  garments  turn  out  perfectly  clear  if,  after  washing 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         63 

with  the  clarified  benzine,  they  are  rinsed  in  fresh 
benzine. 

The  method  of  clarifying  benzine  invented  by 
Hasselbach  is  said  to  yield  very  satisfactory  results. 
It  consists  in  mixing  the  benzine  with  from  i  to  2 
per  cent,  of  its  weight  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid, 
the  quantity  depending  upon  the  amount  of  dirt  in 
the  benzine.  The  mixture  of  benzine  and  acid  is  well 
shaken  and  allowed  to  stand  until  it  has  completely 
separated  into  two  layers.  The  upper  layer  of  benzine 
is  then  decanted  and  mixed  thoroughly  with  i  per 
cent,  of  its  weight  of  the  following  solution:  Alum, 
20  oz.;  acetate  of  lead,  12  oz.;  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
5  oz.;  sulphate  of  soda,  5  oz.;  water,  10  gallons.  The 
mixture  is  allowed  to  stand  and  decanted  from  the 
precipitated  lead  sulphate  before  use.  The  acetate  of 
alumina  eventually  present  throws  out  all  the  fatty 
acids  from  the  benzine.  The  soluble  sulphates  make 
the  Hquid  heavy,  so  that  the  purified  benzine  will  rise  to 
the  surface,  whence  it  can  be  drawn  off  for  further  use. 

Deodorization  of  benzine.  Dissolve  in  the  badly 
smeUing  benzine  about  i  to  2  per  cent,  of  its  weight 
of  a  free  fatty  acid.  Then  add  about  X  per  cent, 
of  tannin  and  mix  intimately.  Finally  add  sufficient 
soda  or  potash  lye,  eventually  also  milk  of  lime,  to 
saponify  the  fatty  acid  and  neutralize  the  tannin, 
and  shake  repeatedly.  After  some  time  the  milky 
fluid  separates  into  two  layers— a  salty,  saponaceous 
slime  on  the  bottom  and  supernatant  clear  benzine 
ahnost  free  from  color  and  odor.  This  benzine,  when 
decanted  and  filtered,  may  be  at  once  used  for  many 


64      DRV    LI.tANHR,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

technical  purix)ses.  and  when  distilled  yields  an  ex- 
cellent and  pure  product.  The  fatty  acids  of  tallow, 
olive  oil,  or  of  other  fats  and  oils,  may  be  used  for  the 
purpose,  but  they  should  show  but  little  odor  of  rancid 
fat.  Oleic  acid  may  also  be  employed,  but  it  must 
previously  be  shaken  with  a  iV  l^r  cent,  soda  solu- 
tion to  get  rid  of  the  badly  smelling  volatile  fatty  acids, 
especially  butyric  acid. 

Piirificatioii  of  benzine  by  distillation.  The  l^est,  and 
in  fact  only  satisfacton.'  process  for  the  recover)'  and 
purification  of  benzine  as  yet  knov\'n,  is  distillation. 
In  proper  hands  the  distillation  is  not  only  jjerfectly 
safe,  but  it  wastes  less  of  the  benzine  than  any  other 
purification  process.  In  clearing  benzine  \\nth  sul- 
phuric acid  or  benzine  powders,  the  organic  dirt  par- 
ticles undergo  a  change  by  which  the  dirty  gray  color- 
ing turns  clear  and  yellowish,  but  a  perfectly  colorless 
fluid  which  could  be  safely  used  for  cleaning  white  or 
light-colored  articles  is  not  obtained.  Besides,  it  is 
doubtful  whether  the  benzine  thus  cleared  possesses 
the  strength  and  power  belonging  to  fresh  or  distilled 
benzine.  Benzine  cleared  by  repeated  filtering  will 
certainly  lose  the  greater  part  of  its  dirt,  but  none  of 
the  grease  and  soap  absorbed  b>-  it.  Benzine  cleared 
in  this  manner  will  also  not  be  perfectly  colorless, 
although  it  is  much  better  than  that  cleared  with 
sulphuric  acid. 

Any  one  having  doubts  on  the  subject  should  con- 
vince himself  by  making  a  trial  of  the  two  methods. 
For  instance,  light  clothes  washed  in  benzine  cleared 
with  sulphuric  acid,   never  look  clear  and  fresh.      In 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         65 

proof  of  this,  take  a  dress  and  wash  the  skirt  in  fresh 
or  distilled  benzine,  to  which  has  been  added  a  small 
quantity  of  benzine  soap,  and  then  wash  the  waist 
in  benzine  cleared  with  sulphuric  acid,  to  which  like- 
wise a  little  benzine  soap  has  been  added.  The  differ- 
ence will  at  once  be  apparent,  for  while  the  skirt  will 
be  perfect,  the  waist  will  have  a  grayish  yellow 
tinge. 

No  matter  whether  a  cleaning  establishment  be  large 
or  small,  a  distilling  apparatus  should  be  one  of  its 
appointments.  The  small  quantity  of  steam  needed 
for  distilling  can  be  provided  by  a  small  steam  gener- 
ator, in  case  other  power  is  wanting.  These  steam 
generators  are  chiefly  used  where  no  more  than  one- 
half  atmospheric  pressure  is  required,  as  for  steaming, 
distilling,  dyeing,  and  the  like.  They  have  a  wrought- 
iron  fire-box,  require  little  fuel,  and  are  at  the  same 
time  economical  and  most  satisfactory.  They  take 
up  little  room  because  they  need  not  be  walled  in, 
and  can  be  set  up  in  any  place  possessing  a  chimney. 

In  designing  a  plant  for  collecting  and  redistilling 
dirty  benzine  there  are  always  three  prominent  con- 
siderations: Safety  from  fire  and  economy  of  labor 
and  benzine.  Much  may  be  done  in  the  way  of  saving 
distilling  by  having  five  or  six  receptacles  for  taking 
the  benzine  run  out  of  the  washing  machine.  One  of 
these  receptacles  receives  the  benzine  that  has  been 
used  in  the  actual  cleaning,  the  others  taking  the 
separate  rinses. 

By  working  with  a  large  quantity  of  benzine  the 
first  two  or  three  of  these  receptacles,  beginning  with 


66      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

that  containing  the  dirtiest  benzine,  can  always  be 
allowed  time  to  settle.  The  bottoms  of  the  receivers 
being  funnel-shaped  with  a  tap  in  the  neck  of  the 
funnel,  the  sediment  can  be  let  out  with  a  minimimi 
of  benzine,  and  all  these  sediments  can  be  run  into 
the  still,  the  clear  supernatant  benzine  going  back  to 
the  washing  machine. 

Thus  the  amount  requiring  distillation  is  reduced 
to  a  minimum,  and  the  expensive  and  always  more 
or  less  dangerous  prcx^ess  is  carried  out  on  a  much 
smaller  scale  than  usual,  thereby  sax-ing  in  distilling 
plant,  in  time,  in  fuel,  and  in  risk. 

If  necessar>',  benzine  can  be  pumped  out  before 
the  settlement  of  the  mechanical  dirt  is  concluded, 
but  then  the  lower  end  suction  pipe  must  be  protected 
by  a  filter  or  strainer  of  some  kind,  and  should  not 
be  brought  too  near  any  sediment  that  may  have 
formed.  It  is  always  best  to  wash  and  rinse  with 
plenty  of  benzine,  divided,  however,  in  several  lots. 
In  this  way  the  danger  of  having  too  much  dirt  in 
the  receivers  at  a  time  is  obviated,  and  if  the  appara- 
tus is  well  planned  and  set  up  and  used  in  a  work- 
manlike manner,  there  \\i\\  be  no  fear  of  any  serious 
loss  by  evaporation,  or  by  valves  and  cocks  getting 
choked  by  sediment. 

In  purifying  benzine  by  distilling,  care  should  be 
had  not  to  fill  the  apparatus  above  the  mark  indi- 
cated on  the  gauge,  and  in  the  commencement  of  dis- 
tillation to  regulate  the  steam,  so  that  the  benzine 
runs  oflf  cold  and  water-clear  from  the  condenser. 
With  too  high  a  steam  pressure  oil  and  fat  i^ass  over 


DRY,  CHEMICAL,  OR  FRENCH  CLEANING.    d"] 

with  the  benzine  vapors,  and  therefore  the  pressure 
should  not  exceed  ^  atmosphere. 

Fig.  8  shows  a  practical  benzine  distiller.  It  is 
composed  of  three  principal  parts:  The  kettle  for 
the  reception  of  the  dirty  benzine;  the  condenser  in 
which  the  benzine  vapor  is  cooled  off,  and  the  divider 
through  which  the  distilled  benzine  flows  out. 


© 

^--'^ 

■^^^ 

=< 

r 

'i 

A 

n 

% 

- 

1 

&_ 

Y  <s 

-io       - 

Fig.  8. 


The  apparatus  is  filled  with  the  dirty  benzine  up 
to  the  mark  indicated  on  the  gauge,  through  the 
hole  A,  which  is  hermetically  closed  after  the  filling. 
Steam  is  then  gradually  introduced,  and  the  cold- 
water  cock  B  turned  on,  the  still  being  then  in  work- 
ing order.  The  benzine  flows  through  valve  C,  while 
the  water  separated  from  the  benzine  has  its  outlet 
through  the  pipe  D.  After  the  benzine  ceases  to  flow 
the  steam  is  shut  off  and  the  valve  E  opened  so  that 


68      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

the  dirt  residues  may  runout.  By  this  simple  process  the 
apparatus  actually  cleans  itself,  and  no  benzine  is  lost. 

The  apparatus  is  constructed  of  hammered  polished 
copper,  is  very  strong,  and  can  easily  be  kept  clean  and 
in  good  working  condition. 

The  benzine  still  shown  in  Fi.^.  q,  is  consiructed  of 


Fig.  Q. — Bcnzini'  Still. 

extra-heavy  sheet  copper,  with  flanj^cd  center  and  dome. 
It  rests  on  a  strong  wmught-iron  frame  at  ri  convenient 
height  for  reaching  all  of  the  valves  and  cocks.  The 
still  is  supplied  \\nth  steam  cock  and  coil,  gauge  glass, 
vacuum  valve,  air  cock,  waste  cock,  worm,  valve, 
indicator  and  hand  hole. 

A  simple  method  of  purifying  the  dark  and  fre- 
quently perfectly  black  Ijenzine  previous  lo  distilla- 


DRY,    CHEMICAL,    OR    FRENCH    CLEANING.         69 

tion  is  as  follows:  MLx  the  benzine  with  dilute  soda 
solution  (about  10  quarts  of  soda  solution  to  1,000 
quarts  of  benzine).  After  separation  has  taken  place, 
draw  off  the  lye  and  wash  the  benzine  with  water.  The 
benzine  thus  treated  is  then  subjected  to  distillation. 

Clarification  of  benzine  by  centrifugal  force.  A  very 
efficient,  cheap  and  simple  means  of  clarifying  dirty 
benzine  is  oft"ered  by  the  centrifugal  clarifier.  In  ap- 
pearance this  machine  resembles  the  cream  separator; 
in  fact  it  works  on  the  same  principle  and  was  first 
placed  on  the  market  by  a  large  manufacturer  of  these 
latter  devices.  This  method  of  clarifying  benzine  has 
so  many  advantages  over  the  older  and  more  cumber- 
some methods  that  it  has  met  with  universal  approval 
of  the  large  majority  of  the  cleaners  of  the  country. 
In  construction  the  machine  is  very  simple.  It  con- 
sists merely  of  a  cast-iron  casing  or  housing  inside  of 
which  is  suspended  a  drawn-steel  bowl  of  small  dia- 
meter, and  about  three  feet  long.  This  bowl  is  re- 
volved at  a  very  high  speed.  The  gasoline  to  be  clari- 
fied enters  the  bowl  at  the  bottom.  The  centrifugal 
force  exerted  by  the  revolving  bowl  acts  on  the  heavier 
particles  of  foreign  matter  in  the  benzine,  holding  them 
to  the  sides  of  the  bowl,  while  the  gasoline  passes 
through  and  out  at  the  top.  The  action  of  the  machine 
is  rapid  and  any  given  quantity  of  benzine  may  be 
used  over  and  over  the  same  day,  doing  away  with  the 
necessity  of  keeping  a  large  quantity  of  the  solvent 
on  hand  in  storage.  The  benzine  delivered  by  the 
clarifier  is  of  a  yellowish  color  and  cannot  be  used  for 
cleaning  white  and  delicatelv  colored  articles,  but  serves 


■JO      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOLRER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

the  needs  very  well  for  the  darker  colored  ones.  The 
machines  are  driven  both  from  a  belt  and  by  a  small 
steam  turbine  located  at  the  top  of  the  machine  and 


Fig.  10. — Centrifugal   Benzine  Clarifier. 

connected  directly  to  the  shaft  of  the  lx)\vl.  The 
machine  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration,  Fig. 
lo.  is  of  the  latter  type. 


II. 

REMOVAL   OF    STAINS,    OR    SPOTTING. 

The  process  to  be  adopted  for  removing  stains  will 
largely  depend  on  the  material  of  which  the  textile 
fabric  is  made,  and  also  whether  it  is  dyed  or  not  dyed, 
and  on  the  character  of  the  stains  themselves.  The 
latter  may  be  broadly  divided  into  two  classes,  viz.: 
Stains  of  a  fatty  and  non-fatty  nature.  Besides,  there 
have  to  be  taken  into  consideration  stains  which 
destroy  the  color,  and  those  which  have  no  effect  upon 
it.  In  the  former  case  the  stain  itself  may  be  readily 
removed,  but  sometimes  it  will  be  impossible  to  restore 
the  impaired  color.  The  first  thing  is  to  find  out  what 
has  caused  the  stain.  If  no  conclusion  can  be  reached 
on  this  point,  the  cleaning  agents  it  is  proposed  to  try 
must  be  tested  as  to  their  action  on  the  dye  on  some 
part  of  the  garment  which  is  invisible  when  it  is  worn, 
or  at  any  rate  where  change  in  the  dye  would  be  likely 
to  escape  observation.  This  must  be  done  before  the 
stains  in  a  conspicuous  place  are  meddled  with. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  every  failure  to  remove 
a  stain  increases  the  difficulty  of  dealing  with  it,  and 
one  of  the  chief  troubles  of  the  professional  cleaner  is 
(71) 


72      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT  .DYER. 

wnth  stains  which  the  owners  of  the  garments  have 
themselves  tried  in  vain  to  get  rid  of. 

The  tools  required  for  the  removal  of  stains  consist 
of  tampions,  some  pieces  of  buckskin,  2  brushes,  one 
large  and  one  small,  a  marble  or  glass  slab,  sponges, 
spotting  sticks  for  daubing  the  spots,  one  rice  fiber 
brush,  two  small  pans,  one  for  distilled  water  and  the 
other  for  soap,  and  chemicals.  A  glass  slab  is  to  be 
preferred  to  a  wooden  board,  because  it  does  not  stain, 
is  readily  cleaned,  and  is  not  attacked  by  chemicals. 
Small  hard-wood  boards  rounded  off  on  both  sides, 
which,  if  necessary,  may  be  pushed  into  sleeves,  etc., 
are  also  vers'  useful. 

The  nature  of  the  agents  employed  must  be  suffi- 
ciently understood  to  make  a  success  of  the  opera- 
tion. Thus,  for  instance,  a  rust-stain  in  linen  or 
another  fabric  cannot  be  removed  v^^th  ammonia,  or 
a  stain  in  cloth  due  to  co])al  varnish,  with  dilute 
alcohol.  Rust  consists  of  hydrated  ferric  oxide  which 
is  insoluble  in  ammonia,  and  copal  varnish  does  not 
dissolve  in  dilute  alcohol.  Hence,  for  the  removal 
of  rust  an  agent  has  to  be  emjiloyed  which  enters  with 
the  hydrated  ferric  oxide  into  a  soluble  combination 
that  can  be  removed  by  w.ushing  with  water.  For 
cleaning  cloth  stained  with  copal  varnish,  an  agent 
capable  of  dissolving  copal  has  to  be  used,  and  since 
the  latter  is  not  soluble  in  dilute  alcohol,  and  even 
not  in  cold  rectified  95  to  g6  per  cent,  alcohol,  this 
agent  is  useless  for  remo%nn^  such  stains.  It  has  to 
be  borne  in  mind  that  fat  copal  varnishes  are  prepared 
])y  boiling  the  melted  copal   with  linseed  oil  or  by 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  73 

treating  the  copal  with  a  mixture  of  turpentine  and 
linseed  oil;  on  the  other  hand,  copal  lacquers  are  ob- 
tained by  dissolving  melted  copal  in  a  mixture  of 
alcohol  and  ether  or  chloroform,  benzol,  etc.  By  one 
of  these  solvents  of  copal,  or  a  mixture  of  them,  the 
copal  stains  may  be  removed. 

The  removal  of  stains  from  undyed  goods  is  accom- 
plished with  comparative  ease,  the  use  of  a  suitable 
solvent  sufficing  in  most  cases.  However,  in  the  treat- 
ment of  dyed  goods  it  has  to  be  taken  into  considera- 
tion whether  the  dye  is  soluble  or  insoluble  in  the  solvent 
or  other  agent  to  be  used  for  the  removal  of  the  stain. 
In  the  first  case,  i.  e.,  if  the  dye  is  soluble  in  the  cleans- 
ing agent,  special  precautions  have  to  be  observed 
in  removing  the  stain. 

In  treating  woolen  fabrics,  i.  e.,  various  kinds  of 
cloth  and  cloth-like  tissues,  furniture  damask  (also 
that  mixed  with  silk  and  cotton),  velvet-like  fabrics 
(plush),  carpets  (velvet,  tapestry,  etc.),  potash  or 
soda  lye,  concentrated  ammonia  and  hot  solutions  of 
alkaline  carbonates  cannot  be  employed  for  the  re- 
moval of  dirt  or  grease  stains. 

The  wool  fiber  is  attacked  even  by  dilute  soda  and 
potash  lyes,  and  also  by  solutions  of  alkaline  carbon- 
ates (soda  and  potash)  if  used  at  a  temperature  of 
above  122°  F.  By  cold  moderately  strong  ammonia 
and  cold  dilute  solution  of  soda  or  potash,  wool  is 
scarcely  attacked  directly,  but  it  is  attacked  by  con- 
centrated ammonia  even  if  exposed  to  its  action  for 
only  about  three  minutes.  Even  dilute  ammonia  may 
in  a  short  time  exert  an  injurious  effect  upon  the  wool 


74   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DVER. 

fiber.    HoiiTcer,  carbonate  of  ammonia  has  scarcely  any 
cfcct  on  sheep's  wool. 

On  the  other  hand,  wool  is  ver>'  resistant  to  dilute 
acids,  and  may  even  for  some  time  be  boiled  in  water 
compounded  with  acid  (acidulated  water)  without 
suffering  a  change. 

If  caustic  alkalies  have  to  be  employed  in  cleaning 
fabrics  from  dirt  and  grease  stains,  great  care  should 
be  exercised,  and  they  should  be  used  only  at  a  very 
low  temperature  and  in  weak  solutions.  Solutions  of 
alkaline  carbonates  act  less  energetically  upon  wool, 
but  should  not  be  used  in  a  t(X5  concentrated  a  state, 
ond  particularly  not  too  hot,  as  otherwise  the 
strength  of  the  woolen  fabrics  is  impaired,  and  be- 
sides they  become  rough  and  hard,  as  well  as  lose 
their  luster. 

The  luster  of  silk  fabrics  (rep,  satin,  damask,  bro- 
cade, velvet,  etc.)  is  impaired  by  the  action  of  dilute 
potash  or  soda  lye;  even  lyes  of  moderate  concentra- 
tion dissolve  silk  in  the  heat.  Silk  is  also  considerably 
attacked  by  boiling  for  a  longer  time  \Nnth  soap  solu- 
tion. Warm  dilute  acids  exert  an  injurious  effect  upon 
silk,  but  certain  dilute  acids  have  the  property  of 
increasing  the  luster  of  the  fabric  and  are  used  in  the 
so-called  scrooping  process. 

No  acid  should  come  in  contact  vrith  black  silk, 
and  water  scarcely  with  colored  silks,  because  the 
better  qualities  of  black  silk  are  even  at  the  present 
time  mostly  dyed  with  logwood,  and  colored  silks 
yield  coloring  matter  to  water.  Rubbing  or  scratch- 
ing of  any  kind  produces  dull  spots,  and  silk  fabrics 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  75 

should,  therefore,  be  cleaned  only  with  a  sponge  or 
not  too  hard  a  brush. 

As  regards  cotton  goods  (calico,  cambric,  percale 
jaconet,  rep,  dimity,  twill,  pique,  cotton  velvet,  etc.), 
it  may  be  mentioned  that  the  cotton  fiber  is  scarcely 
attacked  by  dilute  acids,  for  instance,  hydrochloric 
acid;  acetic  acid  has  no  effect  upon  cotton  whatsoever. 

Cotton  will  stand  the  action  of  cold  dilute  potash 
or  soda  lye.  Cold  concentrated  solutions  (20°  to 
30°  Be.)  of  caustic  potash  or  caustic  soda,  however, 
produce  a  chemical  change,  the  cotton  shriveling  up. 

By  linen  is  generally  understood  fabrics  consisting 
either  of  pure  linen  or  half  linen  (linen-yam  warp 
and  tow-yam  woof);  also  half -linen  and  half -cotton 
goods  in  which  the  warp  is  formed  of  linen  and  the 
woof  of  cotton.  Since  the  cleaned  flax  fiber  consists 
chiefly  of  cellulose,  yet  on  account  of  its  large  con- 
tent of  lignine  cannot  be  classed  with  the  cotton  fiber, 
linen  goods  will,  generally  speaking,  stand  the  same 
treatment  as  cotton  fabrics.  From  the  finer  qualities 
of  jute  tissues  are  made  which  serve  for  the  manu- 
facture of  curtains,  carpets,  and  furniture  coverings, 
they  being  well  adapted  for  this  purpose  by  reason 
of  their  luster.  The  jute  fiber  consists  of  cellulose 
with  bastine,  the  so-called  corchorobastose,  which  is 
readily  decomposed  by  acids  and  in  general  very 
sensitive  toward  chemicals.  This  deserves  particu- 
lar attention  in  chemically  cleaning  such  goods. 

White  goods  are  most  readily  cleaned  with  soap 
and  water.  In  difficult  cases,  chlorine  and  other  similar 
bleaching  agents  are  employed.     Soap  is  also  an  ex- 


76      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

cellent  agent  for  remoWng  stains  from  colored  fabrios. 
provided  the  dye  is  fast.  For  sh£^)ed  or  trimmed 
articles  it  is.  however,  best  not  to  use  it,  or  at  least 
ver\'  sparingly. 

Many  stains  can  be  removed  with  water.  The 
principal  requisite  is  to  use  only  distilled  or  soft  water, 
othen^-ise  a  white  ring  is  formed  around  the  stain 
which  has  been  treated,  and  this  ring  does  not  dis- 
appear. Spread  the  article  upon  the  glass  plate. 
moisten  a  brush  ^\■ith  soft  water  and  brush  the  stain 
until  it  is  no  longer  visible;  then  dry  vsnth  a  piece  of 
buckskin,  as  othens-ise  the  water  will  form  rings,  es- 
pecially with  light-colored  articles.  The  treatment  is 
rendered  more  efficient  by  adding  to  the  water  a 
little  salt  for  white  goods,  and  for  colored  ones,  a 
little  spirit.  For  silks  as  much  spirit  is  added  as  can 
be  done  without  afTecting  the  dyes.  Goods  also  dr\* 
much  faster  when  spirit  has  been  added  to  the  water. 

From  the  explanations  given  above,  general  con- 
clusions may  be  drawn  as  to  the  methods  to  be  adopted 
for  the  removal  of  stains.  To  recapitulate  what  has 
been  said,  the  operator  should  first  of  all  be  thoroughly 
conversant  \\'ith  the  properties  of  the  cleaning  agents, 
whether  in  liquid,  solid  or  pasty  form,  and  particu- 
larly as  regards  their  solvent  power  and  chemical 
action.  Due  consideration  must  also  be  given  to  the 
effect  which  the  cleaning  agents  may  under  certain 
conditions  exert  upon  dyed  goods,  and.  finally,  before 
commencing  the  operation,  it  has  to  be  considered 
whether  the  fabrics  to  be  cleaned  may  be  injured  by 
the  agent  selected. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  77 

The  object  of  dry-cleaning  garments  and  other 
articles  is  to  remove  as  much  as  possible  all  stains, 
whether  of  a  chemical  or  mechanical  nature.  Howt 
ever,  notwithstanding  this  washing  with  benzine,  the 
articles,  after  drying,  may  still  contain  certain  stains, 
partly  of  vegetable  origin,  for  instance,  from  fruit 
and  vegetable  juices,  partly  of  animal  origin,  such 
as  blood,  fat,  secretions,  etc.,  and  finally,  also  stains 
formed  in  consequence  of  a  chemical  decomposition. 
Such  stains  have  to  be  removed  from  the  garments 
and  other  articles,  and  sometimes  this  may  be  effected 
without  previous  chemical  washing. 

The  principal  spotting  agents,  including  those  intro- 
duced in  recent  times,  are  given  below.  The  chemicals 
should  be  absolutely  chemically  pure,  otherwise  it  may 
happen  that  in  removing  one  stain  a  new  one  may  be 
produced. 

Acetone.  This  chemical  is  obtained  by  distilling  cer- 
tain acetates,  citric  acid,  starch,  sugar  or  gimi.  It  is 
very  volatile  and  is  used  for  the  removal  of  enamel, 
varnish  stains  and  resins. 

Aniline  oil.  This  solvent  is  a  heavy,  poisonous  basic 
liquid  obtained  by  distilling  coal  tar.  None  but  the 
pure  article  should  be  used  for  spotting  purposes.  It 
dissolves  certain  paints  and  enamels  as  well  as  resin 
varnishes,  tar  and  pitch.  It  is  also  used  to  take  out 
dye  stains.  The  pure  article  is  colorless.  It  is  used 
at  the  commercial  strength  for  dissolving  spots  and 
stains.  Aniline  oil  produces  a  brown  stain  on  fabrics, 
which  may  be  removed  with  ether. 

Ether.     Pure  ether  is  a  colorless,  very  limpid  fluid. 


78      DRY    CI.KANKR,    SCOLRKR,    GARMKNT    DVKR. 

of  a  ixiculiar.  ixMietraling  odor,  and  at  first  a  very 
l)ungent  tiislc;  the  after-taste  is  cooling,  and  should 
not  be  bitter.  Ether  is  extraordinarily  volatile,  boils 
at  from  93°  to  95**  F.,  and  bums  with  a  bright  yellow 
flame,  yielding  water  and  carbonic  acid.  Its  vapor 
mixed  with  a  large  quantity  of  air,  if  ignited,  explodes 
with  great  violence.  In  consequence  of  this  property 
and  the  great  density  of  its  vapor,  extreme  care  should 
be  exercised  in  handling  ether,  or  manipulating  with 
it  in  the  vicinity  of  a  flame.  The  latter  should  never 
be  done  if  it  can  possibly  be  avoided,  nor  should  the 
ether  be  allowed  to  stand  in  a  warm  room.  Ether  is 
miscible  in  all  proportions  with  spirit  of  wine,  but  not 
with  water,  which  dissolves  one-tenth  its  volume.  The 
presence  of  water  and  alcohol  is  detected  by  mixing 
the  etherwith  an  equal  bulk  of  carbon  disulphide,  which 
should  result  in  a  perfectly  clear  liquid;  a  piece  of 
potassium  kept  in  the  ether  for  24  hours  becomes 
coated  with  a  yellowish  film,  and  imparts  a  yellowish 
color  to  the  liquid  if  alcohol  be  present.  Aniline- 
violet  is  insoluble  in  absolute  ether,  but  in  the  presence 
of  I  per  cent,  of  alcohol  colors  the  liquid  distinctly. 
Ether  is  an  excellent  solvent  for  fats  and  resins.  It 
is  used  at  the  commercial  strength. 

Chloroform.  This  is  less  dangerous  than  ether.  It 
is  a  limpid,  colorless,  difTusive  liquid,  not  inflam- 
mable, of  an  agreeable  ethereal  odor,  a  hot  sac- 
charine taste,  and  a  neutral  reaction.  In  a  jierfectly 
ypure  state  it  is  difficult  to  keep,  and  hence  some 
alcohol  is  added,  so  that  its  specific  gravity  varies 
between   1.488  and   1.492.  and  its  boiling-point  is  in- 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  79 

creased  to  149°  F.  When  brought  upon  the  skin 
chloroform  evaporates  rapidly,  Vv'ith  the  production  of 
a  cold  sensation. 

When  chloroform  is  shaken  in  a  perfectly  clean 
glass-stoppered  vial  with  an  equal  bulk  of  sulphuric 
acid,  no  color  should  be  imparted  to  either  liquid 
after  remaining  in  contact  for  24  hours.  Should  a 
coloration  appear,  the  chloroform  is  not  pure.  If  5 
centimeters  of  purified  chloroform  be  thoroughly  agi- 
tated with  10  cubic  centimeters  of  distilled  water, 
the  latter,  when  separated,  should  not  affect  blue 
litmus-paper  (absence  of  acids),  nor  test-solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver  (chloride),  nor  test-solution  of  iodide 
of  potassium  (free  chlorine).  It  is  used  principally  to 
remove  grease  spots.  Stains  of  this  nature  which  resist 
other  solvents  will  frequenth^  yield  to  chloroform. 
*It  is  used  at  the  commercial  strength. 

Alcohol  is  a  colorless,  very  mobile  fluid  and  pos- 
sesses a  characteristic  odor  and  taste.  When  ex- 
posed to  the  air  in  a  thin  layer,  it  evaporates  rapidly 
without  leaving  behind  a  residue.  It  is  very  inflam- 
mable and  bums  with  a  non-limiinous  blue  flame. 
It  is  miscible  with  water,  ether  and  chloroform  and 
gives  clear  mixtures  with  the  majority  of  volatile 
oils.  Pure  alcohol  dissolves  either  entirely,  or  par- 
tially, fat  oils,  fats  and  many  resins.  It  is  also  a 
solvent  for  numerous  organic  and  inorganic  compounds 
(salts,  alkaloids,  etc.). 

To  increase  the  efficacy  of  alcohol  as  a  spotting 
agent,  benzine  soap  is  dissolved  in  98  per  cent,  alco- 
hol.     The    alcohol   mav   also   be   mixed   with   ether, 


So    DRV  CLLANLR,  SCULRtR,  CiARMtNT  DVtR. 

chloroform,  etc.,  and  w-ith  the  soap  solution,  this 
mixture  being  used  for  spotting.  It  may  here  be 
mentioned  that  generally  speaking  a  mixture  of  two. 
or  even  several,  solvents  is  more  effective  than  when 
one  solvent  is  used  by  itself.  This  applies  particularly 
to  solvents  acting  in  the  same  manner. 

Acetic  ether  boils  at  170.6°  F.,  and  smells  of  cider. 
Its  specific  gravity  is  0.91.  It  mixes  readily  vsnth 
alcohol  and  ether,  and  is  useful  as  a  solvent. 

Amviotiia.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  agents 
for  the  removal  of  stains.  It  forms  a  colorless  fluid, 
with  a  strong,  penetrating  odor  and  a  pungent,  acrid 
taste.  When  highly  concentrated  it  reddens  the  skin 
and  produces  blisters.  It  imparts  a  brown  color  to 
tumeric-paper,  a  blue  color  to  red  litmus-paper,  and 
a  green  color  to  the  juice  of  violet  flowers. 

When  shaken  \N'ith  an  equal  quantity  of  lime  water, 
it  should  j-ield  a  clear,  or  at  the  utmost  sUghtly  turbid, 
fluid,  othenvise  it  has  been  in  contact  vsnth  air  and 
absorbed  carbonic  acid  from  the  latter.  Empyreu- 
matic  products  are  recognized  by  the  dark  colora- 
tion, as  well  as  by  the  odor,  which  appears  on  heating 
the  fluid  previously  slightly  acidulated  wnth  sulphuric 
acid. 

In  commerce  ammonia  is  generally  sold  according 
to  degrees  of  Baum^.  For  removing  stains  the  pro- 
duct of  18*  to  20"  B(5.  suffices. 

Ammonia  suitable  for  cleaning  purposes  should 
evaporate  at  the  temperature  of  boiling  water  with- 
out leaving  any  residue.  When  using  it  for  the  re- 
moval of  stains  it  should  first  be  ascertained  whether 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  8l 

any  of  the  colors  suffer  a  change  by  it.  It  should  be 
used  in  a  ten  per  cent,  solution  for  spotting. 

Benzine  has  been  previously  described.  Stains  of 
resins  and  grease  are  rubbed  with  benzine  soap  solu- 
tion, and  then  well  rinsed  in  benzine.  The  cleaning 
efficacy  may  also  be  increased  by  the  use  of  a  mixture 
of  benzine  and  benzol  in  place  of  benzine  by  itself, 
these  two  spotting  agents  acting  in  a  similar  manner. 

To  increase  the  efficacy  of  benzine  for  the  removal 
of  stains,  mixtures  of  benzine  with  rectified  turpen- 
tine, alcohol,  etc.,  are  prepared.  Such  mixtures 
should,  however,  only  be  used  when  perfectly  clear, 
they  being  unfit  for  the  purpose  when  turbid.  In 
clear  mixtures  benzine  soap  dissolves  completely,  and 
with  such  benzine  soap  solutions  grease  stains  of  all 
kinds,  resin  and  asphalt  stains,  etc.,  can  be  removed. 

Stains  of  greases,  gravy,  glue,  and  axle  grease,  are 
removed  by  treatment  with  warm  benzine  soap  solu- 
tion and  subsequent  rinsing  in  benzine. 

Besides  the  above-mentioned  mixtures,  carbon  tetra- 
chloride and  chloroform  are  also  used  for  the  removal 
of  stains  of  tar  and  oil  paint.  Thus,  for  instance,  tar 
stains  in  white  goods  are  easily  and  completely  re- 
moved by  a  mixture  of  chloroform  and  tetrachloride. 
The  same  effect  is  also  produced  by  first  brushing 
the  stains  with  carbon  tetrachloride,  and  then  treating 
them  with  benzine. 

Carbon  tetrachloride  has  been  previously  described. 
It  is  a  solvent  for  oils,  fats,  wax,  paraffin,  stearin, 
varnish,  lacquer,  shellac,  asphalt,  pitch,  resins,  bal- 
sams, tar,  gutta-percha,  rubber,  soda  and  potash  soaps. 


82      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

It  is  non-explosive,  and  for  use  in  spotting  it  possesses 
the  important  property  of  T\ot  attacking  the  dyes  of 
the  tissues.  It  is  used  at  full  commercial  strength  and 
leaves  no  marks  or  stains. 

In  addition  to  stains  originating  from  the  above- 
mentioned  substances,  carbon  tetrachloride  is  an  ex- 
cellent spotting  agent  for  the  removal  of  stains  caused 
by  butter,  milk,  gravy,  oil,  paint  (even  old  oil  paint 
stains).  It  is  further  suitable  for  the  removal  of  tar, 
train  oil,  and  axle  grease  stains.  It  is  equal  to  chloro- 
form as  a  solvent  for  oil  paint,  though  it  is  better  to 
use  for  this  purpose  a  mixture  of  it  and  chloroform. 
With  such  a  mixture  the  last  traces  of  oil  paint  as  well 
as  of  tar,  can  be  removed  even  from  white  goods.  In 
spotting  with  carbon  tetrachloride  no  rings  are  formed, 
as  is  the  case  with  other  spotting  agents,  and  it  is. 
therefore,  particularly  suitable  for  spotting  light- 
colored  goods.  A  mixture  esix'cially  suitable  for  dis- 
solving and  easily  removing  stains  of  red  varnish,  etc.,  is 
sometimes  used.  It  consists  of:  Carbon  tetrachloride 
and  acetic  ether,  each  i  part,  and  rectified  fusel  oil,  2 
parts. 

For  spotting,  a  clean  rag.  a  tuft  of  wadding,  or  a 
small  sponge  is  moistened  with  carbon  tetrachloride 
and  the  stain  gently  rubbed  and  eventually  dabbed 
until  it  has  disappeared.  The  rag  or  tuft  of  wadding 
should  be  frequently  renewed  and  sufficiently  moistened 
with  carbon  tetrachloride. 

If  there  is  danger  that  even  with  the  most  careful 
rubbing  the  article  might  be  injured,  fold  a  sheet  of 
white  blotting-paper  together  about  four  times,  soak 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  83 

it  with  carbon  tetrachloride,  place  the  stained  article 
upon  it,  and  cover  the  stain  with  the  same  thicknesses 
of  blotting-paper.  Then  press  firmly,  best  with  a  cold 
smoothing  iron,  the  upper  layer  of  paper  upon  the 
lower,  whereby  the  stain  between  the  two  layers  of 
paper  is  dissolved  and  its  substance  absorbed  by  the  sol- 
vent. Repeat  the  operation  until  the  stain  has  entirely 
disappeared.  To  moisten  the  stain  with  carbon  tetra- 
chloride and  then  rubbing  dry  with  a  rag  is  a  wrong 
way  of  spotting,  since  the  substance  already  dissolved 
is  thereby  spread  out  to  a  greater  extent  and  a  larger 
stained  place  with  a  plainly  perceptible  edge  is  formed. 

Acetic  acid.  This  increases  the  efficacy  of  alco- 
hol, benzine  and  ether  in  many  cases. 

Acetic  acid  occurs  in  commerce  in  various  degrees 
of  purity  and  strength.  For  our  purposes  chem- 
ically pure  acid  can  only  be  taken  into  consideration, 
and  it  should  especially  be  free  from  empyreumatic 
substances.  The  degree  of  acidity  is  of  minor  con- 
sideration, since  too  strong  an  acid  can  be  readily 
reduced  by  the  addition  of  water. 

Acetic  acid  is  a  colorless  fluid  of  a  peculiar  pungent 
taste,  and  when  applied  to  the  human  skin  causes 
redness  and  swelling,  followed  by  paleness  of  the  part. 
Prolonged  application  is  followed  by  vesication  and 
desquamation  of  the  cuticle.  At  the  ordinary  temp- 
erature acetic  acid  evaporates  perceptibly;  it  boils  at 
244.4°  F-  Acetic  acid  neutralized  with  pure  carbonate 
of  soda  and  diluted  with  water  should  not  be  changed 
by  potassium  permanganate  solution. 

Acetic  acid  is  used,  diluted  with  water,  for  remov- 


84     DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

ing  stains  caused  by  alkalies  and  for  livening  up 
colors  injured  by  street  dust,  especially  on  ladies' 
skirts.  The  goods  are  aftei^-ards  rinsed  wnth  clean 
water.  Care  must  always  be  exercised  in  using  acetic 
acid  on  dyed  goods,  in  which  case  a  5  per  cent,  solution 
should  be  used. 

Fusel  oil.  This  is  an  excellent  solvent  for  varnishes, 
oil-colors  and  resins.  The  smell  of  it  is  got  rid  of  by 
airing  the  cleaned  articles. 

Glycerin  is  a  syrupy  liquid  ha\nng  the  specific 
gravity  1.28  at  59"  F.  It  is  transparent,  colorless, 
inodorous,  very  sweet,  and  somewhat  warm  to  the 
taste,  oily  to  the  touch,  without  action  upon  litmus, 
and  soluble  in  all  proportions  in  water  and  alcohol; 
also  in  spirit  of  ether,  but  not  in  ether,  chloroform, 
benzol,  fixed  oils,  or  volatile  oils. 

Glycerin  is  a  solvent  for  alkalies,  coffee,  chocolate, 
dye-stuffs,  and  other  bodies.  It  also  serves  for  finishing 
fine  fabrics,  etc.  It  is  not  inflammable  and  is  used  at 
the  commercial  strength. 

Borax.  Borax  forms  large,  colorless,  monoclinic 
prisms,  which  are  transparent,  inodorous,  have  a  mild, 
sweetish,  cooling,  and  afterwards  alkaline,  taste,  and 
in  dry  air  effloresce  superficially  and  become  opaque. 
It  is  soluble  in  12  to  15  parts  of  cold,  and  in  2  parts 
of  boiling  water,  and  in  4  to  5  parts  of  glycerin,  but 
insoluble  in  alcohol.  The  aqueous  solution  has  a 
slightly  alkaline  taste,  colors  red  litmus-paper  blue, 
and  the  juice  of  \*iolct  flowers  green. 

Borax  is  ver>*  frequently  ailulterated  with  Glauber's 
salt   ^sodium  sulphate),   rock-salt   (sodium   chloride). 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  85 

and  potassium  chloride.  If,  in  a  dilute  and  heated 
solution  strongly  acidulated  with  hydrochloric  acid, 
a  heavy  precipitate  is  formed  by  barium  chloride 
solution,  Glauber's  salt  may  be  supposed  to  be  present. 
An  admixture  of  rock-salt  is  recognized  by  the  white 
flakes  which  are  formed  in  an  aqueous  solution  acidu- 
lated with  nitric  acid,  by  the  addition  of  nitrate  of 
silver.  Potassium  chloride  is  recognized  in  the  solution 
by  the  formation  of  a  white  crystalline  precipitate 
on  adding  a  large  quantity  of  tartaric  acid.  The 
presence  of  carbonate  of  soda  is  shown  by  the  effer- 
vescence of  the  solution  on  adding  hydrochloric  acid. 

Borax  is  used  for  fixing  mineral  dye-stuffs,  as  an 
addition  to  starch,  and  as  a  substitute  for  alkalies 
(potash,  soda). 

Hyposulphite  of  sodium  occurs  in  commerce  in  large, 
transparent,  monoclinic  prisms  or  plates,  which  have 
the  specific  gravity  1.74,  are  neutral  or  faintly  alka- 
line, are  inodorous,  and  have  a  cooling,  bitter,  slightly 
alkaHne,  and  sulphurous  taste.  It  is  permanent  in  the 
air,  soluble  at  a  medium  temperature  in  less  than  an 
equal  quantity  of  water,  but  insoluble  in  spirits  of 
wine.  It  is  used  in  combination  with  acetic  acid, 
which  liberates  the  active  sodium  hydrosulphate. 

It  is  used  as  a  bleaching  agent,  and  also  as  a  de- 
chlorizing  agent  for  fabrics  bleached  with  chlorine. 
When  used  to  strip  colors  the  goods  to  be  treated 
should  be  boiled  until  the  desired  degree  of  whiteness 
is  obtained. 

Stannous  chloride,  or  tin  salt,  occurs  in  commerce 
in  a  solid  form  as  well  as  in  solution.     In  the  solid 


86      DRV    Cl.FANKR,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYKR. 

form  it  forms  white,  columnar  cn'stals  which  are 
readily  soluble  in  water,  and  have  an  acrid,  metallic 
taste.  It  being  poisonous  when  taken  internally,  care 
should  be  used  in  handing  it.  The  solution  of  tin- 
salt  in  water  always  shows  a  more  or  less  milky 
turbidity. 

Chloride  of  lime  is  a  white  or  whitish  powder  or  in 
friable  lumps,  dry  or  but  slightly  damp,  with  a  feeble 
odor  of  chlorine,  and  a  disagreeable  bitter  and  saline 
taste.  Under  certain  circtmistanccs  it  may  undergo 
decomposition  on  keeping,  either  with  the  evolution 
of  oxygen,  or  by  conversion  into  a  mixture  of  chloride 
and  chlorate  of  calcium.  On  exposure  to  the  air  it 
absorbs  and  combines  with  carbonic  acid  and  becomes 
moist.  It  has  an  alkaline  reaction,  but  finally  bleaches 
test-paper.  When  rubbed  with  water  it  is  almost 
entirely  dissolved,  the  lime  remaining  behind.  This 
forms  the  chloride  of  lime  solution  which  sers'es  as  a 
basis  for  the  bleaching  and  decolorizing  process,  and 
for  the  preparation  of  the  various  bleaching  fluids. 

Thus  the  well-kno\Mi  eau  dc  Javelle  is  obtained  by 
mixing  a  filtered  solution  of  i  i)art  of  chloride  of  lime 
in  1 2  parts  water  with  a  solution  of  potassium  carbonate 
(potash)  (i  part  potash  in  4  parts  water).  The  mix- 
ture is  allowed  to  settle  and  is  filtered. 

Chloride  of  lime  solution  in  the  same  manner  de- 
composed by  alum  or  aluminium  suljihate  gives 
Wilson's  bleaching  fluid;  and  by  sulphate  of  mag- 
nesium. Ramsey's  or  Gronvcllc's  bleachitiji  fluid.  These 
bleaching-fluids  are  colorless,  or  of  a  faintly  yellowish 
color.    They  are  extensively  used  for  bleaching  textile 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  87 

fibers,  fabrics,   and  wash-clothes,   and  serve  also  for 
removing  fruit  and  red-wine  stains  from  the  latter. 

A  too  vigorous  action  of  the  chlorine  upon  the  textile 
fiber  is  counteracted  by  subsequent'  immersion  of  the 
fabric  in  solution  of  sodium  hyposulphite  or  ammonia. 
Chloride  of  lime  should  be  used  only  on  vegetable 
fibers.  It  is  seldom  if  ever  used  in  the  modem  cleaning 
plant,  the  several  peroxides  being  much  better  and 
safer  to  use. 

Chlorine-water.  This  is  less  frequently  used  than 
bleaching-fluid.  It  forms  a  clear,  greenish-yellow 
liquid,  possessing  the  suffocating  odor  and  acrid,  irri- 
tating taste  of  chlorine.  It  evaporates  without  leav- 
ing any  residue,  but  separates  crystals  of  chlorine 
hydrate  when  cooled  to  the  freezing-point  of  water. 

Tartaric  acid  crystallizes  in  colorless,  oblique,  rhom- 
bic prisms  or  tables,  which  are  inodorous  and  have  a 
strongly  acid  and  disagreeable  taste.  They  have  the 
specific  gravity  1.764,  dissolve  at  62.6°  F.  in  0.6  part 
of  water,  2  parts  of  85  per  cent,  alcohol,  3.6  parts  of 
absolute  alcohol,  23  parts  of  ether,  and  250  parts  of 
absolute  ether;  they  are  more  soluble  in  the  same 
liquids  at  the  boiling  temperature,  and  are  likewise 
soluble  in  methyl  alcohol  and  in  glycerin,  but  insoluble 
in  chloroform  and  benzine.  It  is  a  complete  substi- 
tute for  the  more  expensive — 

Citric  acid,  with  which  it  is  frequently  mixed,  and 
in  many  cases  even  sold  as  such.  Hence,  whenever 
citric  acid  is  prescribed  tartaric  acid  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  it. 

Oxalic    acid    forms    flat,    oblique,    rhombic    prisms, 


SS   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOLRtR,  GARMENT  DYER. 

which  are  colorless,  transparent,  not  deliquescent, 
inodorous,  of  a  strongly  acid  taste  and  reaction,  and 
soluble  in  about  8  parts  of  water  at  the  ordinary  tem- 
perature, and  in  nearly  all  proixirlions  of  boiling  water. 
They  dissolve  in  2J/2  parts  of  cold  and  1.8  parts  of 
boiling,  strong  alcohol,  and  are  but  slightly  soluble  in 
ether.  Oxalic  acid  is  very  poisonous.  It  is  rather  cheap, 
and  as  in  some  cases  it  ser\'es  as  a  complete  substitute 
for  tartaric  and  citric  acids,  it  is  very  frequently  used. 
Its  principal  uses  in  spotting  are  confined  to  the  re- 
moval of  rust  and  ink  stains.  For  this  jmrpose  a 
warm,  five  per  cent,  solution  is  applied  to  the  portion 
to  be  treated  and  allowed  to  stand  for  5  minutes,  after 
which  time  it  is  rinsed  out  with  warm  water. 

Hydrochloric  acid.  This  wcll-kno\vn  acid  should  be 
entirely  free  from  iron,  and.  hence,  it  should  not  be 
colored  red  by  sulphocyanide  of  potassium.  Its  uses 
in  spotting  are  very  limited  and  are  confined  to  the 
removal  of  iron  stains.  A  very  weak  solution  should 
be  used  and  well  rinsed  from  the  goods  when  the  stain 
has  been  removed. 

\'ariotts  spotting  and  washi)i(^  agents.  Some  stains 
which  have  not  been  dissolved  by  the  benzine  in  dry 
cleaning  are  in  most  cases  readily  removed  by  carefully 
applying  the  following  scouring  water: 

Dissolve  in  5  quarts  of  distilled  water  2^  ozs.  of 
common  salt  and  add  to  the  .solution,  8  ozs.  90  ix;r 
cent,  alcohol  and  i^i  ozs.  ether.  Shake  the  mixture 
thoroughly.  It  is  used  as  follows:  Moisten  a  clean 
rag  or  piece  of  soft  leather  with  the  mixture  and  try 
to  remove  the  stain  by  rubbing  very  carefully.     Silk 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  89 

or  goods  with  delicate  colors  has  to  be  manipulated 
with  special  care,  as  by  rubbing  too  vigorously  the 
colors  are  injured  and  a  whitish  shine  is  produced 
which  can  only  be  removed  by  re-dyeing.  This  rule 
not  only  applies  to  the  above-mentioned  scouring 
water,  but  to  the  removal  of  stains  in  general.  The 
lighter  and  the  more  skilled  the  hand  of  the  operator 
is,  the  better  for  the  article  to  be  cleaned. 

An  excellent  soap  for  the  removal  of  wine  and 
vinegar  stains  is  prepared  by  mixing  16  parts  of 
ordinary  soap  with  2  parts  turpentine  and  i  part 
ammonia. 

Liquid  spotting  soap  is  prepared  by  dissolving,  shaking 
frequently,  shavings  of  a  good  quality  of  grain  soap 
in  ammonia  and  diluting  the  solution  with  ammonia 
to  the  consistency  of  syrup.  The  stained  places  are 
covered  with  the  mixture  and  washed  in  lukewarm 
water. 

The  following  composition  can  also  be  used  to  ad- 
vantage in  spotting:  Soft  soap,  i  oz.;  calcined  soda, 
}4  oz.;  borax,  }4  oz.;  ammonia,  of  specific  gravity 
0.910;  ether  and  methyl  alcohol,  each  60  cubic  cen- 
timeters; and  water,  1820  cubic  centimeters. 

Ammonia  soap  is  very  useful  for  the  removal  of 
grease  stains.  It  is  prepared  as  follows:  Mix  in  the 
order  given,  shaking  frequently,  100  cubic  centimeters 
oleic  acid;  50  cubic  centimeters  ether;  50  cubic  centi- 
meters chlorofonn;  500  cubic  centimeters  benzine, 
and  100  cubic  centimeters  spirit  of  ammonia.  If 
a  white  emulsion  is  preferred,  substitute  for  the  spirit 
of  ammonia  double  the  quantity  of  water. 


90   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

For  the  removal  from  u*ash-clothes  of  brovs-n  and 
black  stains  due  to  hair-dye,  medicines,  marking- 
ink,  indelible  pencil  marks,  etc.,  a  solution  of  the  very 
poisonous  potassium  cyanide  in  luke^'arm  distilled 
water  is  used.  Great  care  has  to  be  exercised  in  hand- 
ling it.  Its  strength  for  spotting  should  be  confined  to 
a  ID  per  cent,  solution. 

For  the  removal  of  stains  of  limar  caustic  or  nitrate 
of  silver,  a  mixture  of  chloride  of  ammoniiun  and  cor- 
rosive sublimate,  each  l^  oz.  in  4  ozs.  of  water.  A 
nuxture  of  io>^  ozs.  of  Glauber's  salt,  5  ozs.  of  chloride 
of  lime  and  10  ozs.  of  water  can  also  be  recommended. 

Spotting  fluids.  The  follo\\'ing  compositions  may 
be  mentionea: 

a.  Dissolve,  shaking  frequently.  30  parts  castile  soap 
in  a  mixture  of  30  parts  glycerin.  7  parts  strong  solu- 
tion of  ammonia,  30  parts  ether,  and  300  parts  water. 

For  use  place  a  cloth  tmder  the  place  to  be  cleaned, 
then  spread  the  fluid  by  means  of  a  sponge  over  the 
stain,  and  treat  the  latter  with  the  fluid  by  careful 
rubbing  for  a  few  seconds.    Finally  wash  v^nth  water. 

h.  Tincture  of  soap  {spiritus  saponatus)  100  parts; 
10  per  cent,  ammonia.  50  parts;  acetic  ether,  15  parts. 

This  mLxture  is  suitable  for  oil  and  grease  stains. 
Soak  the  stains  with  the  fluid  and  remove  them  by 
means  of  a  woolen  rag. 

c.  Benzine,  200  parts;  ether.  40  parts;  acetic  ether. 
30  parts;  turpentine,  60  parts. 

d.  Dissolve  10  parts  of  saponine  in  500  parts  dis- 
tilled water,  and  nux  the  solution  with  20  parts  of 
ammonia  of  0.960  specific  gra\-ity. 


REMOVAL*.  OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING,  91 

This  fluid  is  especially  suitable  for  the  removal  of 
grease,  mildew,  and  dust  stains. 

e.  Carbon  tetrachloride,  650  parts;  acetic  ether,  100 
parts;  denatured  alcohol,  100  parts;  alkali  oleate 
soluble  in  benzine,  8  parts;  benzine,  142  parts. 

This  spotting  fluid  injures  neither  the  fabric  nor 
the  color,  acts  with  great  ease  and  rapidity,  evolves 
no  odor,  disappears  from  the  fabric  without  leaving 
a  trace,  and  is  neither  poisonous  nor  inflammable. 
By  its  use  most  all  kinds  of  stains,  for  instance,  such 
as  are  caused  by  gravies,  fats,  axle-grease,  petroleum, 
varnish,  tar,  wax,  oil-paint,  etc.,  can  be  removed. 
The  stains  (on  wool,  silk,  cotton,  lace,  carpets,  felt, 
furs,  etc.).  are  moistened  with  the  spotting  fluid, 
lightly  brushed,  and  finally  rubbed  dry  with  a  clean 
cotton  cloth. 

/.  Strong  ammonia,  31  parts;  tincture  of  potash 
soap,  93  parts;  soda,  7.8  parts;  borax,  7.8  parts;  ether, 
3 1  parts ;  alcohol,  3 1  parts ;  and  enough  water  to  make 
the  whole  up  to  950  parts. 

Dissolve  the  salts  in  a  portion  of  the  water,  then 
add  the  other  constituents,  and  finally  the  ether  and 
alcohol.  This  preparation  is  said  to  remove  stains 
from  all  kinds  of  woolens,  imparts  gloss  to  black 
cloth,  and  also  to  be  suitable  for  cleaning  carpets. 

Spotting  fluids  for  leather  and  tissues,  a.  Ether,  i 
part;  turpentine,  4  parts. 

6.  Camphor,  8  parts;  alcohol,  i  part;  ether,  i  part. 

c.  For  coarse  tissues.  Mix  i  part  of  ether  with  9 
parts  of  turpentine. 

Spotting  fluid  for  all  kinds  of  stains,  the  derivation 


92   URV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DVl  R. 

oj  which  cannot  he  ascertained.  Dissolve  8  parts  of 
Castile  soap  in  30  parts  alcohol,  and  add  i  part  tur- 
pentine and  the  yolks  of  4  eggs. 

Or:  Heat  to  the  boiling-point  20  parts  ox-gall.  40 
parts  borax,  500  parts  alcohol,  and  200  parts  ammonia. 
Then  add  30  parts  glycerin  and  the  yolks  of  2  eggs. 

English  spotting  fluid  for  the  removal  of  stains  of 
resin,  acid,  wax,  tar  and  grease,  consists  of  100  parts 
by  weight  of  95  jxt  cent,  alcohol.  35  of  ammonia  of 
specific  gravity  0.875,  and  15  of  benzine.  Bring  the 
weighed  benzine  into  a  glass  vessel,  add  the  alcohol, 
shake  thoroughly,  and  finally  add  the  ammonia. 

Schwemmer' s  spotting  fluid.  This  is  a  patented  article. 
The  solution  of  ammonia  in  alcohol  and  ether  frequently 
used  for  the  removal  of  stains  is  so  mixed  with  turjx^n- 
tine  that,  on  shaking,  the  fluids  fonn  an  emulsion, 
which  remains  constant  during  the  operation  of  spot- 
ting. A  suitable  mixture  consists  of  4  ozs.  turpentine. 
4  ozs.  of  ammonia,  2  ozs.  alcohol,  2  ozs.  ether,  and  2 
ozs.  acetic  ether. 

Spotting  paste.  An  excellent  article  is  prepared  as 
follows:  First  mix  2  parts  borax  with  3  parts  ox-gall, 
then  mix  with  it  carefully  20  parts  of  tallow  soap  in  the 
form  of  a  fine  powder,  and  finally  i  part  oleic  acid. 

Spotting  pencils,  a.  Soap  powder  70  parts;  jiul- 
verized  borax,  10;  carbonate  of  magnesia,  25;  fresh 
ox-gall,  20;  soft  soap,  10.  Dis-solve  the  borax  in  the 
ox-gall  assisting  solution  by  rubbing,  then  mix  with 
the  solution,  in  very  small  i)ortions  at  a  time,  the 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  gradually  add  the  soap  powder 
and  sufficient  soft  soap  to  obtain  a  mass  of  a  doughy 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  93 

consistency.  Scatter  magnesia  powder  upon  a  smooth 
board,  roll  the  mass  out  into  long  sticks  and  cut  up 
the  latter  into  suitable  size. 

b.  Mix  30  parts  of  quillaia  extract  and  30  parts  of 
borax  and  make  the  mixture  into  a  stiff  mass  with 
120  parts  of  fresh  ox-gall  and  about  450  parts  of  soap 
powder.  •  Form  the  mass  into  sticks. 

Tetrapol  is  an  oily  liquid  of  a  yellowish  color,  a 
peculiar  odor  resembling  that  of  radish,  and  is  mis- 
cible  in  every  proportion  in  water.  It  is  a  patented 
product,  and  has  proved  to  be  an  excellent  agent  for 
cleaning  and  degreasing  woolen  yarn  or  other  materials 
contaminated  by  grease.  It  has  an  alkaline  reaction, 
and  its  mixture  with  water  resembles  soap-lye.  Tetra- 
pol may  be  used  wherever  water  is  employed  in  chemical 
cleaning.  It  is  non-inflammable  and  is  generally  used 
cold,  or  at  the  utmost  at  a  temperature  of  up  to  122°  F. ; 
a  higher  temperature  than  this  should  be  avoided. 

According  to  an  analysis  by  Dr.  Bein,  of  Berlin, 
Tetrapol  consists  of: 

Mark 

A.  F. 

Per  cent.     Per  cent. 

Total  content  of  fatty  acid 18.5  25 .2 

Carbon  tetrachloride 12.4  15-7 

Free  alkali not  traceable 

Chlorine  and  kindred  substances "  " 

Total  content  of  soap 31.0  39-0 

Tetrapol  is  used  either  in  aqueous  solution  of  vary- 
ing concentration— a  part  Tetrapol  and  2  to  8  parts 
distilled,  or  at  least  soft,  water — or  by  itself  as  it  is 
found  in  commerce.     For  instance,  for  the  removal 


94      HKV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

of  oil-paini  stains  cover  them  vsnth  a  concentrated 
Tetrapol  solution — %  to  i  oz.  Tetrapol  in  i  quart 
distilled  water — let  the  solution  act  for  one  hour  with- 
out rubbing,  then  rub  the  stained  places  with  the 
fingers,  remove  the  solution  from  the  article  by  brush- 
ing, and  finally  brush  with  soft  water.  Axle  grease 
stains  may  be  removed  in  the  same  manner. 

In  the  case  of  a.\le  grease  stains  it  sometimes  hap>- 
pens  that  a  brown  stain  will  remain  after  the  grease 
has  been  dissolved.  This  brown  stain  is  caused  by 
iron,  and  may  be  removed  with  a  weak  solution  of 
oxalic  acid. 

0:7  a)id  grease  stains,  particularly  those  caused  by 
mineral  and  lubricating  oils,  are  removed  by  rubbing 
^\'ith  Tetrapol;  then  follow  with  lukewarm  water,  and 
after  a  good  lather  has  been  produced,  rinse  with 
warm  water  until  complete  removal  of  the  Tetrapol, 
which  will  carry  away  with  it  the  oil,  dirt,  etc.,  com- 
posing the  stain.  Blood  stains  are  removed  in  the 
same  manner.  For  the  same  purpose  Tetrapol  solu- 
tion— I  part  Tetraix)l  with  4  parts  water — may  be 
used.  Should  the  stains  not  disappear  after  this  treat- 
ment, repeat  the  process. 

In  wet  washing  Tetrapol  scr\-es  as  a  substitute  for 
soap.  It  has  the  advantage  of  not  forming  a  lime 
soap  and  is  not  decomposed  by  acids,  as  ordinary 
soaps  are.  It  imparts  no  odor  to  the  articles  treated 
\N-ith  it. 

WTiile  the  above  mixtures  will  be  of  serxnce  to  the 
man  who  does  not  thoroughly  understand  the  work,  and 
who,  therefore,  must  proceed  in  a  more  or  less  hap- 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  95 

hazard  manner,  it  is  very  doubtful  if  it  is  good  practice 
to  use  them.  There  is  no  mixture  or  compound  that 
will  remove  all  kinds  of  spots  and  stains  from  a  garment, 
and  the  one  who  places  his  reliance  in  them  is  very  sure 
to  meet  with  difficulties  from  time  to  time.  The  man 
who  has  mastered  the  art  of  spotting — and  it  can  be 
mastered^  only  through  experience — finds  that  he  is 
able  to  get  better  results  with  less  loss  of  time,  and  with 
less  trouble,  when  he  places  his  reliance  on  straight 
chemicals. 

In  spotting,  immediate  results  cannot  always  be 
expected.  Some  spots  and  stains  are  very  difficult 
to  remove,  and  experience  has  demonstrated  that  fewer 
garments  will  be  damaged  and  better  results  secured 
when  mild  solutions  of  the  solvents  are  used  rather 
than  strong  ones.  The  first  rule  to  be  observed  is 
cleanliness.  This  applies  to  the  hands  of  the  operator, 
as  well  as  to  the  brushes,  table,  cloths,  tools,  water 
and  chemicals.  Cleaning  work  cannot  be  done  with 
dirty  tools  and  in  dirty  surroundings.  The  work  should 
be  done  in  a  well-lighted  portion  of  the  plant. 

To  successfully  remove  spots  and  stains  from  white 
silk  and  wool  goods  is  not  a  difficult  matter,  but  when 
spotting  light  and  fashionably  colored  silks  the  task 
is  not  so  easy,  as  in  this  case  great  care  must  be  exer- 
cised to  damage  neither  the  color  of  the  fabric  nor  the 
luster.  On  this  class  of  goods  it  is  always  well  to 
commence  the  spotting  operation  with  clean,  distilled 
water.  Persuasion  and  a  light  hand  must  be  used 
rather  than  force.  Acids  and  ammonia  must  be  used 
with  extreme  care.     Should  a  spotting  mark  remain 


96      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

after  the  spot  has  been  removed,  either  the  entire 
garment  must  be  sponged  or  the  color  restored  by 
touching  the  spot  with  a  dye  corresponding  in  color 
to  the  color  of  the  fabric.  The  spotting  of  dark- 
colored  silk  is  not  a  difficult  matter,  as  the  ver>'  large 
majority  of  the  spots  on  this  class  of  goods  may  be 
removed  ^^•ith  clear,  distilled  water,  and  there  is  little 
if  any  danger  of  leaving  water  marks. 

All  chemicals  \ised  for  spotting  purposes  should  be 
kept  in  as  clean  and  pure  a  condition  as  possible.  A 
pure  organic  compound  will  evaporate  from  the  goods 
much  more  readily  than  one  that  is  contaminated 
with  foreign  matter.  Thus  b>'  keeping  his  chemicals 
pure  and  clean  the  spotter  is  enabled  to  avoid  making 
spotting  rings,  and  his  work  is  easier. 

BkDtchissitie  is  a  detergent  manufactured  by  Boet- 
tiger,  Lille,  France. 

Blaftclussitic  Xo.  i  is  composed  as  follox^-s:  Caustic 
soda,  8  parts;  alcohol,  29;  olein.  24;  glycerin  or  vase- 
line, 2;  turpentine,  4;  ultramarine,  2.  Of  this  com- 
position 2  ozs.  are  to  be  used  with  22  gallons  of  water. 
It  may  be  employed  for  washing  the  finest  silk  fabrics, 
as  well  as  ordinan,'  clothes. 

Blatichissine  No.  2  is  composed  of:  Ammonia,  64 
parts;  olein,  5;  turpentine,  25;  benzine.  6.  For  wash- 
ing fine  articles — laces,  etc. — in  the  washing  machine, 
add  3>^  ozs.  of  this  composition  to  22  gallons  of  water. 

Hexol.  This  is  a  volatile  yellow  liquid  with  a  {pecu- 
liar but  not  disagreeable  odor,  and  forms  a  concen- 
trated detergent,  which  may  be  used  as  such,  or  diluted 
with  about  2  voliunes  of  benzine  or  95  to  96  per  cent. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  97 

alcohol,  or  a  mixture  of  both.  Shaken  up  with  5  parts 
of  water,  it  gives  a  milky  liquid,  suitable  for  removing 
stains  on  white  articles  and  the  like. 

In  chemical  cleaning  it  may  replace  fusel  oil,  chloro- 
form, acetic  ether,  etc.,  and  its  application  is  followed 
by  treatment  with  benzine,  to  eliminate  all  final  traces 
of  stain.  It  readily  takes  out  stains  arising  from  pitch, 
oil,  tar,  etc.,  and  in  the  concentrated  form  is  useful 
in  removing  old  or  obstinate  stains  caused  by  paint 
or  tar. 

Cleaning  dust-coats.  When  cleaning  garments  of  this 
kind  it  is  best  to  go  over  them  entirely,  as  in  partially 
treating  them  rings  are  readily  formed.  Hems  and 
seams,  as  well  as  lined  cuffs  and  collars,  should  be 
treated  last,  slightly  moist.  As  scouring  water  use  a 
mixtiire  of  water,  6  parts;  ether,  6  parts,  and  acetic 
acid,  I  part. 

In  case  stains  of  oil,  paint  or  other  difficult  stains 
are  found,  the  wet  article  is  best  treated  with  benzine, 
then  using  immediately  the  above-mentioned  scouring 
water,  and  finally  drying  thoroughly  with  a  piece  of 
buckskin. 

Morning  dresses,  rain-coats,  etc.,  which,  as  a  rule, 
are  only  soiled  around  the  bottoms,  are  treated  by 
moistening  the  stained  portions  with  water  acidulated 
with  acetic  acid,  or  if  the  color  will  stand  it,  with 
soap  water.     Then  rinse,  scour,  rinse  and  extract. 

Stains  in  velvet  and  plush  are  removed  with  ether 
and  water,  brushing  against  the  grain,  and  when  dry 
with  the  grain.  For  dark  and  black  velvet,  alcohol 
is  very  suitable. 


98      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

In  remoNnng  stains  from  lined  garments  it  is  ad- 
Nnsable  to  open,  if  possible,  a  scam,  and  push  a  small 
board  covered  with  linen  between  lining  and  goods 
to  prevent  the  former  from  becoming  wet. 

In  case  some  stains  cannot  be  completely  removed 
from  white  garments,  try  to  hide  them  as  much  as 
possible  by  covering  them  \s-ith  a  white  substance, 
such  as  starch,  gypsum,  magnesia,  or  talcimi,  or  it 
may  be  bleached  out  with  peroxide  or  chloride  of  lime. 

The  following  spotting  fluid  may  be  advantageously 
used  for  silk:  Distilled  water,  i  quart;  ether,  i  quart; 
acetic  acid,  }  g  quart.  For  one-color,  acid-dyed  woolen 
stuffs  use  only  distilled  water  acidulated  with  acetic 
acid;  for  one-color  woolen  stufTs  dyed  v^nth  wood-dyes, 
distilled  water  \N-ith  an  addition  of  ammonia  and  ether; 
for  one-color  and  colored  half-wool  and  cotton  goods, 
distilled  water  v^nth  an  addition  of  ether;  for  colored 
woolen  and  half -wool  stuflFs.  distilled  water  only;  for 
black  and  white  half-wool  stuffs,  as  well  as  for  striped 
and  checkered,  a  scouring  water  consisting  of  distilled 
water,  i  quart;  ether,  i  pint,  and  475  ozs.  common 
salt. 

In  remo\'ing  stains  the  operations  must  not  be 
carried  on  too  wet,  and  nothing  but  the  stain  to  be 
removed  should  be  treated.  The  spot  should  be  dried 
as  quickly  as  possible  to  prevent  the  formation  of 
rings,  which  is  frequently  the  case  in  working  with 
waten.'  substances.  Light-colored  silk  goods  arc  most 
difficult  to  manipulate,  as  rings  are  likely  to  form  and 
the  places  to  be  treated  readily  lose  luster.  In  this 
case  attempts  should  be  made  to  dissolve  the  stain  or 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  99 

remove  it  by  working  from  the  wrong  side  of  the  goods. . 
This  refers  to  the  treatment  with  water;  benzine  and 
ethereal  substances  may  be  more  energetically  applied. 

As  auxiliary  agents  for  the  rapid  absorption  of 
water,  hydroscopic  substances  are  used,  plaster  of 
Paris  and  talcimi  powder  being  particularly  suitable 
for  the  purpose.  When  a  stain  has  been  removed, 
scatter,  by  means  of  a  fine  sieve,  plaster  of  Paris  over 
the  spot;  the  layer  must  be  sufficiently  deep  to  absorb 
all  the  water.  Then  hang  the  article  up,  and  when  dry 
remove  the  plaster  of  Paris  by  rubbing  and  brushing. 
This  process  is,  however,  suitable  only  for  light-colored 
goods.  For  dark-colored  stuffs  terre  de  Sauniere  or 
French  earth  is  used,  if  a  piece  of  buckskin  does  not 
suffice  for  the  absorption  of  the  water. 

The  rings  formed  in  removing  stains  in  raw  silk 
garments,  as  well  as  water  and  rain  stains,  are  got 
rid  of  by  steaming  or  by  sponging  the  entire  garment. 

The  water  ring  may  also  be  prevented  and  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  saved  by  having  a  moderately  heated 
puff  iron  near  the  spotting-table.  As  soon  as  the  spot 
has  been  removed  with  water,  and  the  superfluous 
water  has  been  sopped  up  with  a  sponge  or  white 
blotting-paper,  place  the  wet  part  over  the  heated  puff 
iron  and  iron  the  edges  of  the  water  mark. 

Another  effective  method  which  will  prevent  water 
marks  or  rings  is  the  spraying  bottle.  The  bottle 
is  filled  with  an  inch  of  distilled  water,  and  a  sectional 
glass  blowpipe  attached  to  the  neck.  As  soon  as  the 
spot  has  been  eradicated,  take  the  bottle  and  blow 
into  the  glass  tube,  in  this  way  sending  a  fine  spra\' 


lOO   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

of  water  over  the  water  ring,  then  take  a  clean  white 
rag  and  rub  the  spray  over  the  spot  until  the  ring  has 
disappeared,  or,  in  other  words,  even  up  the  edges  of 
the  ring. 

This  method  is  ver>'  effective  on  pongees,  though 
most  of  the  spotters  either  use  the  puff  iron  or  a 
regular  iron  and  iron  the  wet  edges  at  once.  A  pongee 
garment  should  never  be  allowed  to  dry,  as  this  would 
necessitate  the  sponging  of  the  whole  garment,  and 
frequently  create  new  spots  on  account  of  the  irregu- 
larity of  the  weft.  There  are  quite  a  number  of  so- 
called  pongees.  These  are  mostly  imitations,  and  it 
is  nearly  impossible  to  remo\-e  any  spot  from  them 
without  remo\-ing  the  color  at  the  same  time.  \\'ater 
seems  to  be  the  greatest  enemy  of  these  garments, 
and  it  is  ad\'isable  always  to  have  handy  a  bottle  of 
acetic  acid,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  noticed  that  the  color 
is  disappearing,  daub  a  little  diluted  acid  on  the  spot. 
The  acetic  acid  should  be  diluted  \snth  one-third  of 
water. 

Color  or  dye  spots,  principally  such  as  have  run  off 
from  other  garments,  ribbons  or  lunbrella  drippings 
cannot  be  removed  from  imitation  pongees  without 
destronng  the  original  color,  and  it  is  not  adxnsable 
to  touch  the  spots  except  when  the  customer  is  wiling 
to  accept  the  responsibility. 

Dust  stains  are  best  removed  by  thorough  beating 
and  brushing,  or  by  running  the  garment  in  a  tumbler 
or  dust-wheel.  Old  dried-in  stains  in  fabrics  of  wool, 
silk,  satin,  etc.,  are  brushed  over  with  a  little  yolk 
of  egg  mixed  with  alcohol,  which  is  allowed  to  dr>'  and 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING,  lOl 

then  scraped  off.    Any  adhering  yolk  of  egg  is  finally 
removed  by  means  of  a  clean  rag  and  warm  water. 

Mud  stains  should  be  allowed  to  get  perfectly  dry 
before  trying  to  remove  them,  and  usually  a  good 
brushing  will  be  all  that  is  required.  If,  however,  the 
stain  remains,  it  can  be  easily  and  quickly  removed  by 
sponging  the  soiled  portions  with  a  weak  acetic  acid 
water. 

Stains  of  unknown  derivation  in  plain  or  dyed  cotton 
goods  are  first  treated  with  a  very  weak,  lukewarm 
solution  of  soap,  to  each  quart  of  which  a  teaspoonful 
of  ammonia  has  been  added.  Washing  is  effected  with 
a  sponge  or  tampion  dipped  into  the  fluid.  The 
fabric  is  finally  washed  in  water- 
It  may  here  be  again  remarked  that  before  attempt- 
ing the  removal  of  stains,  an  experiment  should  in  all 
cases  be  made  on  a  portion  of  the  fabric  where,  if  a 
change  in  the  color  should  take  place,  it  would  be  least 
noticed. 

For  cleaning  woolen  goods,  especially  when  colored, 
sponge  the  entire  garment  with  a  neutral  soap  solution. 
Work  rapidly  and  finish  by  rinsing  in  a  weak  acetic 
acid  water. 

Grease  stains,  recent  as  well  as  old,  are  generally  re- 
moved by  dry  cleaning.  If  oil  stains  are  not  removed 
in  the  dry  cleaning  and  if  a  spotting  with  chloroform 
or  carbon  tetrachloride  fails  to  dissolve  them,  a  good 
plan  of  dealing  with  them  is  to  rub  them  over  with  a 
little  oleic  acid,  allow  this  to  soak  in,  then  treat  the 
stains  with  soap  and  water,  which  will,  as  a  rule,  be 
found  effective  in  removing  them.     However,  as  the 


I02   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

fabric  may  be  affected  by  the  soap,  the  folloT^nng  plan 
may  be  recommended:  Wet  the  fabric,  unth  the  ex- 
ception of  silk,  and  after  placinj^  several  thicknesses  of 
blotting-paper  under  the  stained  portions,  rub  with  a 
tampion  and  a  sponge  dipped  in  benzine  or  turpentine. 
\Vhcn  the  stain  has  disapj^earcd  from  the  surface, 
place  a  piece  of  blotting-paper  upon  it  and  pass  a  hot 
fiat-iron  several  times  over  it.  The  entire  fabric  is 
finally  sponged  in  warm  soap-water,  to  which  am- 
monia has  been  added,  or.  still  better,  in  a  warm  de- 
coction of  soaproot  or  of  quillaia-bark. 

The  use  of  benzine  for  the  removal  of  grease  spots 
has  the  disadvantage  that  a  spotty  appearance  is  fre- 
quently left  on  the  fabric.  To  overcome  this  defect, 
the  use  of  the  following  preparations  has  been  recom- 
mended : 

Bcnzinizcd  masincsia.  This  is  prepared  by  mixing 
calcined  magnesia  (not  carbonate  of  magnesia)  with 
just  sufficient  p\ire  benzine  so  as  to  moisten  it  without 
being  pasty.  It  should  be  just  wet  enough  so  that 
when  the  mass  is  pressed  between  the  fingers,  a  small 
quantity  of  liquid  benzine  is  squeezed  out.  In  this 
state  it  forms  a  crummy  mass  which  is  kept  for  use  in 
a  well-corked,  somewhat  wide-mouthed,  glass  bottle. 
For  use  spread  the  preparation  quite  tliickly  over  the 
stains  and  rub  it  thoroughly  to  and  fro  with  the  tip 
of  the  finger.  Brush  off  the  small  lumps  of  earthy 
matter  thus  formed,  lay  on  more  of  the  i)rcparation. 
allowing  it  to  remain  until  the  benzine  Ikxs  entirely 
evaporated,  and  then  brush  off  the  adhering  particles 
of  magnesia. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  103 

Gelatinized  benzine  may  be  used  in  the  same  man- 
ner, it  being  in  many  cases  preferable  to  benzinized 
magnesia.  It  is  prepared  by  dissolving  in  a  quart 
bottle  120  parts  of  soap  in  180  parts  of  hot  water  and 
adding  30  parts  of  ammonia.  Then  add  sufficient 
water  to  fill  the  bottle  three-quarters  full,  next  sufficient 
benzine  to  fill  it  entirely,  and  shake. 

Of  this  solution,  mix  one  teaspoonful  in  a  ha  If -pint 
bottle  with  some  benzine,  and,  after  mixing,  fill  the 
bottle  with  benzine,  shaking  constantly.  With  this 
gelatine,  stains  of  all  sorts  can  be  removed  without 
risk  of  injury  to  even  the  most  delicate  colors.  How- 
ever, if,  on  account  of  the  employment  of  benzine,  the 
formation  of  circles,  rings,  etc.,  is  feared,  scatter  upon 
the  place,  while  still  wet,  plaster  of  Paris  or  talcum, 
which  after  drying  is  brushed  off. 

In  many  cases,  especially  when  the  grease-stains 
are  fresh,  the  damage  may  be  remedied  by  the  use 
of  ammonia  or  weak  soda  solution,  and  subsequent 
washing.  From  silk  fabrics  grease  stains  are  removed 
with  benzinized  magnesia  or  gelatinized  benzine ;  ether- 
ized magnesia,  which  is  prepared  in  a  similar  manner 
as  benzinized  magnesia,  being,  however,  preferable  for 
the  purpose. 

Etherized  magnesia  is  prepared  by  mixing  calcined 
magnesia  with  sufficient  ether  to  form  a  thin  paste, 
which  is  spread  over  the  stains.  When  the  ether  has 
vaporized,  brush  off  the  magnesia  spot  and  finally 
rub  with  a  piece  of  soft  white  bread.  Under  certain 
conditions,  etherized  magnesia,  as  well  as  alcohol,  may, 
however,  act  energetically  upon  colors. 


I04   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

An  stains  of  a  fatty  nature  disappear  by  thorough 
chemical  cleaning,  and  there  remain  behind  only  the 
so-called  water-stains,  and  those  due  to  milk.  soup.  beer, 
etc.,  which  can  be  brushed  out  with  water.  Such 
stains,  as  well  as  those  of  coflfee,  wine,  sugar  and  tea. 
disappear  from  white  goods  by  treatment  with  luke- 
warm soap  solution  and  thorough  washing  with  water. 
Checked  and  all  other  stuffs,  for  which  soap  cannot 
be  used,  are  treated  with  cold  water  slightly  acidu- 
lated with  acetic  acid,  which  generally  accomplishes 
the  object,  and  does  not  injure  even  the  most  delicate 
colors.  \Vhen  the  entire  front  of  a  coat  is  covered 
with  smaller  and  larger  stains  of  this  nature,  it  is  best 
to  work  from  seam  to  seam,  sjjreading  the  coat  upon 
the  scouring-board.  bnishing  it  thoroughly  and  quickly 
■^N-ith  water,  and  absorbing  the  latter  at  once  with  a 
piece  of  buckskin.  Special  attention  must  be  paid  to 
the  lining  because  by  pressure  it  frequently  produces 
darker  stains.  Care  must  also  be  had  that  the  coat 
does  not  lose  shape  by  this  treatment,  and  that  the 
stiffening  and  interlining  are  not  shifted;  hence  as  little 
water  as  possible  should  be  used. 

Very  old  grease  stains  are  first  treated  v^nth  chloro- 
form or  carbon  tetrachloride,  and  then  with  benzinized 
magnesia.  Stains  of  sohd  fals.  such  as  tallow,  lard, 
wax.  paraffine.  ceresine,  etc..  are  first  softened  with 
castor  oil  and  then  treated  as  above.  Saponification  of 
the  grease  in  the  tissues  by  the  use  of  ammonia  or 
soda  he  cannot  be  recommended  for  wool  and  silk. 
and  for  cotton  and  linen  only  when  the  colors  are  fast 
to  soap;   with  these  materials  satisfactor>'  results  are, 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I05 

as  a  rule,  also  obtained  with  ether,  benzine  or  chloro- 
form. 

Grease  stains  upon  the  backs  of  garments  caused  by 
long  hair,  are  removed  by  rubbing  with  a  piece  of  cotton 
dipped  in  the  following  mixture:  Ammonia,  4  spoon- 
fuls ;  common  salt,  i  spoonful ;  shake  thoroughly.  Or, 
dissolve  a  small  quantity  of  gall  soap  in  water,  moisten 
a  small  brush  with  the  solution,  brush  the  stains  and 
rinse  in  clean  water. 

Paint  and  varnish  stains  are  first  treated  with  pure 
turpentine.  Old  stains  are  best  removed  by  repeated 
applications  of  a  mixture  of  turpentine  and  chloroform, 
the  solvent  being  allowed  to  soak  in  well  before  the 
application  of  blotting-paper  as  described  under 
"grease  stains."  There  is  one  objection  to  the  use  of 
turpentine;  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  eradicate  its 
odor  from  the  garment  on  which  it  has  been  used. 
Chloroform  by  itself  is  also  an  excellent  solvent  for 
old  paint  and  varnish  stains,  as  are  also  aniline  oil, 
acetone,  and  benzole. 

Stains  of  resin,  tar,  or  wagon- grease.  To  remove 
these  and  similar  stains  from  white  goods,  moisten 
the  fabric,  rub  the  stain  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  tur- 
pentine, place  blotting-paper  beneath  and  on  top  of 
the  grease  spot,  and  pass  a  hot  iron  several  times  over 
it.  Finally  wash  the  entire  fabric  in  warm  soap  water. 
Colored  cotton  or  woolen  fabrics  are  moistened,  the 
stains  thoroughly  soaped,  and  after  allowing  the  soap 
to  act  for  a  few  minutes,  washed  alternatelv  with  tur- 
pentine and  water. 

If  the  stains  do  not  yield  to  this  treatment,  spread 


Io6   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

a  mixtxire  of  yolk  of  egg  and  turpentine  over  the 
stains;  when  dr>'  scrape  it  off,  and  finally  wash  in 
hot  water. 

As  a  final  means,  the  fabric  may  be  washed  in 
water  to  which  some  hydrochloric  acid  has  been 
added,  and  thoroughly  rinsed  in  soft  water. 

Articles  of  silk,  satin,  etc..  are  moistened,  and  the 
stains  rubbed  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  a  mixture  of 
ether  and  chloroform.  WTien  the  stain  has  disap- 
peared scatter  bole  (pipe-clay)  upon  the  place,  cover 
\snth  blotting-paper,  and  pass  a  hot  iron  several  times 
over  it. 

If  the  stain  has  not  disappeared,  mix  yolk  of  egg 
with  chloroform,  spread  the  mixture  over  the  stain, 
allow  it  to  dr\'.  then  scrape  off.  and  treat  as  prcNnously 
described.  Aniline  oil  is  an  excellent  solvent  for  resin 
stains,  and  it  also  readily  dissolves  tar.  Ether  will 
sometimes  move  tar  stains  when  all  other  reagents  fail 
to  do  so. 

Stearin  ajid  u^ax-stains  are  carefully  removed  as  much 
as  possible  with  a  knife.  Then  place  a  wet  linen  rag 
beneath,  and  blotting-paper  on  top  of  the  stain,  and 
pass  a  warm  flat-iron  over  it. 

If  the  stain  is  inaccessible  with  the  flat-iron,  treat 
it  with  chloroform,  which  will  surely  remove  it. 

Fruit  stains  disappear  from  linen  goods  (table-cloths, 
napkins,  handkerchiefs,  etc.).  by  rinsing  in  eau  de 
Jai'cllc  or  another  bleaching- fluid,  or  in  weak  solution 
of  chloride  of  lime,  which  must,  however,  be  jx?rfcctly 
clear,  and  to  which  some  vinegar  may  be  added.  When 
the  fabric  is  clean,  it  is  thoroughly  rinsed  in  running 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  1 07 

water  and  best  drawn  through  a  solution  of  sodium 
hyposulphite,  or  of  soda. 

White  cotton  goods  may  be  treated  in  a  similar 
manner.  Fruit  stains  frequently  disappear  by  simply 
washing  in  soap  water  to  which  some  borax  or  am- 
monia has  been  added. 

Fruii  stains  on  woolen  and  silk  goods  should  be 
treated  with  weak  glacial  acetic  acid.  Daub  the  spot 
with  the  acid  and  follow  with  a  bleach  of  sulphurous 
acid  or  hydrogen  peroxide  if  the  colors  are  found  to 
be  fast  to  these  bleaches  when  used  weak.  If  the  colors 
will  not  stand  the  bleaching  treatment  follow  the 
glacial  acetic  acid  with  methyl  alcohol. 
>  Stains  of  red  wine,  cherries,  whortleberries,  etc.,  in 
white  goods  are  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  fruit 
stains. 

In  many  cases  wine  stains  may  be  removed  by 
sponging  with  soap  and  water.  If  this  fails  to  remove 
them  they  must  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
fruit  stains. 

Milk  and  coffee  stains.  Apply  a  mixture  of  yolk 
of  egg  and  glycerin,  then  wash  in  warm  water,  and  while 
still  moist,  iron  the  fabrics  upon  the  wrong  side  with 
a  flat-iron,  which  should  not  be  too  hot. 

As  a  rule,  milk  and  coffee  stains  are  difficul  to 
remove,  especially  from  light-colored  and  finely  finished 
goods.  From  woolen  and  mixed  fabrics  they  are  taken 
out  by  moistening  them  with '  a  mixture  of  i  part 
glycerin,  9  parts  water,  and  }^  part  ammonia.  This 
mixture  is  applied  to  the  goods  by  means  of  a  brush 
and  allowed  to  remain  12  hours,  occasionally  renewing 


I08   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

the  moistening.  After  this  the  stained  pieces  are 
pressed  between  cloth  and  then  rubbed  \\'ith  a  clean 
rag.  E>r\'inj:;.  and  if  pibssible,  a  little  steaming,  are 
generally  sufficient  to  thoroughly  remove  the  stains. 

Stains  on  silk  garments  which  are  dyed  with  deli- 
cate colors,  or  finely  finished,  are  more  difficult  to 
remove.  In  this  case.  5  parts  of  glycerin  are  mixed 
with  5  parts  of  water,  and  I4  part  of  ammonia  added. 
Before  using  this  mixture  it  should  be  tried  on  some 
part  of  the  garments  where  it  will  not  be  noticed,  in 
order  to  see  if  the  mi.xture  vsnll  change  the  color.  If 
such  is  the  case,  no  ammonia  should  be  added.  If, 
on  the  contrary,  no  change  takes  place,  or  if,  after 
dr>'ing,  the  original  color  is  restored,  the  above  mix- 
ture is  applied  with  a  soft  brush,  allo\ving  it  to  remain 
on  the  stains  for  6  to  8  hours,  and  is  then  rubbed 
with  a  clean  cloth.  The  remaining  dry  substance  is 
then  carefully  taken  off  by  means  of  a  knife.  The 
damaged  places  are  now  brushed  over  with  clean 
water,  pressed  between  cloths,  and  dried.  If  the 
stain  is  not  then  removed,  rubbing  with  dr>'  bread 
will  cause  it  to  disapjx^ar.  To  restore  the  finish,  a 
thin  solution  of  gum  arabic — in  many  cases  beer  is 
preferred — is  brushed  on,  tlien  dried,  and  carefully 
ironed.  By  careful  manipulation  the  above-mentioned 
stains  \nll  be  successfully  removed. 

Soup  stains,  as  well  as  smaller  grease-stains  in  general, 
are  removed  by  sponging  with  hot  water  to  which  some 
soda,  or  borax,  or  ammonia  has  been  added. 

Stains  on  cotton  goods  need  only  be  rubbed  vnih 
rectified  oil  of  turpentine  or  benzine.     The  surplus 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I09 

of  the  solvent  is  then  removed  with  blotting-paper  and 
the  fabric  washed  in  clean  soap-water,  whereby  the 
stains  will  be  successfully  removed. 

Silk  fabrics  are  treated  in  the  same  manner,  ether, 
chloroform,  or  carbon  tetrachloride  being,  however, 
preferred  to  benzine. 

Stains  of  beer,  wine,  punch,  sugar,  gelatine,  glue,  etc. 
Comparatively  speaking,  these  stains  are  very  rea  ily 
removed,  simple  sponging  with  clean,  tepid  soap- 
water  being  in  most  cases  sufficient.  If  necessary, 
the  fabric  may  be  bleached  in  eau  de  Javelle  or  another 
bleaching  fluid,  or  in  perfectly  clear  solution  of  chloride 
of  lime  to  which  some  vinegar  has  been  added.  It  is 
finally  thoroughly  rinsed  in  water,  or,  still  better,  in 
a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda,  to  remove  any  excess 
of  chlorine  that  might  be  present. 

Grass  stains  may  be  removed  from  all  classes  of 
goods  by  spotting  with  ether. 

Stains  from  green  nuts,  as  well  as  so-called  tannin 
stains,  are  repeatedly  sponged  with  water  and  alcohol, 
then  treated  with  dilute  chlorine-water,  pure,  per- 
fectly clear  chloride  of  lime  solution  acidulated  with 
vinegar,  or  one  of  the  various  bleaching-fluids,  and 
finally  washed  in  much  water.  Stains  caused  by  walnut 
shells  or  the  juice  therefrom  cannot  be  removed  satis- 
factorily by  means  of  chlorine  or  sodiirm  perborate 
bleaches,  neither  can  they  be  removed  by  stripping 
salts.  These  stains  are  similar  in  character  to  stains 
caused  by  photographic  developers  and  must  be  simi- 
larly treated. 

Acid  stains,   when  fresh,   disappear  by  moistening 


no      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

them  \v!th  ammonia,  or  soda  solution,  the  original 
color  being  in  almost  all  cases  restored  by  the  sub- 
sequent application  of  chloroform. 

Old  stains  resist  all  reagents  and  have  to  be  re-dyed. 

Nitric  acid  stains.  These  stains  are  generally  of  a 
yellow  color,  and,  when  fresh,  can  be  removed  from 
brown  or  black  woolen  garments  by  moistening  them 
for  a  while  with  concentrated  solution  of  jjermanga- 
nate  of  potash  and  rinsing  with  water.  Old  stains 
are  brushed  over  witli  nitrate  of  silver  solution,  where- 
by they  acquire  a  black  color.  Concentrated  nitric 
acid  will  almost  immediately  destroy  any  fabric  wth 
which  it  comes  in  contact. 

Stains  of  wine-vinegar,  sour  witie,  etc.,  are  removed 
by  neutralizing  the  acid  with  water  of  ammonia, 
soda,  or  a  similar  agent. 

Lye  and  lime  status  disappear  from  linen  fabrics  by 
washing.  From  cotton,  woolen,  and  silk  goods  the 
stains  are  removed  by  carefulh'  applying  to  them,  drop 
by  drop,  any  dilute  acid  (with  the  exception  of  sul- 
phuric and  tartaric  acids),  until  they  have  disap- 
peared, and  then  thoroughly  w:ishing.  A  weak  solu- 
tion of  hydrochloric  acid  free  from  iron  is  best  suited 
for  the  purpose.  When  the  stains  disappear  the  acid 
must  be  rinsed  from  the  goods. 

Urine  stains  are  treated  with  alcohol  or  dilute  citric 
acid  solution,  and  the  place  where  the  stain  has  been 
is  revived  with  chloroform.  The  following  mixture 
will  also  be  found  useful:  Tartaric  acid,  i  part;  water, 
30  parts.    Or,  oxalic  acid,  1  part;  water,  10  parts. 

Perspiration  stains  are  removed  from  woolen  and 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  Ill 

cotton  goods  with  sodium  hyposulphite,  or  a  perborate 
of  sodium  solution,  and  subsequent  washing  with 
water;  from  silk  and  satin,  also  with  dilute  sodium 
hyposulphite  solution,  or,  from  silk  with  strong  salt 
water  in  which  the  article  is  allowed  to  remain  3  to 
4  hours.  From  worsted  and  cheviot  garments  per- 
spiration stains  are  removed  by  brushing  with  ben- 
zine, and  finally  by  washing  with  soap  and  water. 
If,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  the  ground  color  of  colored 
goods  is  injured  by  this  process,  it  has  to  be  remedied 
by  re-dyeing. 

Perspiration  stains  are  removed  from  woolen  goods 
with  distilled  water  and  a  small  quantity  of  castile 
soap  solution  by  brushing  the  spot  and  then  rinsing 
to  remove  all  the  soap;  the  spot  is  finally  moistened 
with  saccharic  acid  solution.  Subsequent  thorough 
washing  is  absolutely  necessary,  as  otherwise  the  lining 
would  be  burned  by  the  remaining  acid.  Silk  articles 
as  well  as  cotton  goods  are  treated  in  the  same  manner, 
chlorine  instead  of  sr,ccharic  acid  being,  however,  used 
for  the  latter.  By  reason  of  the  varying  constitution 
of  the  stuffs  no  general  rule  can,  however,  be  laid  down 
and  the  removal  of  such  stains  has  to  be  done  by  a 
skilled  hand. 

Perspiration  stains  may  also  be  removed  with  a 
mixture  of  i  part  ammonia,  3  parts  alcohol,  and  3 
parts  ether.  From  white  linen  and  cotton  goods  they 
are  removed  by  rational  washing  with  soap. 

Uniform  facings,  cuffs,  pocket-fiaps,  etc.,  of  a  red 
or  other  color,  when  soiled  by  perspiration,  are  first 
chemically    cleaned    with    benzine    soap.      They    are 


112      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

next  thoroughly  brushed  and  rinsed  in  clean  benzine. 
When  the  benzine  has  evaporated,  they  are  again 
thoroughly  brushed  with  lukewarm  water  to  which 
ammonia  has  been  added,  then  rinsed  by  means  of  a 
sponge  with  lukewarm  water  and  dried  with  a  flannel 
rag  of  the  same  color  as  the  goods.  By  the  appli- 
cation of  the  water  and  ammonia,  the  dirt  imme- 
diately dissolves  so  that  it  can  be  removed  with  Ihe 
finger  nail  or  a  dull  knife.  Perspiration  very  frequently 
weakens  deUcate  fabrics  and  the  utmost  caution  must 
be  used  in  such  cases  not  to  tear  or  injure  the  garment. 

Greasy  shiiic  of  men's  worn  worsted  or  cheviot 
garments  is  removed  by  gently  rubbing  the  shiny 
places  with  glass  or  emer>'  j^aper,  and  then  vigor- 
ously vaporizing  by  means  of  a  moist  cloth  and  hot 
iron,  or  by  steaming.  If  the  color  of  the  goods  allows, 
the  places  may  also  be  thorouj^hly  brushed  with  alum 
solution,  dried  and  ironed  while  quite  damp. 

Nitrate  of  silver  stains  in  wliite  goods  are  removed 
with  a  fluid  consisting  of  loo  i)arts  by  weight  of  dis- 
tilled water,  4  parts  by  weight  of  ammonia,  and  4 
parts  by  weight  of  chloride  of  mercury.  These  stains 
may  also  be  treated  successful  1\-  by  first  washing  them 
with  water  and  then  daubing  them  with  a  tincture 
of  iodine  and,  lastly,  with  j^otassium  cyanide.  Care 
should  be  taken  not  to  damaj^c  the  dye. 

Aniline  color  stains.  Red  stains  due  to  aniline  color 
are  removed  with  hot  alcohol  or  with  soda  solution 
heated  to  122°  F.,  provided  the  ground  color  is  suffi- 
ciently fast  not  to  be  attacked  by  the  soda  or  the 
alcohol. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  II3 

Ink  stains.  These  may  be  due  to  aniline  ink  and 
nutgall  ink . 

In  the  first  case  the  stains — provided  they  are  not 
on  silk  fabrics — will  generally  yield  to  washing  in 
soap-water,  in  a  bleaching  fluid,  or  in  alcohol  acidu- 
lated with  vinegar. 

The  removal  of  stains  due  to  nutgall  ink  is  more 
difficult.  If  not  too  old,  stains  on  linen  fabrics  some- 
times yield  by  laying  the  latter  in  a  bleaching  fluid 
or  chloride  of  lime  solution,  allowing  them  to  remain 
for  some  time.  In  applying  these  substances  great 
care  must  be  taken,  especially  with  bleaching  fluid, 
not  to  use  them  too  strong,  or  they  will  act  upon  the 
fabric  and  destroy  it. 

The  stains  also  frequently  disappear  by  treating 
them  with  a  concentrated  solution  of  oxalic,  tartaric,  or 
hydrochloric  acid. 

A  peculiar  method  of  treating  ink  stains,  as  well  as 
iron-mold  stains,  is  as  follows:  Scatter  upon  the 
moistened  stain  pulverized  oxalic  acid  and  rub  it  into 
the  tissue  with  a  bright  piece  of  iron;  or  stretch  the 
stained  portion  of  the  fabric  over  a  heated  bright  tin 
pot  or  tin  plate,  and  rub  in  the  powdered  oxalic  acid. 
The  action  is  the  more  effective  the  more  intimately 
the  stain  is  brought  in  contact  with  the  heated  metal. 

To  produce  the  best  effect  it  is  only  necessary  to 
scatter  fine  tin  dust  or  tin  shavings  upon  the  stain 
previously  moistened  with  hot  oxalic  acid  solution. 
The  stain  disappears  as  if  by  magic. 

Another  method  is  as  follows:  Mix  equal  parts  of 
cream  of  tartar  and  citric  acid,  powdered  fine.     This 


114  ^^^^'    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

fonns  the  salt  of  lemons  as  sold  by  druggists.  Pro- 
ctire  a  hot  dinner-plate,  lay  the  part  stained  on  the 
plate,  and  moisten  with  hot  water;  next  rub  in  the 
above-mentioned  powder  \\'ith  the  bowl  of  a  s]KK)n 
until  the  stain  disappears;  then  rinse  in  clean  water 
and  dry. 

The  stain  may  also  be  washed  in  a  solution  of  yel- 
low prussiate  of  potash  to  which  sulphuric  acid  has 
been  added,  and  the  blue  spot  thereby  formed  removed 
by  rinsing  in  potash  solution.  If,  after  this,  a  yellow 
stain  should  remain,  it  is  removed  with  sulphuric  acid. 

Beschomer  recommends  the  following  process:  Place 
the  linen  fabric  in  a  mixture  of  1 5  parts  distilled  water 
and  2  parts  hydrochloric  acid,  allow  it  to  remain  in 
the  rmxture  for  half  an  hour,  then  wash  thoroughly  in 
clean  water,  and  pour  ammonium  sulphide  over  the 
still  moist  stain;  the  latter  operation  should  be  con- 
ducted in  the  open  air.  After  ten  minutes,  when  the 
iron  has  been  converted  into  ferrous  sulphide,  rinse  the 
linen  in  clear  water,  pour  a  mixture  of  1  part  hydro- 
chloric acid  and  15  parts  distilled  water  over  it,  and 
again  rinse  in  clean  water. 

For  stains  on  fabrics  dyed  with  fast  colors  hydrogen 
peroxide,  perborate  of  sodium,  or  tartaric  acid  may  be 
used. 

Old  ink  stains  are  sponged  in  dilute  chloride  of  tin 
solution,  and  the  fabric  thoroughly  rin.'^cd  in  soft  water. 

From  silk  fabrics  ink  stains,  in  many  cases,  cannot 
be  removed,  the  only  remedy  being  to  re-dye  the 
stained  portions. 

From  scarlet  woolen  fabrics  black  ink  stains  can  be 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  II5 

readily  removed  by  moisten' ng  the  stain  with  cold 
water  by  means  of  a  white  rag,  then  applying  a  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice,  and  after  the  disappearance  of 
the  black  stain  sponging  with  clean  cold  water. 

In  place  of  the  method  of  removing  ink  stains  by 

means  of  oxalic  acid  and  subsequent  treatment  with 

potassium    permanganate,    the    following    process    is 

recommended:    Prepare  so-called  aceto-oxalic  acid  by 

saturating  10  per  cent,  acetic  acid  with  oxalic  acid, 

and  mix  i  part  of  the  product  with  4  parts  of  alcohol. 

The  solution,   which  depends  for  its   action  on   the 

solubility   of   iron   oxalate   in   alcohol,    will   eradicate 

stains  caused  by  ferro-gallic  inks,   and  it  may  also 

be  used  for  stains  arising  from  copying  and  aniline 

inks.     To  colored  stripe  goods  it  must,  however,  be 

applied  with  care,  as  there  is  some  risk  of  the  colors 

running,   so  that   an  aqueous  solution  of   the  mixed 

acids  is  preferable  for  such  fabrics.     One  of  the  chief 

advantages   of   the   alcoholic   solution  is   that   it   will 

dissolve    ink   stains   on   light-colored   fabrics  without 

affecting  the  dye;  and  it  is  also  applicable  for  removing 

colored  stains,  such  as  produced  by  chlorophyll  {grass 

stains) . 

Blood  stains.  A  solvent  or  a  bleaching  action  is 
necessary  to  remove  blood  stains.  Spot  with  a  50- 
per-cent.  solution  of  lactic  acid  followed  by  peroxide 
of  hydrogen  or  glacial  acetic  acid.  The  action  of  these 
two  reagents  should  first  be  tried  on  a  clipping  of 
the  material  to  determine  their  effects  on  the  color. 
Fabrics  containing  many  and  old  blood  stains  may  ad- 
vantageously be  soaked  in  cold  water  for  a  few  hours. 


Il6   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

AlctaUic  oxide  stains.  These  stains,  as  a  rule,  have 
a  brown-bluish  appearance  and  are  not  difficult  to  re- 
move, prox-iding  the  use  of  oxidizing  agents,  which 
tend  to  fasten  the  stain,  are  avoided.  A  spotting  with 
dilute  nitric,  hydrochloric  or  oxalic  acid  will  remove 
them.  After  the  stain  has  disappeared  all  acid  must 
be  rinsed  from  the  goods.  Wlien  the  stain  is  on  colored 
goods  the  color  must  be  tested  to  see  that  the  dye  is 
fast  to  the  particular  acid  used. 

Stains  of  artificial  perfumes.  Artificial  perfumes  are 
now  in  common  use  and  many  stains  caused  by  them 
prove  very  obstinate.  Many  of  them  are  easily  re- 
moved with  a  mixture  of  acetic  acid  and  alcohol,  if 
the  mixture  is  used  warm,  and  if  the  garment  to  be 
cleaned  is  white,  at  least  where  the  stain  appears. 
Many  dyes  bleed  when  the  mixture  of  acid  and  alco- 
hol is  applied.  The  problem  is  again  complicated 
by  the  fact  that  many  perfumes  are  prepared  with 
impure  alcohol  containing  fusel  oil  and  resins.  Fusel 
oil  and  resins  leave,  after  evaporation  of  the  alcohol, 
green,  yellow  and  bro\\Ti  stains.  Some  perfumes  also 
leave  dull-white  patches  of  stcarine.  All  these  stains 
require  treatment  with  ether,  great  care  being  taken 
to  prevent  the  stains  from  spreading.  To  do  this  the 
ether  must  be  applied  around  the  stain  before  using  it 
on  the  stain  itself.  A  subsequent  treatment  with 
rectified  alcohol  or  aniline  will  take  out  any  traces  of 
perfume  stain  which  the  ether  may  have  failed  to 
remove.  If,  however,  the  perfume  stain  is  associated 
with  discoloration  due  to  other  agencies,  the  part  of 
the  stain  for  which  the  perfimie  is  responsible  must  be 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  II7 

first  removed  as  above  directed.  The  remaining  stain 
will  almost  always  yield  to  the  joint  action  of  oxalic 
acid  and  hydrogen  peroxide,  or  sodium  perborate. 

In  the  case  of  silk  it  is  a  good  plan  to  dampen  the 
place  where  the  stain  has  been  with  strong  alcohol, 
which  is  then  allowed  to  evaporate.  This  treatment 
will  restore  the  luster  which  is  nearly  always  affected 
by  the  stain  removal.  The  effect  of  the  alcohol  on  the 
dye  should  first  be  tested. 

Iron  and  rust  stains  may  generally  be  removed  in 
the  same  manner  as  metal  stains.  They  frequently  dis- 
appear readily  and  rapidly  by  placing  the  fabrics  in 
a  bleaching  fluid  or  a  clear  solution  of  chloride  of 
lime  acidulated  with  acetic  acid,  and  finally  thorough 
washing  in  water. 

The  stains  also  disappear  in  boiling  solution  of  tar- 
taric acid.  Very  good  results  are  frequently  obtained 
by  the  use  of  warm  solutions  of  oxaHc,  tartaric  or 
citric  acid. 

The  removal  of  iron  or  rust  stains,  which  at  the 
same  time  form  oil  or  fat  stains,  is,  however,  more 
difficult.  It  may  most  readily  be  accomplished  by 
washing  in  a  bath  of  i  part  soft  soap,  i  part  glycerin, 
and  3  parts  water. 

Mold  and  mildew  stains  are  formed  in  fabrics  of  any 
kind  kept  in  a  room  from  which  the  air  is  excluded. 
The  dressing  on  the  damp  places  dissolves  and  on 
slowly  drying  penetrates  into  the  fabric.  For  the  re- 
moval of  such  stains  alcohol  is  first  used,  which  dis- 
solves the  dressing.  Then  dab  the  stains  with  am- 
monia,  allowing  it  to  act  for  a   few  minutes;  next, 


Il8   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

without  previous  rinsing,  dab  them  ^^^th  potassium 
permanganate,  allowing  it  also  to  act  for  a  few  min- 
utes; then  moisten  with  hydrogen  peroxide,  and  finally 
wash  thoroughly.  A  lo  per  cent,  solution  of  oxalic 
acid  will  also  remove  mold  stains. 

Old  wold  stains  are  removed  as  follows:  Saturate 
a  white  rag  with  ammonia,  wrap  it  in  another  clean 
dry  rag,  place  it  on  a  steamer,  draw  the  stained  article 
over  the  rag  and  for  several  minutes  pass  steam  through 
it.  The  stains  are  then  treated  with  potassium  per- 
manganate and  hydrogen  peroxide  as  described  above. 

Colored  articles  unth  mold  stains  may  be  treated 
in  the  same  manner,  but  unth  the  omission  of  the 
bleaching  agents.  After  steaming  over  the  rag  satur- 
ated with  ammonia,  the  stained  portions  are  moistened 
with  acetic  acid  and  again  steamed  to  restore  the 
original  color.  Instead  of  alcohol  for  the  first  treat- 
ment, acetic  ether  may  be  used  to  advantage. 

When  stains  are  to  be  removed  from  dyed  fabrics, 
a  preliminary  test  should  be  made  to  ascertain  the 
behavior  of  the  dye  towards  the  reagent,  this  being 
especially  necessary  vsnth  fabrics  upon  which  the 
coloring  matter  is  not  fixed,  and  which  yield  the 
latter  by  simple  treatment  with  water  or  soap-water. 

Alkali.  Stains  of  alkali  often  remain  after  mud  and 
dust  have  been  removed  from  garments.  They  re- 
quire a  neutralizing  action  to  remove  them  and  should 
be  treated  with-  a  weak  acid  solution  and  rinsed. 
Acetic  acid  is  well  suited  for  this  purpose. 

Berry  stains  should  be  treated  in  the  same  manner 
as  fruit  or  dye  stains.    Either  a  solvent  or  a  bleaching 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  II9 

action  is  necessary.  If  the  stains  are  on  dyed  goods, 
spot  first  with  a  weak  acid  solution,  rinse,  and  finally 
sponge  the  spot  with  a  soap  solution.  If  they  are  on 
white  goods  and  prove  to  be  obstinate  they  may  be 
bleached  out. 

Catidy  stains  may  be  removed  by  sponging  with 
soap  and  water.  If  chocolate  is  present  it  is  some- 
times necessary  to  follow  the  sponging  operation  by 
a  spotting  with  glycerine. 

Chocolate  stains  may  be  removed  in  the  same  manner 
as  coffee  stains.  Glycerine  is  often  of  assistance  in 
removing  old  and  obstinate  ones. 

Developer  stains  are  found  on  the  garments  of  pro- 
fessional and  amateur  photographers.  To  remove  them 
proceed  as  follows:  Dissolve  a  small  amount  of  sul- 
phide of  soda  in  water  and  add  a  few  drops  of  hydro- 
chloric acid.  Daub  the  spot  with  this  solution  and 
when  it  has  disappeared  rinse  thoroughly  that  portion 
of  the  garment  that  has  been  treated.  The  dye  and 
the  fabric  should  first  be  tested  to  make  sure  this  treat- 
ment will  damage  neither. 

Dye  stains  are  generally  caused  by  the  color  from 
one  garment  running  or  bleeding  into  another  under 
the  influence  of  perspiration  or  rain.  It  is  a  difficult 
matter  to  remove  these  stains  without  injuring  or  re- 
moving the  original  color  of  the  fabric.  The  action 
of  ammonia  and  soap  will  sometimes  accomplish  the 
desired  results,  if  not,  a  bleaching  action  must  be  re- 
sorted to.  The  hydrosulphite  compounds  are  generally 
resorted  to  in  this  emergency.  If  a  garment  is  badly 
stained  the  cleaner  will  do  well  to  leave  it  alone  or  to 


I20      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

get  the  customer's  permission  to  go  ahead  >^-ith  the 
work  rather  than  to  assume  the  responsibihty. 

Egg  spots  may  be  removed  by  spotting  with  chloro- 
form, also  by  sponging  ^^nth  soap  and  water. 

Fly  specks.  Moisten  the  spot  and  remove  the  ad- 
hering matter  by  gently  scraping  \\nth  the  fiiu't-r  ii:iil 
or  the  back  of  a  knife  blade. 

Cliciving  gum.  Place  a  piece  of  ice  over  the  gtrni  and 
allow  it  to  remain  until  the  gum  becomes  hard  and 
brittle.  The  gimi  may  then  be  removed  by  a  gentle 
scraping  and  by  working  the  goods  between  the  fingers. 
If  any  remains  after  this  treatment  it  may  be  dissolved 
vN-ith  chloroform. 

Copper  stains.  Spot  with  a  weak  solution  of  oxalic 
acid  or  hydrochloric  acid.  Rinse  the  acid  from  the 
goods  after  the  spot  has  been  removed. 

Iodine.  Spot  the  stain  with  warm  water  to  which 
potassitun  of  cyanide  has  been  dissolved.  This  chemi- 
cal is  ver}'  poisonous  and  great  care  must  be  used  when 
handling  it.  A  lo-per-cent.  solution  of  soda  to  which 
some  ammonia  has  been  added  is  also  useful  as  a  spot- 
ting agent  for  removing  these  stains,  as  is  also  a  ten 
per  cent,  solution  of  hypochlorite  of  soda. 

Medicine.  As  a  rule  the  ingredients  in  the  particular 
medicine  causing  the  stain  are  not  known,  and  the 
cleaner  must  work  in  the  dark  to  a  great  extent.  Quite 
often  a  sponging  ^^'ith  soap  and  water  %\'ill  remove 
medicine  stains,  but  generally  they  are  quite  obstinate 
and  require  a  more  xngorous  treatment.  If  the  stain 
is  the  result  of  a  metallic  salt  a  spotting  with  a  weak 
oxalic  or  hvdrochloric  acid  will  turn  the  trick.     When 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  121 

the  more  common  methods  fail  the  stain  should  be 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  an  iodine  stain. 

Mustard  stains  require  a  solvent  treatment.  A 
sponging  with  soap  and  water  will  generally  remove 
them. 

Scorch.  If  the  scorch  is  on  white  goods  and  the 
fabric  is  not  damaged  it  may  be  removed  by  bleaching 
with  a  bleach  suited  to  the  particular  fabric.  If  the 
fabric  is  damaged  or  if  the  burned  area  is  of  large  ex- 
tent it  is  generally  impossible  to  better  matters.  If 
the  scorch  is  on  colored  goods  it  may  often  be  corrected 
by  covering  the  damaged  area  with  a  complementary 
color,  a  pale  bluish  violet. 

Shoe  polish  is  generally  composed  of  a  color  in  a 
soluble  oil.  The  first  step,  therefore,  is  to  dissolve  the 
oil.  This  may  be  done  by  spotting  with  benzine, 
chloroform,  tetrachloride  of  carbon,  etc.  If  a  stain  re- 
mains it  may  be  bleached  out  with  hypochlorite,  if  on 
cotton  goods,  and  with  permanganate  if  on  woolen 
goods.  Give  the  solvent  a  fair  chance  to  do  the  work 
before  resorting  to  the  bleach. 

Tea  stains  require  a  solvent  action.  Sponge  the 
stained  areas  with  soap  and  water  followed  by  a  treat- 
ment with  dilute  acetic  acid  if  necessary. 

Walnut  stains  must  be  treated  in  the  same  manner 
as  developer  stains. 

Wood-finish  stains  on  garments  can  be  removed  by  the 
same  methods  recommended  for  removing  color  stains. 

The  following  table  gives  at  a  glance  the  best  means 
of  cleaning  all  kinds  of  fabrics  from  those  stains  most 
frequently  met  with  in  everyday  practice. 


DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 


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REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  1 23 

The  preceding  table  and  the  receipts  previously 
given,  together  with  the  directions  which  follow,  afford 
a  ready  means  of  determining  the  proper  method  of 
procedure.  Taking  out  grease  and  other  spots  and 
stains  from  clothes  is  an  application  of  chemistry 
which  is  of  practical  interest  to  everybody.  It  demands 
a  certain  acquaintance  with  solvents  and  reagents, 
even  though  the  laws  of  chemical  affinity  on  which 
their  action  depends  may  not  be  understood.  The 
general  principle  is  the  application  to  the  spot  of  a 
substance  which  has  a  stronger  affinity  for  the  mat- 
ter composing  it  than  this  has  for  cloth,  and  which 
will  render  it  soluble  in  some  liquid  so  that  it  can  be 
washed  out.  At  the  same  time  it  must  be  something 
that  will  not  injure  the  texture  of  the  fabric  or  change 
its  color. 

The  following  directions  apply  especially  to  the 
garment  dyer: 

Steam  has  the  property  of  softening  fatty  matters 
and  thus  facilitating  their  removal  by  reagents. 

Sulphuric  acid  may  be  employed  in  certain  cases, 
especially  to  brighten  and  raise  greens,  reds,  and 
yellows,  but  it  must  be  diluted  with  at  least  100  times 
its  weight  of  water  or  more,  according  to  the  delicacy 
of  the  shades. 

Hydrochloric  and  oxalic  acids  in  dilute  solutions 
are  used  with  success  for  removing  spots  of  ink,  iron- 
mold,  and  metal  stains  upon  a  great  number  of  colors 
which  it  does  not  sensibly  affect. 

Sulphurous  acid  is  only  used  for  bleaching  undyed 
goods,  straw  hats,  etc.,  and  for  removing  fruit  stains 


124   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  OVER. 

upon  white  woolen  and  silk  fabrics.  The  fumes  of 
burning  sulphur  are  also  employed  for  this  purpose, 
but  the  liquid  acid  (or  a  solution  of  the  bisulphite — 
twt  bisulphatc — of  soda  or  magnesia)  is  safer. 

Dilute  oxalic  acid  serves  for  removing  spots  of  ink 
and  iron,  and  the  residues  of  mud  spots  which  do  not 
yield  to  other  cleansing  agents.  It  may  be  employed 
for  destroWng  the  stains  of  fruit  and  astringent  juices, 
and  stains  of  urine  which  have  long  been  upon  any 
tissue.  Nevertheless  it  is  best  confined  to  undyed 
goods,  as  it  attacks  not  only  fugitive  colors,  but  also 
certain  of  the  lighter  fast  colors.  The  best  method  of 
apphnng  it  is  to  dissolve  it  in  cold  or  lukewarm  water, 
and  to  let  a  little  of  the  solution  remain  upon  the  spot 
before  rubbing  it  with  the  hands. 

Citric  and  acetic  acids  serve  to  revive  and  raise  cer- 
tain colors,  especially  greens  and  yellows;  they  destroy 
the  effect  of  alkalies  or  any  bluish  or  crimson  spots 
which  appear  upon  scarlets. 

Ammonia  is  the  most  energetic  and  useful  agent 
employed  for  cleaning  tissues  and  silk  hats,  and  for 
quickly  neutralizing  the  efTccts  of  acids.  In  the 
latter  case  it  is  often  sufficient  to  expose  the  goods 
to  the  ftmies  of  this  alkali  in  order  to  remove  such 
spots  entirely.  Ammonia  gi\cs  a  violet  cast  to  all 
shades  produced  with  cochineal,  lac,  the  redwoods, 
or  logwood,  and  all  colors  topped  with  cochineal.  It 
does  not  deteriorate  silks,  but  at  elevated  temjx^ratures 
it  perceptibly  attacks  woolen.s.  It  serves  to  restore 
the  black  upon  silks  damaged  by  dampness. 

Carbonate  of  soda   (soda  crystals)   ser\'es  equally 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I25 

in  most  of  the  cases  where  ammonia  is  employed. 
It  is  good  for  hats  affected  by  sweat.  Soda  and 
potash  only  serve  for  the  white  goods  of  linen,  hemp, 
or  cotton,  because  these  alkalies  attack  colors  and 
injure  the  tenacity  and  suppleness  of  woolens  and 
silks.  For  the  same  reason  white  soap  only  is  to  be 
recommended  for  cleaning  white  woolen  tissues. 

Mottled  soaps  serve  for  cleaning  heavy  stuffs  of 
woolen  or  cotton,  such  as  quilts.  For  such  articles 
as  do  not  require  great  suppleness  or  softness  of  feel, 
the  action  of  the  soap  may  be  enhanced  by  the  ad- 
dition of  a  small  quantity  of  potash. 

Soft  potash  soaps  may  be  usefully  employed  in 
solution  together  with  giim-arabic  or  other  mucilag- 
inous matters,  for  cleaning  dyed  goods  and  especially 
self-colored  silks.  This  composition  is  preferable  to 
white  or  marbled  soaps,  as  it  removes  the  spots  better 
and  attacks  the  colors  much  less. 

BLEACHING   PROCESSES   APPLICABLE    TO    SPOTTING. 

When  in  spotting  nothing  can  be  done  by  means 
of  solvents  such  as  benzine,  alcohol,  carbon  tetra- 
chloride, ether,  etc.,  recourse  is  had  to  bleaching, 
though  many  cleaners  do  not  care  to  do  so,  fearing 
loss  of  color.  However,  every  cleaner  should  under- 
stand the  dyes  he  has  to  deal  with.  All  basic  dye- 
stuffs  such  as  rhodamine  can  without  hesitation  be 
bleached  with  potassium  permanganate  and  sulphur- 
ous acid.  To  be  sure,  pale  places  will  sometimes  be 
found.     In  green  articles  the  places  remain  yellow, 


126      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

but  by  dabbing  the  bleached  stains  with  acetic  acid 
and  drawing  over  the  steamer,  the  original  color  is 
restored. 

The  following  bleaches  may  often  be  used  to  good 
advantage  for  spotting  purposes.  Whenever  their  use 
is  contemplated  the  spotter  must  first  test  them  on  the 
fabric,  if  it  is  colored,  to  make  sure  that  it  v^-ill  not 
damage  the  dye: 

For  white  cotton  goods:  permanganate  of  potash,  bi- 
sulphite of  soda,  calcium  hypochlorite  perborate  of 
soda,  hypochlorite  of  soda  and  hydrogen  pero.xide. 

For  colored  wool  and  silk  goods:  Hydrosulphite  of 
soda. 

For  white  wool  and  silh:  Permanganate  of  potash, 
bisulphite  of  soda,  hydrosulphite  of  soda,  perborate 
of  soda,  hydrogen  peroxide. 

Of  the  above  bleaches,  when  x-iewed  from  the  manner 
in  which  they  attack  stains,  tlie  most  active  is  sodium 
hypochlorite,  with  permanganate  of  potash  a  close 
second.     Perborate  is  the  lea,st  active. 

Bisulphite  of  soda  may  be  had  either  in  the  form  of 
a  white  powder  or  a  colorless  liquid,  and  is  used  for 
spotting  purposes  in  combination  with  a  small  amount 
of  suljihuric  acid.  The  active  bleaching  agent  is  sul- 
phur dioxide. 

Sodium  hypochlorite,  eau  de  Javelle,  is  produced  by  the 
addition  of  a  soda  ash  solution  to  a  solution  of  chloride 
of  lime.  It  is  used  for  bleaching  and  six)tting  in  the 
same  manner  as  chloride  of  lime.  A  further  descrip- 
tion of  eau  de  Javelle  is  given  in  another  part  of  this 
work.    On  account  of  its  destructive  action  on  colors, 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  1 27 

this  product  should  be  used  only  on  white  goods,  it 
being  practically  impossible  to  remove  a  color  stain 
from  a  light-colored  garment  with  it  without  damaging 
the  ground  color. 

Perborate  of  soda  is  especially  to  be  recommended  for 
the  removal  of  perspiration  stains.  It  has  but  a  mild 
action  on  colors,  a'  great  many  dyes  being  but  slightly 
affected  by  it.  When  perborate  is  dissolved  in  water 
it  splits  up  into  hydrogen  peroxide  and  borax  or  into 
free  oxygen  and  sodium  metaborate.  However,  in 
whichever  manner  it  splits  up  approximately  10  per 
cent,  of  free  oxygen  is  liberated.  Perborate  of  sodium 
is  a  very  efficient  spotting  agent  and  is  capable  of  re- 
placing the  other  peroxides  and  permanganates  in  the 
cleaner's  work.  Due  to  its  properties  and  the  ease  with 
which  it  may  be  used,  there  can  be  no  doubt  but  that 
it  will  come  into  almost  universal  use  and  replace  many 
of  the  other  chemicals  that  are  now  used  for  bleaching 
and  spotting  purposes.  Stains  caused  by  wine,  grass, 
chocolate,  coffee,  and  others  that  must  be  treated  by 
an  oxidizing  agent  readily  yield  to  perborate.  Stains 
caused  by  hair  dyes,  developers,  iron  inks,  should  not 
be  treated  with  this  bleach,  as  the  oxidizing  action  tends 
to  fasten  these  stains  rather  than  remove  them.  Color 
stains  on  colored  fabrics  may  generally  be  removed 
with  perborate  without  damaging  the  ground  color 
of  the  fabric. 

Bleaching  with  potassium  permanganate  will  first  be 
considered.  When  a  fabric  of  cotton,  wool  or  silk  is 
dabbed  at  the  ordinary  temperature  of  a  room  with 
the  red  solution  of  potassitim  permanganate,  the  latter 


128      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

is  immediately  reduced  and  a  brovsii  stain  of  manganese 
hydroxide  is  formed.  The  reaction  can  be  expressed 
by  the  equation: 

2KMn04       =    2Mn;0,    +     KjO       +     3O 
Potassium  Manganic  Potassium  Oxygen, 

permanganate.         oxide.  oxide 

the  manganese  oxide  combming  w\ih  water  to  form  the 
hydroxide. 

In  the  warm,  the  reaction  proceeds  as  follows: 

2KMnO    =     2Mn02     +      KoQ      +        3O 
Potassium         Manganese        Potassium  Oxygen, 

permanganate.       peroxide  oxide. 

the  manganese  peroxide  in  this  case  forming  the  hy- 
drated  jieroxide  by  combining  with  water. 

Reducing  effect  of  carbon  dioxide.  If  the  brown  stain 
be  touched  with  a  solution  of  sulohur  dioxide  (sulphur- 
ous acid),  the  bleaching  effect  of  the  potassium  per- 
manganate becomes  apparent.  The  sulphur  dioxide 
by  its  powerful  reducing  action  deoxidizes  the  brown 
manganese  peroxide  or  hydroxide,  to  manganous  oxide 
or  hydroxide,  while  the  sulphurous  acid  itself  is  oxidized 
to  sulphuric  acid.  The  latter  combines  with  the  man- 
ganous oxide  to  form  manganous  sulphate,  a  nearly 
colorless  salt,  which  can  be  readily  washed  out  of  the 
fabric  \v\\h  water.  lea\nng  the  site  of  the  stain  bleached 
a  pure  white,  and  thus  demonstrating  the  bleaching 
action  of  permanganic  acid. 

If  the  quantity  of  sulphurous  acid  used  be  too  small. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  1 29 

it  may  happen  that  a  brownish  stain  is  left,  because  the 
permanganate  has  not  been  completely  oxidized.  An 
excess  of  sulphurous  acid  used  must  be  completely  re- 
moved by  washing,  or  it  will  be  gradually  oxidized  to 
sulphuric  acid  on  the  fabric,  the  fibers  being  then  in 
time  corroded  and  rendered  brittle.  This  may  occur 
at  once  if  the  fabric  be  ironed. 

Reduciion  with  hydrogen  peroxide.  By  the  man- 
ganic peroxide  which,  as  previously  mentioned,  ap- 
pears upon  the  tissue  in  the  form  of  a  brown  stain, 
hydrogen  peroxide  is  by  mere  contact  action  imme- 
diately decomposed  to  water  and  bleaching  oxygen 
(H2O2  =  H2O  +  O)  an  increased  bleach  being  thus 
obtained. 

It  is  also  conceivable  that  an  insoluble  laj^er  of 
manganic  peroxide  is  formed  upon  the  fabric  which 
does  not  allow  the  complete  decomposition  of  the 
excess  of  potassium  permanganate  used  upon  the 
fiber.  It  may  further  happen  that  the  permanganate 
on  coming  in  contact  with  hydrogen  peroxide  is  re- 
duced, so  that  subsequently  the  bleaching  oxygen 
acts  from  two  sides  upon  the  stained  portion  of  the 
fabric.  The  object  of  the  addition  of  acid  to  the  hy- 
drogen peroxide  is  also  to  form  a  readily  soluble  salt 
with  the  manganous  oxide  formed  by  the  reduction 
of  the  peroxide. 

For  the  reasons  mentioned  above,  sulphurous  acid 
which  in  hydrogen  peroxide  is  also  rapidly  oxidized 
to  sulphuric  acid  and,  at  the  same  time,  w^ould  absorb 
a  large  portion  of  the  peroxide  for  its  own  oxidation, 
is  not  used  in  the  modem  method. 


IJO      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Fonnic  add  and  acetic  add  which  have  been  pro- 
posed, also  undergo  p>artial  oxidation  in  hydrogen 
peroxide  solutions,  so  that  the  mixture  needs  to  be 
used  in  a  fresh  state.    The  action  is,  however,  too  slow. 

In  some  establishments  phosphoric  add  and  oxalic 
add  are  also  vised.  However,  these  two  adds  form, 
with  manganous  oxide,  salts — manganese  oxalate  and 
manganese  phosphate — which  dissolve  with  great  diffi- 
culty in  water,  and  are  even  in  ver>-  dilute  solutions 
ver>-  difficult  of  removal  from  the  fabrics  by  rinsing. 
The  use  of  oxalic  add  must  be  entirely  rejected,  be- 
cause, independent  of  the  fact  that  the  combination 
formed  dissolves  with  great  difficulty,  a  portion  of 
the  add  is,  on  the  one  hand,  lost,  as  regards  the  effect 
of  the  solution,  on  coming  in  contact  with  the  man- 
ganic pero.xide,  carbonic  add  escaping,  while,  on  the 
other,  oxalic  add  may,  tmder  certain  conditions,  exert 
the  same  injurious  effect  upon  the  fabrics  as  sulphuric 
add. 

Phosphoric  add  is  not  attacked  by  hydrogen  per- 
oxide and  \*ice  versa,  and  remains  xmchanged  on 
coming  together  with  manganic  peroxide.  Since  phos- 
phoric add  acts  completely  and  fully  as  a  soh'ent  upon 
the  manganous  oxide  and  the  add  phosphate  formed 
dissolves  with  greater  ease  than  the  oxalate,  its  use 
may  deserve  consideration. 

The  above-mentioned  subsequent  treatment  of  the 
'.  n  stain  of  manganic  peroxide  may  be  effected 

:.:  pure  hydrogen  peroxide  solution,  or  by  peroxide 
liberated  from  sodium  peroxide,  or  oxygenol  by  mixing 
with  an  add. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I3I 

Reduction  with  hydrosulphurous  acid.  In  all  esses 
where  the  use  of  sulphurous  acid  is  not  admissible, 
A.  Seyda  uses  hydrosulphurous  acid.  It  is  prepared 
as  needed,  by  shaking,  for  instance,  50  cubic  centi- 
meters of  concentrated  sodium  bisulphite  solution, 
diluted  with  the  same  quantity  of  water,  with  a  knife- 
pointful  of  zinc  dust.  When  reaction  is  complete, 
dilute  the  mixture  with  water,  shake,  and  filter  im- 
mediately through  cotton.  Add  to  the  filtrate  about 
20  to  40  cc.  of  acetic  acid  together  with  100  cc.  of 
boiling  hot  water,  and  use  the  mixture  as  reducing 
agent.  It  may  be  remarked  that  hydrosulphuric  acid 
in  aqueous  solution  quickly  decomposes. 

Seyda  gives  a  method  suitable  for  spotting  in  the 
cold  way,  as  follows: 

1.  A  mixture  of  commercial  hj^drogen  peroxide 
with  an  equal  volume  of  10  per  cent,  acetic  acid  im- 
mediately   dissolves   the   manganous    acid,    relatively 

4  the  potassium  permanganate  reduced  upon  the  fabric. 

2.  A  serviceable  reducing  Hquor  may  be  prepared 
from  sodivim  peroxide  as  follows:  Dissolve  100  cubic 
centimeters  of  dilute  sulphuric  acid  (i  part  acid  to  5 
parts  water),  one  teaspoonful  of  sodium  peroxide,  add, 
if  necessary,  enough  of  the  latter  for  the  solution  to 
show  a  slightly  alkaHne  reaction,  then  add  the  same 
volume  of  10  per  cent,  acetic  acid  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  ammoniimi  chloride.  The  chemicals  should  be 
added  in  the  order  given. 

3.  From  oxygenol  a  reducing  Hquor  is  prepared 
as  follows:  Put  in  a  glass  of  about  200  cubic  centi- 
meters   capacity,    i    teaspoonful    of    oxygenol    and    i 


132   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

teaspoonful  of  ammonium  chloride.  Then  add  loo 
ex:,  of  water  and  loo  cc.  of  lo  per  cent,  acetic  add. 
The  solution  soon  becomes  clear.  By  the  addition 
of  ammonium  chloride,  the  solution  of  the  manganic 
oxide  in  the  acetic  acid  is  more  rapidly  effected. 

The  solution  prepared  with  sodium  peroxide  acts 
more  sluggishly  than  the  oxygenol  solution.  The 
reason  for  this  must  be  sought  in  the  larger  content 
of  salt  (sodiimi  sulphate)  by  which  the  solution  of 
even  slight  quantities  of  manganic  oxide  is  percepti- 
bly impaired.  This  also  is  the  only  explanation  why 
with  the  use  of  hydrogen  peroxide  the  addition  of 
ammonitun  chloride  may  be  omitted.  The  above- 
mentioned  solution  contains  5  per  cent,  acetic  acid; 
it  should  not  be  stronger  than  this,  as  othen^-ise  the 
colors  are  injuriously  affected  in  spotting  dyed  goods. 
Formic  acid  may  be  used  in  place  of  acetic  acid.  By 
means  of  the  described  method  stains  of  the  most  vary- 
ing kinds  can  be  removed  from  white  and  undyed 
fabrics,  as  well  as  from  light-colored  goods  which  have 
been  dyed  with  rhodamine,  alizarine  blue  and  chr>*30- 
phenine.  If  due  care  is  not  obscr\-ed  in  spotting  dyed 
goods  it  may  happen  that  the  dye-stuff  is  bleached  to- 
gether with  the  stain  and  the  place  treated  appears 
white.  The  only  remedy  in  such  a  case  is  re-dyeing  the 
bleached  portion  \\-ith  a  suitalile  dy^stuff  solution. 
The  beha\nor  of  dyed  goods  towards  hydrogen  peroxide 
will  be  referred  to  later  on  in  s|)eaking  of  hydrogen 
peroxide  as  a  spotting  agent. 

Bleaching  with  potassium  permanganate  is  frequent- 
ly employed  in  connection  with  other  spotting  agents. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I33 

As  previously  mentioned,  bleaching  is  effected  by 
dabbing  the  stain  with  potassium  permanganate  solu- 
tion and  dissolving  the  reduced  manganese  oxide. 

Combined  method  of  removing  stains.  Obstinate  stains 
may  be  removed,  especially  from  white  goods,  by  the 
following  method:  First  remove  the  fatty  substances 
by  means  of  a  solvent,  best  carbon  tetrachloride,  and 
then  moisten  the  stains,  one  after  the  other,  without 
previous  washing,  with  undiluted  ammonia,  oxygenol 
solution  and  oxalic  acid  solution.  After  the  latter 
treatment,  wash  thoroughly,  wipe  off,  damp  with 
alcohol,  especially  with  silk  articles,  and  then  dr}^ 
completely.  Only  old  stains  withstand  this  treatment. 
To  remove  them  bleaching  with  permanganate  is 
made  use  of,  hydrogen  peroxide  with  acetic  or  for- 
mic acid  (see  above)  being  employed  for  after-treat- 
ment. This  method  is  at  present  frequently  used  in 
the  practice, "  though  it  may  be  objected  to  on  the 
ground  that  the  fabric  is  always  endangered  by  oxalic 
acid.  It  has  further  been  shown  that  brownish  stains 
due  to  the  action  of  light  and  air  are  after  some  time 
formed  on  the  places  treated  with  oxalic  acid  and 
oxygenol  solutions.  It  would  therefore  be  better  to 
substitute  in  the  first  treatment  formic  or  acetic  acid 
for  the  oxalic  acid. 

Use  of  Hyraldite  in  spotting.  Under  the  trade  name 
of  Hyraldite  A  a  very  stable  combination  of  sodium 
hydrosulphite  with  formaldehyde  is  found  in  com- 
merce. It  forms  a  white  mass,  readily  soluble  in  cold, 
as  well  as  in  hot,  water,  the  solutions  being  very  stable 
in  a  neutral,  as  well  as  alkaline,  state.    However,  on  the 


134      ^^^'    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

addition  of  sodium  bisulphite,  acetic  add  or  any  other 
acid,  sodium  hydrosulphite  spHts  off,  which  shows  ener- 
getic reducing'  action.  On  this  projjerty  dcixjnds  the 
use  of  Hyraldite  A  for  stripi:)inj4  colors  from  dyed 
goods.     This  will  be  referred  to  later  on. 

HjTaldite  is,  however,  also  suitable  for  the  removal 
of  color  stains.  Dissolve  a  small  quantity  of  H>Tal- 
dite — about  the  size  of  a  walnut — in  about  loo  cubic 
centimeters  of  water  acidulated  with  15  drops  of  10 
per  cent,  acetic  acid  and  previously  heated  to  boiling. 
Colored  stains  disappear  by  dipping  for  a  few  seconds 
the  portion  of  the  fabric  containing  them  in  the  warm 
solution.  Another  mode  of  operation  is  as  follows: 
Place  the  article,  for  instance,  a  white  silk  waist  stained 
under  the  arms  with  colored  jxTspiration  stains,  upon 
a  small  steamer,  damp  the  stains  with  H>Taldite  solu- 
tion, and  steam.  The  stains  will  in  most  cases  disap- 
pear. Either  one  of  these  methods  is  available  for 
white  goods  as  well  as  for  fabrics  dyed  with  rhodamine, 
alkali  blue,  and  chrysopheninc.  Before  attempting 
the  removal  of  color  stains  from  light  or  dark  colored 
goods  dyed  with  other  dye  stutTs,  the  behavior  of  the 
ground  color  towards  Hyraldite  should  be  tested.  By 
means  of  H>Taldite  solution  of  suitable  concentration 
and  with  careful  treatment,  it  will  in  most  cases  be 
possible  to  remove  coloring  matter  mechanically  ad- 
hering to  the  fabric  without  injury  to  the  ground  color. 

It  sometimes  haj^ix^ns  that  in  removing  color  stains 
from  white  goods  witli  Hyraldite,  n'cUow  stains  remain 
behind;  these  can  be  removed  with  warm  Oxygenol 
solution. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING,  135 

Hydrogen  peroxide  as  a  spotting  agent.  Hydrogen 
peroxide,  H2O2,  is  the  combination  richest  in  oxygen 
which  exists  between  hydrogen  and  oxygen.  A  re- 
markable characteristic  of  hydrogen  peroxide  is  the 
ease  with  which  it  decomposes  to  water  and  oxygen. 
Hydrogen  peroxide  is  a  colorless  liquid  of  syrupy  con- 
sistency and  evaporates  on  exposure  to  the  air;  in 
slightly  alkaline  solutions  it  will  keep  for  quite  a  long 
time. 

Commercial  solutions  of  hydrogen  peroxide  contain 
as  a  rule  about  3  per  cent,  by  weight  of  hydrogen 
peroxide  corresponding  to  about  10  to  12  per  cent,  by 
volume.  It  contains  sometimes,  besides  a  slight  ex- 
cess of  phosphoric  acid,  a  small  quantity  of  sodium 
sulphate,  and  a  little  magnesium  chloride  or  sodiimi 
chloride. 

By  the  addition  of  phosphoric  acid  and  sodium 
chloride  the  stability  of  the  hydrogen  peroxide  solution 
is  improved.  Hydrogen  peroxide  keeps  best  at  a  low 
temperature,  in  a  dark  place,  and  in  the  presence  of 
small  quantities  of  acid.  Its  stability  is  improved  by 
the  addition  of  about  15  grains  of  naphthalene  or 
3^  oz.  of  alcohol  to  the  quart. 

In  order  to  use  commercial  hydrogen  peroxide  (10 
per  cent,  by  volume)  for  spotting,  prepare  first  a  bleach- 
ing liquor  consisting  of  equal  parts  of  hydrogen  peroxide 
and  pure  water.  Heat  the  bath  to  nearly  the  boiling- 
point,  compound  it  with  sodium  siHcate  till  it  shows 
an  alkaline  reaction,  and  then  add  a  small  quantity 
of  white  castile  soap  shavings.  Dab  the  stains  with 
this  hot  bleaching  liquor  till  they  are  bleached.     For 


136   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

dabbing  use  a  txift  of  cotton  wrapped  roxrnd  a  wooden 
stick,  as  hydrogen  peroxide  makes  white  stains  upon 
the  skin.  The  moisture  must  of  course,  from  time  to 
time,  be  taken  up  with  cotton,  as  otherwise  too  large 
a  surface  would  be  affected. 

In  spotting,  hydrogen  peroxide,  to  be  sure,  is  mostly 
used  for  after-treatment,  after  potassitun  permanga- 
nate, but  there  are  many  cases  in  which  it  may  be  direct- 
I3'  employed  to  advantage. 

After  the  stained  places  have  been  treated  with 
commercial  hydrogen  peroxide,  it  is  adN-isable  to 
hang  up  the  articles  for  several  hours  exposed  to 
light  and  air.  frequently  moistening  them  during 
this  time,  and  then,  after  again  moistening  the  stains 
with  hydrogen  peroxide,  to  dr\'  the  articles  in  a 
heated  drjnng-room. 

When  by  this  method  the  stains  appear  sufficiently 
bleached,  brush  thoroughly  with  water  and  treat  with 
dilute  acetic  acid.  Then  brush  again  thoroughly  with 
water,  and  finally  dry. 

Cofee  and  cliocoUUe  stains,  which  resist  other  treat- 
ment, can  be  removed  by  rcjx'ated  dabbing  and  slight 
rubbing  with  the  above-mentioned  preparation. 

Sometimes,  especially  in  the  case  of  larg*  stains,  a 
few  drops  of  the  preparation  should  for  a  short  time 
be  allowed  to  act  upon  the  stains,  and  the  liquid  then 
be  taken  up  with  cotton.  With  the  use  of  pure  hydro- 
gen peroxide  previous  dabbing  of  the  stains  with  am- 
monia, or  an  addition  of  ammonia  to  the  peroxide  is 
adxnsable.  By  the  use  of  hydrogen  peroxide  solution 
compounded  with  ammonia,  grass,  beer  and  milk  stains. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  137 

as  well  as  stains  caused  by  Jruii  juices,  can  be  removed. 
After  treating  the  stains,  dry  thoroughly,  especially  in 
handling  light-colored  goods,  with  a  white  woolen  rag 
in  order  to  avoid  rings. 

Stains  due  to  red  wine  can  be  removed  with  hydro- 
gen peroxide  solution  (without  ammonia).  For  the 
removal  of  blood  stains  a  hydrogen  peroxide  solution 
compounded  with  a  small  quantity  of  pure  ammonia 
is  very  suitable.  This  solution  serves  also  for  the 
removal  of  ink  stains  by  repeated  dabbing,  but  in 
the  case  of  iron  inks  previous  careful  dabbing  of  the 
stains  with  hydrochloric  acid  is  required.  Rust  stains 
should  be  repeatedly  dabbed  with  hydrochloric  acid, 
whereby  yellow  ferric  chloride  is  formed.  The  latter 
is  removed  as  much  as  possible  with  cotton,  and  the 
remaining  yellow  stain  is  then  dabbed  with  hydrogen 
peroxide  until  it  disappears.  Finally  wash  with  water 
in  the  case  of  woolen,  cotton,  and  linen  goods;  in  the 
case  of  silk  goods  rub  with  some  distilled  water. 

Mold  stains  and  yellow  and  brown  stains,  such  as 
are  frequently  found  in  white  fabrics,  can  in  many 
cases  be  removed  with  hydrogen  peroxide;  sometimes 
it  may  be  necessary  to  first  dab  the  stains  carefully 
with  dilute  hydrochloric  acid. 

Stains  due  to  tar  or  axle  grease  can  in  many  cases 
be  removed  by  treatment  with  the  above-mentioned 
hydrogen  peroxide  solution,  compounded  with  sodium 
silicate  and  soap,  or  hydrogen  peroxide  solution  com- 
pounded with  ammonia,  and  subsequent  sponging  with 
warm  soap  solution. 

With  the  previously  mentioned  bleaching  liquor,  or 


138      DRY    CLEAN  KR,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

equal  parts  of  hydrogen  peroxide  and  water,  stained 
ii'hite  gloves  may  be  cleaned.  However,  the  following 
process  may  also  be  employed:  First  wash,  for  in- 
stance, white  buckskin  gloves,  in  a  lukewarm  fat 
castile  soap  bath  and  then  rinse  thoroughly  in  soft 
water.  The  gloves  are  then  treated  in  a  just  foaming 
castile  soap  bath  to  which  3  per  cent,  hydrogen  peroxide 
has  been  added.  They  are  then  extracted  and  slowly 
dried  in  an  air>'  place.  By  the  hydrogen  peroxide  a 
beautiful  white  is  obtained  on  the  leather,  and  the 
residual  soap  restores  pliability.  \Mien  dr>-  the  gloves 
can  be  rendered  more  supple  by  energetic  rubbing. 

Since  the  ordinar>'  commercial  hydrogen  peroxide 
(10  to  12  per  cent,  by  volume)  cannot  remove  obsti- 
nate stains,  a  stronger  solution  is  sometimes  used  in 
chemical  cleaning,  especially  for  ink  stains  and  the 
yellow-brown  markings  caused  by  perfumes. 

Owing  to  the  bleaching  aclion  of  hydrogen  f)eroxide 
on  dyes  it  is  largely  used  for  eradicating  stains  on 
.white  fabrics,  but  long  experience  has  shown  that  its 
application  is  by  no  means  restricted  to  this  class  of 
material. 

Behavior  of  hydrogen  peroxide  towards  colored  fabrics. 
In  the  above-mentioned  experiments  a  number  of 
articles  of  wool,  half- wool,  cotton,  silk  and  half -silk 
were  exposed  for  a  short  time  (the  same  as  in  spotting) 
to  the  action  of  hydrogen  jx^roxide  solution  with  and 
without  the  addition  of  ammonia.  The  colored  goods 
stained,  for  instance,  with  ink  or  rust,  also  were  in 
many  cases  carefully  treated  with  hydrochloric  acid 
and  hydrogen  peroxide  solution  in  order  to  ascertain 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  1 39 

in  what  manner  a  change  in  the  shade  of  the  color 
may  take  place. 

Of  the  thirteen  articles  dyed  with  basic  dye-stuifs 
those  which  had  been  dyed  with  Saffranine,  Rhodo- 
mine,  New  Methylene  Gray,  Methylene  Green,  Inda- 
mine  Blue  and  Malachite  Green  proved  resistant,  as 
they  did  not  lose  color  by  rubbing  and  no  change  in 
shades  took  place. 

Although  resorcine  dye-stuffs,  such  as  Eosine,  Ery- 
throsine,  etc.,  cannot  lay  claim  to  fastness,  the  articles 
dyed  with  them  showed  neither  loss  of  color  with 
gentle  rubbing,  nor  a  change  in  the  shades. 

Of  the  thirteen  articles  dyed  with  acid  dye-stuffs, 
those  dyed  wdth  Acid  Violet,  Keton  Blue,  Patent  Blue, 
Fast  Acid  Blue,  Violamine,  Fast  Acid  Violet,  and 
Nigrosine,  showed  no  loss  of  color,  and  no  change  in 
the  shades  was  noticed. 

Of  the  ten  samples  which  were  dyed  \Nith  ten  dif- 
ferent nitro  and  azo  dyeing  stuffs,  such  as  Azo  Yellow, 
Bordeaux,  Cloth-red,  Fast  Brown,  etc.,  only  the  sample 
dyed  with  Fast  Red  suffered  a  slight  loss  of  color  by 
the  action  of  the  hydrogen  peroxide  in  rubbing. 

Of  the  fourteen  articles  dyed  with  mordanted  dye- 
stiiffs,  such  as  Alizarine  Blue,  Alizarine  Yellow,  Aliza- 
rine Black,  Coerulein,  Acid  Alizarine  Green,  etc.,  all 
proved  resistant  when  rubbed  after  treatment  and  no 
changes  in  color  took  place,  except  the  samples  dyed 
with  Alizarine  Brown  and  Alizarine  Green. 

Among  the  dyes  for  wool  intended  to  stand  milling, 
those  prepared  with  Anthracene  Yellow  and  chromium 
fluoride  or  potassium  chromate  were  tested  as  follows: 


I40   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Hydrogen  peroxide  solution  wth  an  addition  of  am- 
monia was  allowed  to  act  on  portions  stained  ^^^th 
ink.  The  stains  disappeared  without  any  loss  or  change 
of  color  on  the  part  of  the  fabric. 

From  articles  dyed  with  Milling  Yellow  and  with 
Anthracene  Acid  Brown  (mordanced  with  potassium 
chromate,  ink  stains  (iron  ink)  were  removed  by 
treatment  x^ath  hydrochloric  acid  and  hydrogen  per- 
oxide; in  the  first  case  the  color  was  changed  by  the 
hydrochloric  acid  to  brown,  and  in  the  latter,  to  black. 
The  original  color  was.  however,  restored  by  the  action 
of  the  hydrogen  peroxide.  From  articles  dyed  wth 
Milling  Red  and  %\'ith  Wool-red.  various  kinds  of  stains 
were  removed  by  means  of  Indrochloric  acid  and  hydro- 
gen peroxide  without  loss  of  color  or  a  change  in  shades. 
A  fabric  dyed  with  AUzarine  Blue  was  not  changed 
by  hydrochloric  acid  and  hydrogen  ^)eroxide.  Articles 
dyed  with  Milling  Yellow.  Alizarine  Blue.  Diamine  Fast 
Red  (with  chrome  potash),  Wool-red.  Anthracite 
Black.  Anthracene  Acid  Black,  and  Anthracene  Acid 
Brown  (with  chrome  potash)  showed  themselves  en- 
tirely indifferent  towards  the  action  of  hydrogen 
peroxide  (with  ammonia),  and  there  was  neither  loss 
of  color  nor  change  in  shades.  By  treatment  with 
hydrogen  peroxide  only  about  23  per  cent,  of  the  tested 
articles  lost  more  or  less  color  by  rubbing. 

According  to  the  results  of  the  above-mentioned 
ex])eriments.  which  on  the  whole  arc  very  favorable, 
hydrogen  peroxide  may  also  be  used  in  s]K)tting  colored 
goods,  provided  due  caie  is  observed. 

Oxygenol  as  a  spotting  agent.     Oxygenol  is  an  odor- 


REMOVAL   OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I4I 

less  white  powder  soluble  in  water,  the  solution  show- 
ing distinctly  an  alkaline  reaction.  When  dissolved  in 
water  Oxygenol  yields  its  oxygen,  and  to  increase  the 
evolution  of  the  latter,  the  temperature  of  the  water 
used  for  solution  should  be  between  86°  and  104°  F. 
By  maintaining  this  temperature  the  oxygen  is  not 
too  energetically  evolved,  and  its  bleaching  effect  is 
thus  utilized  to  the  utmost.  If  the  solution  is  heated 
to  above  140°  F.,  the  oxygen  is  evolved  too  rapidly,  and 
at  the  boiling-point  escapes  entirely. 

For  spotting  purposes  Oxygenol  is  suitable  only  for 
the  removal  of  stains  from  white  articles.  Many  such 
stains  can  be  removed  by  repeatedly  treating  them 
with  Oxygenol  solution  heated  to  from  113°  to  122°  F., 
2-5  to  1-2  oz.  of  Oxygenol  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  water 
being  very  suitable  for  the  purpose.  In  the  practice 
about  2  to  3  tablespoonfuls  of  Oxygenol  to  one  quart 
of  water  are  frequently  used.  In  spotting,  a  mixture 
consisting  of  3^^  ozs.  Oxygenol  to  one  quart  of  water, 
and  about  ^4  oz.  of  formic  acid  or  3^  ozs.  acetic  acid 
is  sometimes  used.  It  is  suitable  for  carefully  dabbing 
the  stained  fabrics  at  the  ordinary  temperature.  It 
may  also  be  employed  for  after-treatment  (after  the 
permanganate  process). 

When  the  removal  of  the  stains  with  hot  Oxygenol 
solution  is  not  possible,  strip  them  first  with  Hyraldite 
and  then  treat  them  with  hot  Oxygenol  solution  until 
they  disappear. 

Fruit  and  coffee  5/am5 'yield  quickly  to  hot  concen- 
trated Oxygenol  solution;  cacao  stains  disappear  only 
after  repeated  treatment. 


142      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DVFR. 

Red  wine  stains  are  first  bleached  with  potassium 
permanganate  and  subsequently  repeatedly  treated 
with  hot  Oxygenol  solution. 

Blood  stains  are  removed  with  comparative  ease  and 
in  a  short  time.  For  the  removal  of  rust  and  ink  stains 
Oxygenol  solution  appears  to  Idc  less  suitable.  On  the 
other  hand,  it  can  be  successfully  used  for  getting  rid 
of  scorched  places,  yellow  stains  and  edges  in  cotton 
fabrics,  laces,  etc. 

As  previously  stated  Oxygenol  is  chiefly  used  for  the 
removal  of  stains  from  white  fabrics.  Since  its  solu- 
tion, similar  to  that  of  hydrogen  peroxide,  exerts,  ac- 
cording to  its  concentration,  a  more  or  less  bleaching 
effect,  dyed  articles  may  be  attacked  by  it.' 

Behavior  of  Oxygenol  towards  colored  articles.  To  test 
the  behavior  of  Oxygenol  in  this  respect,  experiments 
were  made  with  dyed  wool  and  cotton  goods.  It  was 
found  that,  generally  speaking,  warm  Oxygenol  solu- 
tion exerts  a  somewhat  stronger  bleaching  effect  than 
ordinary  commercial  hydrogen  peroxide  solution.  Of 
cotton  goods  dyed  with  aniline  colors  only  those  proved 
quite  resistant  to  lukewarm  Oxygenol  solution  which 
were  dyed  with  new  gray  indophenin,  bismarck  brown, 
new  fast  blue  and  new  fast  gray.  Of  woolen  fabrics 
dyed  with  milling  fast  dye-stuffs,  the  action  of  Oxygenol 
solution  heated  to  1 13°  F., which  evolved  oxygen  quite 
energetically,  was  resisted  only  by  such  as  were  dyed 
with  alizarine  blue,  diamine  scarlet,  wool-red,  an- 
thracene acid  brown  (with  chrome  potash),  anthracene 
black,  and  anthracene  acid  black.  Woolen  goods  dyed 
with  milling  yellow  and  with  milling  red  proved  quite 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I43 

resistant  when  treated  with  Oxygenol  solution,  yielding 
but  little  coloring  matter  on  rubbing,  and  those  dyed 
with  anthracene  yellow  and  milling  yellow  showed  still 
greater  resistance  even  on  rubbing. 

The  results  of  the  above-mentioned  experiments  show 
that  Oxygenol  is  especially  suitable  for  the  removal  of 
stains  from  white  fabrics. 

Sodium  peroxide  as  a  spotting  and  washing  agent. 
Sodium  peroxide  may  be  used  in  spotting  in  place  of 
hydrogen  peroxide.  It  is  found  in  commerce  in  the 
form  of  a  grayish-yellow  granular  powder,  which 
readily  dissolves  in  water  with  the  generation  of  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  heat  and  some  loss  of  oxygen. 

The  bleaching  liquor  for  spotting  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows: Pour  ^4  oz.  of  formic  acid  or  3^  ozs.  of  acetic 
acid  into  i  quart  of  water,  and  gradually  bring  into 
this  mixture,  stirring  constantly,  4)4  ozs.  of  sodium 
peroxide.  Allow  the  mixture  to  stand  about  one  hour 
before  use.  It  is  used  either  directly  or  after  potas- 
sivim  permanganate.  Instead  of  this  bleaching  liquor, 
the  following  may  also  be  advantageously  used,  es- 
pecially for  silk  fabrics:  Dissolve  in  i  quart  of  soft  or 
distilled  water  3^  oz.  of  epsom  salt,  then  bring  gradually 
into  the  solution,  stirring  constantly,  2  drachms  of 
sodium  peroxide,,  and  finally  add  i^  drachms  of 
sulphuric  acid.  Determine  accurately  by  meajis  of 
litmus  paper  the  reaction  of  the  fluid;  if  too  acid  add 
a  small  quantity  of  soditmi  peroxide,  or  if  too  alkaline 
add  a  little  acid  until  the  fluid  shows  an  entirely  neutral 
reaction.  Damp  the  stains  with  the  hot  liquor;  the 
latter  may  also  be  used  stronger. 


144      ^RY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Sodium  peroxide  is  also  used  in  washing,  a  suitable 
quantity  of  it  corresponding  to  the  number  of  articles 
being  added  to  the  wash-water  in  the  washing  machine. 

With  the  exception  of  ven*  obstinate  dye  stains, 
nearly  all  kinds  of  stains  in  clothes  can  be  removed 
by  the  use  of  sodium  jDcroxide.  Care  should  be  taken 
not  to  use  too  large  a  quantity  of  it,  as  otherwise  the 
fibers  of  the  fabrics  may  be  weakened.  On  account 
of  its  greater  content  of  active  oxygen,  sodium  peroxide 
acts  with  greater  intensity  than  Oxygenol.  Color 
stains  are  best  removed,  before  bleaching,  by  means  of 
hot  H>Taldite  solution. 

Sodium  peroxide  soap.  Beltzer*  recently  made  pu^:lic 
a  method  of  preparing  soap  containing  sodium  peroxide, 
the  production  of  which  is  based  on  the  property  of 
the  peroxide  for  forming  a  stable  dry  mixture  with 
anhydrides.  The  soap  is  made  from  acid  -castor  oil, 
rosin,  sodium  carbonate  and  sodium  silicate.  The 
strongly  alkaline  soap  po.wder  is  then  completely  dried 
and  thoroughly  mixed  with  dr>'  sodium  carbonate 
and  sodium  j^eroxide  in  a  rotary  mixer,  the  mass  being 
finally  made  into  cakes  in  a  hydraulic  press.  This 
soap  is  intended  for  textile  purposes,  such  as  bleaching 
raw  cotton,  raw  .flax,  ramie,  jute,  pelts  and  fur. 

Insofar  as  the  spotting  operation  is  concerned,  the 
cleaner  finds  the  bleaches  of  the  most  importance  for 
the  removal  of  color  stains.  Many  white  and  colored 
garments  that  have  been  stained  with  a  dye  under  the 
influence  of  perspiration  or  rain  are  given  up  as  hope- 
less of  correction,  when  by  the  use  of  the  proper  bleach- 

•Chemischcs  Centralblatt,  1907,  Band  II,  Scitc  1871. 


REMOVAL    OF    STAINS    OR    SPOTTING.  I45 

ing  agent  they  may  often  be  restored  to  their  original 
condition. 

The  problem  of  removing  colored  stains  must  be 
studied  from  two  angles :  The  removal  of  these  stains 
from  white  goods,  and  their  removal  from  colored  goods. 

Hypochlorite  of  soda  is  a  very  efficient  bleach  for 
removing  color  stains  from  white  cotton  garments. 
It  is  made  as  follows:  One  pound  of  chloride  of  lime 
is  made  into  a  paste  with  cold  water  and  is  then  diluted 
to  two  quarts.  Nine  and  one-half  ounces  of  soda  ash 
are  dissolved  in  1%  pints  of  hot  water  and  allowed 
to  cool.  The  two  solutions  are  then  mixed,  well  stirred, 
and  the  solid  matter  allowed  to  settle.  The  clear  liquid 
is  sodium  hypochlorite.  It  should  be  drawn  off  and 
kept  in  tightly  corked  bottles.  For  the  removal  of 
color  stains  and  for  other  spotting  operations  it  should 
be  diluted  until  it  shows  a  strength  of  from  2  to  4  de- 
grees Tw.  The  solution  should  be  used  cold  and  the 
operation  carried  out  without  any  loss  of  time.  When 
the  stain  has  disappeared,  the  portion  of  the  garment 
treated  should  be  rinsed  and  treated  with  one  of  the 
so-called  anti-chlors.  A  3  per  cent,  solution  of  hypo 
may  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

Permanganate  of  potash  and  bisulphite  serve  very 
well  for  removing  color  stains  from  white  wool  and 
silk  garments.  Its  characteristics  and  uses  have  been 
explained  in  a  preceding  portion  of  this  chapter. 
When  using  permanganate  as  an  agent  for  the  removal 
of  color  stains  it  is  good  practice  to  dissolve  a  few 
crystals  in  cold  water,  add  a  few  drops  of  sulphuric 
acid,  and  then  touch  the  portions  to  be  treated  with  a 


146      DRY    CLEANER     SCOURER     GARMENT   DYER. 

clean  stick  dipped  in  the  solution.  After  treating  the 
stains,  apply  a  3  per  cent,  solution  of  bisulphite  of 
soda,  after  which  rinse  well.  This  method  may  be  used 
with  safety  on  all  classes  of  white  goods. 

Hydrosulphite  of  soda  is  ver>'  generally  used  to  re- 
move color  stains  from  colored  fabrics.  It  is  on  the 
market  under  a  variety  of  trade  names,  among  which 
may  be  mentioned.  Kalol,  Bumiol,  Hydrosulphite 
Concentrated,  Hydrosulphite  AZ.  H>Taldite  Z,  and 
others.  These  compounds  are  of  two  classes,  distin- 
guished by  the  manner  in  which  they  work,  i — Those 
that  exert  their  reducing  action  in  a  neutral  or  alkaline 
bath,  and  2 — those  that  are  soluble  only  in  acid  baths 
and  that  exert  reducing  action  in  such  solution.  Those 
of  the  first  group  are  generolly  used  for  spotting  pur- 
poses; those  of  the  second  for  stripping  the  color  from 
entire  garments.  Those  of  the  first  group  are  not 
stable  in  solution  and  only  enough  of  the  powder  for 
immediate  needs  should  be  dissolved.  Hydrosulphite 
compounds  should  never  be  used  on  weighted  silks 
as  it  turns  them  gray. 


III. 


WET    CLEANING. 


Previous  to  wet  cleaning,  it  is  important  to  ascer- 
tain first  the  class  of  fibers  of  which  the  articles  are 
made.  It  is  sometimes  very  difficult  for  the  opera- 
tor to  determine  the  nature  of  a  fabric,  and  some 
directions  for  this  are  given  in  Section  XI,  "Analysis 
^f  Textile  Fabrics." 

An  article  made  of  wool  is  comparatively  easy  to 
wet  clean  providing  one  understands  the  work.  But 
many  fabrics  are  now  used  in  the  manufacture  of  ready- 
made  clothing  which  are  composed  of  a  mixture  of 
cotton  and  wool  in  varying  proportions.  Sometimes 
the  two  fibers  are  mingled  together  in  the  same  thread ; 
at  other  times  there  are  interwoven  threads  of  cotton 
and  wool.  Then  again  there  are  fancy  fabrics  in  which 
part  of  the  decorative  effect  is  obtained  by  using  silk, 
cotton,  artificial  silk  and  wool  threads  in  a  manner 
which  is  detrimental  to  successful  wet  cleaning.  The 
main  object  of  the  manufacturer  of  these  fancy  articles 
is  to  em.ploy  the  cotton  threads  in  preference  to  silk. 
The  latter  is  employed  only  for  the  purpose  of  deco- 
(  147  ) 


148      DRY    Cl.KANFR,    SCOLRER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

ration.  These  ^'oods  offer  jn"cat  difficulties  to  the 
cleaner  and  should  always  be  dr\'  cleaned. 

The  wet  jjrocess  of  cleaning  garments  is  fairly 
straightfonvard  work,  but  nevertheless  j^rcat  care  is 
required,  and  the  i^rtxrcss  has  to  be  modified  to  suit 
the  color  and  the  material  of  the  particular  garment 
being  cleaned.  The  two  great  dangers  which  must  be 
guarded  against  are  the  liabilities  of  damaging  the 
color  and  shrinking  the  fabric.  There  are  two  general 
methods  in  use  for  setting  colors  before  commencing 
cleaning,  although  neither  may  be  relied  u]X)n  under 
all  circumstances.  The  colors  on  cotton  goods  may 
sometimes  be  set  by  soaking  in  a  salt-water  bath.  For 
this  jjurpose  use  four  otmces  of  common  salt  to  each 
gallon  of  water.  For  setting  colors  on  wool  and  silk 
acetic  acid  is  used  in  the  pro]  portion  of  one  ounce  of 
acid  to  three  gallons  of  water. 

Tlie  best  grade  of  soap  to  use  for  wet  cleaning  is  a 
neutral  soap  which  has  either  a  soda  or  a  ix)tash  base. 
There  are  many  commercial  prc])arations  such  as  Uni- 
versal, Tetrapole,  etc.,  which  may  be  used  to  good 
pur]3ose  on  delicate  articles.  Soap-bark  is  also  used. 
The  jjcrfect  solubility  in  water  of  the  soa])  is  of  xntal 
importance ;  it  means  that  it  can  be  used  cold  and  rinsed 
with  cold  water,  but  for  this  jniq^ose  warm  rinses  are 
advised.  Cold  soap  liquors  agree  better  with  the  colors 
of  many  fancy  articles  than  hot  liquors,  as  the  latter 
may  cause  the  colors  to  bleed,  and  the  colors  may  fix 
themselves  on  other  ])arts  of  the  garments. 

One  of  the  greatest  faults  in  the  ])roccss  of  wet 
cleaning  of  colored  goods  is  interruption  of  the  work. 


-    ■  WET   CLEANING.  I49 

This  should  not  be  tolerated  when,  as  is  often  the  case, 
the  goods  may  be  waiting  to  be  extracted,  or  left  for 
hours  in  the  last  rinse  bath  under  the  mistaken  idea 
that  they  are  safe  by  the  time  they  have  been  hardened, 
and  then  left  in  a  cold-water  rinse.  Many  dyes  which 
hold  well  in  soap  bleed  in  water,  and  spread  to  other 
parts  of  the  same  article,  or  even  to  other  articles  in 
contact  with  them.  It  is  anything  but  uncommon  for 
goods  to  come  faultless  from  the  soap  washing,  and  to 
show  all  manner  of  dye  stains  after  rinsing.  Time  and 
trouble  are  both  saved  by  the  goods  when  once  their 
treatment  is  begun,  being  finished  with  the  greatest 
possible  expedition.  If  there  is  any  tendency  towards 
shrinkage  the  process  should  be  carried  out  at  as  low 
a  temperature  as  possible.  Also  rough  treatment  of 
woolen  goods  should  be  avoided  so  as  not  to  cause 
felting. 

A  very  important  point  in  wet  cleaning  is: 
Water.  It  should  be  pure  and  soft  and  especially 
free  from  lime  and  iron.  Soft  river  water  and  rain 
water  are  most  preferable  to  use,  as  well  as  distilled 
water  such  as  collects  in  large  establishments  where 
steam  power  is  used,  although  in  this  case  it  must  be 
free  from  oil  and  grease.  Turbid  water  holding  solid 
substances  in  suspension  must  be  clarified  before  use 
by  filtering  or  settling.  In  practice  impure  water 
may  be  boiled  with  bran  and  the  dirty  scum  formed 
skimmed  off.  Hard  water  containing  lime  and  mag- 
nesia salts  cannot  be  used  for  wet  cleaning.  These  salts 
have  the  property  of  decomposing  the  soap  which  is 
used  and  forming  with  the  fatty  matter  of  the  soap 


I50   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DVFR, 

insoluble  lime  and  magnesia  soaps,  which  are  precipi- 
tated out  of  the  water  in  the  form  of  curdy  masses 
that  settle  on  the  fibers  of  the  fabrics  and  often  impart 
to  them  a  spotty  api:)earance. 

Water  to  be  used  for  cleaning  and  bleaching  should 
be  free  from  iron.  With  the  use  of  water  containing 
iron  the  fibers  can  never  be  suitably  cleaned  and 
bleached,  even  the  smallest  content  of  iron  imparting 
to  the  fabrics  a  yellowish  tone;  wool  especially  turns 
readily  yellow. 

Purification  and  testing  of  icatcr.  A  simple  method 
for  testing  water  as  to  its  softness  is  as  follows:  Dis- 
solve a  small  quantity  of  good  pure  soap  in  alcohol 
and  allow  a  few  drops  of  the  solution  to  fall  into  the 
water  to  be  examined.  If  llie  water  becomes  milky 
or  turbid,  it  is  hard ;  if  it  remains  clear  or  becomes  only 
slightly  turbid,  it  is  soft.  If  soap  chips  added  to  boil- 
ing water  dissolve  completely  in  it,  and  a  clear  soap 
water  is  formed  after  cooling,  the  water  may  be  used 
without  hesitation;  if,  however,  after  cooling,  the  soap 
forms  a  curdy  layer  on  the  surface,  the  water  is  hard. 

The  mere  appearance  of  water  is  of  no  value  in 
judging  it,  since  even  crystal-clear  water  may  to  a 
high  degree  be  saturated  wiili  gypsum.  The  purity 
of  water  also  varies  with  the  season  of  the  year,  the 
content  of  lime  being  greater  in  summer. 

For  the  determination  of  the  presence  of  gypsum 
add  to  the  water  2  or  3  droi:)s  of  hydrochloric  acid 
and  10  drops  of  barium  chloride  solution;  the  for- 
mation of  a  precipitate  indicates  the  presence  of 
gypsum. 


WET    CLEANING.  I51 

The  presence  of  chlorine  combinations  is  indicated 
if  a  precipitate  is  formed  on  adding  to  the  water  2  to 
3  drops  of  nitric  acid  and  the  same  quantity  of  nitrate 
of  silver. 

To  test  for  ammonia  add  to  the  boiling  water  10 
drops  of  caustic  potash  solution;  if  a  piece  of  red 
litmus  paper  held  over  the  boiling  water  turns  blue, 
the  water  contains  ammonia. 

Nitric  acid  in  water  is  detected  by  evaporating  the 
water  to  be  tested  to  half  its  quantity  and  adding  a 
few  drops  of  sulphuric  acid  and  a  small  quantity  of 
indigo  solution.  The  water  contains  nitrates  if  on 
heating  it  the  blue  color  disappears. 

The  presence  of  lime  is  tested  by  mixing  the  water 
with  ammonia  until  it  smells  of  the  latter  and  then 
adding  a  little  ammonium  oxalate;  if  a  precipitate  is 
formed  the  water  contains  lime. 

To  test  for  iron  add  to  the  water  a  few  drops  of 
nutgall  tincture;  if  a  blue-black  precipitate  is  formed 
it  is  due  to  the  presence  of  ferric  oxide. 

A  distinction  is  made  between  transient  and  per- 
manent hardness.  If  bicarbonate ,  of  lime  predomi- 
nates, which  by  mere  boiling  separates  as  carbonaxc 
of  lime,  transient  hardness  is  indicated.  On  the  other 
hand,  permanent  hardness  exists  if  sulphate  of  lime, 
which  does  not  separate  in  boiling,  predominates. 
The  degrees  of  hardness  are  accurately  determined  by 
means  of  a  standard  soap  solution,  but  the  test  has 
to  be  made  by  an  expert  chemist. 

By  simply  allowing  hard  water  to  stand  quietly  for 
some   time,    precipitates   are   formed,    which   become 


152      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

more  apparent  on  boiling.  If  after  standing  for  a 
longer  time  the  water  deposits  a  brown  skin  on  the  sides 
of  the  vessel,  it  contains  iron  and  is  iinsuitable.  To 
test  the  hardness  of  water  mix  about  a  pint  of  it  with 
tincture  of  soap  obtained  from  the  druggist ;  the  greater 
the  content  of  lime  and  magnesia  salts  is,  the  more 
turbid  the  water  will  become.  By  boiling  a  sample 
of  the  water  which  has  been  found  to  be  hard  by  the 
reaction  with  tincture  of  soap,  over  an  alcohol  lamp, 
it  \v\\\  become  turbid,  and  after  cooling  a  precipitate 
of  carbonate  of  lime  and  carbonate  of  magnesia  settles 
on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  By  decanting  the  super- 
natant clear  fluid  and  adding  tincture  of  soap  to  it, 
further  turbidity  indicates  the  presence  of  g^'pstmi. 

Hard  water  is,  as  a  rule,  softened  by  the  addition 
of  soda  as  follows:  After  adding  the  soda  to  the 
water,  stir  thoroughly  and  allow  the  whole  to  stand 
over  night.  The  next  morning  take  a  sample  in  a 
clean,  clear  glass  and  add  a  little  ammonium  oxalate. 
If  the  water  becomes  milk>'.  it  has  not  been  sufficiently 
.softened  and  more  soda  has  to  be  added. 

For  the  purification  of  water  in  which  gypsum  pre- 
dominates, use  soda  and  caustic  soda,  the  process  being 
best  effected  at  a  boiling  heat.  Independent  of  alkali 
salts,  water  to  be  used  for  cleaning  should  not  contain 
readily-soluble  salts  of  the  metals  of  the  alkalies  and  of 
the  metals  of  the  alkaline  earths.  Thus,  for  instance, 
magnesium  sulphate,  magnesium  chloride  and  alumi- 
num sulphate  should  not  be  j^resent. 

The  purified  water  may  be  tested  as  to  its  avail- 
ability by  dipping  in  it  a  small  piece  of  red  litmus 


WET    CLEANING.  153 

paper.;  the  latter  should  turn  only  very  slightly  blue. 
When  mixed  with  ammonium  oxalate  solution,  no 
turbidity  should  appear. 

Water  containing  iron  may  be  purified  by  exposure 
to  the  air,  the  soluble  ferrous  iron  combinations  being 
oxidized  by  the  oxygen  of  the  air  and  converted  into 
insoluble  ferric  iron  salts.  If  chemicals  are  to  be  used, 
an  addition  of  milk  of  lime  is  the  cheapest  and  most 
effective  means. 

For  the  purification  of  water  which  contains  iron 
and  lime,  it  is  advisable  to  mix  it  first  with  lime  solu- 
tion and  then  with  soda  solution,  and  allow  the  pre- 
cipitate which  is  formed  to  settle,  which  requires 
about  three  hours.  The  precipitate  contains  lime  and 
ferric  oxide. 

In  all  doubtful  cases  It  is,  however,  advisable  to 
have  the  water  tested  by  an  expert  chemist. 

Wet  cleaning  may,  generally  speaking,  be  divided 
into  hand  cleaning  and  machine  cleaning.  For  hand 
cleaning  a  series  of  earthenware  or  wooden  vessels  of 
various  sizes  are  required,  as  well  as  slate  or  marble 
slabs  for  hand-brushing.  For  machine  cleaning  the 
ordinary  rotary  washing  machine  is  employed.  There 
are  various  well-known  types  of  this  machine  and  it  is 
not  necessary  to  enter  into  a  detailed  description  of 
them.  The  greater  part  of  the  wet  cleaning  work  is 
best  done  on  a  slab  with  a  brush,  using  the  machine, 
if  desired,  for  rinsing.  When  cleaning  curtains  or  other 
articles  of  a  delicace  nature  in  the  rotary  washer,  it  is 
advisable  to  inclose  them  in  a  net  or  a  muslin  bag,  so 
that  they  will  not  be  damaged. 


154      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

For  rinsing  blankets,  etc.,  a  series  of  wooden  vats 
with  a  pair  of  squeezing  rollers  between  each  pair  are 
handy,  and  for  starchinj;  curtains,  etc.,  a  starch  trough 
with  a  pair  of  rubber-covered  rollers. 

Wet  ivashing  of  men's  woolen  garments.  A  pro^^erly 
wet  cleaned  suit  of  clothes  must  have  a  good  appear- 
ance, be  properly  smoothed  and  ironed,  must  not  smell 
of  soap,  dirt,  or  acid,  have  the  projjer  feel  of  the  ma- 
terial, its  original  color  unimpaired,  as  also  that  of 
the  lining,  and  show  no  pale  seams  and  button-holes. 
The  fifst  thing  to  be  done  with  this  kind  of  cleaning 
is  to  sort  it,  putting  on  one  side  the  garments  to  be 
wet  cleaned,  and  on  the  other  those  for  which  dr>' 
cleaning  is  preferable.  The  sorting  requires  great 
experience  to  identify  goods  which  would  suffer  •  in 
appearance  or  color  by  wet  cleaning  and  not  come  out 
like  new  clothes.  Dress  clothes,  colored  waistcoats 
and  most  uniforms,  must  be  chemically  cleaned. 
Many  other  coats  and  even  waistcoats,  however, 
either  on  account  of  the  way  they  are  made  or  of  the 
liability  of  their  material  to  shrink  and  wrinkle,  cannot 
be  cleaned  wet. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  with  the  goods  intended 
for  wet  cleaning  is  to  baste  down  all  padding,  so  that 
the  garment  will  not  lose  its  shape,  and  to  remove 
all  articles  that  may  have  Ix^cn  left  in  the  ix)ckets. 

Dark  garments  are  wet  cleaned  with  soda,  light  ones 
with  soap,  excejjt  in  the  case  of  dark  waistcoats, 
which  are  soap  scoured  for  the  sake  of  the  lighter 
lining.  The  articles  to  be  wet  cleaned  \\'ith  soda  are 
then  place<l  in  a  lukewarm  solution  of  soda,  the  dirtiest 


WET    CLEANING.  155 

garments  at  the  bottom.  The  sleeves  and  pockets 
are  next  turned,  but  trouser  legs  are  left  inside  out, 
and  the  garments  are  brushed  over  on  both  sides 
\\dth  lukewarm  soap  water.  If  dark  pocket  linings 
are  left  hanging  out  over  a  light  coat,  the  lining  easily 
stains  the  material  of  the  coat,  especially  in  the 
washing  machine.  The  soaping  is  continued  till  a 
permanent  lather  remains  on  the  clothes.  Neglect  of 
this  precaution  will  cause  the  finished  washing  to 
have  a  greasy  and  disagreeable  feel.  After  the  brushing 
over  with  soap,  the  goods  are  passed  through  a  luke- 
warm, weak  soda  solution,  and  next  through  cold 
water,  and  are  then  extracted.  After  extracting,  most 
of  the  soap  and  dirt  will  have  been  removed.  The  goods 
are  then  passed  twice  or  three  times  through  clean 
water  and  placed  in  cold  water  to  be  soured.  This 
souring  is  a  very  important  step  in  the  operation, 
as  it  gives  a  fresh  appearance  and  a  good  feel  to  the 
finished  goods,  and  prevents  any  troubles  with  the 
linings  due  to  the  bleeding  of  dyes. 

The  souring  is  done  with  acetic  acid,  the  bath  be- 
ing used  lukewarm  to  make  it  penetrate  the  fabric 
more  readily  and  more  uniformly.  According  to  the 
thickness  of  the  cloth,  the  acid  is  added  for  each  lot 
in  one,  two,  or  three  portions.  This  again  is  a  most 
important  precaution.  If  with  thick  heavy  fabrics 
all  the  acid  is  put  in  at  once,  it  often  happens  that 
the  finished  goods  still  smell  of  soap  and  have  a  hard 
feel,  while  the  faded  parts  of  them  stand  out  more 
clearly,  and  the  seams  look  much  lighter  than  the 
cloth.    All  this  is  avoided  by  adding,  the  acid  in  por- 


156   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

tions.  Garments  vinth  black  cotton  linings  are  soured 
last,  as  they  always  bleed  a  little  in  the  process. 
Waistcoats  with  dark  linings  njay  also  be  placed,  after 
cleaning  and  rinsing,  in  salt  water  to  prevent  the 
black  dye  from  bleeding.  After  souring,  the  goods  are 
rinsed  first  in  warm,  and  then  in  cold,  water.  If  any 
acid  is  left  in  the  j^'arments  they  will  be  unnaturally 
stiff  and  have  a  hard,  unpleasant  feel.  Thorough 
rinsing  is  especially  necessar\'  for  light-colored  goods 
in  order  to  insure  clearness  of  the  colors,  and  it  is 
ad\nsable  to  treat  them  after  souring 'for  10  minutes 
in  a  washing  machine  with  clean,  lukewarm  vs'ater, 
then  pass  them  once  more  through  vs'ater.  and  extract. 

Cloaks,  heavy  overcoats  lor  men  and  ser\'ants  are 
washed  \nth  soap  and  are  treated  differently  from 
suits. 

Gray  uniform  cloaks  can  rarely  be  cleaned  with 
benzine,  as  the  street  dirt  often  adheres  so  strongly 
that  only  soaping  will  remove  it.  Very  dirty  places 
should  be  brushed  over  with  a  benzine  soap  solution 
before  the  garment  is  washed  :is  a  whole.  The  lining 
requires  just  as  careful  treatment  as  the  cloth,  especially 
in  places  particularly  subject  to  be  soiled.  :'.  e..  which 
come  into  contact  \\'ith  a  horse  or  with  boot-tops. 

Nearly  all  the  articles  just  referred  to  are  of  heaxy 
material  from  which  it  is  difficult  to  rinse  the  soap 
completely.  They  are  also  UM^  large  and  stiff,  for  the 
most  part,  to  be  easily  wrung.  They  should  therefore 
be  extracted  and  then  passed  through  warm,  and  next 
through  cold,  water,  and  then  again  through  the  ex- 
tractor, till  the  water  comes  clear  from  the  machine. 


WET    CLEANING.  157 

These  goods  are  soured  as  already  described,  but  in 
the  case  of  heavy  garments  two  persons  are  required 
to  look  after  the  wringing.  The  rinsing  is  done  in 
three  baths,  the  first  two  warm,  the  last  cold.  If  a 
very  soft  feel  is  wanted,  the  final  rinsing  before  extract- 
ing must  be  in  soft  water. 

Men's  dark  clothes,  like  light  ones,  are  soaked  in 
soda  solution,  the  darkest  underneath  and  then  brushed 
over  v/ith  fresh  soda  solution.  To  prevent  bleeding 
onto  the  linings  the  goods  are  now  slightly  soured  and 
rinsed  once  cold.  The  souring  removes  the  disagree- 
able rancid  smell  often  acquired  from  the  body,  and 
which,  if  it  occurs  on  a  single  article,  would  otherwise 
infect  the  whole  batch. 

Many  operators  prefer  cleaning  men's  dark  clothes 
with  quillaia  bark.  Dark  one-color  articles  such  as 
brown,  dark  blue,  dark  green,  olive  and  black,  as 
well  as  all  dark  mixed  goods  which  do  not  contain 
green  or  other  delicate  colors,  are  first  soaked  in  a 
cold  weak  soda  bath.  Great  care  must  however  be 
taken  that  mixed  goOds  containing  bright  colors,  es- 
pecially green  and  tobacco-brown,  do  not  come  in 
contact  .with  soda  or  soap.  By  pa^dng  close  atten- 
tion, the  workman  will  soon  learn  which  articles  may 
be  soaked  and  which  cannot  be  thus  treated.  Articles 
the  colors  of  which  are  liable  to  run  are  not  soaked  at 
all,  but  simply  moistened. 

The  quillaia  bark  is  scalded  with  hot  water — 2  lbs. 
of  bark  to  3  bucketfuls  of  water.  The  whole  is  then 
allowed  to  stand  to  clarify,  only  the  clear,  yellow 
liquid  being  used.     Of  this  extract  add  about  2  to  3 


158   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

quarts  to  a  bucketful  of  lukewarm  water,  or  enough 
for  the  bath  to  froth  well.  The  efficiency  of  the  bath 
is  increased  by  the  addition  of  a  whiskey  glass  full  of 
ammonia.  For  green  and  green-mixed  articles  add  to 
the  bath  a  small  quantity  of  acetic  acid.  For  ver>'  deli- 
cate blue  colors  a  few  drops  of  sulphuric  acid  may  be 
added  to  the  bath  without  decreasing  its  efficiency. 
In  this  manner  the  baths  may  be  so  prepared  that 
even  the  most  sensitive  colors  are  not  impaired. 

After  cleaning  and  rinsing,  the  goods  are  passed 
through  water  soured  with  acetic  acid.  Articles  which 
contain  black  cotton,  as  is  frequently  the  case  with 
mixed  goods,  are  brought  into  salt  water,  as  well  as 
waistcoats.  If  the  colors  of  the  latter  goods  have 
already  run.  draw  the  articles  quickly  through  a  bath 
slightly  soured  with  sulphuric  add,  rinse  well,  and  then 
place  them  in  salt  water. 

The  quillaia  bark  may  be  scalded  three  times  in  suc- 
cession before  it  has  yielded  all  its  washing  substance. 

Since  by  cleaning  with  soap  or  quillaia  all  stains 
cannot  be  removed,  it  is  advisable  to  get  rid  of  them 
as  much  as  possible  by  suitable  means  before  washing. 
An  excellent  rmxture  for  this  ]3urpose  consists  of  i  oz. 
each  of  acetic  ether,  ether,  chloroform  and  carbon 
tetrachloride.  Oil-paint  stains  are  either  softened  with 
turpentine  or  fat.  or  removed  with  chloroform.  Var- 
nish, wagon  grease  and  tar  stains  are  also  softened 
with  turpentine;  stearine,  paraffine,  and  resin  wiih 
alcohol. 

If  in  men's  colored  garments  spots  are  found  where 
the  color  has  been  destroved  bv  urine,  moisten  them 


WET    CLEANING,  I59 

with  pure  decoction  of  logwood,  allow  to  dry,  moisten 
once  more,  and  after  again  drying,  dab  the  spots  with 
copperas  solution;  when  dry,  brush  with  a  sharp 
brush.  If  the  stains  do  not  disappear  by  this  treat- 
ment, moisten  them  with  wine  vinegar. 

In  all  cases  where  garments  are  very  dirty  it  is  well 
to  soak  them  for  i}4  to  2  hours  in  cold  water,  either 
with  or  without  the  addition  of  i  oz.  of  sal  soda  per 
gallon  of  water.  This  treatment  softens  the  dirt  and 
makes  its  removal  easier.  When  taken  from  the 
soaking-bath  the  garments  are  squeezed  to  remove  the 
surplus  water,  placed  fiat  on  a  table,  and  scrubbed 
with  a  brush  dipped  in  a  neutral  soap  solution.  Those 
portions  of  the  garment  most  liable  to  soil  should  be 
given  particular  attention.  After  scrubbing,  the  gar- 
ment should  be  given  several  rinses  through  warm 
water  to  remove  the  soap.  If  i  oz.  of  acetic  acid  is 
added  to  each  gallon  of  water  comprising  the  last 
rinse  the  finished  garment  will  have  a  better  feel  and 
appearance  than  if  this  detail  were  omitted. 

Most  wet  cleaners  treat  each  separate  article  of  men's 
wearing  apparel  as  follows: 

Coats.  The  inside  of  the  lapels,  the  inside  of  the 
collar  and  the  sleeves  are  scoured  in  the  order  named. 
The  remainder  of  the  outside  of  the  garment  is  then 
treated.  The  sleeves  are  then  turned  wrong  side  out 
and  the  entire  lining  cleaned.  The  garment  is  rinsed 
without  turning  back  the  sleeves. 

Vests.  The  inside  is  scrubbed  and  then  the  out- 
side. 

Trousers.     The  outside  is  scrubbed  first.     The  gar- 


l6o   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

ment  is  then  turned  wrong  side  out  and  the  lining,  the 
bottom  of  the  legs,  and  the  remainder  treated  in  the 
order  named. 

If  there  are  any  doubts  about  the  fastness  of  the 
dye  with  which  an  article  is  colored  no  soap  should 
be  used  in  the  cleaning  process.  If  a  color  should  com- 
mence to  run  under  the  wet  treatment  the  garment 
should  immediately  be  rinsed  in  warm  water  and  placed 
in  a  bath  of  Glauber's  salt  and  alum  to  set  the  color. 
Articles  dyed  red  often  bleed  when  cleaned  in  warm 
water,  and  these  should  be  watched  carefully.  Gar- 
ments dyed  red,  which  show  a  tendency  to  bleed, 
should  be  cleaned  in  cold  water  to  which  a  small 
amount  of  common  salt  has  been  added  to  set  the 
color. 

Wet  cleaning  ladies'  garments.  In  many  establish- 
ments ladies'  garments,  no  matter  whether  they  are 
to  be  scoured  with  soap  or  quillaia.  are  first  chemically 
cleaned,  but  the  articles  intended  for  wet  cleaning  are 
not  passed  through  a  fresh  benzine  bath.  For  dark 
articles,  such  as  red-bro\N'n,  brown,  green,  blue  and 
black  garments,  which  cannot  be  subjected  to  soap 
washing,  such  treatment  is  indispensable.  However, 
it  can  also  be  highly  recommended  for  light-c©lored 
articles,  as  the  dirt  dissolves  more  readily  in  the  sub- 
sequent wet  cleaning.  If  articles  containing  oil  stain 
are  only  wet  cleaned,  the  stains,  which  can  rarely  be 
entirely  removed  vsnth  soda  or  soap,  appear  again  in  a 
few  days  and  become  immediately  perceptible  by  the 
adherence  of  dust. 

Ladies'   colored  garments,   for  instance,   \N-ith   red. 


WET   CLEANING.  l6l 

blue,  green,  brown,  etc.,  are  spread  upon  a  table, 
brushed  with  dilute  alcohol,  patted  dry  with  a  piece 
of  buckskin,  and  hung  up  on  two  hangers. 

The  first  qualification  for  the  operator  who  has  to 
deal  with  colored  cotton  garments  is  a  knowledge  of 
dyeing.  •  No  mistake  is  so  easily  made  and  no  mistake 
is  so  difficult  to  remedy  as  that  involved  in  treating 
colored  cottons  without  regard  to  the  dyes  they  con- 
tain. An  enormous  variety  of  dyes  are  in  current  use 
on  cotton  articles.  Many  of  them  bleed  even  in  cold 
water,  and  many  do  not  bleed  in  the  presence  of  soap. 
It  is,  therefore,  essential  to  test  doubtful  articles  with 
soap.  A  trial  may  be  made  with  a  comer  or  inside 
seam,  or  by  cutting  a  small  piece  from  the  band,  and. 
after  washing  and  drying,  compare  it  with  the  garment. 
If  the  color  has.  faded  or  become  duller,  it  is  best  to 
chemically  clean  the  garment.  However,  generally 
speaking,  cotton  articles  do  not  become  sufficiently  clean 
by  the  dry  method. 

It  should  also  be  borne  in  mind  that  when  a  fabric 
is  parti-colored,  even  if  there  are  only  two  or  three 
different  hues,  that  at  least  ©ne  of  the  dyes  used  is 
almost  certain  to  loose.  In  this  case  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  the  goods  must  be  considered.  If  the  pre- 
vailing colors  are  dark,  they  must  be  treated  with  a 
lukewarm,  but  strong,  lye  of  quillaia,  to  which  it  is 
advisable  to  add  a  little  ammonia,  especially  when 
there  is  black  in  the  pattern.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  the  detergent  power  of  quillaia  is  far  greater  than 
that  of  goap,  which  partly  compensates  for  the  differ- 
ence in  price,   and  makes  it  worth  while  to  use  the 


l62      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

extract  for  cleaning  expensive  j^ootls  where  a  higher 
price  for  cleaning  can  be  charged. 

Wash-fast  garments  are  placed  upon  a  table,  and 
the  dirty  places,  especially  the  hem-lining,  which  is 
frequently  soiled  with  street  dirt,  thoroughly  brushed 
with  cold  soap  water.  They  arc  then  washed  succes- 
sively in  two  cold  soap  baths  which  should  well  lather, 
next  rinsed  and  soured. 

For  cotton  garments  which  \\i\\  not  stand  cleaning 
with  soap,  the  following  process  may  be  used  to  ad- 
vantage: Scald  a  few  pounds  of  wheat  bran  with 
boiling  water,  allow  to  stand  and  cool  to  ioo°  F.; 
then  stir  thoroughly  and  pass  the  whole  through  a 
hair-sieve.  In  this  slippery  milky  liquor  wash  the 
articles  either  with  the  hand  or  upon  the  wash-board, 
finally  rinse,  extract,  and  hang  up  to  dry.  Fine 
black  and  white  checkered  cotton  garments  may  in 
this  manner  be  successfully  cleaned,  as  well  as  all 
articles  with  delicate  colors,  the  most  sensitive  colors 
being  in  no  way  injured.  The  colors  do  not  bleed, 
since  such  bran  extract  does  not  contain  any  solvent 
substances,  but  much  gluten,  in  consequence  of  which 
articles  thus  cleaned  do  not  require  further  finish. 
Rapid  drying  is  advisable. 

A  similar  method  is  as  follows:  Bring  quite  hot 
water  into  a  copper  kettle  and  add  wheat  bran  in  the 
proportion  of  14  of  the  weight  of  the  articles  to  be 
cleaned.  Let  the  whole  draw  for  5  minutes,  then 
boil  for  10  minutes,  allow  to  cool,  then  enter  the 
articles  and  bring  slowly  to  the  boiling-i)oint,  work- 
ing the  articles  constantly.    Then  allow  to  cool  slowly 


WET    CLEANING.  163 

to  77°  F.,  next  wash  the  articles  thoroughly  and  rinse 
twice.  Cotton  articles  thus  treated  turn  out  perfectly 
clean,  and  the  colors  retain  their  original  freshness. 

The  colors  of  fabrics  containing  white  silk  together 
with  black  cotton  are  very  apt  to  run;  this  is  pre- 
vented and  removed  by  placing  the  articles,  imme- 
diately after  washing  and  rinsing,  in  salt  water  for  one 
to  two  hours,  then  at  once  starching,  extracting  and 
quickly  drying.  Such  articles  may  be  washed  with 
soap  or  quillaia,  or  wheat  bran,  according  to  the 
degree  of  dirt ;  wheat  bran,  however,  being  always  the 
safest  agent. 

Corsets.  First  remove  the  steels  and  soak  the  article 
in  a  5  per  cent,  solution  of  oxalic  acid  until  the  rust 
stains  are  removed.  Rinse  out  the  acid  and  wash  in 
warm  water.  When  clean,  rinse,  dry  and  replace  the 
steels. 

Ladies^  half -wool  and  wool  garments  are,  as  a  rule, 
dyed  with  fast  colors.  However,  on  account  of  their 
shape,  some  of  them  cannot  be  wet  cleaned,  but  have 
to  be  dry  cleaned  and  freed  from  stains,  while  the 
colors  of  others  will  not  stand  soap  washing,  though 
the  shape  of  the  garments  might  permit  it.  When  it 
comes  to  mixed'  colors,  either  woven  or  printed,  one  of 
the  colors  is  sure  not  to  be  fast.  Such  pieces  should  first 
be  dry  cleaned,  and  then  finished  in  a  cold  solution  of 
quillaia  bark  (about  i  or  2  quarts  to  a  bucketful  of 
soft  water).  They  are  then  rinsed  and  soured  with 
acetic  acid.  Dark  blue  and  dark  green  garments  are 
treated  in  the  same  manner,  a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid 
being,  in  the  latter  case,  added  to  the  quillaia  solution. 


164   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DVER. 

A  preparaton'  chemical  treatment  will  also  be  neo- 
essan-  for  garments  suitable  for  wet  cleaning,  but 
which  contain  a  nxunber  of  grease  or  other  fatty  stains. 
After  the  benzine  bath,  these  pieces  take  wet  treat- 
ment ver}'  well. 

Wool  and  half-wool  stuffs  are  best  washed  upon  a 
table  vsnth  a  wood  or  slate  top.  It  is  an  old  rule 
that  soapsuds  used  on  woolens  should  not  be  too 
strong  nor  too  hot,.  Only  hand-warm,  and  even  less 
is  the  prop)er  temjxTature.  and  if  the  suds  are  light 
and  foamy,  the  bath  will  be  of  stifficient  strength. 
A  proper  brush  is  another  matter  of  importance,  for 
nothing  is  more  foolish  than  to  apply  a  coarse-fibered 
brush  to  a  delicate  costly  fabric. 

Black  and  white  checks  in  wool  and  part  wool 
should,  before  being  wet  cleaned,  be  taken  through 
a  bath  consisting"  of  pure  water  and  a  little  common 
salt.  After  being  dried  they  are  wet  cleaned  in  the 
usual  manner.  After  rinsing  allow  them  to  remain 
for  a  short  time  in  a  solution  of  common  salt,  and 
then  dr>'  quickly  in  the  air. 

Rinsing  plays  a  most  important  part  in  wet  cleaning. 
Four  baths  are  usually  necessar>-  to  insure  a  proper 
rinsing.  The  first  lukewarm,  with  a  slight  addition 
of  soda;  the  second  and  third,  plain  warm  \\'ater. 
After  being  thoroughly  rinsed  in  these  three  baths, 
the  garments  should  for  some  time  remain  immersed 
in  the  last  cold  bath.  If  white  and  light-colored  pieces 
have  not  been  sufficiently  rinsed  and  still  retain  some 
soap,  they  \N-ill  be  marked  with  yellowish  streaks 
after  they  have  dried. 


WET   CLEANING.  165 

To  freshen  up  the  colors,  which  generally  fade  a  little 
under  the  soap  process,  a  warm  water  bath  should  be 
prepared  in  a  clean  wooden  vessel  and  enough  pure 
sulphuric  acid  added,  while  constantly  stirring,  to 
give  the  bath  a  faint  acid  flavor.  All  but  black  pieces 
should  be  taken  through  this  bath,  then  rinsed  and 
extracted.  Black  articles  require  a  bath  of  common 
salt. 

Garments  made  of  unweighted  silk  are  very  durable 
and  present  no  difficulties  if  proper  care  is  taken. 
Cheap  weighted  silks,  however,  often  cause  trouble 
even  as  early  as  the  second  cleaning.  They  lose  their 
color  and  tear  like  paper.  When  silk  is  weighted  with 
tin  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  wash  it  with  perfectly 
neutral  soap,  as  it  is  highly  sensitive  even  to  the  least 
traces  of  alkali,  and  no  guarantee  can  be  given  in  the 
case  of  silks  which  have  previously  been  washed  else- 
where. The  tin  loading  dissolves  in  hot  soap  lye  and 
forms  an  insoluble  thin  soap,  which  acts  severely  on 
the  fiber  by  mechanical  abrasion  during  the  cleaning, 
wherein  it  is  powerfully  assisted  by  any  dust  that  may 
be  present.  Hence,  it  is  advisable  to  free  all  silk 
from  dust  before  washing,  and  that  by  the  hand,  as 
the  use  of  a  stick  will  cause  too  much  friction  between 
the  dust  and  the  fabric.  Cheap  light-colored  silks 
must  never  be  washed  with  those  of  darker  colors, 
or  the  latter  will  almost  surely  bleed  on  to  them.  The 
stains  so  caused  are  very  difficult  to  remove,  especially 
as  the  fabric  is  generally  very  fragile. 

All  artificial  silks,  and  particularly  such  as  are 
weighted,   must  be  washed  in  cold  water,   and  with 


l66      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

absolutely  neutral  soap.  Careful  washing,  if  these 
conditions  are  ri^dly  observed,  will  do  ver>'  little, 
if  any  harm,  although  care  must  be  exercised,  as  all 
artificial  silks  are  much  weaker  when  wet.  and  when 
in  this  condition  are  easily  damaged.  As  the  soap  must 
be  neutral  the  use  of  soda  is  obNnously  inadmissible. 
The  goods  must  have  a  good  soaking  in  the  cold  soap, 
best  overnight,  and  should  never  be  rubbed,  but  stirred 
about  sharply  imtil  the  dirt  is  loosened  and  removed. 
It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  use  gall  soap  as  well  as 
ordinan.'  soap,  say  2  lbs.  of  gall  soap  to  every'  4  lbs. 
of  the  other.  The  soap  should  be  dissolved  separately 
in  warm  water  before  adding  it  to  the  bath  of  cold 
water,  and  the  silks  put  in  immediately  aftervs'ards. 
On  lifting,  the  goods  are  drained  as  much  as  possible, 
as  \NTinging  is  to  be  deprecated,  and  then  rinsed, 
drained  again,  and  dried.  This  final  process  must  be 
conducted  with  great  care  and  at  a  ven.*  moderate 
temperature.  If  the  warm  air  passes  through  the  dr\'- 
ing-room  in  sufficient  volume  the  drvnng  will  not  be 
too  slow.  Hot  drying  makes  tin- weighted  silk  as  stiff 
as  a  board  and  the  evil  cannot  be  remedied  by  ironing. 
Dark-colored  garments  are  never  so  tender  as 
heavily  loaded  cheap  silks,  and  the  chief  risk  during 
washing  is  stripping  of  the  color.  After  dusting,  the 
garments  are  soaked  in  clean,  warm  soft  water  in  which 
borax  has  been  dissolved  to  the  amount  of  about  i 
lb.  for  every  12  gallons  of  water.  Borax  is  chosen 
because  it  entails  less  danger  to  any  loose  dyes  that 
may  be  present  than  most  other  substances.  The 
washing  is  done  with  gall  soap.  pre\notisly  dissolved 


WET   CLEANING.  167 

separately  and  added  to  the  water  before  the  goods  are 
entered.  There  is  no  objection  to  washing  in  the 
ordinary  washing  machine,  but  the  temperature  must 
not  exceed  75°  F.  The  cleaned  goods  are  drained, 
Hghtly  extracted,  and  the  color  is  brightened  in  an 
acetic  acid  bath.  This  bath  also  serves  as  a  rinse 
and  is  used  cold. 

A  good  plan  for  protecting  light-colored  silks  from 
stripping  is  to  steep  them  in  sour  milk  and  soft  water, 
first  soaping  any  stains  or  very  dirty  places.  After 
two  or  three  hours'  soaking  the  goods  are  washed  with 
a  liquor  prepared  by  dissolving  about  i  lb.  of  Marseilles 
soap  and  5  ozs.  of  borax  in  i  gallon  of  sour  milk. 

Perspiration  stains  under  the  armpits,  if  they  re- 
sist soaping,  may  be  removed  by  the  cautious  local 
use  of  sodium  perborate,  a  powerful  stripping  agent. 

After  washing,  the  silks  are  freed  from  the  sour 
milk  by  three  or  four  good  rinses  in  soft,  lukewarm 
water.  It  is  important  that  no  trace  of  the  milk 
should  remain.  If  it  is  then  found  that  the  color 
has  paled  the  goods  are  re-dyed.  A  small  quantity 
of  a  suitable  dye  is  placed  in  a  gauze  bag  and  hung 
in  the  water.  When  sufficient  has  dissolved,  the 
goods  are  entered.  After  a  few  minutes  lying  fully 
spread  out  in  the  dye-bath  they  are  lifted,  drained,' 
rinsed  with  cold  water  and  dried  at  a  moderate  heat 
as  above  explained,  tl  only  a  little  re-dyeing  is  re- 
quired, the  goods  are  left  in  the  dye  for  a  correspond- 
ingly short  period,  or  the  rinse  water  used  to  remove 
the  milk  may  be  slightly  dyed.  The  following  are 
one  or  two  especially  useful  dyes:    Brilliant  Geranine, 


l68   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Benzo  Orange  S.  and  Brilliant  Lanafucl)sine.  The 
last  is  fast  to  light,  washing  and  stoving.  and  is  used 
in  a  soap  bc-\th  broken  vs-ith  sulphuric  add. 

If  the  shape  of  rau^'Sflk  garments  permits,  they  are, 
after  removal  of  stains,  washed  quite  warm,  wth  soap 
bark  or  Tetrapole  solution  and  rinsed  in  an  acetic  acid 
bath.  A  brush  \N-ith  stiff  bristles  should  not  be  used 
on  account  of  the  danger  of  injuring  the  fabric.  In 
many  instances  it  is  adWsable  to  do  away  ^^nth  the 
use  of  a  brush  altogether  and  to  use  a  sponge  instead. 

With  luster  and  barege  garments  great  care  has  to 
be  taken,  ^^^lile  they  stand  wet  cleaning,  they  fre- 
quently become  ven.*  curly  and  shrink,  so  that  they 
cannot  be  again  smoothed  by  ironing.  Such  gar- 
ments should  nof  be  washed  on  the  wash  board,  but 
simply  brushed  and  treated  entirely  cold,  and  also 
cold  starched. 

If  garments  trimmed  xs-ith  black  velvet  are  wet 
cleaned  like  white  articles,  they  should,  after  cleaning, 
be  only  draA\-n  through  acetic  acid,  or  not  at  all  soured, 
and  starched.  If,  however,  the  fabric  requires  starch- 
ing, the  velvet,  when  the  garment  is  dr^-,  should  be 
steamed  and  treated  with  a  sharp  brush.  Finally,  to 
restore  luster  and  softness,  rub  the  velvet  with  a  small 
rag  moistened  with  olive  oil.  This,  of  course,  has  to 
\)e  done  very  carefully  so  as  not  to  touch  the  fabric 
and  soil  it. 

Wet  washing  white  wool  and  white  silk  fabrics. 
Previous  to  washing  white  wool  and  white  silk  articles, 
such  as  cloths,  woolen  covers,  jackets,  silk  shawls,  etc., 
remove  all  metallic  hooks  and  buttons.     Then  soak 


WET    CLEANING,  169 

the  articles  for  half  an  hour  in  a  lukewarm  bath  con- 
taining about  yi  lb.  of  soda  in  solution.  Next  pre- 
pare two  baths  with  soap  which  should  lather  well, 
and  successively  clean  the  goods  in  them.  Cleaning  is 
effected  by  squeezing  below  the  surface  of  the  bath  the 
smaller  articles  such  as  fichus,  etc.,  and  shaking  them; 
they  should  never  be  rubbed  between  the  hands. 
Larger  articles,  such  as  blankets,  etc.,  are  cleaned  either 
upon  the  wash  board  or  in  the  washing  machine.  Good 
castile  soap  should  be  preferably  used.  The  suds 
should  only  be  liikewarm  and  never  allowed  to  get  too 
hot  or  too  cold.  To  the  last  soap  bath  some  blue  is, 
as  a  rule,  added.  For  this  purpose  dissolve  in  an 
earthenware  vessel  2  to  4  ozs.  of  indigo  carmine  and 
add  a  few  drops  of  the  solution  to  the  bath.  After 
having  passed  through  the  last  soap  bath,  the  articles 
are  wrung  out  or  extracted,  and  bleached  if  necessary. 
A  suitable  sulphur  bleaching  chamber  for  woolens 
should  have  walls  and  floor  of  brick-work  set  in  ce- 
ment, and  be  ceiled  with  planks  thickly  covered  out- 
side with  felt.  Wooden  pegs  should  be  used  for  the 
ceiling  instead  of  iron  nails,  to  prevent  all  chance  of 
rusty  water  dripping  on  the  goods  to  be  bleached  and 
staining  them.  Just  below  the  ceiling  laths  cross  the 
chamber,  being  supported  on  wall  brackets  and  thickly 
tinned  hooks  are  screwed  into  the  underside  of  the 
laths  for  suspending  the  articles  to  be  bleached.  They 
are  so  placed  that  when  the  goods  are  hung  upon  them, 
the  sulphurous  acid  gets  all  around  each  article. 
Hence  the  hooks  have  to  be  spaced  according  to  the 
size  of  the  articles,  some  laths  being  reserved  for  large, 


lyo   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

and  others  for  smaller,  ones.  From  garments  to  be 
bleached,  brass  hooks  and  eyes  and  pins  have  to  be 
removed  before  brinj^ng  them  into  the  chamber. 

When  all  the  goods  are  hung  up  sulphur  is  set  fire 
to  in  an  iron  pan  and  put  into  the  chamber.  The  air- 
tight door  of  the  chamber  is  then  closed,  and  the 
goods  are  left  overnight.  It  is  usual  to  bum  half  an 
ounce  of  roll-sulphur  for  ever\'  lo  cubic  feet  of  the 
capacity  of  the  chamber.  The  oxygen  in  lo  cubic  feet 
of  air  will  bum  more  sulphur  than  this,  but  if  the 
quantity  given  abo\-e  is  much  exceeded  solid  sulphur 
is  apt  to  be  sublimed  on  to  the  goods,  and  its  removal 
is  a  matter  of  great  difficulty. 

Small  pale  yellow  sulphur  stains  can  be  readily  re- 
moved from  the  articles  while  still  moist,  by  gentle 
mbbing  -with  solution  of  oxalic  acid  in  water;  dark, 
nearly  bro\\'n  stains  can.  howe\'cr,  be  scarcely  removed. 
If,  in  sulphuring,  the  articles  tum  yellow,  and  the  sul- 
phur is  not  completely  consurruxi,  spontaneous  renewal 
of  air  is  lacking. 

Another  method  is  as  follo'^-s.  Do  not  blue  after 
cleaning,  but  only  when  the  articles  have  been  sul- 
phured. Then  rinse  them  in  lukewami  water  and 
next  in  a  warm  bath  to  which  a  few  droi)s  of  indigo 
carmine  solution  and  cochineal  decoction  have  been 
added. 

White  woolen  blankets  vs-ith  blue  or  red  borders  can 
be  sulphured  without  damage  to  the  colors  and  then 
treatixi  like  other  white  articles. 

A  more  convenient,  thouj^h  somewhat  more  ex- 
pensive,   bleaching   process    is    that    w^Xh    potassium 


WET    CLEANING.  17I 

permanganate  and  sulphurous  acid.  For  this  pur- 
pose fill  an  earthenware  vessel  with  cold  water  and 
dissolve  in  it  about  i  oz.  of  potassium  permanganate. 
Move  the  articles  in  the  solution  for  about  10  minutes 
so  that  they  show  a  brown  appearance;  then  press 
them  out  thoroughly  and  bring  them  into  another 
earthenware  vessel  containing  a  fresh  water  bath  A^-ith 
about  2  quarts  of  sulphurous  acid.  In  this  bath  the 
articles  should  remain,  overnight.  The  two  baths 
should  be  well  covered  to  preserve  them  for  further 
use.  The  next  morning  the  articles  are  taken  from  the 
sulphurous  acid  bath,  passed  rapidly  to  a  bath  soured 
with  sulphuric  acid  and  to  which  a  few  drops  of  methyl 
violet  6  B  have  been  added,  sufficient  to  give  the  bath 
a  pale-green  color.  The  articles  are  finally  rinsed  and 
extracted . 

Bleaching  white  wool  or  silk  articles  with  peroxides. 
When  the  articles  have  been  cleaned  in  the  above- 
described  manner,  they  are  passed,  for  the  removal 
of  soap,  through  two  lukewarm  baths  and  thoroughly 
squeezed  out.  Prepare  in  an  earthenware  vessel  a 
cold-water  bath  containing  one  part  hydrogen  per- 
oxide for  every  15  parts  of  water.  Place  the  goods  in 
the  bath  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  it  for  one-half 
to  one  hour,  according  to  requirement,  taking  care 
that  every  article  is  below  the  surface  of  the  bath  so 
as  to  be  thoroughly  saturated.  Cover  the  bath. 
When  taking  the  articles  from  the  bath  squeeze  them 
superficially  and  hang  them  in  a  room  through  which 
a  current  of  air  passes  and  the  temperature  of  which 
does  not  exceed.  68°  F.     The  bleaching  process  takes 


172      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

place  together  with  evaporation.  The  saturated  arti- 
cles may  also  be  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun, 
whereby  the  process  is  accelerated. 

Since  hydrogen  peroxide  is  for  the  sake  of  durability 
brought  into  commerce  slightly  acidulated,  the  bleach- 
ing bath  must,  before  use,  be  neutralized  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  few  drops  of  ammonia.  The  baths  should  be 
well  covered  for  future  use,  and  brought  up  to  the  re- 
quired strength  by  the  addition  of  fresh  hydrogen 
peroxide.  The  latter  should  be  kept  in  well-closed 
vessels  in  a  cool  place. 

Bleaching  white  icoolen  blankets,  garments,  etc.  The 
articles,  thoroughly  freed  from  dirt  and  other  impurities 
by  wet  cleaning,  are  extracted  and  then  bleached.  For 
this  purpose  old  tubs  which  are  not  thoroughly  clean 
should  never  be  used ;  even  \snth  new  tubs  it  is  ad\'isable 
— and  this  applies  to  all  wood  utensils  used — to  bleach 
them  before  use  with  a  one-half  per  cent,  hydrogen 
peroxide  solution  to  withdraw  the  coloring  matter  con- 
tained in  the  wood.  Water  and  acids  must  be  free 
from  iron;  even  water,  othervN-ise  suitable,  which  has 
stood  for  some  time  in  an  iron  conduit,  may  contain 
iron  and  be  thereby  rendered  unfit  for  use.  Fill  a 
wooden  tub  with  cold,  pure,  soft  water,  add  for  every 
lo  parts  of  water  one  part  hydrogen  peroxide,  as  well 
as  a  small  quantity  of  ammonia,  stir  thoroughly,  intro- 
duce the  articles  and  allow  them  to  remain  \mtil  they 
have  acquired  the  desired  tone  of  purity.  If  after 
bleaching  with  hydrogen  peroxide  the  articles  are  not 
to  be  blued,  it  is  ad\'isable  to  dry  them  in  the  sun  in 
order  to  complete  the  bleaching  process.     Bluing,  if 


WET    CLEANING.  173 

required,  is  effected  in  a  fresh,  cold,  or  at  the  utmost, 
lukewarm  bath  with  aniline  blue  or  methyl  violet.  The 
goods  are  then  immediately  extracted  and  dried.  It 
is  best,  if  possible,  to  dry  such  articles  in  the  open  air 
in  the  shade;  in  drying  in  the  drying  chamber,  care 
should  be  taken  to  do  it  slowly  at  a  low  temperature 
and  with  good  ventilation. 

Hydrogen  peroxide  is  an  excellent  bleaching  agent, 
but  its  bad  keeping  properties  restrict  its  usefulness. 
As  previously  mentioned,  the  commercial  article  is, 
as  a  rule,  slightly  acidulated,  such  mineral  acids  as 
hydrochloric  and  sulphuric,  and  one'  or  two  strong 
organic  acids,  especially  acetic,  having  been  found 
eflfitient  in  increasing  its  durability.  Addition  of  one 
of  these  makes  even  weak  solutions  of  hydrogen  per- 
oxide keep  fairly  well.  For  many  purposes,  however, 
the  use  of  acids  with  peroxide  is  objectionable,  and 
several  other  efficient  preservatives  have  been  dis- 
covered. The  chief  of  these  are  benzoic  acid,  phenace- 
tine,  and  lactophenine.  A  solution  of  hydrogen  per- 
oxide of  3  per  cent,  strength  decomposes  so  spon- 
taneously at  the  ordinary  temperature  that  it  loses 
half  its  strength  in  from  one  week  to  a  fortnight, 
according  to  the  weather.  When  mixed  with  from  one- 
half  to  a  whole  gramme  of  benzoic  acid  to  the  quart, 
again  according  to  the  weather,  the  peroxide  will  still 
have  six-sevenths  of  its  original  strength  after  the  lapse 
of  a  month.  Phenacetine  and  lactophenine  have  a  still 
more  powerful  preservative  action.  From  1-5  to  1-4  of 
a  gramme  of  them  is  as  effectual  as  a  gramme  of  benzoic 
acid.     Even  with  1-20  of  a  gramme  per  quart,  of  either 


174      ^^^'    CI-KANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DVKR. 

phenacetine  or  lactophenine.  half  the  original  strength 
of  the  peroxide  often  remains  after  the  lapse  of  a 
month.  Havinjij  regard  both  to  efficiency  and  to 
economy,  phenacetine  is  the  best  presen'ative  for 
hydrogen  peroxide,  and  in  no  way  interferes  ^\'ith  its 
industrial  action. 

As. a  substitute  for  the  not  very  constant  hydrogen 
peroxide,  sodiimi  peroxide  may  be  recommended  as 
a  bleaching  agent.  Its  use  for  white  silk,  especially 
ribbons,  is  as  follows:  Rub  the  silk  gently  ^^'ith  a 
mediimi  hard  brush  and  hand-warm  soap  solution,  so 
that  the  threads"  of  the  tissue  are  not  pushed  together. 
Then  rinse  thoroughly  in  water  of  86°  to  loo  F. 
and  bring  the  silk  into  the  sodiimi  peroxide  bath. 
For  the  latter  use  an  enameled  vessel,  copjjer  being 
unsuitable  for  the  purpose,  ])rovided  with  a  second 
perforated  bottom.  The  vessel  should  be  of  suitable 
size,  as  the  silk  must  not  he  pressed  together,  and 
should  have  plenty  of  room.  Dissolve  in  lo  quarts 
of  cold  distilled  or  condenseil  water  3^^  ozs.  of  epsom 
salt,  add  carefully  and  slowly,  stirring  constantly, 
about  I  oz.  sodivun  peroxide,  and  finally,  also  slowly, 
about  i}/3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid.  After  adding  the 
sulphuric  acid,  the  bath  should  be  only  slightly  alka- 
line. It  is  best  to  proceed  by  adding  first  sufficient 
acid  to  render  the  bath  slightly  acid,  /.  c,  that  blue 
litmus  paper  is  just  colofeti  red;  then  again  enough 
sodium  peroxide  for  the  bath  to  show  a  slight  alka- 
line reaction,  i.  c,  that  retl  litmus  pajx^r  is  just  col- 
ored blue.  When  the  silk  has  been  placed  in  the 
slightly  alkaline  bath,  the  latter  is  in  the  course  of  an 


WET    CLEANING.  1/5 

hour  heated  to  between  176°  and  212°  F.,  which  is  best 
effected  by  means  of  steam  or  a  gas  or  petroleum  flame. 
Steam  can  only  be  recommended  when  it  can  be  in- 
directly introduced.  Direct  firing  with  coal  or  wood 
is  not  suitable  because  heating  cannot  be  properly 
regulated.  Allow  the  siik  to  remain  three  to  four 
hours  in  the  bath  at  176°  F.,  handling  it  occasionally 
and  taking  care  that  it  is  always  covered  by  the 
bleaching  bath.  The  silk  when  taken  from  the  bleach- 
ing bath  is  passed  through  a  lukewarm  bath  slightly 
soured  with  acetic  acid,  and  to  which,  if  required,  a 
trace  of  a  blue  coloring  matter  has  been  a'dded.  After 
bluing,  pass  the  goods,  according  to  requirement, 
through  a  weaker  or  stronger  gelatine  bath,  to  which 
some  acetic  acid  has  been  added,  extract,  and  finish 
at  once.  It  may  happen  that  the  bleaching  bath  has 
been  somewhat  too  alkaline.  In  this  case  It  bleaches 
more  rapidly  and  better,  but  the  silk  loses  its  luster. 
To  restore  the  luster  rinse  the  goods  very  thoroughly 
after  the  souring,  then  bring  them  into  a  well-lathering 
castile  soap  bath,  boil  for  15  minutes,  rinse  three  times 
in  water  of  86°  to  100°  F.,  brighten  with  acetic  acid, 
and  blue. 

For  silk  articles  the  sodium  peroxide  bath  may  be 
somewhat  more  concentrated  than  for  wool'ens.  After 
bleaching,  pass  the  articles  through  a  water  bath, 
then  through  a  bath  consisting  of  alcohol  and  a  small 
quantity  of  glycerin,  and  dry  at  a  low  temperatiu^e 
up  to  77°  F. 

The  use  of  sodium  peroxide  is  of  special  advantage 
when    sufficient    bleaching    cannot    be    effected    with 


176   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

sulphurous  acid.  For  bleaching  articles  which  have 
turned  xery  yellow,  the  two  processes  may  be  combined. 

For  garments  with  wool,  silk  and  cotton,  the  fol- 
lowing comi>osition  of  a  bleaching  bath  may  be  recom- 
mended; Dissolve  for  every  100  quarts  of  cold  water, 
3  lbs.  epsom  salt,  6  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  and  add,  with 
constant  stirring,  i  lb.  sodium  peroxide. 

Bleaching  of  jute.  For  this  puqxjse  the  follov^^ng 
method  has  been  recommended:  Bring  the  jute  into 
a  sulphuric  acid  bath  of  the  usual  strength,  then 
rinse  thoroughly  and  bleach  by  means  of  chloride  of 
lime.  For  bleaching  several  chloride  baths  of  different 
strengths  are  used,  commencing  with  the  strongest 
bath  and  reducing  the  degrees  of  chloride  of  lime 
solution  from  bath  to  bath  until  the  jute  is  white. 
On  the  other  hand,  it  is  asserted  that  jute  yam  does 
not  become  white  by  bleaching  ^^^th  chloride  of  lime, 
but  at  the  best  only  acquires  a  reddish  cream  color. 
For  this  reason  bleaching  with  potassium  perman- 
ganate is  recommended.  The  jute  fiber  is  in  this  case 
cleaned  with  soda  or  water-glass  at  a  temperature  of 
148°  to  158°  F.;  it  is  then  passed  through  a  bath  of 
potassixmi  permanganate,  and  the  bistre  of  manganese 
is  finally  detached  by  means  of  sulphurous  acid.  Jute 
is  very  sensitive,  and  should,  for  the  purpose  of  cleaning, 
be  only  treated  with  gently  acting  alkaline  agents  or 
ver)'  weak  alkaline  lyes. 

The  following  method  may  also  be  recommended: 
Soak  the  jute  for  2  hours  in  a  bath  containing  3  4  oz. 
of  water-glass  per  gallon  of  water,  maintaining  the 
bath  at  a   temperature  of   140°   F.;  then  rinse,   and 


WET    CLEANING.  I77 

bleach  at  86*^  F.  in  alkaline  sodium  chloride  solution 
which  contains  about  i  per  cent,  of  chlorine.  When 
taken  from  the  latter  bath,  rinse  thoroughly,  sour  in 
a  cold  hydrochloric  acid  bath  at  1-4  to  1-3  Be.,  add  a 
small  quantity  of  sulphurous  acid,  and  after  half  an 
hour  rinse  thoroughly. 

Electric  bleaching.  By  electric  bleaching  is  under- 
stood bleaching  with  a  substitute  for  bleaching  pow- 
der, prepared  by  an  electric  process,  but  used  in  the 
same  way  as  the  ordinary  preparation.  The  use  of 
ordinary  bleaching  powder  is  connected  with  many 
drawbacks,  and  to  overcome  these,  attempts  were  made 
to  replace  this  substance  by  some  other  bleaching 
agent.  These  attempts  resulted  in  the  production  of 
an  electrolytic  bleaching  liquor,  analogous  in  composi- 
tion to  bleaching  powder,  except  that  complete  soluble 
sodium  compounds  were  present  in  place  of  the  lime 
compounds  that  always  left  an  insoluble  residue. 

The  most  important  constituent  of  bleaching  pow- 
der is  calciimi  hypochlorite,  and  in  addition  the  com- 
pounds CI — Ca — OCl,  calcium  hydroxide  and  calcium 
chloride  are  present.  The  electrolytic  bleaching  liquor 
which  represents  a  perfectly  clear  fluid,  contains,  on 
the  other  hand,  sodium  hypochlorite,  NaOCl.  In  dis- 
solving bleaching  powder  a*residue  is  obtained,  and  the 
bleaching  liquor  produced  always  shows,  even  after 
careful  settlement  in  the  air,  turbidity  due  to  particles 
of  lime.  Bleaching  liquor  made  by  the  electrolysis  of 
sodium  chloride  (common  salt,  NaCl)  does  not  show 
this  defect,  as  it  does  not  contain  lime.  Various  forms 
of  apparatus    have   been   devised   for  the  electrolj^sis 


178      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

of  salt  solutions.  Figs.  11  and  12  show  Haas  and 
Oettel's  apparatus,  specially  designed  for  cleaning  es- 
tablishments and  laundries,  which  appears  to  be  the 
most    satisfactory    and    most    extensively    cmy)loyed. 


Fig.   II. — Electric  Bleaching  Apparatus. 


"With  no  volts  continuous  current  taken  direct  ofT 
an  electric  lighting  circuit,  and  with  the  use  of  about 
55  lbs.  of  salt,  the  liquor  for  bleaching  about  11,000 
lbs.  of  dry  weight  of  wash  can  be  prepared  without 
the  emplo\Tnent  of  expensive  ])umps  and  without  cool- 
ing contrivance. 

The  apparatus.  Fig.  11,  consists  of  a  well-pitched 
wooden  vat  for  dissolving  the  salt.  The  vat  is  pro- 
\'idcd  \snth  a  stirring  ajiparatus  and  tap  for  discharg- 
ing the  salt  solution  or  brine  into  the  cell.  The  cell 
of  the  electrolyser,  Fig.  12,  is  a  stoneware  vat,  in 
which  the  brine  is  subjected  to  the  action  of  the  elec- 


WET    CLEANING. 


179 


trie  current  between  electrodes  of  a  graphitoid  ma- 
terial which  is  much  cheaper  than  platinum,  but, 
nevertheless,  more  resistant.  The  chief  aim  is  to 
prepare  from  the  brine  a  clear  and  powerful  bleaching 
liquor  consisting  chiefly  of  sodium  hypochlorite. 


Fig.   12. — Electrolyser. 


Working  ten  hours  daily  the  electrodes  require  re 
newing  only  once  in  i^  years.  The  connecting  con- 
tacts are  made  of  a  non-oxidizing  metal  and  the  dis- 
charge-taps and  bottom-valves  of  the  vessels,  of  stone- 
ware, so  that  all  portions  of  the  apparatus  are  at  the 
utmost  protected  from  the  action  of  chlorine. 

For  the  preparation  of  the  salt  solution  or  brine 
about  half  a  pound  of  salt  (rock  salt)  to  each  gallon 
of  water  is  dissolved  by  stirring.  The  solution  is 
allowed  to  settle  for  about  one  hour,  when  it  is  drawn 
off  and  passed  through  the  electrolyser  at  the  rate 
of  from  10  to  13  gallons  per  hour.  The  clear  bleaching 
liquor  thus  produced  contains  about  3  grammes  of 
free  chlorine  per  quart  and  is  drawn  off  into  a  collect- 
ing tank  of  stoneware. 


l8o      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Wet  cleaning  light-colored  wool  and  silk  articles. 
Cream-colored,  rose-colored,  and  pale  blue  articles  are 
carefully  washed  wth  soap.  The  first  two  colors  are 
carefully  brij^htencd  by  re-dyeing,  while  the  latter 
color  is  re\'ived  by  means  of  a  sulphuric  acid  bath. 
Articles  with  dark  colors  are  washed  with  quillaia  de- 
coction with  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  acetic 
acid,  rinsed,  and  passed  through  a  bath  strongly 
soured  with  acetic  acid.  This,  of  course,  applies  only 
to  smaller  articles.  The  use  of  soap  bark  is  not  recom- 
mended for  delicately  colored  silk  articles.  In  most 
cases  it  will  be  found  advisable  to  first  dr\'  clean 
articles  of  this  nature.  If  any  stains  and  soil  remain 
the  articles  should  then  be  brushed  vnth  cold  water 
to  which  common  salt  has  bet-n  added.  If  they  are 
badly  soiled  they  may  be  brushed  with  a  cold  Tetrapole 
solution,  rinsed  in  lukewarm  water  and  soured  in  a 
cold  acetic  acid  bath. 

Woolen  under garmaits  are  washed  in  a  lukewarm 
soap  bath  and  rinsed  in  lukewarm  water.  When 
washing  in  the  machine  add  some  ammonia  to  the 
soap  bath.  Rinse  in  two  or  three  waters  and  immedi- 
ately extract.  When  taken  from  the  extractor  draw 
them  smooth  and  stretch  them  gently  in  ever>'  direc- 
tion before  dr>nng. 

Flannel  undershirts,  etc.,  may  also  be  soaked  in 
lukewarm  water,  then  washed  in  lukewarm  soap  suds, 
rinsed,  and  dried;  or  wash  them  in  milk-warm  suds 
of  soft  soap,  extract,  and  dr}*.  Flannels  thus  treated 
are  said  to  remain  soft,  and  do  not  shrink. 

White  cloth  caps  and  felt  hats  are  best  wet  cleaned  by 


WET    CLEANING.  l8l 

brushing  them  with  a  neutral  soap  solution  and 
sponging  off  with  clear  water. 

White  woolen,  knit  or  woven  articles,  such  as  sweaters, 
etc.,  are  wet  cleaned  in  a  neutral  soap  solution  con- 
taining borax,  and  rinsed  in  dilute  ammonia. 

White  silk  handkerchiefs  are  washed  in  a  lukewarm 
bath  of  castile  soap  until  sufficiently  clean;  they  are 
then  rinsed  in  lukewarm  water,  blued,  squeezed  out 
and  wrapped  in  linen  cloths  in  which  they  remain 
until  sufficiently  dry  to  allow  of  being  ironed.  The 
soap  bath  should  be  neutral  and  lather  well;  some 
ammonia  may  also  be  added. 

White  silk  stockings  are  washed  in  a  warm  soap 
bath  and  rinsed  in  fresh  water;  if  necessary,  they  may 
be  sulphured  and  blued.  An  excellent  plan  is  to  dry 
them,  if  possible,  upon  forms  and,  while  still  moist, 
smooth  them  with  a  glass  polisher. 

Colored  silk  cloths  are  best  washed  with  decoction 
of  quillaia  bark  instead  of  soap. 

Wet  cleaning  silk  gloves.  Wash  the  gloves  in  a  bath 
of  white  soap  at  122°  F.  and,  if  necessary,  repeat  the 
cleaning  in  a  fresh  soap  bath;  then  rinse  carefully,  first 
in  warm  water,  and  then  in  several  cold  waters.  An 
addition  of  alcohol  is  also  recommended.  After  clean- 
ing, dry  the  gloves  as  much  as  possible  by  pressing 
between  linen  cloths,  apply  a  dressing  of  fish-glue 
solution,  iron,  and  brush  in  the  direction  of  the  threads 
to  impart  luster. 

Colored  silk  gloves  are  cleaned  with  benzine,  since 
by  this  treatment  the  colors  run  least.  Cleaning 
with  soap  should  be  done  as  quickly  as  possible  to 


l82      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

prevent  the  colors  from  being  too  strongly  attacked 
by  the  soap.  Rinse  carefully  in  acidulated  waters  and 
remove  the  water  as  quickly  as  possible  by  pressing 
the  gloves  between  cloths. 

Cleaning  fine-colored  embroideries.  Fine  silk  em- 
broideries and  all  other  kinds  which  will  not  stand 
wet  cleaning,  have  to  be  chemically  cleaned.  Those 
which  can  be  wet  cleaned  are  carefully  washed  in  a 
solution  of  castile  soap.  Coffee  and  other  stains,  if 
present,  are  carefully  removed  with  can  de  Javelle. 
It  should,  however,  be  borne  in  mind  that  by  the 
action  of  chloride  of  lime  a  red  color  may  acquire  a 
dull  tone,  and  silk  embroideries  or  fine  lace  insertions 
in  a  cover  may  also  suffer  thereby;  hence  the  greatest 
care  should  be  exercised.  WTiite  silk,  as  is  well  known, 
turns  yellow  by  the  action  of  chlorine.  Finally  rinse 
in  cold  water,  pass  the  articles  through  an  acetic  acid 
bath,  and  dry  between  linen  cloths.  A  small  quantity 
of  turpentine  mav  also  be  added  to  the  soap  bath. 
To  prevent  the  fciors  from  running,  quick  work  is 
imperative.  Should,  in  washing  colored  embroideries, 
the  colors  bleed  very  much  and  stain  the  white  por- 
tion, the  trouble  may  possibly  be  removed  by  passing 
the  article  through  lukewarm  water  to  which  a  little 
eau  de  Javelle  has  been  added.  Should,  however,  the 
stains  not  disappear  by  this  treatment,  the  article 
should,  %vithout  being  previously  rinsed,  be  bleached 
by  exposiu-e  to  the  air.  Afterwards  it  is  rinsed,  soured, 
wrapped  in  a  cloth,  extracted,  and  ironed  while  wet. 

Eaii  de  Javelle  is  prepared  as  follows:  Stir  2  lbs. 
of  dry  chloride  of  lime  in  an  earthenware  vessel  with 


WET    CLEANING.  183 

water  to  a  thick  paste;  dissolve  4  lbs.  of  crystallized 
soda  in  10  quarts  of  water,  and  slowly  add  this  solu- 
tion, stirring  constantly,  to  the  chloride  of  lime  paste. 
Allow  the  mixture  to  settle  and  use  the  clear  super- 
natant fluid.  It  should  be  well  corked  and  kept  in  a 
dark  place.  Another  formula  is  as  follows:  To  a 
solution  of  I  lb.  of  chloride  of  lime  add  i  lb.  of  ammonia- 
soda,  allow  to  settle  and  use  the  clear  supernatant  fluid. 

When  colored  wool  and  silk  embroideries  are  to  be 
wet  cleaned,  the  chief  care  is  that  the  colors  do  not 
run.  For  this  purpose  prepare  a  solution  of  about 
I  part  by  weight  of  castile  soap  for  every  500  parts 
by  weight  of  water.  The  use  of  a  soap  too  alkaline, 
as  well  as  an  addition  of  soda,  is  to  be  carefully  avoided. 
With  this  soap  solution  moisten  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  bran  so  that  the  entire  mass  is  moist,  but  not  wet 
enough  to  drip.  Place  the  bran  about  J^  inch  deep 
upon  the  embroidery  spread  out  on  a  table,  allow  it  to 
remain  for  about  10  minutes,  then  remove  it,  and 
rub  any  remaining  soiled  places  with  dry  bran.  If 
necessary,  repeat  the  operation.  Should  the  colors 
have  become  dull,  they  may  be  revived  by  moistening 
a  fresh  supply  of  bran  with  oxalic  acid  solution — 3^  oz. 
of  acid  in  i  quart  of  water — and  apply  as  before.  After 
removing  the  bran  the  articles  should  not  be  dried  at 
too  high  a  temperature,  but  should  be  freed  from 
moisture  by  placing  them  between  cloths.  They  are 
finally  treated  Vvdth  a  soft  brush. 

The  w^ashing  of  small  table  covers  with  colored 
embroidery  often  causes  the  cleaner  much  trouble, 
especially  when   the   colors   have   already  run.     The 


184      DRY   CLEANER,    SCOURER,   GARMENT  DYER. 

best  way  to  proceed  is  as  follows:  Place  the  article 
smoothly  upon  the  table  and  scrub  both  sides  with 
cold  soap  suds;  rinse  quickly,  draw  throuj^'h  a  weak 
sulphuric  acid  bath,  rin^e  again,  roll  up  between  two 
clean  and  dr>'  white  linen  cloths,  and  extract.  Should 
the  colors  of  the  embroidery  be  ven-  delicate,  the  ex- 
tractor should  first  be  set  in  motion  and  the  article, 
rolled  in  the  cloths,  thro\\'n  in  while  the  machine  is 
running.  Ladies'  silk  shawls  and  scarfs  should  be 
treated  in  the  same  manner.  \Mien  the  colors  have 
already  nm.  pre\'ious  to  washing,  handle  the  articles 
in  hot  soap  suds — ^^-ithout  allo\\-ing  them  to  stand — 
until  the  color  stains  are  extracted.  Should  this  not 
produce  the  desired  effect,  add  a  small  quantity  of 
chlorine  to  the  soap  suds,  rinse,  sour,  and  extract  as 
above;  the  colors  will  be  re\nved  by  the  acid. 

Should  there  be  ladies'  scarfs  with  variegated  colors 
among  the  pieces,  it  is  b>?st  to  place  them  imme- 
diately upon  leaving  the  extractor  in  starcii  powder 
or  talcum,  and  bnish  them  when  dry. 

A  large  German  establishment,  where  many  dozens 
of  antimacassars,  cushion-covers,  etc.,  are  received 
and  washed  every  week,  has  adopted  the  following 
plan  for  cleaning  colored  embroideries  on  a  white  or 
light-colored  fabric.  These  embroideries,  which  are 
usually  executed  in  silk  or  mercerized  cotton,  are  often 
received  in  a  very  dirty  condition  and  stained  with 
grease,  wine,  coffee,  etc. 

The  goods  are  first  dr}'  cleaned  to  remove  grease. 
The  benzine  affects  ver>'  few  colors,  there  being  only 
a  few  reds  which  are  soluble  in  that  liquid.     These 


WET   CLEANING.  185 

are  recognized  by  a  preliminary  test,  and  goods  con- 
taining them  must  be  treated  by  themselves. 

When  the  goods  cleaned  with  benzine  are  nearly 
dry  they  are  sorted  into  various  grades  of  dirtiness. 
Two  soap  baths  are  then  prepared  of  neutral  grain 
soap,  one  warm,  the  other  cold,  and  both  lathering 
well.  The  goods  are  first  soaked  in  the  cold  soap 
bath,  and  chen  spread  out  on  a  board  without  wring- 
ing, and  brushed  over  \\nth  some  of  the  warm  soap 
bath.  The  goods  are  then  passed  through  a  clean 
warm  soap  bath  and  rinsed  three  times,  twace  with 
warm,  and  finally  with  cold,  water.  A  passage  through 
cold  weak  acetic  acid  is  then  given  to  liven  the  colors, 
and  the  goods  are  dried. 

If  any  bleeding  -takes  place  during  the  brushing, 
transfer  to  the  clean  warm  soap  bath  as  quickly  as 
possible,  handle  briskly  in  it  for  a  few  minutes,  rinse 
thoroughly  but  with  all  expedition,  and  dry  imme- 
diately after  the  acetic  acid  bath.  If  the  warm  soap 
bath  '^'ill  not  remove  the  color  which  has  bled  on  to 
the  ground,  a  boiling  bath  must  be  tried,  but  it  must 
be  ven,"  weak  and  its  action  should  not  be  unduly 
prolonged.  If  this  treatment  also  fails,  tr^^  a  very  weak 
bath  of  chloride  of  lime,  pour  in  very  dilute  sulphuric 
acid,  rinse  thoroughly,  liven,  and  dry.  Much  depends 
upon  speed,  and  if  these  various  processes  have  to  be 
gone  through  in  succession,  the  need  of  the  most  rapid 
working  is  all  the  more  urgent.  Bleaching  powder 
must,  however,  not  be  used  with  silk  embroideries,  as  it 
turns  them  yellow. 

If  there  are  anv  stains  left  in  the  washed  goods 


l86      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

they  will  probably  be  due  to  the  dye  or  to  iron.  These 
are  removed  by  local  treatment,  the  one  sort  wth 
chloride  of  lime,  the  other  with  oxalic  acid.  The  stain 
is  dabbed  with  the  solution  and  the  place  is  carefully 
freed  from  it  after  the  stain  has  disappeared  by  repeated 
applications  of  clean  water.  Care  must  be  taken  that 
the  solutions  are  not  too  strong,  and  particularly  that 
the  bleaching  solution  contains  no  undissolved  particles, 
as  they  \vill  cause  holes. 

Special  care  is  required  in  extracting  the  goods  be- 
fore dr>'ing.  A  clean  woolen  cloth  is  laid  out  and  the 
embroidered  articles  are  spread  on  it  and  rolled  up 
in  it,  but  in  such  a  way  that  the  colored  and  white 
parts  of  the  articles  are  not  in  contact.  The  rol  is 
then  extracted  just  as  it  is.  When  the  roll  has  been 
in  the  machine  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  it  is  undone, 
and  the  embroidered  articles  are  dried. 

Many  dyes  bleed  the  moment  they  are  wetted, 
others  only  after  a  rather  long  washing  with  soap. 
The  surest  safeguards  against  bleeding  are  the  use  of 
moderate  temperatures  and  the  entrusting  of  the  work 
to  a  skilled  and  dexterous  hand  who  will  do  the  clean- 
ing with  the  utmost  expedition.  In  many  cases  the 
addition  of  a  little  acetic  acid  or  common  salt  to  the 
soap  bath  is  a  great  help,  especially  for  goods  that  are 
not  too  dirty.  Quillaia  decoction  with  a  few  drops  of 
tun)cntine  often  answers  better  than  soap.  If  the 
embroidery  has  a  lining  which  has  been  dyed  with  a 
dye  which  is  not  fast,  nothing  can  be  done  but  to  re- 
move the  lining  and  wash  it  separately.  It  may  also 
be  noted  that  the  colors  most  likelv  to  bleed  are  olives. 


WET    CLEANING.  187 

certain  greens  and  yellows,  and  also  dark  red,  violet, 
Bordeaux,  and  orange. 

Washing  laces,  blonde-laces,  embroideries  on  linen. 
White  imitation  (cotton)  laces,  as  well  as  embroideries 
on  linen,  are  cleaned  in  lukewarm  soap  suds,  bleached, 
and  blued  as  given  below  under  curtain  washing. 
Either  pin  the  lace,  while  wet,  to  a  cushion,  or  iron  it, 
care  being  taken  not  to  get  the  design  out  of  shape. 
Laces  and  curtains  should  not  be  rubbed  or  boiled 
too  long. 

Real  laces  and  silk  blonde-laces  with  very  delicate 
designs  should  be  dry  cleaned,  any  remaining  stains 
being  removed  by  local  treatment.  If  such  articles 
have  to  be  wet  cleaned  proceed  as  follows:  Fold  the 
lace  carefully  and  fasten  with  a  few  stitches  along  the 
edge.  Next  place  it  in  a  little  bag  made  of  fine  old 
linen,  which  should  then  be  sewed  up.  Place  this  in  a 
vessel  of  pure  olive  oil,  and  soak  for  24  hours.  The 
next  day  boil  one-quarter  of  an  hour  in  soap  suds  made 
by  dissolving  the  soap  in  soft  water.  Rinse  in  cold 
water  without  squeezing  the  lace,  until  the  water  re- 
mains clear;  then  pass  it  through  thin,  slightly  blue 
starch  water;  take  out  of  the  bag;  press  slightly  be- 
tween the  fingers,  and  iron  with  a  hot  iron. 

Since  real  laces,  in  order  to  preserve  them,  are  very 
rarely  washed,  they  are  apt  to  be  rather  rotten  and 
very  yellow.  If  they  have  ever  been  wrongly  treated 
they  are  harder  to  clean  than  others.  By  soaking 
them  in  olive  oil  as  recommended  above,  the  thread 
which  has  become  rotten  and  thin  from  age  or  from 
washing,  is  restored  to  its  former  elasticity. 


l88      DRY    CI.KANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYFR. 

Another  method  is  as  follows :  Wind  the  lace  smooth- 
ly and  tishtly  about  a  wide  bottle  prevnously  covered 
with  old  white  linen  or  similar  material.  Tack  each 
end  of  the  lace  with  a  needle  and  thread  to  keep  it 
smooth,  and  be  careful  in  wrapping  not  to  crumple 
or  fold  in  any  of  the  scallops  or  jjearlins.  After  the 
lace  is  on  the  bottle  soak  it  thoroughly  to  the  inmost 
folds  with  olive  oil  by  means  of  a  clean  sponge.  Have 
ready  in  a  kettle  a  strong  cold  lather  of  soft  water  and 
castile  soap.  Fill  the  bottle  with  cold  water  to  pre- 
vent its  bursting  during  boiling,  cork  well,  and  place 
it  upright  in  the  suds,  with  a  string  round  the 
neck  secured  to  the  ears  or  handle  of  the  kettle, 
to  prevent  its  knocking  about  and  breaking  while 
over  the  fire.  Let  it  boil  in  the  suds  for  an  hour  or 
more  till  the  lace  is  clean.  Then  dry  on  the  bottle  in 
the  sun.  When  dry  take  the  lace  from  the  bottle  and 
wind  it  around  a  wide  ribbon  spool;  or  Jay  it  in  long 
folds,  place  it  within  a  sheet  of  smooth  white  paper  and 
press  it  for  a  few  days  in  a  lar^e  book. 

Instead  of  a  bottle  a  roimd  i)iece  of  hard  wood  about 
lo  inches  long  and  4  inches  in  diameter  may  be  used. 
The  wood  with  the  lace  wound  about  it,  and  the  whole 
covered  with  a  white  linen  cloth,  is  worked  in  the 
soap  bath  between  the  hands  till  the  lace  is  clean. 

A  perforated  cylinder  of  white  porcelain,  Fig.  13, 
may  also  be  preferably  employed  in  place  of  a  bottle. 
Cover  the  cylinder  with  fine  muslin,  wrap  the  lace 
about  the  cylinder  and  cover  the  whole  with  muslin. 
Boil  in  soap  suds,  rinse  in  cold  water,  starch  and  dry. 
the  latter  being  quickly  effected  in  consequence  of  the 


WET    CLEANING.  I  89 

many  perforations  of  the  cylinder.     When  dry  remove 
the  lace  from  the  cylinder. 

Cleaning  white  curtains.  Most  of  the  dirt  and  soil 
contained  on  curtains  is  held  there  by  the  starch  con- 
tained on  them.  Therefore,  the  first  step  in  cleaning 
these  articles  should  be  to  remove  the  starch.     This 


Fig.  13. 

may  be  done  by  using  a  malt  extract  bath,  4  pounds  of 
extract  to  100  quarts  of  water,  at  a  temperature  of 
120°,  and  soaking  the  curtains  in  it  for  several  hours. 
The  malt  extract  converts  the  starch  to  sugar,  which 
is  easily  washed  from  the  material  along  with  most 
of  the  dirt.  After  the  starch  has  been  removed  the 
curtains  should  be  washed  in  a  hot,  fatty  soap  and  soda, 
bath,  and  then  placed  in  a  bath  containing  soap  and 
soda  and  a  small  amount  of  perborate.  This  bath  is 
slowly  brought  to  a  boil  and  the  curtains  boiled  for 
ten  minutes,  at  the  end  of  which  time  they  should 
be  removed  and  rinsed.  Next  treat  the  curtains  for 
10  minutes  in  a  weak  sulphuric  acid  bath  with  ultra- 
marine. Then  starch  with  boiled  wheat  starch,  adding 
some  talctun  to  the  latter  to  give  the  curtains  the  ap- 
pearance of  newness.  Stir  the  talcum  into  the  cold 
starch,  and  boil,  but  only  for  a  short  time,  as  by  too 


I90      DRY    CLEAN KR,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DVKR. 

long  boiling  the  starch  loses  its  adhesive  power.  Pass 
the  curtains  as  hot  as  possible  through  the  diluted 
starch,  squeeze  well,  and  put  them  in  the  curtain 
stretcher. 

Crcam-colorcd  curtains  are  treated  exactly  as  above, 
except  that  Burmol  is  used  in  place  of  perborate.  The 
Burmol  strips  the  old  faded  color  and  an  even  retinting 
must  then  be  done.  For  tinting  a  cream  color  use  a 
small  amount  of  Diamine  Yellow.  There  are  a  num- 
ber of  ecru  shades  on  the  market,  but  if  one  prefers 
he  can  make  his  own  mixture  by  using  a  small  amount 
of  yellow  shaded  with  blue  and  red.  One  part  yellow, 
y^  part  of  blue,  and  }  e  part  of  red  makes  a  good  shade. 

Cream-colored  curtains,  which  have  been  dyed  vsnth 
dye-woods  or  catechu,  are  recognized  after  washing 
by  their  gray  or  brownish  color.  Their  original  color 
is  restored  by  passing  them  through  a  bath  to  which 
a  few  drops  of  hydrochloric  acid  have  been  added; 
subsequent  thorough  rinsing  is  absolutely  necessary, 
otherwise  the  threads  would  be  burnt  by  the  acid. 

To  curtains  that  have  a  gray  dirty  tone,  a  brighter 
color  may  be  imparted  by  passing  them  through  a 
warm  bath  containing  diamine  yellow  with  the  addi- 
tion of  Auramine  II.  The  color  of  curtains  may  also 
be  revived  in  a  cold-water  bath  to  which  a  few  drops 
of  nitrate  of  iron  have  been  added. 

Curtains  which  \\\\\  stand  washing  in  the  machine 
should  be  put  in  a  coarse  net  unless  the  attendant 
knows  his  business  thoroughly,  when  they  may  be 
put  in  loose.  In  any  case  run  them  a  few  minutes 
with  cold  water  or  vcr>'  weak  soda.     After  drawing 


WET    CLEANING.  I9I 

off  this  water,  run  them  in  strong  soap  suds  with 
a  Httle  soda,  taking  care  there  is  plenty  of  Hquor  to 
prevent  the  curtains  from  being  torn.  Begin  cold 
and  warm  up,  and  after  about  ten  to  fifteen  minutes 
draw  off  the  lye  and  replace  it  with  fresh.  Next  boil 
the  curtains.  Then  rinse,  first  warm  and  then  cold; 
blue  in  the  machine,  extract,  and  finish  with  wheat 
or  potato  starch.     Finally  dry  on  a  stretching  frame. 

Washing  colored  curtains.  When  curtains  inter- 
woven with  colored  yam  are  to  be  cleaned  they  should 
be  examined  as  to  whether  the  colors  have  already 
bled  on  to  the  white  ground.  Colored  curtains  should 
be  tested  as  to  the  action  of  soap  on  them.  If  the 
colors  are  very  fugitive,  the  curtains  are  washed  by 
hand  as  quickly  as  possible  in  a  cold  soap  bath  made 
with  as  neutral  a  soap  as  can  be  got.  Care  must  be 
had  tCi  keep  different  colored  articles  separate.  If 
the  dyes  are  fast  the  machine  can  be  used.  First 
rinse  the  curtains  for  a  few  minutes  in  cold  water, 
then  run  them  successively  in  two  lukewarm — rather 
cold  than  warm — soap  baths,  rinse  and  add  to  the 
last  rinsing  water  some  acetic  acid  to  liven  the  colors. 
The  machine  should  not  be  stopped  during  the  changes ' 
in  the  liquors,  to  prevent  colored  parts  lying  on  white 
parts  and  bleeding  onto  them. 

Red  cotton  curtains  are  brushed  cold.  If  they 
contain  black  or  dark  portions,  they  are  scoured  hot 
m  the  sulphirric  acid  bath,  rinsed,  and  extracted. 

Washing  veils.  Different  treatment  is  required  for 
white  and  colored  veils.  While  veils  are  washed  in 
blood- warm  soap  water,  gently  wrung  out,  rinsed  in 


192   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DVFR. 

cold  water,  blued,  starched,  beaten  half-dr>'  between 
the  hands,  and  finally  hung  up  to  dr>'  thoroughly. 

Black  a>td  colored  veils  are  cleaned  by  rinsing  in 
soda  and  water  to  remove  the  dirt;  then  in  pure 
water  to  remove  the  soda,  and  finally  in  a  little  gum- 
water  to  stiffen  and  crisp  them.  They  are  clapped 
half-dr}'  between  the  hands,  and  finally  hung  up  to 
dr>'  thoroughly. 

Mourning  veils  and  crapes  of  the  better  qxiality  should 
be  cleaned  with  benzine,  as  they  will  not  stand  soap. 
After  cleaning  the\'  are  dressed  \\\xh  a  size  j^rej^ared 
according  to  one  of  the  follovsnng  formula:.  Both  sizes 
make  the  fabric  practically  waterproof. 

1.  Dissolve  4  ozs.  of  beeswax  in  about  3  quarts  of 
l)enzine  on  the  water  bath,  cool,  and  make  up  to  4 
gallons  with  benzine. 

2.  Use  a  solution  of  4  ozs.  each  of  bleached  shellac 
and  beeswax  in  5  quarts  of  methyl  alcohol.  Dissolve 
first  the  ingredients  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  solvent 
and  subsequently  dilute  with  the  remainder.  This 
size  gives  a  stiffer  dressing 

Washing  silk  and  silver  laces.  Place  the  laces  in 
curdled  milk  for  24  hours.  Stir  a  piece  of  good  soap 
reduced  to  sha\'ings,  in  2  quarts  of  soft  water,  add  a 
proportionate  quantity  of  honey  and  fresh  oxgall, 
and  beat  the  whole  for  some  time.  If  it  becomes  too 
thick,  add  water  so  that  a  thin  i)aste  is  formed.  Allow 
this  to  stand  for  12  hours  and  then  ajiply  it  to  the 
wet  laces.  Then  wrap  a  moist  cloth  around  a  mangle 
roller,  around  the  cloth  the  laces,  and  around  the 
latter  another  moist  cloth.    The  laces  are  then  mangled. 


WET    CLEANING.  I93 

they  being  occasionally  moistened  with  water*  and 
several  times  brushed  over  with  the  above-mentioned 
paste.  Next  soak  gtim  arabic  in  water  until  completely 
dissolved,  add  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar,  and  when 
this  is  completely  dissolved,  and  the  solution  has 
become  clear,  immerse  the  laces  in  it;  then  mangle 
them  smooth  between  two  cloths,  and  hang  them  up 
to  dry. 

Washing  gold  laces.  Place  them  over  night  in  a 
weak  solution  of  acetic  acid  and  then  proceed  in  the 
same  manner  as  with  silver  laces. 

If  the  laces,  etc.,  are  worn  so  that  the  white  ground 
shows  through,  they  may  be  restored  as  follows: 
Extract  50  parts  by  weight  of  shellac,  2  of  dragon's 
blood,  and  2  of  tumeric  root  with  strong  alcohol,  and 
decant  the  ruby-red  extract.  Apply  the  extract  with 
a  camel 's-hair  brush  to  the  articles  to  be  restored, 
and  then  pass  over  them  at  the  height  of  several 
inches  a  hot  flat-iron,  so  that  the  laces  are  only  ex- 
posed to  the  heat  without  comirig  in  actual  contact 
^"/ith  the  iron. 

Cleaning  gold  and  silver  galloons.  If  these  have 
been  ripped  off  and  are  not  too  dirty,  they  may  be 
washed  with  rectified  turpentine.  They  may  also  be  ^ 
soaked  for  some  hours  in  water  to  which  acetic  acid 
has  been  added,  and  finally  brushed  with  soap  solu- 
tion by  means  of  a  soft  brush.  For  cleaning  gold 
embroideries  on  a  dark  ground,  rouge  is  recommended. 
For  gold  and  silver  embroideries  on  a  light  ground 
use  very  fine  whiting  or  Vienna  lime,  and  gently  and 
carefully  rub  the  embroidery  with  a  soft  brush  dipped 


194       '^•*'*     CI  lANFR,    SCOLRER,    GARMKNT    DVKR. 

into  the  dry  |X)wder,  so  that  nothing  drops  upon  the 
fabric  beneath. 

An  excellent  plan  for  cleaning  gold  and  silver  gal- 
loons, embroideries,  fringes,  etc..  is  as  follow-s:  Dip 
a  small  pad  of  cotton  in  pulverized  tartar  and  rub  the 
articles  till  they  are  bright,  taking  care  not  to  soil 
the  fabric  beneath. 

Cleaning  panasols.  The  cleaning  of  parasol^  on 
the  frame  presents  many  difficulties,  but  is  apt  to  be 
a  remunerative  branch  of  the  cleaner's  business, 
especially  during  the  spring  and  summer  months.  On 
receiving  such  articles  they  should  be  carefully  ex- 
amined as  to  their  fitness  for  cleaning,  as  they  are 
frequently  worn  in  the  creases  and  damaged  on  top. 
Such  parasols  can  only  be  cleaned  with  benzine;  they 
would  not  stand  wet  washing,  as  they  would  immedi- 
ately split.  It  is,  therefore,  best  not  to  undertake 
them  at  all. 

White  silk  and  cotton  parasols  are  best  cleaned  on 
the  frame  by  washing  in  cold  soap  suds  and  scrubbing 
the  crease  streaks  with  a  soft  brush.  Care  must  be 
taken  not  to  damage  the  fabric,  and  if  there  are  doubts 
as  to  its  condition,  a  sponge  should  be  used  instead  of 
a  brush.  Next  rinse  the  parasol  in  warm  water,  then 
pour  over  it  a  dilute  solution  of  sulphuric  or  saccharic 
acid,  and  rinse  again  in  clean  water  to  remove  every 
trace  of  acid  from  both  the  goods  and  frame.  The 
parasol,  while  open,  is  now  ruV)l)ed  off  vsnth  a  piece  of 
chamois,  and  pieces  of  white  paper  are  inserted  between 
the  metal  parts  and  the  goods;  it  is  then  whirled  a 
couple  of  minutes  in  warm  air  and  then  allowed  to 


WET    CLEANING.  I95 

dry  while  still  raised.  White  cotton  parasols  should 
be  treated  with  warm  eau  de  Javelle  instead  of  saccharic 
acid.  The  handle  should,  if  in  any  way  possible,  be 
kept  dry,  otherwise  the  color  and  lacquer  are  likely  to 
suffer. 

Colored  and  checkered  parasols  are  cleaned  in  the 
same  manner,  but  black  checkered  covers  should  not 
be  treated  with  acid,  common  salt  being  substituted 
to  keep  the  color  from  running.  Embroidered  parasols 
are  also  washed  in  the  same  manner;  should  the  colors 
of  the  embroidery  run,  pass  the  parasol  through  warm 
soap  suds,  rinse  immediately,  dry  quickly  with  a  piece 
of  chamois,  and  cover  the  embroidered  parts  with 
plaster  of  Paris,  which  will  rapidly  absorb  the  remain- 
ing water  and  thus  prevent  the  colors  from  running. 
Finally  dry  the  parasol  quickly  in  the  sun  or  by  artificial 
heat. 

In  wet  cleaning  parasols  it  will  be  necessary  to  see 
whether  the  joints  are  lined  with  leather  or  colored 
silk ;  if  this  be  the  case  the  utmost  dispatch  in  treating 
the  parasols  is  imperative.  Light-colored  parasols 
should  be  cleaned  with  soap,  dark  ones  with  quillaia 
and  ammonia.  Those  that  are  lined  as  mentioned 
above  should  be  wrapped  in  a  clean  cloth,  white  paper 
inserted  under  the  ribs,  again  well  rubbed  and  quickly 
dried.  A  weak  gelatine  dressing  will  also  be  necessary. 
Parasols  with  wooden  handles  must  not  remain  long 
in  the  wash  liquor,  as  otherwise  the  wood  might  swell. 
The  parasols  should  also  be  frequently  turned  while 
drying. 

Dark  parasols  are  cleaned  with  benzine,  and  when 


196      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    oARMENT   DYER. 

the  latter  has  evaporated,  brushed  with  quillaia  bark 
decoction  and  dried  as  prcNnously  described.  Souring 
w\ih  dilute  acetic  add  is  ver>'  beneficial  to  the  colors, 
but  a  good  sponging  and  dressing  i^nth  gelatine  solu- 
tion mixed  with  alcohol  \snll  also  answer.  Parasols 
treated  in  this  manner  look  like  new. 

As  the  parasols  are  dried  while  raised,  ironing  will 
not  be  required.  Trimmings  of  ruffles,  plaits,  or  lace, 
must,  however,  be  ironed.  Ornaments,  such  as  beads, 
or  cords,  should  be  removed  before  cleaning  and  treated 
separately.  Rust  spots  are  removed  \\'ith  hot  saccharic 
acid  or  some  similar  stain-reraox-ing  agent. 

Very  fine  parasols  which  are  only  slightly  soiled 
should  only  be  cleaned  with  benzine,  and  when  the 
latter  has  evaporated,  brushed  with  distilled  water 
and  alcohol.  In  all  cases  when  parasols  are  being 
cleaned  the  cleaning  and  dr\-ing  processes  should  be 
expedited  as  much  as  possible.  If  too  much  time  is 
taken  there  is  danger  that  rust  from  the  frame  will 
collect  on  the  fabric. 

Dark  colored  silk  plush.  The  material  may  be  wet 
cleaned  by  brushing  \s-ith  clear  water  without  the  use 
of  any  soap.  After  cleaning,  the  luster  must  be  re- 
stored. This  may  be  done  by  sponging  the  garment 
^•ith  a  solution  made  in  the  following  proportions: 
1  pint  of  benzine,  i  pint  of  ether.  }4  pint  of  rectified 
alcohol.  Moisten  a  dark-colored  rag  and  go  over  the 
fabric,  rubbing  in  one  direction  only.  After  drying,  the 
garment  is  finished  by  steaminp. 

Georgette  crepe.  Ciean  in  lukewarm  water  to  which 
a  small  amount  of  soap  has  been  added.     If  the  water 


WET    CLEANING.  I97 

is  too  hot,  or  if  too  much  soap  is  used,  yellowing  will 
take  place  in  the  case  of  white  and  delicately  colored 
articles.  After  cleaning,  the  goods  should  be  soured 
in  a  weak  acetic  acid  bath. 

Khaki  kool.  This  is  a  fabric  made  of  wild  silk,  and 
will  clean  satisfactorily  when  handled  in  the  same 
manner  as  tussak  silk.  After  being  cleaned  and  rinsed 
the  material  should  be  soured  A\4th  acetic  acid. 

Rubberized  garments  such  as  raincoats  must  be  wet 
cleaned,  using  cold  water.  Some  soda  and  ammonia 
should  be  added  to  the  water,  or  soap  bark  used. 
After  rinsing,  the  garments  should  be  allowed  to  dry 
in  a  cool  place,  never  in  a  hot,  dry  room. 

Cotton  velvets,  corduroys,  etc.,  are  first  soaked  in  a  weak 
lukewarm  soda  bath  and  then  scoured  with  a  good  soap 
solution.  They  should  then  be  worked  in  a  soap  bath, 
and  rinsed  twice  in  warm  water.  If  the  material  is 
white  the  color  may  be  improved  by  bleaching  after 
cleaning.  After  bleaching  they  should  be  well  rinsed, 
extracted,  brushed  on  a  steam  board  and  dried.  Dark- 
colored  articles  of  this  material  are  best  cleaned  with 
soap  bark  or  with  cold  Tetrapole  solution. 

Palm  Beach  clothing.  The  original  Palm  Beach  cloth 
is  a  mixture  of  linen  and  wool,  but  as  it  is  now  made 
it  may  or  may  not  contain  any  wool  fiber;  in  fact,  th* 
very  large  majority  of  the  men's  and  women's  s'lits 
known  by  this  name  contain  little  if  any  wool,  cotton 
being  substituted  in  its  place.  The  fabric  is  rather 
heavily  sized  with  starch,  and  on  account  of  this  fact 
an  exclusive  dr\'-cleaning  process  will  not  produce 
satisfactorv  results,  as  benzine  does  not  dissolve  starch. 


198      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER 

Therefore,  in  the  large  majority  of  plants.  Palm  Beach 
clothing,  especially  that  containing  wool,  is  wet  cleaned 
or  is  cleaned  by  both  the  wet  and  the  dr>'  process,  the 
former  method  being  used  first.  When  the  fabric  is 
made  up  of  cotton  and  linen  and  contains  no  wool. 
the  wet-cleaning  process  is  sufficient. 

The  dry  cleaning  should  be  done  with  the  addition 
of  soap  and  ammonia  to  the  benzine.  Preferably  the 
ammonia  should  be  added  to  the  soap  before  the  latter 
is  placed  in  the  benzine  in  the  washing  machine. 
After  the  clothing  has  been  dr>-  cleaned  it  is  rinsed  and 
extracted,  after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  wet  cleaning. 
Palm  Beach  clothing  that  has  been  dry  cleaned  need 
not  be  dried  before  being  wet  cleaned. 

The  wet  cleaning  is  done  in  the  ordinar>'  manner 
with  the  addition  of  soap,  soda  or  ammonia  to  the  wash 
water.  The  cleaning  should  be  hurried  as  much  as 
is  consistent  with  good  work  in  order  that  as  much 
as  possible  of  the  original  sizing  will  remain  in  the 
goods.  An  excellent  method  of  cleaning  is  to  lay  the 
garments  on  a  wash  board  and  scrub  them  with  a 
brush  dipped  in  the  wash  water.  A  good  lathering 
soap  of  good  quality  should  be  used  and  the  water 
should  be  cold  when  the  cleaning  is  started.  As  the 
work  progresses  the  water  may  be  brought  to  a  hand 
heat.  Only  cold  water  to  which  salt  has  been  added 
should  be  used  for  rinsing.  Extracting  after  rinsing 
is  not  necessar>'.  If  possible,  the  cleaned  garments 
should  be  dried  in  an  airy,  sunny  place.  If  the  work 
is  properly  done  the  garments  will  not  shrink  nor  will 
they  lose  their  fresh,  new  appearance. 


WET    CLEANING.  199 

If  possible,  the  cleaner  should  refrain  from  cleaning 
Palm  Beach  garments  on  wet,  rainy  days  as  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  keep  them  from  becoming  sticky  when 
the  work  is  done  at  these  times.  If  the  work  must  be 
done,  the  garments  should  be  extracted  after  cleaning  and 
finished  while  they  are  still  damp  with  a  hot  hand-iron. 

Many  stains,  including  those  caused  by  rust  and 
ink,  are  very  difficult  to  remove  from  tan  and  ecru- 
colored  Palm  Beach  garments.  These  colors  are  pro- 
duced on  the  fabric  either  with  a  nitrate  of  iron  or 
with  sumac,  both  of  which  are  destroyed  by  mineral 
acids,  the  reagents  most  frequently  used  for  removing 
rust  and  ink  stains.  If  boiling  water,  or  a  hot  solution 
of  soap  and  ammonia  will  not  remove  the  stains,  no 
further  attempt  should  be  made  to  eradicate  them, 
otherwise  a  white  spot  is  very  sure  to  be  left. 

White  linen  garments  are  cleaned  in  the  same  manner 
as  those  of  Palm  Beach,  except  that  they  should  be 
bleached  after  the  cleaning  process  is  completed.  The 
bleaching  may  be  done  with  chloride  of  lime,  working 
them  for  thirty  minutes  in  the  cold  bleach  liquor. 
They  then  should  be  rinsed  and  placed  in  a  bath  con- 
taining 2  pounds  of  hypo  and  2  pounds  of  acetic  acid 
to  each  50  gallons  of  water.  Oxalic  or  sulphuric  acid 
may  be  used  in  place  of  the  hypo,  in  which  case  i 
pound  of  the  particular  acid  should  be  used  to  each 
50  gallons  of  water.  When  taken  from  this  last  bath 
the  goods  should  be  rinsed  and  blued. 

Wet  cleaning  carpets.  Very  dirty  carpets,  especially 
those  about  which  there  is  no  doubt  as  to  the  fastness 
of  their  colors,  are  wet  cleaned.    The  first  thing  to  be 


200      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER.    GARMENT    DYER. 

done  is  to  free  the  carpet  from  dust,  either  by  beating 
by  hand,  in  a  wheel,  or  by  a  beater.  A  dusting  in  a 
wheel,  followed  by  a  strong  vacuum,  has  been  found 
to  give  excellent  results.  This  ijreliminary  must  on 
no  account  be  neglected  if  the  carpet  is  to  look  any 
better  after  cleaning  than  before. 

It  is  ad\nsable  to  test  the  fastness  of  the  dyes  in 
the  carpets  to  be  wet  washed  with  a  cold  neutral  soap 
solution.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to  let  the  solution 
act  for  a  few  minutes  on  a  comer  of  the  carpet.  The 
solution  should  be  strong  enough  to  lather  well.  After 
the  solution  has  acted  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time, 
?inse  well,  moisten  with  dilute  vinegar,  and  dry  by 
pressure  between  cloths.  The  subsequent  operations 
must  be  regulated  according  to  the  appearance  now 
presented  by  th:;  comer  of  the  carpet. 

The  best  method  of  procedure  is  as  follows:  The 
carpet  having  been  spread  out  on  a  clean  floor,  wrong 
side  uppermost,  it  is  brushed  over  thoroughly  with 
plenty  of  clean  cold  water.  It  is  then  turned  over  and 
the  brushing  is  repeated.  A  squeegee  can  be  used 
to  get  rid  of  the  dirty  water,  and  the  floor  should  be 
of  concrete  and  provided  with  drains.  The  next  step 
is  to  brush  by  hand  or  machine  with  a  good  lathering 
neutral  soap,  using  more  and  more  soap,  until  the  froth 
stands  unchanged  upon  the  carpet.  Removing  the 
soap  with  a  squeegee  and  rinsing  with  plenty  of  clean 
water  comes  next.  whercu])oii  the  colors  are  brightened 
with  dilute  acetic  acid,  and  tiie  carpet  is  hung  up  todrain 
or  extracted  if  a  big  extractor  is  available.  If  ordinary 
soap  is  not  used  there  is  little  fear  of  the  colors  run- 


WET    CLEANING.  20I 

ning.  Either  ammonia  or  carbonate  of  soda  will 
accelerate  the  cleansing  process,  but  at  the  imminent 
risk  of  making  the  dyes  bleed,  and  so  spoiling  the 
appearance  of  the  carpet. 

Let  us  now  suppose  the  cleaner  has  to  deal  with 
a  carpet  which  has  suffered  by  a  previous  unskilled 
washing  in  which  common  soap  has  been  used.  The 
run  colors  cannot  be  put  back  into  their  proper  places, 
but  much  may  be  done  in  the  way  of  removing  dye 
which  has  reached  places  for  which  it  was  not  intended, 
and  it  often  happens  that  the  proper  places  still  retain 
enough  coloring  matter  to  enable  the  cleaned  carpet 
to  be  quite,  or  nearly,  as  well  colored  as  it  was  at  first. 
In  such  a  case  we  begin  by  soaking  the  carpet  in  plenty 
of  warm  water.  This  will  take  out  some,  perhaps 
nearly  all,  of  the  strayed  coloring  matter.  After  lifting, 
the  carpet  is  spread  out  on  the  floor  and  washed  as 
above  described,  but  with  a  perfectly  neutral  soap. 
Here  the  cleaner  has  an  opportunity  of  showing  his 
skill.  Not  only  must  the  soap  be  perfectly  neutral, 
but  not  one  ounce  of  it  more  than  is  absolutely  nec- 
essary may  be  used,  and  although  the  lye  must  prob- 
ably be  used  hot,  or  at  least  warm,  the  cooler  it  is  the 
better.  The  rinsing  is  done  in  very  weak  carbonate 
of  soda.  The  carpet  is  finally  scoured  and  extracted. 
In  the  latter  process  the  carpet  must  be  rolled  up  in 
a  clean  cloth,  so  that  should  there  be  subsequent 
bleeding  the  cloth  protects  the  rest  of  the  carpet. 
If  any  sizing  is  needed,  strong  glue  is  best.  Weak  glue 
will  again  provoke  the  main  danger  of  carpet  cleaning 
— the  running  of  the  colors. 


202      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOLRER,   GARMENT   DYER. 

A  machine  is  now  on  the  market  that  automatically 
dusts,  scrubs  and  rinses  a  rug.  the  three  operations 
requiring  but  about  four  minutes  for  a  9  x  1 2  rug. 
However,  the  machine  necessarily  is  an  expensive 
one  and  it  can  be  used  profitably  only  in  those  clean- 
ing plants  that  do  a  ver>'  large  volume  of  carpet- 
cleaning  work. 


IV. 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS. 

The  object  of  finishing  is  to  give  the  cleaned  or 
dyed  articles  the  required  feel,  luster,  shape,  and  a 
good  appearance  in  general.  This  operation  includes 
starching,  gumming,  steaming,  ironing,  pressing, 
stretching,  dyeing,  etc.  Everything  depends  on  a 
good  finish,  so  that  the  greatest  attention  has  to  be 
paid  to  the  operation.  No  matter  how  carefully  an 
article  may  have  been  cleaned,  it  presents  a  poor  ap- 
pearance if  the  required  finish  is  wanting,  while,  on  the 
other  hand,  any  defects  which  could  not  be  removed  are 
more  readily  overlooked  if  the  article  is  well  finished. 

The  cleaning  operations  leave  the  articles  with  more 
or  less  of  the  solvent  or  the  water,  and  this  has  to  be 
got  rid  of  by  extracting  or  wringing.  With  small  lots 
this  may  be  done  by  hand  or  with  the  familiar  wringer, 
which  may  be  applied  to  nearly  all  fabrics,  with  the 
exception  of  velvet,  velveteen,  plush,  and  all  fabrics 
having  a  pile.  The  main  thing  in  wringing  is  to  fold 
the  articles  the  right  way  so  that  when  the  wringer 
is  used  they  are  drawn  into  the  machine  in  the  direc- 
tion of  their  length. 

The  best  means  of  removing  the  water  from  wet 
(  203  ) 


204   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYFR. 

textile  fabrics  is,  however,  by  the  use  of  an  extractor. 
similar  to  that  described  under  dry  cleaning.  In  some 
cases,  when  the  goods  are  removed  from  the  extractor, 
they  will  be  found  sufficiently  dry  for  all  the  finishing 
operations. 

For  the  quick  drying  of  wet  cleaned  or  dr>'  cleaned 
articles  the  drving  tumbler  is  to  be  preferred.  When 
this  machine  is  used  there  is  a  constantly  changing 
wet  surface,  and  hence  quicker  drying,  which  is  very 
necessary  in  this  work. 

Garments  liable  to  shrinkage  are  best  dried  stretched 
on  frames,  .at  a  low  temperature,  or.  in  the  case  of 
some  ladies'  garments,  on  cones.  As  regards  linings, 
the  modem  practice  is  to  dampen  them  with  water 
when  the  rest  of  the  garment  is  dr\'.  and  then  use 
hot  steam  pipes.  This  is  the  best  way  of  preventing 
the  occurrence  of  shiny  places  in  the  lining.  The  work 
is  also  done  more  quickly,  so  that  vsnth  only  one  or 
two  sets  of  apparatus  a  large  quantity  of  goods  can 
be  quickly  handled  and  the  turnover  of  the  establish- 
ment increased.  For  sprinkling  dressings  on  linings, 
ordinary  sprayers  with  various  sized  orifices  answer 
well.  A  set  of  finer  and  coarser  sprayers  can  be  pro- 
vided at  a  ver>'  small  cost.  They  come  in  useful  also 
for  spotting,  damping  goods  for  ironing,  and  even  in 
some  cases  for  dyeing. 

For  shaping  and  smoothing,  steaming  tables  and 
steam  presses  are  necessar\-.  A  small  business  would 
require  a  steaming  table  with  a  steam  cavity  about  32 
inches  long  and  tapering  in  width  from  16  to  about 
6  inches.     This  should  be  su]i])lcmentcd  by  a  cylin- 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS.  205 

drical  steamer  about  8  inches  long  and  3^^'  inches  in 
diameter.  The  larger  steamer  should  stand  freely  on 
the  floor  or  on  a  cast-iron  sheet,  as  then  long  and 
wide  articles,  such  as  carpets,  can  be  conveniently 
steamed  on  it.  A  medium  business  requires  from 
four  to  six  steamers,  two  cylindrical,  one  large  and 
one  small,  the  others  of  plate  and  spherical  form. 
The  larger  cylindrical  steamer  should  be  about  2  ft. 
long  and  6  incnes  in  diameter.  The  steam  must  have 
a  pressure  of  at  least  three  atmospheres;  more  may 
be  wanted.  For  presstires  of  five  atmospheres  and 
upwards  and  for  large  steamers,  brass  or  cast  iron  is 
the  best  material,  but  for  lower  pressures  copper 
should  always  be  used  as  it  combines  good  conductivity 
with  small  radiating  power. 

Many  articles  of  wearing  apparel  are  finished  by 
hand-ironing  on  ordinary  ironing  tables  or  skirt  boards, 
covered  with  one  or  more  layers  of  gray  felt  and  a 
layer  of  white  muslin.  The  irons  used  may  be  heated 
on  a  stove,  by  the  internal  combustion  of  gas  or  de- 
natured alcohol,  or  by  electricity. 

Finishing  ivhite  and  colored  woolen  shawls,  fichus, 
etc.  Open-meshed  crocheted  and  woven  shawls  are 
passed  through  the  extractor,  and  while  still  moist 
are  stretched  to  their  original  size  and  shape  and 
allowed  to  dry  at  a  low  temperature.  Square  shawls 
may  be  loosely  stretched  in  a  frame. 

Long  shawls  and  all  closely  woven  fabrics  are 
steamed  and  partially  lightly  pressed,  but  generally 
cold.  Blankets  are  held  in  shape  while  dr^ang  and 
when  dry  are  carded  to  raise  the  nap. 


206      DRY   CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Finishing  uhite  and  colored  silk  shawls,  etc.  WTiite 
and  colored  articles  are  finished  with  dilute  starch  or 
pure  gelatine.  The  gelatine  liquor  must  not  redden 
blue  litmus  paper,  since  when  the  blue  (ultramarine) 
is  added,  the  latter  by  the  action  of  the  acid  turns 
gray,  and  a  pure  white  tone  cannot  be  obtained. 

Many  wet  cleaned  silk  articles  require  a  dressing; 
suitable  for  this  purpose  are:  Irish  moss,  gum  traga- 
canth  and  gelatine;  the  latter  two  for  light  arti:les. 
Irish  moss  is  best  for  the  black  and  dark-colored  silk. 
To  prevent  black  garments  from  becoming  hard  in 
dressing  and  to  give  them  a  soft  feel,  dressing  oil  is 
used.  The  prevnously  dried  articles  are  dravsTi  through 
one  of  the  above-mentioned  dressing  solutions,  and 
the  dressing  preparation  is  a])]3lied  by  means  of  a  soft 
brush  or  a  soft  sponge.  The  strength  of  the  dressing 
depends  on  whether  the  article  requires  a  hard  or 
soft  feel.  A  good  size  for  silk.^  may  be  made  as  follows: 
Water,  two  gallons;  bran,  one  ounce.  Stir  and  allow 
to  settle,  after  which  pour  off  the  clear  liquid  and 
boil  it.  WTien  it  becomes  thick  it  is  ready  for  use. 
It  should  be  used  cold.  Gelatine,  to  which  some  acetic 
acid  has  been  added,  applit-d  to  the  reverse  side,  is 
also  a  good  size. 

When  dressing  silk  it  may  happen  that  it  wrinkles, 
this  being  due  to  the  tension  of  the  thread  produced 
by  the  heat.  This  is  the  case  with  some  silk  fabrics, 
even  when  dressing  them  only  with  water.  Such 
\NTinkles  are  removed  by  pressing  with  a  medium- 
warm  iron  between  tissue  ])ai)er. 

Finishing  laces,  embroideries,  etc.    As  regards  finish- 


FINISHING   CLEANED   FABRICS.  207 

ing  such  articles,  much  attention  must  be  paid  to  their 
quaHty.  Coarse  common  lace  is  dressed  with  starch, 
sometimes  very  heavily,  and  with  a  mineral  filling  as 
well.  The  amount  of  stiffness  imparted  is  of  much 
importance  and  depends  a  great  deal  upon  the  use 
to  which  the  lace  is  to  be  put.  Stiffness  that  would 
be  out  of  place  in  a  lace  collar,  for  example,  may  be 
advisable  in  trimming. 

As  a  general  rule,  the  better  the  lace  the  more  lightly 
it  must  be  dressed.  Gelatine  is  used  for  some  laces 
and  must  be  applied  thin  and  not  too  hot.  With  the 
same  precautions  tragacanth  does  useful  service.  Great 
care  must  be  taken  that  all  dressing  solutions  are  color- 
less and  clear,  or  the  appearance  of  the  lace  is  sure  to 
suffer,  especially  that  of  dyed  lace.  Some  finishers  use 
a  combination  of  farina  and  a  gelatine  preparation 
from  wheat  gluten,  or  even  gluten  by  itself,  but  gluten 
putrefies  more  easily  than  animal  gelatines,  and  is 
more  likely  to  give  bad  color  and  odor. 

After  dressing,  all  laces  must  be  pinned  out  on  the 
cushion  or  stretched  on  a  steam  cylinder  when  half 
dry,  so  that  the  dr^dng  can  be  completed  without 
shrinkage  or  distortion.  Fine  laces  may  sometimes 
be  finished  by  ironing,  to  good  advantage. 

For  white  lace  the  best  grain  soap  has  lately  been 
recommended  as  a  dressing.  The  soap  must  be  of 
the  very  best,  and  is  used  in  lukewarm  solution  mixed 
with  just  a  little  ammonia.  To  prevent  any  yellow 
tinge,  the  goods  are  blued  in  lukewarm  water  contain- 
ing methyl  violet  and  a  trace  of  sulphuric  acid.  A 
really  first-class  soap  gives  excellent  results,  although- 


208      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER, 

the  dressing,  of  course,  is  not  fast  to  water.  It  also 
gives  a  beautifvilly  smooth  and  soft  handle. 

Plush  and  similar  articles  acquire  a  soft,  velvety 
feel  by  taking  them  through  a  soap  bath,  followed  by  a 
steaming  and  a  brushing. 

Black  silk  laces,  etc.,  acquire  a  good  luster  by  dress- 
ing with  decoction  of  flea  wort  seed,  or  they  are 
squeezed  well  between  the  hand  and  ironed  dry. 

With  laces,  cleaning  is  of  secondar>'  consideration, 
smoothing  and  elossing  them,  which  is  less  effected 
by  ironing  than  by  stretching  and  steaming,  being 
of  prime  importance.  A  steaming  apparatus  of  copper 
or  zinc  may,  according  to  requirement,  have  the  form 
of  a  plate  or  cylinder  and  should  be  covered  \Nnth  baize 
or  fine  muslin.  After  steaming  the  laces,  small  table 
covers,  crocheted  articles,  etc.,  are  smoothly  pinned 
to  a  cushion  and  dried. 

Dressing  for  white  entbroidcrics.  Treat  with  fat  grain 
soap  solution  heated  to  about  95"  F.,  to  which 
some  ammonia  has  been  added;  blue  in  lukewarm 
water  with  methyl  \nolet  and  a  little  sulphuric  acid. 
By  this  means  the  yellow  tone  and  dull  lustir  will 
disapp)ear. 

Finishing  curtains.  This  has  been  fully  referred 
to  under  "Washing  Curtains."  To  prevent  as  much 
as  possible  tulle  and  curtains  from  sticking  together, 
the  use  of  the  following  starch  preparation  may  be 
recommended:  Stir  into  60  quarts  of  cold  water  7  to 
8  quarts  of  clear  chloride  of  lime  solution  of  7"  B^., 
then  introduce,  stirring  constantly,  22  lbs.  of  potato 
flour,  and  bring  the  whole  to  the  boiling-point.     At 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS.  209 

from  140°  to  186°  F.  the  result  will  be  such  a  stiff 
mass  that  it  can  scarcely  be  stirred.  When  this  con- 
sistency has  been  reached,  shut  off  the  steam,  stir 
constantly,  and  in  about  5  to  10  minutes  the  mass 
will  be  found  to  become  thinner  in  consistency.  Now 
introduce  steam,  and  after  actual  boiling  for  about  5 
minutes,  the  mass  will  become  thin  as  water.  Con- 
tinue boiling  for  at  least  %  hour  for  the  volatilization 
of  the  chlorine  gas.  Then  add  one  to  two  quarts  of 
glycerine,  and  boil  again  for  five  minutes,  when  the 
dressing  can  be  used  without  the  addition  of  water. 

When  the  curtains  have  been  starched  they  are 
stretched  while  moist  in  a  curtain-stretcher. 

Plush  draperies  are  thoroughly  steamed  after  drying, 
and  the  pile  is  raised  by  brushing. 

Finishing  men's  garments.  Some  men's  garments, 
after  drying,  require  steaming  on  a  steam-board,  while 
others  do  not.     Men's  garments  that  have  been  dried 


Fig.   14. 

in  a  tumbler  seldom  if  ever  require  a  steaming,  nor 
do  those  that  are  to  be  finished  on  a  steam-pressing 
machine.  The  steam-board  consists  of  a  slightly 
arched  hollow  copper  cylinder,  the  top  of  which  is 
perforated  with  a  large  number  of  holes.     It  should 


2IO   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOLRER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

be  so  constructed  that  the  water  fonned  by  condensa- 
tion separates  at  the  lower  end,  so  that  only  dn.'  steam 
passes  out  through  the  holes.  The  construction  of  such 
steam-boards  will  be  readily  understood  from  the  ac- 
companying illustrations.  Fig.  14  shell's  a  large  steam- 
board,  about  64  inches  long.    It  consists  of  a  front  and 


Fig.   15. 

back  part  which  can  be  used  independently  of  each 
other.  The  shape  is  such  that  pantaloons  may  be 
drav\'n  over  the  front  portion.  The  arrangement  for 
freeing  the  steam  from  water  is  such  that  it  is  impos- 
sible for  moisture  to  pass  into  the  goods.  After  steam- 
ing, the  garments  are  pressed. 

The  steam-board  shown  in  Fig.  1 5  serves  for  steam- 
ing the  sleeves  of  men's  coats.     Fig.   16  is  a  steam- 


Fig.   16. 

board  for  pantaloons,  and  Fig.  17  is  a  steam-board  for 
coats. 

Another  form  in  which  these  steamers  are  made  is 
that  of  a  table  with  a  rounded  top,  as  shown  in  Fig. 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS. 


211 


1 8.  The  table  is  mounted  upon  a  strong  wooden 
frame,  and  serves  as  a  substitute  for  the  ironing 
cushion  mentioned  later  on  in  pressing  men's  garments. 


Fh 


The  steam  is  conveyed  into  the  steamers  by  pipes, 
and  there  are  also  exit  pipes  for  condensed  steam 
and   surplus   steam.      In   order  that   dry  steam  may 


Fig.   1 8. 


always  be  available  and  no  moisture  appear  upon 
the  steamer,  the  pipe  conveying  the  steam  into  the 
steamer  should  run  the  entire  length  of  the  latter, 
the  holes  should  lie  downward,  and  the  bottom  of  the 
steamer  be  so  shaped  that  the  center  is  the  deepest 
part.     By  the  holes  lying  downward  the  water  forced 


212   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

along  wnth  the  steam  is  prevented  from  being  carried 
upward  by  the  steam,  and  by  the  convex  shajx;  of 
the  bottom,  the  steam  condensed  in  the  steam  box  is 
impelled  downward.  It  is  also  advisable  to  place  a " 
finely  perforated  cover  of  coi)per  over  the  steam- 
pipe,  and  to  see  that  the  steam  produced  by  the  boiler 
is  not  too  wet. 

For  pressing  men's  garments  by  hand  Vollbrecht  gives 
the  following  directions :  Provide  a  solid  cushion  about 
3  feet  long,  16  to  24  inches  wide  and  6  to  8  inches 
deep.  This  cushion  should  be  shaped  so  that  it  is 
rounded  off  on  one  side  similar  to  a  steam-board  and 
be  covered  with  firm  linen  free  from  dressing.  For 
pressing  serves  a  block  of  iron  with  a  detachable  handle, 
and  this  should  be  thoroughly  heated  without  being 
red-hot.  For  brushing  off  the  steam  use  a  close, 
short-bristled  brush,  like  a  large  clothes  brush,  and 
in  addition  have  a  strong  clean  piece  of  linen  free  from 
dressing. 

Pressing  is  executed  as  follows:  The  portion  of 
the  garment  to  be  pressed  is  laid  smoothly  upon  the 
cushion.  Moisten  the  clean  linen  cloth  with  water, 
and  after  squeezing  it  out.  lay  it  on  the  article  and 
run  the  hot  iron  over  it  until  it  appears  dn»'.  Then 
remove  the  cloth  quickly  and  beat  the  steamed  part 
with  the  brush  till  the  steam  has  disappeared.  Finally 
stretch  and  brush  the  article. 

When  pressing  a  man's  coat.  ])ress  the  sleeves  first, 
then  the  breast  or  front  i)ortions.  Next  come  the 
la])els  and  collar,  pressing  tlicm  shar])ly  under  the 
linen  cloth  doubled.     Finalh*  j^rcss  the  back  portions 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS.  213 

of  the  skirt.  The  lining  is  then  pressed,  without, 
however,  using  the  damp  Hnen  cloth,  which  finishes 
the  coat. 

Pantaloons  are  laid  so  that  the  crease  comes  closely 
back  of  the  side  seam.  Press  the  front  side  up  to  the 
crotch,  then  place  them  so  that  the  side  seam  lies 
upon  the  inner  seam;  press  once  more,  but  only  to 
near  the  knee,  so  that  there  is  a  slight  crease  back 
which  contributes  towards  a  good  set.  The  band, 
lining,  pockets  and  the  upper  inner  portion  to  the  crotch 
are  then  pressed  dry,  as  well  as  the  facing,  which 
finishes  the  operation. 

When  pressing  waistcoats,  the  two  front  portions 
of  the  fabric  and  the  collar  are  pressed  wet,  and  the 
inside  portions  of  the  front  parts  dry,  as  well  as  the 
back,  the  latter  being  pressed  on  the  outer  right  side. 

In  establishments  where  men's  suits  in  large  quan- 
tities have  to  be  pressed,  a  bust-finishing  machine 
and  a  flat-pressing  machine  are  sometimes  used;  the 
former  is  employed  for  shaping  and  finishing  the  bust, 
shoulders,  and  collars  of  men's  coats,  and  the  latter 
for  finishing  the  sleeves  and  flat  portions  "of  coats  and 
pantaloons. 

Heavy  irons  to  which  foot-pressure  can  be  applied 
are  sometimes  used  for  pressing  men's  clothes.  This 
machine  is  fitted  with  a  heavy  tailor's  iron,  the  latter 
being  heated  either  by  steam  or  gas. 

The  slow  and  tedious  process  of  pressing  clothes  by 
hand  is,  however,  connected  with  many  disadvantages. 
The  extremely  high  temperature — approximately  900° 
F. — at  which  it  is  necessary  to  operate  the  hand-iron 


214      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

used  in  connection  with  a  damp  pressing  or  sponging 
cloth,  in  ordei  to  simultaneously  j^ress  and  steam  the 
garment,  has  a  damaging  effect  ujx)n  the  cloth.  It 
robs  the  cloth  of  its  oils,  frequently  bakes  it  to  a  crisp, 
destroys  elasticity,  softness,  life  r.nd  color,  changes  the 
character  of  the  fabric,  leaving  it  harsh  and  brittle, 
instead  of  soft  and  pliable. 
.  Still  another  problem  wnth  which  many  have  to 
contend  is  the  lack  of  uniformity  of  finish,  it  being 
almost  impossible  to  give  to  the  entire  garment  an 
equal  amount  of  pressure,  heat  and  moisture.  Scorch- 
ing and  gloss  due  to  overheated  hand-irons,  careless, 
indiflerent  and  inexperienced  help,  are  of  frequent 
occurrence  and  a  source  of  annoyance  and  of  con- 
siderable expense. 

Machines  for  pressing  clothes  by  steam  are  for 
the  above-mentioned  reasons  rapidly  superseding  the 
goose  or  hand-iron.  The  machines  made  by  the 
United  States  HofTman  Company  of  Syracuse,  N.  Y., 
have  not  only  overcome  the  many  deficiencies  of  the 
hand-iron,  but  also  have  surjiassed  it  in  the  quality 
of  the  work  produced  and  the  volimie  of  output.  They 
accomplish  three  times  the  work,  and  eliminate  any 
possibility  of  damage  to  the  cloth,  it  being  by  this 
method  impossible  to  scorch  a  garment.  The  steam 
improves  the  general  condition  of  the  cloth  because 
it  docs  the  work  at  the  right  temperature — 300°  F. 
It  raises  the  nap,  prevents  gloss,  brings  out  the  color, 
imparts  new  life,  luster  and  beauty  to  the  fabric,  and 
gives  it  that  flexible,  soft  feel  heretofore  so  difficult  to 
obtain.    By  injecting  steam  into  the  cloth,  the  garment 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS.  215 

is  readily  shaped,  instantly  dried  and  set.  Besides,  the 
process  is  a  sanitary  one.  as  all  steam-pressed  garments 
are  sterilized  garments,  the  advantage  of  which  is 
too  obvious  to  require  further  comment. 

Fig.   19  shows  model  "A  A"  of  the  pressing  ma- 
chines manufactured  by  the  United  States  Hoffman 


Pig.  19. 

Co.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  popular  press  of  the  entire 
line  by  reason  of  its  general  adaptability  to  most 
classes  of  work.  It  requires  a  space  of  about  4  feet 
square.  The  frame  is  made  extra  heavy  at  all  pressure 
points,  so  as  to  provide  against  undue  strain  at  the 
hands  of  thoughtless  operators.  All  piping  is  of  wrought 
iron,  all  steam  fittings  of  bronze.  The  boiler  is  of 
special  construction,  after  the  manufacturers'  own 
specifications.  It  is  provided  with  water  gauge, 
steam  gauge,  pop  valve  regulated  to  hold  any  steam 
pressure  desired,  and  pump  for  filling.    It  is  guaranteed 


2l6   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

to  Stand  an  hydraulic  pressure  of  220  pounds,  and  in 
many  instances  tests  of  more  than  500  pounds  have 
been  made.  The  working  pressure,  however,  is  very 
low,  being  only  60  pounds,  and  this  is  quickly  generated 
and  easily  maintained,  the  quantity  of  gas  used  for 
the  purpose  being  about  the  same  as  ordinarily  used 
for  heating  irons. 

In  cases  where  plants  have  their  own  steam  equip>- 
ment.  the  machine  is  provided  with  a  separator  in 
place  of  the  boiler  for  direct  connection.  Steam  is 
piped  from  the  boiler  or  separator  on  the  machine 
to  a  steam  chamber  forming  part  of  the  head.  The 
bottom  of  the  head  proper  is  fitted  with  a  perforated 
plate  through  which  the  steam  is  diffused  and  spread 
onto  the  garment.  This  steam  also  serves  to  keep 
the  head  heated  to  the  required  temperature.  The 
head  is  perfectly  balanced,  and  can  be  easily  raised 
and  lowered.  Beneath  the  head  is  the  steam-heated 
stationary  buck  corresp)onding  to  an  ironing-board. 
The  garment  is  heated  from  top  to  bottom,  or,  in 
other  words,  on  both  sides.  The  head  and  buck  are 
linen-covered  and  the  latter  is  also  properly  padded. 

After  having  obtained  a  pressure  of  60  pounds,  the 
machine  is  ready  for  work.  The  operation  is  extremely 
simple.  The  garment  is  placed  on  the  buck,  the  head 
brought  down  into  position  upon  it,  and  steam  is 
passed  onto  the  cloth  by  slightly  opening  the  valve 
on  top  of  the  head.  The  head  is  held  down  upon  the 
garment,  at  any  desired  pressure,  and  this  pressure 
is  maintained  without  effort  by  means  of  a  powerful 
lever.     Pressure  is  then  released  from  the  lever,  and 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS.  21/ 

the  head  returns  to  its  original  elevated  position. 
This  operation  requires  less  time  than  it  takes  to  tell 
about  it,  and  is  of  course  repeated  until  the  entire 
garment  is  finished.  It  is  not  necessary  to  hang  the 
garment  up  for  drying,  as  the  hot  dry  steam  accom- 
plishes this  during  the  course  of  pressing. 

Finishing  ladies'  garments.  A  good  finish  of  these 
articles,  the  correct  choice  of  the  dressing  medium, 
and  smoothing  are  of  the  utmost  importance.  Chem- 
ically cleaned  articles  give  the  least  trouble;  thinner 
articles  need  only  be  brushed  while  ironing  with 
gelatine  water.  All  other  articles  require  no  further 
dressing,  and  by  a  medium  hot  flat-iron  the  shape  can 
be  readily  restored. 

Starch  together  with  some  gelatine  is  the  best 
dressing  for  light-colored  linen,  cotton,  half  wool  and 
thin  wool  fabrics.  For  dark  fabrics,  glue  and  Irish 
moss  are  used,  and  for  silk,  gum  tragacanth  or  gela- 
tine. The  dressing  should  be  employed  in  as  finely 
divided  a  state  as  possible,  which  is  effected  by  thorough 
soaking,  long  boiling,  and  straining. 

For  cotton  goods  a  good  brand  of  wheat  starch  may 
be  used,  which  for  light-colored  and  white  articles  is 
slightly  blued  with  ultramarine.  For  dark  blue,  dark 
red  and  black  cottons,  as  well  as  for  wool  and  half- 
wool  fabrics  a  mixture  of  glue  and  gelatine  is  employed 
as  dressing.  Bad-smelling  glue  should  not  be  used, 
as  the  odor  cannot  be  removed  from  the  garments. 

Thoroughly  boiled  rice  starch  is  an  excellent  dress- 
ing for  men's  and  ladies'  siimmer  garments  which 
have    been    wet    cleaned.      The    articles    are    passed 


2l8      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

through  the  starch  bath  at  a  temperature  not  above 
86°  F.  Pre\nous  extracting  is  absolutely  necessary*, 
so  that  the  dressing  can  be  suitably  thickened  or 
thinned  in  accordance  \Nnth  the  fabrics.  WTien  the 
dressing  has  been  applied  the  articles  are  extracted. 
then  stretched,  dried,  and  ironed  upon  the  wrong  side 
under  a  wet  linen  cloth.  The  work  is  more  easily 
effected  by  means  of  a  steam-table.  Dry  cleaned 
garments  seldom  require  dressing,  and.  if  so.  all  that 


Fig.  20. 


is  neccssan,'  is  to  brush  the  lining  with  a  moist  sponge, 
and  iron  immediately. 

All  starched  articles  are  ironed  in  an  air-dr>'  state, 
though  very  hard  fabrics  may  have  to  be  prcNnously 
sprinkled. 

Ladies'  garments  which  have  been  ripped,  as  well 
as  lighter  articles  of  silk,  half-silk,  wool,  half-wool, 
or  cotton,  after  ha\Tng  been  dressed  with  a  suitable 
medium,  are  dried  on  a  dr>4ng  cylinder  or  dr>-ing 
table,  the  construction  of  which  is  readily  seen  from 
the  illustrations.  Fig.  20  showing  a  drjnng  cylinder 
and  Fig.  21  a  dr^nng  table. 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABBICS. 


219 


Fig.  22  shows  steam-heated  puff  irons.  They  are 
tubular  devices  of  various  shapes  and  sizes,  and  are 
heated    by    steam.     They    are    extremely    simple    in 


Fig.  21. 


use,  the  articles  being  held  tightly  by  the  hand  on 
the  heated  surface  for  a  few  seconds.  They  are  em- 
ployed for  finishing  the  shoulders  of  coats,  the  sleeves 


Fig.  22. 

of  blouses,  etc.,  the  fulness  or  irregularly  shaped  sur- 
face of  any  article  which  cannot  be  ironed  satisfactorily, 
small  frills  of  ribbons,  lace,  etc.,  trimmings  on  babies' 


220   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

bonnets,  in  fact  a  finish  can  be  easily  and  quickly 
given  to  many  articles  of  ladies'  dresses  which  is  not 
readily  obtainable  in  other  ways.  They  require  but 
ver>'  little  space.  The  operator  need  not  carry  the 
work  around  the  table.  For  use,  it  is  only  necessary 
to  draw  down  the  iron  desired. 

Dressing  for  garment  dyers  and  larindrwtcn.  For 
light  woolens  which  have  to  retain  to  the  full  the 
characteristic  feel  of  the  material,  pure  gristle  glue 
is  the  best  dressing.  Choose  the  glue  as  nearly  free 
from  color  and  odor  as  possible.  The  glue  must  be 
swelled  in  cold  water,  and  then  boiled  before  use. 
Add  a  little  borax  to  preser\'e  it.  and  also  a  little 
acetic  acid  and  glycerine.  The  object  of  the  acid  is 
to  presers'e  the  glue  solution.  The  thinner  the  wool, 
the  stronger  the  dressing  must  be  made.  The  solu- 
tion is  used  warm,  but  not  hot.  For  wool-silk,  and 
all  women's  garments,  the  above  dressing  is  about 
the  best  that  can  be  had.  In  finishing  half-woolens, 
glue  is  used  in  conjunction  with  clear-boiled  starch 
and  a  little  acetic  acid.  The  finish  is  used  cold,  or 
at  most  lukewarm.  If  hot,  it  will  strip  too  much  of 
the  dye  from  the  cotton.  The  garments  must  be 
uniformly  extracted  after  dressing,  and  hung  up  to 
dry  ^\^thout  any  creases.  The  drying  must  be  at  a 
moderate  temjxjrature,  or  the  glue  will  show.  Generally 
the  cheaper  fabrics  used  for  men's  clothing  must  be 
sized.  A  good  dressing  for  these  garments  may  be 
made  from  one  gallon  of  warm  water,  one  gallon  of 
moss  mucilage  and  one  pound  of  starch. 

In  finishing  pure  silk  use  simply  a  solution  of  col- 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS.  221 

orless  gelatine,  with  the  usual  addition  of  acetic  acid. 
The  dressing  is  applied  warm  with  a  sponge  or  a  very 
soft  brush,  and  the  drying  is  done  at  a  very  low  heat. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  apply  the  dressing  evenly  over 
the  fabric.  For  black  silk  it  is  a  good  plan  to  add  a 
decoction  of  curled  mint  as  well  as  acetic  acid  to  the 
latter.     Half-silk  is  finished  in  the  same  manner. 

There  are  many  dressings  for  cotton  and  linen,  but 
only  a  few  of  them  are  available  on  fabrics  which 
have  been  made  up  into  garments.  Nothing  is  better 
than  good  wheat  starch.  A  little  glue  can  be  added 
to  it  for  colored  cottons,  and  a  little  wax  improves 
the  subsequent  feel. 

Gloss  starch,  i.  Boil  9  lbs.  pulverized  borax,  3  lbs. 
stearine  and  3  lbs.  white  wax  in  a  proportionate  quan- 
tity of  soda  lye  of  20°  Be.  to  a  liquid  mass  of  uniform 
consistency,  and  evaporate  to  dryness.  Mix  the  product 
thus  obtained  in  the  proportion  of  i  :io  with  rice  starch. 
The  gloss  starch  thus  obtained  imparts  to  clothes 
starched  with  it  a  beautiful  gloss  and  the  stiffness  of 
a  board. 

2.  Rice  starch,  100  parts  by  weight;  pulverized 
borax,  5;  pulverized  boric  acid,  2,6.  Rub  all  through 
a  hair  sieve. 

3.  Pulverized  starch,  i  lb.;  pulverized  borax,  3  ozs.; 
common  salt,  3^  oz.;  white  gum-arabic,  g}4  ozs. 

4.  Elastic  gloss  starch.  Mix  100  parts  by  weight 
of  wheat  starch  with  0.7  to  0.8  part  by  weight  of 
stearine. 

5.  Cream  gloss.  Lard,  7  lbs.;  ammonia  of  0.88 
specific    gravity,    i    lb.;    bleached    beeswax,    ^2    lb.; 


222       DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

glycerine  of  1.26  specific  gra\nty,  Yt  lb.;  and  a  few 
drops  of  oil  of  citronella.  Melt  the  lard  and  the 
wax,  stirring  constantly  until  the  coohng  mass  ac- 
quires a  salve-like  consistency;  then  add  the  glycerine, 
oil  of  citronella,  and  ammonia,  previously  stirred 
together,  and  mix  the  whole  thoroughly.  Of  this 
cream  gloss  add  a  small  quantity  to  the  starch. 

Chiffofis  often  require  a  dressing,  but  on  account 
of  the  delicate  nature  of  the  material  there  is  a  tendency 
on  the  part  of  cleaners  to  rather  overdo  the  matter, 
and  as  a  result  the  garment  does  not  present  an  ap- 
pearance as  good  as  would  have  been  the  case  had  no 
sizing  been  used.  Any  size  that  is  used  for  chiffon 
must  necessarily  be  very  thin  as  well  as  colorless, 
otherwise  its  presence  on  the  material  will  be  too 
conspicuous.  The  foUovs-ing  mixture  ser\'es  the  need 
ver>'  well  and  is  used  by  many  cleaners  when  sizing 
chiffon:  Water,  150  parts;  starch.  2  parts;  white  wax. 
yi  part;  stearic  acid,  ^4  part;  castile  soap,  1  part;  sal 
soda,  yi  part.  All  of  the  ingredients,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  starch,  are  mixed  together  and  are  dis- 
solved in  a  small  amount  of  water,  after  which  the 
starch  and  the  remainder  of  the  water  are  added  and 
the  mixture  boiled. 

Water-proofing  fabrics,  i.  Boil  }4  lb.  white  castile 
soap  in  12  quarts  of  water,  and,  on  the  other  hand, 
dissolve  6  ozs.  of  alum  in  12  quarts  of  water.  Heat 
both  solutions  separately  to  about  194°  F.  Then  pass 
the  fabric  first  through  the  soap  solution,  then  through 
the  alum  solution,  and  finally  dry  in  the  air. 

2.  For  making  cloth,  woolen,  felt  and  cotton  fabrics 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS.  223 

impervious  to  water,  the  following  mixture  may  also 
be  used:  Borax,  5  ozs.;  fish-glue,  2  lbs.;  sago,  i  oz.; 
salep,  I  oz.;  stearine,  5  ozs.,  and  water,  10  quarts. 

3.  Another  Jormula  for  the  same  purpose  is  as  fol- 
lows: Dissolve  5  ozs.  of  alum  in  3  quarts  of  water  of 
176°  F.  On  the  other  hand,  dissolve  22^  ozs.  of 
lead  acetate  in  i}4  quarts  of  water  of  158°  F.  Mix 
the  two  solutions,  allow  to  settle,  and  decant  the 
clear  liquor.  Place  the  fabric  in  the 'liquor  at  the 
ordinary  temperature  for  24  hours,  and  then  dr\^ 
The  fabric  acquires  no  odor  and  retains  its  soft- 
ness. 

4.  According  to  another  process  fabrics  of  all  kinds 
are  rendered  waterproof  as  follows:  Dissolve  i  part 
of  alum  and  i  part  of  lead  acetate  in  hot  water,  stir, 
and  allow  to  stand  till  the  fluid  is  clear,  and  then  add 
a  few  drops  of  isinglass  solution.  The  fabric  is  mois- 
tened and  handled  in  the  bath  and  then  dried,  if 
possible  stretched  in  a  frame,  and  pressed.  For  50 
quarts  of  water  there  will  be  required  about  i  lb.  of 
alimi,  I  lb.  of  lead  acetate,  and  10  drops  of  isinglass 
solution.    The  bath  is  used  warm. 

5.  For  water-proofing  coarse  wool-stuffs,  place  the 
fabric  for  one  hour  in  a  cold  2  to  3  per  cent,  solution 
of  aluminium  sulphate,  then  extract  and  dr}^  at  a 
quite  warm  temperature.  Then  pass  for  15  to  20 
minutes  through  a  cold  soap  solution  (^  oz.  soap  to  i 
gallon  water),  extract  and  dry  hot.  If  the  fabric 
should  show  a  white  efflorescence  too  much  aluminium 
sulphate  has  been  used,  and  it  has  to  be  washed  in 
cold  water.     If  the  fabric  is  treated  twice,  the  first 


224      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

aluminium  suljjhate  solution  may  be  used  without 
further  addition,  but  the  soap  solution  must  l)e  fresh. 
It  is  advisable  to  neutralize  the  aluminium  sulphate 
solution  with  a  little  soda  till  it  shows  a  remaining 
turbidity.  Such  solution  of  basic  alimiinivun  suli)hate 
is  almost  equal  in  its  effect  to  aluminium  acetate,  and 
docs  not  impart  a  rancid,  acid  odor  to  the  fabric. 

A  waterproof  finish  is  also  obtained  by  placing  the 
articles  which  have  been  starched  with  starch  to  which 
glue  has  been  added,  for  a  few  hours  in  a  20  per  cent, 
formaldehyde  liquor. 

Fire-proofing  fabrics.  Borax  and  alum  were  the  first 
substances  noted  to  have  fire-proofing  qualities,  and 
although  these  are  easily  washed  out  of  the  goods, 
they  are  in  common  use  for  fire-proofing  light  fabrics. 
For  coarse  goods,  theater  scenery',  etc.,  alum,  borax, 
silicate  of  soda,  calcium  chloride  and  magnesiimi 
chloride  are  all  used,  the  salt  selected  being  dissolved 
and  the  solution  added  to  the  ordinary  dressing. 
Tungstate  of  soda  is  an  excellent  fire-proofing  material, 
and  it  has  the  peculiar  quality  of  ha\'ing  an  affinity 
for  the  fiber,  whereby  it  becomes  difficult  to  wash  out 
after  the  fabric  has  been  steeped  in  a  solution  of  it. 
Unfortunately,  it  has  the  disadvantage  of  expense, 
and  in  modem  fire-jjroofing  i)rocesses  the  discoven,', 
that  salts  of  ammonia  were  more,  efficacious  and  much 
cheaper  has  led  to  the  use  of  tungstate  of  soda  being 
almost  entirely  abandoned. 

Below  some  formulas  for  fire-proofing  solutions  are 
given: 

1.  Ammonium  sulphate,  i  lb.  dissolved  in  soft  water, 


FINISHING    CLEANED    FABRICS.  225 

8  lbs.    This  solution  is  very  suitable  for  impregnating 
thin  cotton  or  linen  tissues,  laces,  etc. 

2.  Finely  pulverize  and  mix  ammonium  chloride, 
40  ozs.;  borax,  10  ozs.;  common  salt,  5  ozs.  For  use 
dissolve  the  mixture  in  16  times  the  quantity  of  hot 
water. 

3.  Ammonitmi  sulphate,  4  lbs.;  boric  acid,  i.^  lbs.; 
borax,  i  lb.  Mix  the  ingredients  in  a  dry  state,  and 
for  use  dissolve  the  mixture  in  the  proportion  of  8 
to  100  in  boiling  water. 

4.  Borax,  15  lbs.;  epsom  salt,  11  lbs.;  water,  10 
gallons. 

5.  Alum,  5  lbs.;  ammonium  phosphate,  5  lbs.;  water, 
ID  gallons. 

6.  Dissolve  in  soap  water,  alum,  6  parts;  borax,  2; 
tungstate  of  soda,  i,  and  dextrine,  i. 

Fire-proofing  starch.  A  more  simple  method  of 
impregnating  fabrics  that  are  more  or  less  to  be 
starched,  consists  in  incorporating  a  salt  that  possesses 
fire-proofing  qualities  with  the  starch.  The  salt  is 
dissolved  by  mixing  it  with  the  water  required  for 
the  starch,  and  on  steeping  the  fabric  in  the  starch 
passes  into  the  fibers,  fiUing  the  latter.  The  articles 
are  then  ironed  in  the  usual  manner. 

1 .  Sulphate  of  ammonia,  80  lbs. ;  ammoniimi  chloride, 
25  lbs.;  boric  acid,  30  lbs.;  borax,  1^)4  lbs.;  starch,  20 
lbs.;  water,  100  gallons. 

2.  Sulphate  of  ammonia,  25  lbs.;  carbonate  of  am- 
monia, 30  lbs.;  boric  acid,  30  lbs.;  borax,  20  lbs.; 
starch,  20  lbs.;  water,  100  gallons. 

Martin's  fire-proof  dressing.     Dissolve  in  100  parts 


226      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER, 

of  water,  ammonium  sulphate.  8  parts;  ammonium 
carbonate,  2}^  parts;  boric  acid,  3;  pure  borax,  2; 
starch,  2;  dextrine.  '4. 

The  fabric  is  soaked  in  the  solution  of  86°  F.,  then 
lightly  WTung  out,  and  dried.  The  quantity  of  starch 
as  well  as  of  dextrine  may  be  changed  as  desired, 
according  to  whether  the  articles  are  to  be  made  more 
or  less  stiff. 

Apyrine  starch.  Ammonium  sulphate,  8  ozs. ;  mag- 
nesium sulphate.  8  ozs.;  wheat  starch,  7^  lbs. 


V. 

CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FURS,    SKIN    RUGS    AND    MATS. 

Cleaning.  Fur  cleaning  is  an  important  branch 
of  dn,^  cleaning,  and  also  one  of  the  most  risky,  for 
the  articles  are  sometimes  of  great  value  and  cannot 
be  treated  like  ordinary-  textile  fabrics. 

The  furs  should  first  be  carefully  examined  in 
order  to  ascertain  whether  they  are  torn,  damaged  by 
moths,  or  whether  any  matches  have  gotten  into 
them,  the  latter  being  a  serious  matter  where  the 
cleaning  is  to  be  done  with  benzine.  As  much  dust 
as  possible  should  also  be  removed  by  running  them 
in  a  tumbler  at  a  moderate  heat.  No  other  articles  of 
wearing  apparel  should  be  in  the  tiimbler  when  furs 
are  in  it.  A  further  point  to  be  considered  is  the 
color,  and  it  depends  entirely  upon  the  dye  which 
has  been  used  whether  the  fur  can  be  cleaned  with 
soap  and  water  or  must  be  treated  with  benzine.  The 
skin  part  must  also  be  examined  with  the  view  of 
ascertaining  whether  it  will  stand  washing. 

Polar  bear,  tiger,  leopard,  lion,  seal,  rabbit,  squirrel, 

dog,  sheep  and  goat  skins  should  be  chemically  cleaned, 

that  is,  washed  in  benzine,  unless  they  are  too  badly 

soiled.    White  skins  are  best  cleaned  with  benzine  and 

(  227  ) 


228      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

benzine  soap,  being  brushed  by  hand.  They  should 
then  be  put  into  the  extractor  for  about  ten  minutes. 
After  this  they  should  be  removed,  rinsed  in  fresh, 
clear  benzine,  and  well  shaken.  Next  place  them  upon 
a  table  and  dr>'  by  rubbing  in  potato  meal  imtil  the 
hairs  are  no  longer  damp  and  clammy.  After  allowing 
some  time  for  the  fumes  of  benzine  to  evaporate, 
the  furs  should  be  well  beaten  and  the  hairs  combed 
out.  Should  the  animal's  head  be  still  attached  to 
the  rug  it  cannot  of  course  be  washed  in  the  machine, 
but  must  be  cleaned  by  hand  with  a  brush.  Thorough 
rinsing  is  imperative.  Furs  never  should  be  run  in  the 
washer  with  garments,  as  more  or  less  hair  will  come 
out,  which,  if  it  gets  on  garments,  is  ven,-  difficult  to 
remove.  All  gasoline  in  which  furs  have  been  cleaned 
should  be  strained  before  draining  it  back  to  the  storage 
tank.  After  the  skins  have  been  well  evaporated, 
they  should  be  beaten  and  combed.  Skins  that  have 
cotton  interlining  should  be  ripped  apart,  before  clean- 
ing, as  the  cotton  soaks  up  much  benzine  and  thereby 
wastes  expensive  material,  and  because  it  likewise 
harbors  dust  and  often  vermin.  A  thorough  beating 
and  a  good  washing  will  dean  the  cotton,  which  must 
of  course  be  sewed  into  the  skin  after  it  has  been 
cleaned.  Steam  never  should  be  allowed  to  come 
in  contact  xs-ith  the  furs,  however,  for  damage  is  very 
sure  to  result. 

Furs  and  skins  that  are  \er)-  dirty  must  be  wet 
cleaned,  and  should  also  be  beaten,  repaired,  and 
have  the  lining  ripped  off,  the  latter  to  be  cleaned  and 
then  sewed  on  again. 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING.  229 

Before  commencing  to  wet  clean  furs  the  flesh  side 
should  be  well  smeared  with  oil  or  grease  to  prevent 
the  leather  from  becoming  hard  and  breakable  under 
the  action  of  the  water.  Practically  any  grease  may 
be  used  for  this  purpose,  the  cheapest  machine  oil  or 
cup  grease  serving  the  needs  very  well.  The  grease 
should  be  well  worked  into  the  pores  of  the  leather 
and  if  possible  the  furs  should  be  allowed  to  stand  for 
a  few  hours  after  greasing  and  before  commencing 
the  cleaning  process. 

The  furs  then  should  be  folded  in  the  middle  with 
the  flesh  side  on  the  inside  and  kept  in  this  position 
until  the  cleaning  is  finished,  to  prevent  the  grease 
from  spreading  over  the  hairs.  The  washing  is  done 
in  a  lukewarm  bath,  using  a  neutral  soap  and  working 
carefully  to  prevent  felting.  Cleaning  by  hand  is 
preferred  to  running  in  a  machine.  When  clean  the 
furs  should  be  given  two  or  more  warm  rinses,  lightly 
extracted  and  dried  in  a  moderately  warm  dry-room. 
When  the  furs  are  dry  they  must  be  dry  cleaned  to 
remove  the  grease.  This  is  best  done  by  working  the 
furs  in  a  pan  of  gasoline  and  squeezing  out  the  surplus 
solvent.  When  the  grease  is  removed  the  furs  should 
be  lightly  extracted  and  finished  by  beating  and  comb- 
ing. The  leather  should  be  soft  and  pliable  after  this 
treatment,  but  if  there  is  any  tendency  towards  hard- 
ness the  leather  should  be  lightly  oiled,  the  surplus 
being  removed  by  rubbing  with  a  cotton  cloth  or  with 
bran. 

White  furs  require  more  care  in  handling  than  dark 
ones.     As  a  rule,  white  furs  are  tanned  with  alum, 


230   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

which  is  solub  e  '.n  water.  The  following  methods 
for  cleaning  white  furs  are  used  in  one  of  the  larger 
cleaning  establishments  in  France:  To  each  five  or 
six  gallons  of  benzine  to  be  used  for  cleaning  the  furs 
is  added  one  ounce  of  eau-de-cologne.  This  addition 
does  not  assist  in  cleaning  the  furs,  its  use  in  this 
connection  being  to  neutralize  the  unpleasant  odor 
that  usually  remains  when  furs  are  cleaned  in  benzine. 
The  actual  cleaning  of  the  furs  is  done  with  the  ben- 
zine to  which  has  been  added  finely  powdered  borax 
in  the  proportion  of  two  oimces  of  borax  to  each  pint 
of  the  benzine.  The  mixture  is  well  stirred  and  allowed 
to  settle.  A  sponge  is  dipped  in  the  mixture  and  the 
fur  well  rubbed,  care  being  used  not  to  saturate  the 
padding.  When  the  fur  is  cleaned  it  is  partially  dried 
by  rubbing  with  a  soft  cotton  cloth.  Dry  farina  is 
now  rubbed  into  the  fur  with  a  sponge.  This  operation 
is  proceeded  with  until  the  fur  is  perfectly  dr>',  after 
.which  the  loose  powder  is  brushed  from  the  fur  and 
the  surface  rubbed  with  magnesia  and  a  soft  rag.  The 
fur  is  then  allowed  to  remain  in  a  warm  place  for  a 
short  time  and  is  finished  by  brushing  with  a  stiff  brush. 
Unlined  skins  are  treated  in  a  different  manner. 
As  the  first  step  they  are  placed  in  an  earthenware  jar 
and  covered  with  benzine,  where  they  are  allowed  to 
remain  for  some  time.  A  whiting  mixture  is  prepared 
as  follows :  Fourteen  ounces  of  whiting  are  .placed  in 
a  receptacle  and  one  gallon  of  cold  water  |xiured  over 
it.  Two  ounces  of  pearl  ashes  are  dissolved  in  boiling 
water  and  added  to  the  first  mixture,  which  is  allowed 
to  stand  for  twelve  hours.     At  the  end  of  this  time 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING.  23I 

the  water  is  carefully  drained  off  and  the  mixture  dried. 
When  dry  a  few  handfuls  are  placed  in  a  pan  and 
enough  benzine  added  to  make  a  thick  paste.  The 
furs  are  taken  out  of  the  benzine,  the  surplus  solvent 
squeezed  out  and  are  thickly  coated  with  the  mixture 
of  whiting  and  benzine.  They  are  then  hung  up  to 
dry,  after  which  the  whiting  is  removed  with  a  stiff 
brush.  Furs  treated  in  this  manner  are  said  to  present 
an  exceptionally  good  appearance. 

Where  the  skin  has  a  head  attached,  wet  cleaning 
is  out  of  the  question,  for  the  water  would  dissolve 
the  glue.  White  skins  are  best  cleaned  with  benzine 
and  talcum.  Furs  which  are  to  be  freed  from  moths 
and  moth  eggs  without  being  cleaned  should  be  ex- 
posed in  the  sulphur  chamber. 

Many  furs  cannot  stand  wet  cleaning,  being  inclined 
to  split  and  crack  and  drop  their  hair.  Such  skins 
come  from  over-fat  animals  or  from  such  as  have  died 
of  some  disease;  or  they  have  been  glued  together; 
in  any  case  they  are  difficult  to  distinguish  from  per- 
fect ones  until  handled.  It  is  better  to  clean  such  furs 
and  skins  cold,  or  to  use  benzine  soap  or  benzine,  and 
to  clean  them  rapidly.  Drying  on  the  half-moon  is 
also  not  advisable  in  this  case.  Neither  should  such 
skins  be  wrung  out,  but  rather  dried  flat.  Another 
method  for  treating  skins  is  as  follows:  To  keep  the 
leather  from  becoming  hard  or  from  breaking,  rub 
it  well  with  clarified  fish  oil.  Damp  common  salt 
well  rubbed  in  also  keeps  the  leather  in  good  condition. 
Furs  thus  treated  must  be  cleaned  with  cold  soap 
baths  and  we  1  rinsed.     Polar  bear  and  Angora  skins 


232   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

which  have  been  bleached  with  hydrogen  or  sodium 
I^eroxide  should  be  treated  in  this  manner.  The  bleach 
should  not  l)e  excessively  warm,  as  too  much  heat 
\vill  affect  the  leather. 

Skins  cleaned  with  benzine  must  not  be  shaken 
too  hard,  it  being  well  to  allow  them  to  retain  a  little 
benzine.  They  should  then  be  laid,  skin-side  down, 
on  a  table  and  thoroughly  rubbed  down  with  talcum, 
which  will  restore  to  the  fur  its  former  freshness. 

To  soften  hard  and  very  dirty  skins,  proceed  as 
follows:  First  of  all,  never  wet  clean  them,  but  after 
ripping  off  all  linings,  sponge  \vith  benzine,  taking 
care  not  to  rub  against  the  fur.  After  the  worst  dirt 
has  been  removed,  the  skin  should  be  placed  in  a 
long  trough,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wheat  flour 
jjoured  over  it  and  worked  well  into  the  fur.  After 
an  hour  or  so,  the  sldn  is  taken  out,  care  being  had 
not  to  shake  out  too  much  of  the  flour;  it  is  next 
hung  up  in  the  open  air  and  beaten  on  both  sides 
\\'ith  a  carpet  beater.  The  wrong  side  is  then  oiled 
and  the  skin  allowed  to  remain  in  this  state  for  24 
hours.  Should  it  still  be  hanl,  draw  it  over  a  perch- 
ing knife;  sift  the  remaining  flour  and  keep  it  for 
another  time  if  it  is  not  too  badly  soiled. 

Ladies*  and  gentlemen's  fur  collars  should  Ix*  w^ished 
in  lukewann  suds,  to  which  has  been  added  a  little 
ammonia,  rinsed  first  in  lukewann  water,  next  in  cold 
water,  and  then  finished  in  the  usual  way.  White  furs 
and  boas  are  best  cleaned  in  the  machine  with  benzine 
and  talcum. 

Sheepskins,  such  as  rugs,  ])erambulator  aj^rons,  etc. , 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING.  233 

are  preferably  washed  wdth  benzine  soap,  and  in  at 
least  fotir  cases  out  of  five  wet  washing  can  be  entirely 
avoided.  The  goods  are  brushed  over  with  a  strong 
solution  of  benzine  soap,  and  then  run  through  the 
washing  machine  for  from  30  to  45  minutes.  The  sub- 
sequent rinsing  wdth  benzine  should  be  very  thorough, 
or  the  wool  will  retain  a  greasy  feel. 

If  the  wool  is  ven^'  dirty  and  has  been  much  felted 
by  long  wear,  the  skin  must  be  wet  washed.  The 
first  thing  is  to  take  out  the  stuffing.  The  skins  are 
then  soaked  in  soft  water  for  a  time,  and  then  spread 
out,  and  the  coarser  dirt  is  removed  with  a  weak 
liquor  of  soda  and  ammonia.  Then  WTing  and  work 
by  hand  with  a  good  neutral  soap.  It  is  unneces- 
sary to  use  brushes,  as  the  fingers  can  get  doMTi  to 
the  leather  more  easily  and  quickly  than  a  brush. 
More  and  more  soap  is  poured  over  the  goods  till  the 
lather  remains  quite  white.  As  long  as  there  are  dirt 
and  grease  in  the  wool,  the  lather  will  feel  sticky,  and 
have  a  gray  color. 

Before  each  addition  of  fresh  soap  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  rinse  with  weak  soda,  whereby  considerable  saving 
in  soap  is  effected.  The  final  rinsing,  after  completion 
of  the  washing,  is  done  firs:  with  soda  and  then  with 
clean  water. 

The  whole  series  of  operations  is  carried  out  on  a 
bench  on  which  the  skins  can  be  spread  out  fiat. 

After  rinsing  we  come,  with  white  skins,  to  th^ 
bleaching.  Dyed  skins  must  be  soured  to  liven  the 
color,  using  sulphuric  acid  for  those  which  ha\^e  been  acid 
dyed,  and  acetic  acid  for  those  dyed  with  basic  dyes. 


234      ^f^^'    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Bleaching  ina>'  be  effected  by  means  of  jx)tassium 
permanj^'anatc.  sodium  ])eroxidc,  or  sulphurous  acid, 
the  latter  being  on  the  whole  the  best.  In  bleaching 
with  a  sulphur  chamber  no  rinsing  is  necessar>',  as  the 
more  soaj)  there  is  in  the  wool,  the  better  the  fumes 
of  the  burning  sulphur  act,  but  no  dirty  soap  must 
be  left  behind  in  the  Wool. 

For  bleaching  with  potassium  permanganate  a  dark 
reddish-violet  solution  is  made  with  the  permanganate 
and  water,  and  the  skin  stirred  in  it  for  20  to  30  min- 
utes, when  it  assvmies  a  dirty  brown  color.  It  is  then 
removed,  drained  and  immersed  in  a  strong  solution 
of  sul])hurous  acid.  If  this  bath  is  too  weak,  the  skins 
\vi\\  turn  yellow  all  over  or  in  places  in  the  course 
of  the  next  few  weeks.  The  skins  are  finally  rinsed, 
first  wth  ven,'  dilute  sulphuric  acid  and  then  with 
water  to  remove  all  trace  of  acid,  and  then  dried. 

With  the  use  of  sodium  peroxide,  all  contact  with 
metals  except  lead  must  be  avoided.  For  even.'  100 
lbs.  of  goods  take  140  gallons  of  cold  water  soured 
with  10  lbs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  slowly  stir  7^-2  lbs. 
of  the  peroxide  into  the  acid  liquid.  A  test  is  then 
made  with  litmus  paj^er,  and  if  the  bath  is  not  neutral 
It  must  be  made  so  by  adding  more  peroxide  or  more 
acid  as  the  case  may  be.  Four  pounds  of  silicate  of 
soda  of  45°  B^.  are  then  diluted  with  a  large  quancity 
of  water  and  added  to  the  bath.  Now  enter  the  goods 
and  raise  the  temperature  to  not  exceeding  90  F. 
during  one  hour.  Keep  at  the  same  temperature  for 
another  hour  or  two.  lift,  sour  in  very  weak  suli^huric 
acid — about    i   lb.  of  acid  in   140  gallons  of  water — 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING.  235 

rinse  repeatedly  in  water,   give  a  light  soap   bath, 
extract,  and  dr3^ 

As  extracting  does  not  dry  the  leather  which  would 
become  hard  in  the  drA-ing-room  if  placed  in  it  very 
wet,  the  skin  must  be  gone  over  v^-ith  a  special  blunt 
knife  to  squeeze  the  water  out  as  much  as  possible. 
Work  with  the  knife  towards  the  edge  from  the  middle, 
and  let  the  edges  hang  down  for  the  water  to  drip 
from  them.  Repeat  this  once  or  twice,  drying  a  little 
in  the  dr\-ing-room  in  the  inter\'als. 

Soap  washing  of  skins  should  not  be  done  at  a 
temperature  above  70  F.  Drying  is  effected  at  70 
to  75°  F.  in  a  drying-room,  or  in  the  open  air.  The 
skins  are  stretched  in  a  frame  under  tension.  If  in 
spite  of  all  care  the  leather  stiffens  and  becomes  hard, 
rub  a  little  oil  well  into  it  as  soon  as  it  is  quite  dry. 
Another  and  \'er}"  excellent  way  of  remo\nng  most  of 
the  moisture  left  after  extracting  is  to  stretch  the  fur 
hair  down,  fiat  on  a  table,  and  clamp  it  down.  It 
is  then  covered  to  a  depth  of  about  half  an  inch  with 
a  mixture  of  equal  weights  of  alum,  common  salt  and 
meal.  This  absorbs  nearly  all  the  water,  and  after 
lying  for  about  six  hours  can  be  scraped  oft".  The  skins 
of  small  articles  can  be  kept  soft  by  working  them 
over  a  blunt  knife-edge  a  few  times  during  the  drying. 
Ver^'  much  tendered  skins  can  sometimes  be  success- 
fully washed  and  dyed  if  sewn  for  the  time  being  on  a 
•  piece  of  strong  calico.  The  above-mentioned  after- 
treatment  with  common  salt  and  aliim  is  quite  un- 
necessary if  stearine  is  well  rubbed  into  the  leather 
before  the  wet  washing,  but  in  this  case  the  dried 


236   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

skins    miist    be    chemically   \\*ashed    to    remove    the 
stearine. 

A  method  for  cleaning  furs,  such  as  mufs,  collars, 
etc.,  which  answers  well  even  vs*ith  white  astrachans, 
is  as  follows:  The  furs  have  first  of  all  to  be  made 
absolutely  dn',  as  otherwise  the  subsequent  treat- 
ment with  benzine  would  be  useless.  In  fur  gar- 
ments, not  only  the  fvu-  itself  obstinately  retains  water, 
but  water  is  also  retained  by  cotton,  wool,  feathers 
and  other  accessories  so  frequently  associated  vsnth 
furs  in  the  shape  of  padding  or  ornament,  and  these 
also  greedi  y  absorb  moisture  from  the  air  and  retain 
it  with  great  tenacity.  However  dry  the  goods  may 
appear  when  received  by  the  cleaner,  they  should  be 
dried  slowly  at  a  moderate  temperature. 

\Mien  the  goods  are  quite  dry,  all  linings,  whether 
of  silk,  half-silk  or  cotton,  are  thoroughly  brushed 
over  with  benzine  soap.  They  then  get  a  benzine 
bath,  in  which  a  little  soap  has  been  dissolved,  and  are 
again  brushed  and  twice  rinsed,  wringing  well  between 
the  first  and  second  rinse.     They  are  then  extracted. 

If  they  are  not  quite  clean  at  this  stage,  they  re- 
turn to  the  benzine  bath,  one  or  two  turns  are  given, 
and  they  are  again  extracted.  Care  must  be  taken 
in  extracting  to  get  the  speed  up  gradually,  but  at 
the  last  to  use  the  maximum  velocity  obtainable.  In 
this  way,  not  only  is  the  greatest  possible  amount  of 
benzine  saved  for  redistillation  and  further  use,  but 
solid  impurities  which  the  benzine  has  not  dissolved 
are  prevented  from  lodging  in  the  fiber.  After  ex- 
tracting, the  goods  are  worked  for  about  ten  minutes 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING.  237 

in  warm  starch  powder.  The  starch  absorbs  nearly 
all  the  still-adher  ng  benzine,  so  that  when  the  goods 
are  afterwards  hung  up  to  dry,  the  drying  process  is 
very  rapid,  even  at  a  low  temperature.  This  is  the 
ideal  method  of  drying.  A  ^ow  temperature  which 
will  not  turn  the  goods  yellow  and  requires  little  steam, 
does  the  work  quickly  so  that  time  and  fuel  are  both 
saved.  The  starch  has  the  further  advantage  of  giving 
luster  to  the  furs,  and  improves  the  handle,  that  is, 
the  feel  of  the  goods. 

Pow^dered  gypsum  is  occasionally  used  instead  of 
starch.  It  is  of  course  far  cheaper  than  starch,  but 
its  use  cannot  be  recommended  for  an}^  but  the  very 
cheapest  class  of  goods,  as  the  benzine  left  in  the  fabric 
causes  the  gypsimi  to  impart  to  the  furs  a  gritty  feel. 

After  starching,  the  goods  are  dried  with  as  much 
star.ch  adhering  to  them  as  possible.  The  advisability 
of  carrying  out  this  drying  in  the  sun,  when  it  can 
possibly  be  done,  cannot  be  too  strongly  insisted  upon, 
especially  with  high-class  furs.  No  matter  how  care- 
fully the  drying-room  is  managed,  the  furs  leaving  it 
are  always  inferior  in  softness  and  fulness  of  handle  to 
those  which  have  been  dried  in  the  open  air.  When  the 
goods  are  quite  dry,  the  starch  is  removed,  first  by 
gently  beating,  and  then  by  thorough  brushing.  The 
brushes  used  must  be  soft  and  absolutely  clean.  They 
should  be  wrapped  in  clean  paper  and  stored  away 
where  no  dust  can  get  to  them  when  they  are  not  in 
use,  and  should  themselves  be  free  from  starch  powder 
before  being  put  away. 

Dyeing.     White  sheepskins  have  to  be  dyed  in  every 


238   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

imaginable  color;  furs  proper  are  usually  dyed  brow*n. 
gray,  blue  or  deep  black.  If  a  colored  fur  has  to  be 
re-dyed  after  cleaning,  it  is  well,  in  order  to  be  sure  of 
getting  the  original  color,  to  cut  away  a  little  of  the 
hair  which  seems  to  show  that  color  best  before  cl  an- 
ing,  and  dye  to  it  as  a  sample. 

To  increase  the  affinity  of  cleaned  skins  for  dye- 
stufifs  it  is  a  good  plan  to  immerse  them  for  several 
hours  in  a  cold,  clear  solution  of  bleaching  powder. 
They  are  then  rinsed  in  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  an  ex- 
cess of  which  must  be  subsequently  neutralized  if  the 
rugs  are  to  be  dyed  with  basic  colors,  the  latter  gen- 
erally be  ng  employed  with  or  without  the  addition 
of  Glauber's  salt  to  the  dye  bath.  WTien  acid  colors 
are  employed  it  is  ad\asable  to  substitute  formic  acid 
for  sulphuric  acid.  The  temperature  should  not  exceed 
95"  F.,  at  which  the  dyeing  takes  from  one  to  two  hours. 

Lamb  recommends  the  following  acid  dyestuffs: 
Fast  Red,  Azo  Fuschine,  Acid  Brown,  Old  Gold  G, 
Quinoline  Yellow,  Alkaline  Blue.  Acid  Green.  Naphtol 
Green,  Silver  Gray  N,  Naphthalamine  Black. 

The  follovNnng  process  for  dyeing  with  acid  dye-stuflfs 
has  been  patented.  The  skins,  well  cleaned  wth  soap, 
are  rinsed  in  water  and  dipjDcd  in  a  solution  contain- 
ing chromiimi  oxychloride,  1.8  ozs.;  basic  sulphate 
of  alumina,  3.6  ozs.;  common  salt,  3.6  ozs.;  acetate 
of  soda  (cr>*stalli2ed),  5.4  ozs.,  per  22  gallons  of  water. 

After  leaving  the  skins  for  a  few  hours  in  this  liquor, 
which  is  sufficient  for  ten  skins,  the  leather  is  tested 
by  cutting  to  see  if  it  has  been  properly  saturated  by 
the  liquor-  if  this  be  the  case  another  3.6  ozs.  chromium 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING.  230 

oxychloride  are  added,  and  the  skins  are  left  in  the 
liquor  for  24  to  36  hours,  being  occasionally  turned. 
They  are  then  lifted,  thoroughly  rinsed,  and  extracted. 
They  are  then  entered  into  a  cold  bath  of  13/  pints 
hydrochloric  acid  per  22  gallons  of  water,  where  they  are 
left  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  are  then  put  in  a 
clear  bleaching-powder  bath.    After  ha\4ng  been  worked 
in  the  liquor  for   20  minutes,    34:  pint   hydrochloric 
acid  is  added,  and  they  are  then  worked  for  a  further 
10  minutes.     They  are   then   put   back   for  another 
quarter  hour  in  the  first  bath  of  hydrochloric  acid, 
which  has  in  the  meantime  been  strengthened  by  the 
addition  of  a  pint  of  acid.     The  skins  are  then  well 
rinsed.    To  the  last,  lukewarm  rinsing  water,  3  to  4>^ 
ozs.  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  per  lo- gallons  are  added, 
which  is  followed  b}-  a  final  thorough  rinsing.     After 
extracting  the  skins  may  be  d3-ed  with  any  acid  dye- 
stuff  in  baths  up  to  167°  F.  without  fear  of  damaging 
the  leather.    The  dyestuffs  must,  however,  be  added 
slowly  and  the  temperature  must  be  low  in  the  begin- 
ning, slowly  rising  to  167°  F. 

Independent  of  the  coal-tar  d^^es,  gray  can  be  dyed 
by  mordanting  for  from  2  to  4  hours  in  a  bath  con- 
taining from  30  to  70  grains  of  sulphate  of  copper  per 
quart,  and  then  dyeing  in  a  fresh  bath  with  logwood, 
shading  if  necessar>^  with  fustic  or  methylene  blue. 
Fine  grays  can  be  obtained  in  every  variety  of  shade 
in  a  tannin  and  iron  bath.  For  browns  and  blacks  it 
is  best  to  use  the  various  dyes  especially  intended  for 
furs.  The  latter  are  not  dyestuffs  in  the  ordinary 
sense  of  the  word,  but  so-called  oxidation  colors,  i.  e., 


240      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER     GARMENT   DYER. 

colors  which  are  developed  upon  the  animal  fiber  by 
a  treatment  \\nth  oxidizing  agents,  such  as  iron  chloride, 
permanganates,  bichromates,  hydrogen  peroxide,  etc. 
They  are  used  as  follows:  Mordant  in  a  bath  contain- 
ing from  30  to  62  grains  of  bichromate,  15  to  30  grains 
of  tartar,  and  5  to  6  grains  of  sulphate  of  copjxjr  per 
qviart.  Then  rinse  slightly  and  dye  vsnth  the  proper 
color. 

A  still  better  mordant  for  black  than  that  given 
above  is  made  \\'ith  23  grains  of  sulphace  of  iron, 
7K  grains  of  sulphate  of  copper,  and  15  grains  of  tartar 
per  quart  of  water.  Many  furs  have  bristles,  which 
must  be  killed.  The  killing  liquid  is  made  by  dis- 
solving 2  ozs.  of  sal  ammoniac  and  >2  oz.  sulphate  of 
alumina  in  2  quarts  of  hot  water.  The  solution  is 
then  stirred  into  a  mixture  of  4  quarts  of  water  and 
7  ozs.  of  quicklime.  It  is  kept  covered  up  and  applied 
to  the  hair  side  ^^•ith  a  brush.  It  must  on  no  account 
touch  the  leather.  After  dr>'ing.  the  dust  is  beaten 
out  of  the  fur.  and  the  dyeing  is  proceeded  with. 

Fur  cuffs  and  other  accessories  to  garments  should 
be  treated  with  the  mordant,  dye.  etc.,  with  a  brush 
and  not  in  the  bath.  All  fur  dyes  are  used  with  hydro- 
gen peroxide,  neutralizing  the  acid  mixed  wth  the 
peroxide  with  a  little  soda  or  ammonia.  With  blacks 
care  must  be  taken,  however,  not  to  make  the  bath  too 
alkaline,  or  the  bleach  \\'ill  have  a  brown  shade.  For 
browns,  bleaching  powder  can  be  used  instead  of  the 
peroxide. 

The  fur  dyes  have  their  drawbacks  as  well  as  their 
advantages.     They  are  poisonous,  and  often  seriously 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING.  24I 

affect  persons  who  work  with  them  continuously  for 
long  periods.  It  is  obvious  that  goods  dyed  with 
fur  dyes  must  be  thoroughly  rinsed  to  prevent  injury 
to  the  wearer  of  the  fur.  Badly  rinsed  dyeings  also 
rub  off  a  great  deal.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  follow  up 
the  rinsing  with  a  bath  of  sulphate  of  copper — 15 
grains  per  quart — for  an  hour  or  cwo. 

Combing  after  drying  improves  the  appearance  of 
many  furs.  Thibets  and  curly  skins  must  of  course 
not  be  combed.  In  some  cases  the  dried  skins  are 
revolved  with  warm  sand  or  sawdust  in  dnims  in 
order  to  clean  away  any  extraneous  dye,  etc.,  which 
may  be  clinging  superficially  to  the  skins  or  the  hairs. 

As  there  is  great  variation  in  the  size  and  weight 
of  the  skins,  as  well  as  in  the  quantity ,of  hair  attached 
to  them,  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  give  definite  quan- 
tities of  dyestuffs  and  the  following  receipts  are  rather 
given  for  general  guidance  than  for  exact  application. 
The  best  general  rule  to  follow  is  to  start  with  small 
quantities  and  add  more  if  required,  as  shown  by  the 
dyeing  operation. 

I.  Black  on  skins,  a.  Dye  in  a  lukewarm  bath 
containing  2  lbs.  logwood  extract  for  every  8  gallons 
and  the  necessary  quantity  of  tiimeric  or  fustic.  After 
about  two  hours,  lift,  add  to  the  bath  6  or  7  ozs.  of 
sulphate  of  copper  per  8  gallons ;  re-enter  work  another 
hour,  lift,  and  rinse.  Then  partly  dry  the  fur  in  dry, 
warm  sawdust,  nail  it  to  a  board,  hair  downwards, 
give  the  skin  a  slight  rubbing  with  glycerine,  and 
leave  to  dry.  Supple  the  dried  skin  by  stretching 
and  beacing.      Finally  comb  the  hairs  with   a   clean 


2±Z      DRV    CLEANER     SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

oily  comb.  To  prevent  any  injur>'  to  the  skin,  the 
temperature  should  never  exceed  85°  or  95°  F.  through- 
out the  operation. 

b.  Logi^'ood  extract,  50  lbs.;  fustic,  9  lbs.;  copper 
acetate,  5  lbs.  dissolved  in  water.  80  gallons.  Main- 
tain the  bath  at  a  temperatiupe  of  104°  F.  Enter  the 
skins  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  this  liquor  for  3  to 
4  hours.  Then  add  iji  gallons  of  black  iron  liquor 
and  keep  the  goods  in  the  solution  imtil  black,  an 
immersion  for  30  to  40  hours  being  usually  required. 

c.  Log\N'ood  extract,  30  parts;  sumac  extract.  20 
parts;  copper  acetate,  4  parts;  iron  liquor,  10  parts. 

d.  Fur  Black  Standard  and  Fur  Black  Superior  give 
deep  blacks.  Prepare  a  cold  mordanting  bath  of  10 
gallons  of  water  ^N'ith  3  ozs.  of  bichromate  and  i>^ 
ozs.  of  tartaric  acid.  The  furs  are  left  in  this  bath  for 
several  hours  and  finally  washed.  The  cold  dye-bath 
is  prepared  with  j^  p)ound  of  fur  black,  and  5  lbs.  of 
peroxide  of  hydrogen  per  10  gallons  of  water.  The 
dyeing  effect  of  these  substances  is  produced  by  the 
addition  of  peroxide  of  hydrogen.  The  dyeing  is  done 
cold  for  several  hours  and  the  furs  are  frequently  stirred 
during  this  time. 

If  the  dyeing  is  to  be  done  by  brushing  on  the  dye- 
stuff,  the  furs,  as  a  rule,  will  need  no  pre\-ious  mor- 
danting, but  a  much  stronger  solution  of  the  dyestuff 
must  be  used.  The  dyestuff  is  applied  to  the  dr\'  fur 
by  means  of  a  brush. 

2.  Brcnvn  on  skins,  a.  Very  dark  broum.  Make  a 
bath  by  dissol\-ing  2  lbs.  of  paraphenylene  diamine  in 
ic  lbs.  of  methylated  spirit.     \Mien  the  solution  is 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING.  243 

completed  add  i  gallon  of  water.  Just  before  use  add 
to  the  bath  a  solution  of  i  lb.  of  bichromate  of  potash 
in  2  gallons  of  water.  Apply  the  complete  solutions 
with  a  soft  brush.  In  from  15  to  20  minutes  the  color 
is  fixed,  and  the  fur  is  rinsed  with  a  damp  sponge  and 
dried.  Hydrogen  peroxide  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
bichromate. 

Mordant  the  skins  with  3^  to  i^  ozs.  potassium 
bichromate,  and  }i  to  i  oz.  of  cream  of  tartar,  in  10 
quarts  of  water.  Then  bring  them  into  the  dye-bath. 
Sample  after  3  hours  for  a  medium  shade,  and  repeat 
the  sampling  from  time  to  time  according  to  the  shade 
desired.  A  dark  brown  will  be  obtained  in  about  18 
hours. 

h.  Red  brown  {light  shade).  Prepare  a  bath  with  10 
quarts  of  water,  3^  oz.  of  fur  brown,  5  ozs.  of  hydro-: 
gen  peroxide  and  %  oz.  of  ammonia.  Place  the  furs, 
previously  mordanted,  as  explained  in  h,  in  the  bath 
for  6  hours,  then  lift  and  dry. 

3.  Chestnut  on  skins.  Prepare  a  bath  by  dissolving 
2  lbs.  amindol  in  10  lbs.  methylated  spirit.  When 
solution  is  complete,  add  a  solution  of  about  13  ozs. 
of  carbonate  of  potash  in  i  gallon  of  water.  Before  use 
add  to  the  bath  solution  of  bichromate  in  water  as 
given  under  very  dark  brown.  This  applies  also  to 
the  following: 

4.  Russet  on  skins.  As  given  for  chestnut,  but  use 
only  half  the  quantity  of  potash  and  substitute  for 
the  amindol  the  same  amount  of  paramidophenol. 

5.  Golden  on  skins.  A  pale  golden-yellow  is  ob- 
tained in   a  bath  made  with    i    lb.   of  carbonate   of 


244   1^*<V  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

potash,   2   lbs.   p\Togallic  acid,   yi  gallon  water,  and 
xyi  gallons  methylated  spirit. 

6.  Silver  gray  on  skins.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  ^^^th 
2  parts  of  Nigrosine  and  20  parts  of  Glauber's  salt. 

7.  Scarlet  on  skins.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  2 
parts  Azo  Cochineal,  10  parts  Glauber's  salt  and  2 
parts  sulphuric  acid. 

8.  Orange  on  skins.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  1 
part  Crocein  Orange.  10  parts  Glauber's  salt  and  2 
parts  sulphuric  acid.     This  gives  a  full  bright  shade. 

g.  Bright  green  on  skins.  Make  the  dye-bath  with 
I  part  of  Green  Crystals,  >4  part  Auramine,  and  10 
parts  Glauber's  salt. 

10.  Maroon  on  skins.  Use  for  the  dye-bath  i  part 
Magenta,  10  parts  Glauber's  salt,  and  a  little  Nile  Blue. 

The  skins,  etc.,  when  cleaned  and  dyed,  have  to  be 
dried,  and  for  this  purpose  should  be  stretched  so  as 
to  prevent  shrinkage,  which  causes  them  to  become 
hard.  "WTiile  drying  they  should  occasionally  be  shaken 
to  open  out  the  fiber  and  prevent  matting.  WTien  dr>* 
the  hair  side  should  be  well  brushed  to  separate  the 
hairs  as  much  as  possible.  It  is  also  ad\'isable  for  the 
purpose  of  softening  the  skins  to  rub  the  fiesh  side 
with  a  little  castor  oil,  or  a  mixture  of  castor  oil  and 
yolk  of  egg. 


VI. 

CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS. 

Cleaning.  Feathers  which  have  been  previously 
dyed  and  simply  require  cleaning,  are  best  washed  in 
a  weak  lukewarm  soapbath,  made  by  dissolving  a 
piece  of  good  castile  soap  in  warm  water,  well  working 
and  drawing  through  the  fingers  or  hands;  and  finally 
rinsing  them  in  soft  warm  water.  The  soap  liquor 
should  not  be  too  warm,  a  hand-heat  being  quite 
sufficient.  Too  hot  a  liquor  might  result  in  taking 
some  of  the  color  off  the  feathers,  which  would  neces- 
sitate re-dyeing.  Pale-colored  feathers  should  be  treated 
in  a  very  weak  and  cold  soapbath.  A  little  ammonia 
added  to  the  bath  is  beneficial. 

Blacks,  browns,  and  most  ordinary  dark  colors, 
can  often  be  brightened  by  an  immersion  for  ten  to 
twenty  minutes  in  a  warm  decoction  of  logwood,  fol- 
lowed by  rinsing;  this  will  usually  be  sufficient  prep- 
aration for  the  dressing  and  drying  processes.  Dry 
cleaning  processes  are  of  little  use  in  treating  feathers, 
but  the  feathers  may  be  chemically  purified.  For 
this  purpose  they  should  be  placed  in  a  somewhat 
long  and  narrow  china  basin  containing  benzine  and 
(  245  ) 


246      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

raw  potato  starch,  which  is  insoluble  in  the  liquid, 
and  the  feathers  moved  about  rajjidly  in  this  bath. 
This  mixture  scn'cs  to  dissolve  the  fatty  and  other 
obnoxious  materials  on  the  feathers.  These  imimri- 
ties  pass  into  the  solvent,  and  the  feathers  are  after- 
wards taken  out  and  dried,  the  starch  beinj,'  removed 
by  shakinj!;  them  out.  After  having  bden  cleaned  as 
systematically  as  possible,  the  feathers  should  be 
brushed,  and  finally  dried  in  the  open  air,  if  possible. 
They  must  be  exposed  until  all  the  benzine  odor  has 
disappeared. 

The  dressing  of  feathers  consists  in  jjassing  them 
several  times  in  a  liquor  of  raw  (unboiled)  potato 
starch,  then  pressing  them  carefully  and  evenly  be- 
tween two  sheets  of  clean  white  blotting  or  filtering- 
paper  or  linen  cloth.  The  passing  of  the  feathers 
through  the  liquor  may  be  re])catcd  as  many  as  eight 
or  more  times.  Feathers  and  articles  made  of  feathers, 
such  as  boas,  stoles,  etc.,  which  have  been  cleaned 
or  dyed,  have  a  very  bedraggled  appearance  when 
wet.  the  hairs  or  "flues"  of  the  feathers  being  matted 
together.  To  open  up  the  flues  the  feathers  are  dipi)ed 
In  cold  watfer  containing  search  or  farina.  After  dr^'ing 
in  the  open  air  or  by  means  of  artificial  heat,  the 
starch  is  gently  beaten  or  shaken  out,  and  the  flues 
ojjen  up  to  cheir  original  condition  and  are  ready  for 
curling. 

Natural  white  feathers  are  re-whitened  by  half  an 
hour's  careful  treatment  in  a  te])id  soap  bath,  after 
which  they  must  be  thoroughly  washed  in  a  fresh  warm 
soa])  bath  Auth  a  strong  lather.     They  subsequently 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  247 

have  to  be  washed  three  times  in  a  warm  water  bath, 
and  then  placed  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  a 
weak  clear,  and  cold  oxalate  of  potash  or  ammonia 
bath,  and  afterw^ards  passed  through  a  weak  solution 
of  Prussian  or  Paris  blue,  in  order  to  neutralize  the 
yellow  tone  produced  through  the  action  of  the  cleaning 
agents. 

The  feathers  are  next  pressed  between  blotting- 
paper  and  dried  in  the  open  air.  Raw  white  feathers 
must  be  first  thoroughly  freed  from  fatty  matters  by 
means  of  strong  soap  and  alkaline  solutions,  and 
this  treatment  is  especially  required  when  the  feathers 
have  to  be  dyed,  as  otherwise  an  even  color  cannot 
be  obtained.  The  quills  should  be  separately  treated 
previous  to  the  cleaning  process.  This  treatment 
consists  simply  in  rubbing  them  with  a  solution  of 
bicarbonate  of  ammonia  or  oxalate  of  ammonia. 
Thorough  working  in  benzine  is  also  good  for  re- 
moving grease  from  new  feathers. 

Sometimes  good  white  feathers  or  feathers  which 
are  to  be  dyed  in  pale  tints  require  bleaching.  This 
can  be  done  by  burning  sulphur  or  by  preparing  a 
bath  of  hydrogen  peroxide,  adding  a  little  ammonia 
to  make  it  alkaline,  steeping  the  feathers  in  this  over 
night,  and  the  next  day  heating  at  about  150°  F., 
and  allowing  to  steep  for  some  hours  in  the  warm 
bath,  after  which  they  require  only  rinsing.  If  not 
sufficiently  bleached,  repeat  the  treatment.  Feathers 
which  are  to  be  dyed  black,  or  dark  greens  or  browns, 
need  only  to  be  scoured  simply  in  a  tepid  soda  bath 
to  remove  grease;  then,  before  dyeing  with  the  de- 


248      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

coctions  of  the  dyewcxxis  they  are  mordanted  with 
a  solution  of  pemitrite  of  iron. 

Dyeing.  Before  proceeding  to  deal  vsnth  the  dye- 
ing process  for  feathers,  it  is  necessary  to  say  a  few 
words  in  regard  to  the  utensils  which  can  be  used  v^'ith 
safety  and  \\nth  the  greatest  practical  advantage  for 
these  operations.  A  knowledge  of  the  chemical  com- 
position of  the  various  articles  used  by  the  dyer  is 
most  desirable  not  only  by  those  who  supervise  the 
work  as  a  whole,  but  also  by  the  indi\ndual  operator. 
He  should  be  well  acquainted  wth  the  chemical  and 
mechanical  action  of  the  various  chemicals  and  mate- 
rials used  on  the  feathers  to  be  dyed.  The  color 
shades  got  in  many  instances  are  of  a  totally  different 
tint  from  that  which  was  intended  to  be  produced, 
and  the  actual  cause  is  either  to  be  found  in  the  action 
of  chemicals  used  for  mordanting  and  dyeing,  and 
possibly  for  cleaning  the  feathers,  or  in  the  quality 
of  the  water  used,  or  in  the  injudicious  choice  of  mor- 
danting and  dyeing  materials,  or  using  one  or  other 
of  these  in  too  large  quantities,  to  say  nothing  of 
adding  wTong  materials.  As  feathers  belong  to  the 
category  of  animal  products,  like  wool  and  silk,  they 
can  only  be  dyed  in  full  shades  by  the  use  of  a  some- 
what high  temperature,  but  lx)iling  heat  need  only 
be  used  for  dark  colors,  and  it  is  best  to  keep  the  heat 
as  low  as  possible. 

When  feathers  are  boiled  while  in  the  dye-bath, 
the  ebullition  of  heat  seems  to  have  a  tendency  to 
open  the  pores  of  the  fibers,  and  thus  allow  a  free 
access  to  the  interior  of  the  feather  by  the  mordants 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  249 

or  dyes.  If  desirable,  the  mordants  can  be  used  be- 
fore or  after  the  actual'  dyeing  operations.  It  is,  in 
many  cases,  very  advantageous  to  use  the  mordant 
before  dyeing  as  well  as  concurrently  with  the  dye. 
The  application  of  too  large  a  quantity  of  mordant 
must,  on  the  other  hand,  be  avoided,  as  in  using  iron 
and  bichromate  mordants  such  excesses  are  likely  to 
produce  rusty  greenish  or  gray  hues.  Another  very 
important  point  demanding  attention  is  the  fact  that 
the  finer  the  feather  the  more  dye  is  required  for  the 
production  of  the  desired  shades.  This  is  one  of  the 
greatest  difficulties  to  be  encountered  by  the  dyer,  for 
it  is  no  easy  task  to  decide  at  once  how  large  a  quan- 
tity is  necessary  to  produce  the  desired  shade. 

For  light  colors  a  strong  and  finely  glazed  china 
basin  of  a  white  color  is  best  adapted  for  dyeing. 
Metal  utensils  can  be  used,  but  the  former  are  best 
for  delicate  colors,  and  a  sufficient  amount  of  heat 
can  be  produced  by  means  of  a  water-bath.  The 
inside  of  the  vessel  should,  however,  be  as  light  as 
possible,  and  the  application  and  additions  of  dyes 
effected  with  the  utmost  caution. 

The  color  tones  can  be  accurately  discerned  and 
regulated  in  such  a  white  basin.  If  perfectly  enameled 
metal  basins  are  used,  the  action  of  the  chemicals 
cannot  affect  the  enamel,  and  the  penetration  to  the 
metal  itself  is  almost  an  impossibility. 

The  temperature  can  be  regulated  by  using  a  water- 
bath,  and  can  be  maintained  at  167°  to  176°  F.,  which 
is  quite  sufficient  for  pale  tints.  Boiling  heat  is,  on 
the  other  hand,  usually  required  in  producing  dark 


250      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

colors  for  shades  on  feathers,  and  copper  vessels  or 
kettles  with  a  double  bottom  are  best  adapted  for 
the  jiurpose.  Such  utensils  are  sometimes  heated  by 
being  placed  on  hot  plates,  and  a  continuous  heat 
is  thereby  maintained  during  the  process  of  the 
operations. 

Well-enameled  vessels  of  an  oblong  shape  arc  best 
to  use,  as  these  are  especially  adapted  for  placing 
the  feathers  in  full  length  without  any  bending. 

For  all  colors  except  black  and  a  few  light  colors, 
the  acid  coal-tar  colors  should  if  possible  be  used. 
Feathers  dyed  with  these  colors,  after  being  once  or 
twice  rinsed,  are  finally  drawn  through  a  bath  acidu- 
lated with  sulphuric  acid  and  then  dried. 

With  ostrich  feathers  or  large  fancy  feathers,  the 
addition  of  coloring  matter  is  best  effected  by  placing 
the  articles  in  a  sieve,  or  a  willow-ware  basket,  since 
if  they  remained  in  the  kettle  they  would  break  and  • 
tear  in  consequence  of  the  necessarily  rapid  handling, 
and,  besides,  would  spot.  The  dissolved  coloring 
matter  is  added  to  the  dye-bath,  stirred,  and  the 
sieve  or  basket  containing  the  fealhtTS  is  ]ilaccd 
in  it. 

For  smaller  fancy  articles,  such  as  chicken  feathers 
and  small  wings,  the  addition  of  the  coloring  matter 
is  effected  as  follows:  Bring  the  dissolved  coloring 
matter  into  a  copper  pan  which  holds  i  to  3  quarts 
and  is  provided  with  a  long  handle.  Fill  the  pan 
with  dye-bath  or  water  and  quickly  plunge  it.  whilst 
constantly  stirring  the  feathers,  into  the  kettle,  empty- 
ing it  on  the  bottom.     A  better,  but  more  trouble- 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  251 

some,  method  is  as  follows:  Pour  one-third  or  one- 
half  of  the  dye  bath  through  a  sieve  into  a  kettle,  so 
that  the  feathers  remain  behind;  then  add  the  color- 
ing matter,  stir  thoroughly,  and  return  the  whole, 
with  constant  stirring  of  the  feathers,  to  the  kettle. 
In  this  manner  a  very  uniform  and  rapid  distribution 
of  the  coloring  matter  is  effected. 

The  dyeing  of  fancy  feathers  differs  in  several  re- 
spects from  that  of  ostrich  feathers. 

The  portions  of  birds,  such  as  the  goose,  duck,  king- 
fisher, penguin,  pelican,  etc.,  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  ornamental  feathers,  require  for  dark  colors  a  greater 
affinity  for  the  coloring  matter  than  they  naturally 
possess.  This  is  produced  by  the  addition  of  sulphate 
of  sodium  (Glauber's  salt)  to  the  acidulated  dye  bath, 
bisulphite  of  sodiimi  being  thereby  formed,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  the  fiber  is  more  disintegrated  and 
absorbs  the  coloring  matter  more  uniformly  and  to  a 
greater  degree. 

IVIoreover,  the  feathers  of  the  above-mentioned  birds 
require  greater  heat,  and  may  gently  boil  for  from  y^ 
to  yi  hour.  But  this  cannot  be  done  with  articles 
containing  portions  of  flesh,  sinews,  or  skins,  since 
they  would  dissolve  and  the  articles  fall  to  pieces. 
For  skins,  birds,  heads,  wings,  etc.,  the  heat  employed 
should  not  exceed  167°  F.  In  such  cases  the  advantage 
of  greater  heat  must  be  compensated  by  the  greater 
strength  of  the  bath. 

Ostrich  feathers  are  tied  together  by  the  lower  ends 
of  the  quills  in  bundles  of  from  3  to  5,  and  30  to  40 
of  such  bundles  are  strung  together. 


252      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 
DYEING    OSTRICH    FEATHERS. 

7.  Cleaning,  a.  Large  feathers.  The  feathers  are 
soaked  in  a  strong  solution  of  castile  soap  at  ioo°  F.. 
for  one  hour,  or,  still  better,  over  night,  and  then 
washed  upon  a  washboard  for  lo  minutes.  They  are 
then  brought  into  a  weak  soda  bath  of  the  above- 
mentioned  temperature  and  treated  in  the  same  manner. 
The  entire  manipulation  is  then  repeated  with  fresh 
baths,  when  the  feathers  are  thoroughly  rinsed,  drawn 
through  a  bath  acidulated  \\'ith  sulphuric  acid,  and 
again  rinsed. 

h.  Feathers  in  bulk.  For  lo  lbs.  of  ostrich  feathers 
prepare  a  bath  of  5  lbs.  of  crystallized  soda  dissolved 
in  50  quarts  of  water,  and  add  a  small  quantity  of 
ammonia.  Heat  the  bath  to  100"  F..  introduce  the 
feathers,  and  a  low  them  to  remain  for  4  to  10  hours. 
Cover  the  vessel  \\'ith  a  lid  fitting  in  it,  so  that  the 
feathers  reman  completely  submerged.  Then  wash 
the  feathers  piece  by  piece,  ujjon  a  washboard,  rub- 
bing them  quite  strongly.  Then  reat  them  in  a 
second  bath  of  7  lbs.  of  crystallized  soda  and  a  little 
ammonia,  though  they  need  not  remain  in  this  bath  as 
long  as  in  the  first.  After  again  washing,  the  feathers 
are  several  times  rinsed  in  cold  water  and  then  in 
warm  water,  drawn  through  a  lukewarm  bath  acidu- 
lated with  sulphuric  acid,  and  again  rinsed. 

2.  Decolorizing.  The  feathers  cleaned  in  the  above- 
described  manner  are  laid  flat  in  a  bath  of  50  per 
cent,  peroxide  of  hydrogen.  3  per  cent,  ammonia, 
and  47  per  cent,  water  heated  to  ico°  F.     The  am- 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  253 

monia  is  added  after  the  bath  has  acquired  the  above- 
indicated  temperature.  A  glass  or  stoneware  vessel 
shou  d  be  used  for  the  bath.  Work  the  feathers 
thoroughly  in  the  bath,  let  them  rest  a  moment,  and 
work  again.  Then  allow  them  to  rest  y2  hour,  and  work 
once  more. 

The  bath  should  be  protected  from  the  light,  and, 
while  resting,  the  feathers  must  be  submerged.  This  is 
effected  by  placing  a  lid  fitting  in  the  vessel  upon  the 
feathers  and  loading  it  with  a  weight. 

When  the  bath  is  perceptibly  exhausted,  /.  c,  when 
the  bleaching  process  no  longer  progresses,  the  feathers 
are  taken  out  and  the  treatment  above  described  is 
repeated  with  a  fresh  bath.  The  originally  gray  or 
black  feathers  will  finally  appear  white.  They  are 
then  taken  out,  rinsed  in  several  waters,  and  finally 
drawn  through  a  bath  quite  strongly  acidulated  with 
sulphuric  acid.  The}"  are  then  again  rinsed,  and  have 
now  the  ground  required  for  all  light  colors.  If  they 
are  to  be  used  white,  they  are  slightly  blued. 

J.  Degreasing.  After  cleaning  the  feathers  accord- 
ing to  the  directions  given  under  i  b,  they  are  brought 
into  a  bath  which,  for  10  lbs.  of  black  ostrich  feathers, 
is  prepared  as  follows:  Pour  into  a  stoneware  vessel 
of  loo-quarts  capacity,  75  quarts  of  cold  water,  then 
add  the  solution  of  10  lbs.  of  chromate  of  potassium, 
and  finally  5  lbs.  of  pure  sulphuric  acid  of  66  degrees. 
After  stirring  thoroughly,  lay  the  feathers  flat  in  th« 
bath,  turn  them  over,  and  cover  the  vessel.  The}^  are 
then  turned  over  every  hour  until  the  natiu-ai  color  is 
uniformly  stripped  off  and  the  feathers  show  a  light  color. 


254      I^RV    CLEANER.    SCOURER,    CJARMENT    DYER. 

Care  must  be  taken  not  to  allow  the  feathers  to 
remain  in  the  bath  longer  than  necessar>'  for  the  re- 
mo\-al  of  the  natural  color,  and  also  not  to  keep  the 
bath  too  hot.  In  both  cases  the  feathers  are  attacked 
and  mav  ver>'  easily  become  entirely  worthless.  The 
heat  should  not  exceed  89°  F.  The  feathers  are 
now  rinsed  in  two  cold,  and  several  warm,  baths. 
The  warm  rinsing  baths  being  used  for  the  puroose 
of  more  rajjidly  removing  the  potassium,  the  feathers 
are  left  in  them  for  some  time.  When  the  chromate 
of  potassium  has  been  completely  removed,  the  feathers 
are  worked  in  an  pxalic  acid  bath  for  y^  hour  and 
rinsed.  They  arc  then  worked  in  a  bath  of  2  lbs.  of 
castile  soap,  and  rinsed  in  several  warm  baths.  The 
feathers  are  now  sufficiently  jirepared  for  the  uniform 
reception  of  all  medium  and  dark  colors.  Gray  ostrich 
feathers  reriuire  only  half  the  quantity  of  chromate 
of  potassium  and  sulpharic  ac'c. 

4.  White.  In  case  the  white  of  the  feathers  cleaned, 
according  to  directions  given  under  i  a,  is  disfigured 
by  natural  brown  spots  and  i:)oints,  they  are  brought 
into  a  bath  of  100°  F.,  to  which  from  10  to  20  oer  cent, 
of  peroxide  of  hydrogen  has  been  added.  They  are 
taken  out  after  half  an  hour  or  an  hour  and  brought 
into  a  bath  of  3  per  cent,  jxitassivun  bisulphide  heated 
to  110°  F.,  where  they  remain  for  half  an  hour,  when 
they  arc  taken  out  and  brought  into  a  Ijath  acidulated 
with  suli)huric  acid.  They  are  then  rinsed  and  drawn 
through  a  cold  l)ath  to  which  a  small  quantity  of 
Aniline  Violet,  dissolved  in  alcohol,  or  Maine  Blue, 
has  hern  added. 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  255 

It  may  be  remarked  that  the  more  yellowish  the 
white  appears,  the  more  of  a  reddish  hue  the  blue  to 
be  used  should  have,  otherwise  a  greenish  tint  is  readily 
produced. 

5.  Dyeing  black,  a.  For  ^  lb.  of  feathers  prepare  a 
bath  by  dissolving  ^  oz.  of  calcined  soda  in  50  quarts 
of  water  of  86°  F.  Rub  the  quills  with  a  piece  of 
ammonium  carbonate  and  place  the  feathers  in  the 
soda  solution,  allowing  them  to  remain  in  it  for  ^ 
hour.  In  place  of  the  soda,  double  the  quantity  of 
ammonium  carbonate  may  be  used  and  the  feathers 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  bath  overnight. 

After  taking  the  feathers  from  the  bath,  rinse  in 
cold  water  and  place  them  for  5  to  6  hours  in  a  nitrate 
of  iron  bath  of  7°  Be.  Then  take  them  out  and  rinse 
in  cold  water.  Boil  2  lbs.  of  logwood  and  4  lbs. 
quercitron,  and  enter  the  feathers  in  the  lukewarm 
bath. 

Work  them  in  the  bath  jast  below  the  boil  until  the 
black  is  developed,  when  they  are  taken  out  and  rinsed 
in  lukewarm  water.  Finally,  dissolve  3^  ozs.  of 
potash  in  6  quarts  of  water  and  stir  8  o^s.  of  oil  into  the 
solution  so  that  the  oil  is  evenly  divided.  Draw  the 
feathers  separately  through  this  bath,  allow  to  drain 
off  without  squeezing,  and  swing  them. 

b.  Place  the  degreased  feathers  in  a  cold  bath  pre- 
pared by  adding  i  part  of  red-iron  liquor  (nitrate  of 
Iron)  41.2°  Be.  to  3  parts  of  water  and  allow  them  to 
remain  therein  overnight.  Then  wash  chem  well, 
using  for  the  last  rinse  water  containing  a  little  am- 
monia.   Make  up  a  logwood  bath  as  follows :    Logwood 


256   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

extract,  i  part;  water.  200  parts.  Soap  may  also  be 
added. 

Work  the  feathers  in  the  bath  just  below  the  boil 
until  the  black  is  developed.  Then  rinse  them  in 
water,  followed  by  a  warm  soap  bath.  After  rinsing 
in  warm  water  place  them  for  2  or  3  minutes  in  a 
cold  bath  of  potassium  dichromate  (jS^  per  cent,  solu- 
tion) and  then  rinse  well. 

c.  Black  can  -also  be  dyed  by  usinj^  for  1 1  lbs.  of 
feathers  a  bath  containing  i  lb.  Neutral  Wool  Black 
4B,  2  ozs.  Indian  Yellow  G,  i>^  lbs.  Glauber's  salt,  and 
I  lb.  sulphuric  acid.  This  \nelds  a  fine,  full,  jet- 
black,  very  fast.  One  advanta^'e  of  using  this  method 
over  the  logwood  process  is  that  the  feathers  are  left 
softer  and  in  a  better  condition  for  finishing. 

6.  Bronze,  a.  Green.  The  feathers  dyed  black  ac- 
cording to  the  directions  given  under  5  a  are  brought 
into  a  bath  of  100°  F.,  to  which,  for  every  11  lbs.  of 
feathers,  a  solution  of  7  ozs.  Magenta  crv'stals  has 
been  added.  After  heating  the  bath  to  167°  F.,  manip- 
ulate the  feachers  in  it  until  they  show  a  beautiful, 
lustrous  green-bronze.    Then  take  them  out  and  rinse. 

b.  Olive.  Treat  as  above  ^^^th  a  dye-bath  consisting 
of  3^  ozs.  of  Diamond-Fuchsine  and  2)4  ozs.  of  e.xtra 
superfine  Aniline  Violet  6B. 

c.  Gold.  Treat  as  above  \\\\h  a  dye-bath  consisting 
of  1-^4  ozs.  of  Fuchsine  powder  and  5I4  ozs.  of  extra 
superfine  Acid  Violet  6B. 

7.  Otlier  colors,  including  fashionable  colors,  a. 
Cream,  ivory.  Naturally  white  or  thoroughly  de- 
colorized feathers  are  dved  in  a  "hand-heat"  bath,. 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  257 

to  which  a  very  small  quantity  of  dissolved  Pale 
Yellow  has  been  added.  Final  shading  according  to 
samp'e  is  effected  with  a  very  small  quantity  of  Orange. 
It  may  here  be  remarked  that  all  the  vessels  used 
must  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  especially  when  used 
for  light  colors. 

b.  Rose.  Dye  the  pure-white  feathers  a  yellowish- 
rose  with  a  very  weak  solution  of  Eosine  or  Safframine, 
shaded,  if  necessary,  with  a  pale  yellow,  such  as  Aura- 
mine  or  Metanil  Yellow.  The  dyeing  should  take  place 
in  a  neutral  bath  having  a  temperature  of  167°  F.  If 
the  sample  is  bluish,  shade  the  Eosine  with  a  drop  of 
violet,  using  for  this  purpose  either  Methyl  Violet  or 
Acid  Violet  Bluish. 

c.  Salmon.  Dye  with  a  solution  of  Eosine  and 
Pale  Yellow  in  a  neutral  bath  of  167°  F.  Shade  ac- 
cording to  sample  with  both  coloring  matters. 

d.  Maise,  bamboo.  Dye  the  white  feathers  in  a 
bath  to  which  sulphuric  acid,  Azo  Yellow,  and  a  little 
Acid  Orange  has  been  added,  heating  up  to  190°  F. 
For  bamboo  add  a  little  more  orange  than  for  maise. 
Final  shading  is  effected  with  the  above-mentioned 
dyestuffs,  according  to  sample. 

To  all  acid  dye-baths  only  so  much  sulphuric  and 
tartaric  acids  should  be  added  that  a  small  excess  is 
perceptible  to  the  taste. 

e.  Pale  blue.  Manipulate  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
the  cleansed  white  feathers  in  a  bath  to  which  a  weak 
solution  of  extra  superfine,  water-soluble  Pale  Blue 
has  been  added,  heating  up  to  190°  F.  Then  take 
out  the  feathers  and  add  to  the  dye-bath  sufficient 


25S      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

sulphuric  acid  diluted  with  cold  water  to  give  it  a 
slightly  acid  taste.  Then  replace  the  feathers,  handle 
them  for  some  time,  and,  if  necessar>',  acW  coloring 
matter  until  the  sample  color  has  been  obtained. 

/.  Butter,  houton  d'or,  mandarin,  coq  rochc.  The 
feathers  decolorized,  or  eventually  freed  from  grease, 
are  brought  into  a  bath  of  145°  F.  to  which  some 
sulphuric  acid,  Azo  Yellow,  and  a  little  Orange  have 
been  added.  Handle  thoroughly  and  effect  final  shad- 
ing with  the  above-mentioned  coloring  matters. 

For  houton  d'or  a  little  Blue  may  also  be  employed; 
for  mandarin  quite  a  considerable  quarftity  of  Orange; 
and  for  coq  roclte  much  Orange  and  some  Ponceau. 
The  bath  is  heated  to  200*  F. 

g.  Parmc,  heliotrope,  prune.  The  feathers  are  dyed 
in  a  bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid  and  heated 
to  145°  F.,  with  Acid  Violet  R  and  Acid  Violet  ()B. 
According  to  whether  the  sample  is  clearer  or  duller, 
final  shading  may  also  be  effected  with  Acid  Fuchsine, 
Fast  Red,  Ponceau,  Orange,  and.  on  the  other  hand, 
with  Indigotine.    Heat  to  200°  F. 

It.  Gold,  old  gold.  White  feathers  are  dyed,  accord- 
ng  to  sample,  in  an  acidulated  bath  at  145®  F.  with 
Azo  Yellow,  Orange,  Indulenc. 

i.  Gray.  For  the  paler  shades,  white  feathers  are 
taken,  and  for  the  darker,  feathers  freed  from  fat. 
They  are  dyed  witli  Aniline  Gray,  extra  superfine, 
and  sulphuric  acid  at  200°  F.  Shade  according  to 
sample  with  very  small  additions  of  Fast  Bro\m, 
Orange,  Azo  Yellow,  etc. 

;'.  Coquelicot,   cardinal.      Dye    the    feathers,    either 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  259 

white  or  freed  from  fat,  according  to  sample,  with 
sulphuric  acid,  some  tartaric  acid,  Ponceau  3R  and 
Carmoisime,  at  200°  F. 

k.  Garnet.  Treat  like  the  preceding,  but  according 
to  sample;  use  for  yellow  tones  red  coloring  matters 
with  a  yellow  tinge,  such  as  Orange,  Ponceau  with 
Indigotine;  and  for  blue  tones  coloring  matters  with 
a  bluish  tinge,  such  as  Fast  Red,  Acid  Fuchsine;  also 
Acid  Violet,  or  Navy  Blue. 

/.  Beige,  tobacco,  Siam,  and  intervening  shades.  Fea- 
thers freed  from  fat  m.ay  be  used.  H'eat  and  acidity 
of  the  bath  as  usual.  Dj^e  with  Azo  Yellow,  Orange  and 
Indigotine.  Fast  Brov/n  as  well  as  Fast  Red,  Ponceau, 
or  Indigo  Blue  may  be  used  as  required. 

m.  Chartretise — -pale  yellow  green.  Dye  white  fea- 
thers, according  to  sample,  in  a  bath  heated  to  200°  F. 
with  sulphuric  acid  and  Acid  Green. 

n.  Cresson — didl  yellow  green.  Dye  in  the  ordinary 
acidulated  bath  with  Azo  Yellow,  Acid  Green,  and 
Anihne  Gray,  extra  superfine,  as  well  as  eventually 
with  some  Orange.  Heat  to  200°  F,  Shade  according 
to  sample,  if  necessary,  with  Indigotine  or  Indulene. 

o.  Olive.  Dye  with  Azo  Yellow,  Orange,  and  Acid 
Green  in  the  acidulated  bath,  at  200°  F.  Shade,  if 
required,  with  Indulene  and  also  Fast  Brown.  Feathers 
freed  from  grease  may  be  used. 

p.  Vesuve,  Etna — -dtdl,  fiery  tones.  Dye,  according 
to  sample,  white  feathers,  or  feathers  freed  from 
grease,  in  the  ordinary  bath  with  sulphuric  acid, 
Ponceau,  Orange,  and  eventually  Azo  Yellow,  as  well 
as  for  bluing,  with  Indigotine,  or  Acid  Violet.     Much 


26o      1)K^     CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

red   and   yellow  coloring  matters  give  a  deep,  fiery 
tone. 

q.  Old-rose  belongs  to  the  so-called  distemper  colors. 
Dye  in  the  ordinary  bath,  according  to  sample,  with 
Carmoisine,  Ponceau,  or  Orange,  and  a  pure  shade  of 
greenish-blue. 

r.  Navy,  admiral.  Dye  with  Indigotine,  Victoria 
Blue,  and  Navy  Blue  of  best  quality.  Besides  these 
coloring  matters,  final  shading  may  also  be  effected 
with  Acid  Violet  and  Acid  Fuchsine.  Acidity  and 
heat  of  the  bath  as  usual. 

s.  Russe.  Dye  in  a  bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric 
acid  with  Azo  Yellow  and  Acid  Green.  Shade  with 
Brilliant  Blue,  greenish,  eventually  also  with  Navy 
Blue,  and,  to  give  the  tone  some  warmth,  also  with 
Orange.    Heat  to  200°  F. 

/.  Gray-blue  colors.  Water-soluble  Aniline  Pale  Blue, 
with  Gray,  extra  su])crfine,  in  a  bath  acidulated  \\ith 
sulphuric  acid.  Shade,  according  to  sample,  with 
Acid  Violet,  Brilliant  Blue.    Acidity  and  heat  as  usual. 

u.  Green-blue  colors.  Pale  Blue,  Acid  Green.  Shade, 
according  to  sample,  with  Azo  Yellow,  Brilliant  Blue 
or  Victoria  Blue,  also  Orange.  Acidity  and  heat  of 
bath  as  usual. 

V.  Maroon  loutre.  Dye  in  the  ordinar}'  bath  with 
Orange  and  Pens(^  Lake.  Shade  with  Azo  Yellow 
Acid  BrowTi  and  Indigotine  as  well  as  Na\'y  Blue. 

Ranarks.  From  d  on,  the  bath,  if  not  other^^•ise 
mentioned,  is  always  acidulated  wnth  sulphuric  and 
tartaric  acids,  so  that  a  slight  excess  of  them  can  be 
detected  by  the  taste.     The  temperature  of  the  bath 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  261 

is  at  first  kept  at  145°  F.,  and  in  the  dyeing  increased 
to  200°  F. 

8.  Ombre  (shaded)  tri-colored.  Dye  the  feathers  the 
palest  color  of  the  sample,  which  is  generally  on  the 
point.  Then,  for  the  reception  of  the  second  color 
of  the  sample,  stretch  the  feathers  in  a  frame,  which  is 
effected  as  follows : 

Take  two  strips  and  place  them  across  the  shading- 
box  described  below,  so  that  they  project  about  2 
inches  on  each  side.  The  strips  may  be  either  of  wood 
iJ4  inch  thick,  or  of  stout  sheet  copper.  One  of  each 
pair  of  strips  is  provided  near  each  end  and  in  the  cen- 
ter with  copper  screws  which  accurately  fit  into  holes 
in  the  other  strip.  Cover  the  strip  provided  with 
screws  with  a  rubber  strip  of  the  same  size,  and  upon 
the  latter  place  feathers  alongside  one  another  up  to 
the  end  screws.  Now  place  upon  them  another  rubber 
strip  of  the  same  size  as  the  first,  and  fit  the  other 
copper  strip  upon  the  screws.  Then  screw  both  strips 
together  by  means  of  strong  nuts,  so  that  the  inter- 
mediate space  not  occupied  by  feathers  is  filled  up 
with  rubber. 

The  entire  lot  being  thus  stretched  in  strips,  the 
feathers  are  taken  to  the  shading-box,  which  consists 
of  a  rectangular  copper  box  about  253^  inches  long, 
ig}4  inches  wide,  and  3^^  inches  deep.  It  is  placed 
in  an  exactly  horizontal  position  over  the  fire,  or  a 
steam-pipe  is  introduced.  The  box  is  filled  about 
one-quarter  full  with  water,  which  is  acidulated,  and 
the  required  coloring  matter  for  the  second  color  to 
be    dyed    is    then    added.      When     the    dyebath    has 


262      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

acquired  the  required  temperature,  place  the  strips 
wnth  the  feathers  across  the  box,  so  that  the  feathers 
are  about  three-quarters  covered  by  the  dycbath. 
Now  dye  at  200°  F.,  occasionally  shaking  the  strips 
with  feathers,  so  that  the  coloring  matter  may  pene- 
trate as  uniformly  as  possible,  and  the  boundar>' 
between  the  two  colors  be  not  too  sharply  defined. 

When  the  second  color  has  been  dyed  according  to 
sample,  the  strips  are  unscrewed  and  the  feathers 
shifted.  This  is  effected  by  drawing  them  uniformly 
forward,  so  that,  with  the  shading-box  filled  to  about 
the  same  depth,  the  darkest  (third)  color  can  be  ap- 
plied to  full  one-half  the  length  of  the  feather.  The 
strips  being  again  screwed  together,  are  replaced 
upon  the  shading-box,  the  latter  now  containing  the 
darker  dyebath. 

It  may  here  be  remarked  that  for  oinbri^,  as  well  as 
hordi,  indigo  prej^arations,  sucli  as  Indigotine,  should 
be  avoided  as  much  as  possible,  they  possessing  the 
property  of  ver^'  readily  running  into  the  neighboring 
pale  color,  and  thus  giving  a  bad  api^earance  to  the 
boundary.  Hence,  for  dark  colors  it  is  best  to  use 
Navy  Blue,  Violet  6B,  Gray,  Acid  Green,  Nigrosine,  etc. 

The  last  color  having  been  dycxl.  a  wide  vessel  is 
prei)ared  for  rinsing.  The  bath  should  be  slightly 
acidulated  and  the  feathers,  stretched  in  the  frame, 
rinsed  as  far  as  they  project  from  the  latter.  The 
object  of  this  is  to  remove  any  loosely  adhering  dark 
coloring  matter  before  the  feathers  are  removed  from 
between  the  strips,  otherwise  there  might  be  danger 
of  the  ])ale  colors  of  one  feather  coming  in  contact 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  263 

with  the  dark  color  of  another.  The  feathers  are  finally 
taken  from  between  the  strips  and  thrown  into  an 
acidulated  rinsing  bath.  When  rinsed  they  are  taken 
out,  care  being  taken  that  the  colors  of  the  same  shade 
lie  alongside  one  another.  The  feathers  are  then 
immediately  strung  together,  swung  to  and  fro,  and 
dried. 

g.  Borde  {bordered  feathers),  a.  Light  mirror,  dark 
border.  The  cleaned  naturally  white  or  decolorized 
feathers  are  dyed  in  accordance  with  the  light  mirror 
of  the  sample.  Three  to  five  of  them  are  then  placed 
one  upon  the  other  upon  a  narrow,  four-cornered  stick, 
so  that  the  quills  cover  one  another,  and  the  latter 
are  firmly  tied  in  three  places  to  the  stick  with  twine. 
When  the  feathers  are  spread  out,  their  points  and 
side  branches  then  hang  down.  Now  bring  hot  water 
into  a  suitable  shallow  dish,  or,  for  larger  lots,  into 
the  shading-box,  acidulate,  and  add  the  coloring  matter 
required  for  the  dark  border.  Then  place  the  stick, 
to  which  the'  feathers  are  secured,  over  the  vessel, 
so  that  the  feathers  dip  in  the  dyebath  as  far  as 
the  border  is  to  extend.  After  dyeing  at  200°  F., 
take  the  feathers  out,  rinse  in  an  acidulated  water 
bath,  draw  through  starch  water,  swing  to  and  fro, 
and  dry. 

b.  Dark  mirror,  light  border.  Dye  the  feathers  in 
accordance  with  the  light  border  of  the  sample,  and 
dry  without  starching.  Then  firmiy  tie  several  thick- 
nesses of  paper  around  the  border.  The  feathers 
thus  protected  are  then  dyed  in  the  ordinary  manner 
in  accordance  with  the  dark  mirror  of  the  sample. 


264   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

The  operation  must  be  performed  as  rapidly  as  pos- 
sible to  prevent  the  protecting  cover  of  the  border 
from  soaking  through  and  thus  spoiling  the  latter. 
Then  rinse  in  a  clean  water  Ijath.  next  in  one  acidu- 
lated vs-ith  sulphuric  acid.  and.  after  removing  the 
paper,  rinse  once  more.  The  feathers  are  then  strung 
together,  drawm  through  starch  water,  passed  through 
the  extractor,  and  dried. 

Another  method  of  protecting  the  first  color  in 
the  second  dyebath  is  as  follows:  Take  a  copper 
plate,  similar  to  those  used  in  shading,  but  some- 
what shorter  and  \\-ider.  and  pro\-ided  only  on  each 
end  with  a  screw,  which  should,  however,  be  about 
4  inches  long.  Several  other  copper  plates  of  the 
same  size  as  the  one  above  described  are  required. 
They  are,  however,  only  furnished  with  holes  in 
which  the  screws  of  the  first  plate  accurately  fit. 

Now  place  the  feathers,  spread  out  between  two 
rubber  plates  of  equal  size,  and  the  shajje  of  the  portion 
of  the  feather  to  be  protected,  upon  the  first  copper 
plate,  lay  ujxin  it  another  plate,  then  a  feather  between 
rubber  plates,  upon  this  another  copper  plate,  and  so  on, 
aJtemately,  as  many  feathers  between  rubber  plates 
and  copper  plates  as  the  lengths  of  the  scre^^'s  will 
permit.  Now  screw  the  whole  together  with  strong 
nuts  and  dye  in  accordance  with  the  dark  mirror  of 
the  sample.  After  dyeing,  rinse,  and  in  the  second 
rinsing  water,  which  should  be  acidulated,  take  the 
feathers  from  between  the  ]ilates.  The  feathers  are 
then  strung  together,  dra\\ni  through  starch  water, 
passed  through  the  extractor,  and  dried. 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  265 

It  is  advisable  first  to  soak  the  rubber  plates  in  hot 
water  so  that  they  become  quite  soft. 

The  above-mentioned  method  has  the  advantage 
that  the  feathers  can  be  protected  wherever  desired, 
and  by  the  use  of  properly  shaped  rubber  plates  any 
required  design  may  be  produced.  Another  method 
of  producing  contrasting  colors,  however,  without 
special  design  is  as  follows :  Firmly  wrap  twine  around 
the  feathers  so  as  to  leave  a  few  places  free,  and  dye. 
The  places  protected  by  the  twine  will  remain  color- 
less, or  retain  the  color  previously  applied,  while  the 
places  left  free  will  show  the  new  color.  By  now  free- 
ing about  one-half  of  the  protected  portion  from 
twine,  and  partially  covering  the  previously  applied 
color,  and  again  dyeing,  four  different  colors  will  be 
obtained.  By  thus  continuing  the  manipulation,  and 
carefully  choosing  the  tones  so  that  the  colors  along- 
side one  another  contrast,  feathers  showing  all  possible 
tones  may  be  obtained. 

Feathers  may  also  be  dyed  in  graduating  shades, 
beginning  at  one  end  with  a  very  pale  shade  and 
finishing  in  a  dark  shade  of  the  same  color,  as  fol- 
lows: Prepare  a  weak  dyebath  and  dye  the  whole 
feather  a  pale  shade.  The  bath  is  then  slightly  strength- 
ened and  three-quarters  of  the  length  01  the  feather 
is  dipped  in  it,  and  so  on,  gradually  strengthening 
the  bath  and  then  Immersing  less  of  the  feather,  until 
only  the  end  is  dyed  in  the  last  bath.  The  same  effect 
may  be  produced  by  the  following  method:  Make  up 
the  bath  sufficiently  concen traced  to  dye  the  dark 
shade  on  the  end  of  the  feather,  and  reduce  the  strength 


266      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

in  stages  by  diluting  \\nth  water  and  immersing  more 
and  more  of  the  feather. 


DYEING    FANCY    FEATHERS. 

I.  Cleaning.  With  the  exception  of  ostrich  feath- 
ers, the  term  fancy  feathers  is  applied  to  all  kinds 
of  feathers  used  in  the  manufacture  of  ornamental 
feathers,  hence  including  those  from  nearly  all  kinds 
of  birds.  There  being  considerable  difference  In  the 
content  of  fat,  various  methods  of  cleaning  have 
to  be  employed.  The  treatment  in  dyeing  also 
varies  somewhat,  since  the  feathers  of  many  birds 
show  a  different  behavior  towards  the  coloring 
matters. 

Chicken  feathers  containing  no  fat  need  not  lx» 
washed,  at  least,  not  for  dark  colors;  they  only  re- 
quire, before  dyeing,  to  be  thoroughly  moistened  in 
a  hot-water  bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid.  Haw- 
ever,  it  is  recommended  to  once  or  t\\nce  wash  all 
feathers  which  are  to  show  luster,  in  a  bath  of  castile 
soap. 

On  account  of  their  content  of  dirt,  most  fancy 
feathers  require  thorough  washing,  which  is  effected 
as  follows: 

For  1 1  lbs.  of  feathers  prepare  a  bath  at  ioo°  F..  to 
which  add  26>^  ozs.  of  good  white  soap,  thoroughly 
dissolved.  Stir  the  feathers  in  this  bath  for  alx)ut 
lo  minutes,  and  then  let  them  stand,  well  covered  by 
the  bath,  for  about  one  hour.  Then,  after  stirring  a 
little  more,  bring  them  into  a  sieve. 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS,  267 

Now  prepare  a  fresh  bath  of  the  same  temperature, 
to  which  3  lbs.  of  castile  soap,  well  dissolved,  have  been 
added.  Handle  the  feathers  well  in  this  bath  and  then 
let  them  stand  for  one  hour,  after  which  they  are  again 
thoroughly  handled  and  brought  into  a  sieve.  They 
are  then  passed  in  succession  through  two  baths  of 
100°  F.,  to  each  of  which  has  been  added  i  lb.  of  soda, 
well  dissolved.'  They  are  handled  10  minutes  in  each 
bath.  They  are  then  rinsed  in  two  cold-water  baths, 
next  in  one  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid,  and  again 
rinsed  in  clear  water,  when  they  are  ready  for  d}^eing. 
Skins,  heads,  wnngs,  etc.,  must  be  more  rapidly  handled, 
and  are  not  worked  in  the  soda-baths,  as  the  fleshy 
sinews  and  skin  would  be  dissolved.  They  are  washed 
for  a  time  in  a  good  soap-bath,  rinsed  in  warm  water, 
and  then  in  water  slightly  acidulated.  White  skins, 
wings,  etc.,  intended  for  light  colors,  are  washed  in 
two  quite  concentrated  soap-baths,  then  in  two  very 
warm  water-baths,  rinsed  first  in  slightly  acidulated, 
and  finally  in  cold,  water. 

2.  Decolorising.  Decoloration  is  made  use  of  only 
for  wdngs  and  bird  skins,  and  for  some  larger,  more 
valuable  varieties  of  feathers.  The  process  is  the 
same  as  given  for  ostrich  feathers,  which  see. 

3.  Degreasing.  The  process  is  the  same  as  given 
for  ostrich  feathers,  but  is  of  greater  importance  here, 
it  frequently  being  the  initial  and  final  operations, 
after  which  the  articles  are  ready  for  the'  manufac- 
tiirer.  The  bath  is  used  according  to  the  various 
natural  designs  of  the  skins,  wings,  and  feathers,  the 
result   always   being  an  agreeable  tone.     The  white 


268      DRY   CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

mixed  ^\•ith  the  natural  desij;n  usvially  suffers  some- 
what from  the  chromate  of  potassium,  but  is  restored 
by  the  subsequent  saccharic  acid  bath. 

4.  White.  White  fancy  feathers  are  brou>,'ln  into 
a  bath  of  100  F.,  which,  for  ever}'  10  lbs.  of  feathers, 
contains  2  lbs.  of  dissolved  castile  soap.  The  feathers 
are  thoroughly  handled  for  one-quarter  of  an  hour, 
and  then  taken  out.  They  arc  next  brought  into  a 
fresh  bath  of  the  same  temperature,  but  containing 
3  lbs.  of  castile  soap  in  solution,  where  they  remain 
for  one  hour,  being  from  time  to  time  thoroughly 
handled.  They  are  then  taken  out  and,  to  remove  the 
soap,  are  worked  through  two  baths  of  100°  F.,  each 
containing  i  lb.  of  soda.  They  are  then  twice  rinsed 
in  cold  water. 

They  are  next  brought  into  a  warm  water-bath  to 
which  3  lbs.  of  peroxide  of  hydrogen  have  been  added. 
In  this  bath  the  feathers  remain  tor  one  hour,  when 
they  are  taken  out  and  brought  into  a  bath  of  120°  F., 
to  which  I  lb.  of  potassium  bisulphide  has  been  added. 
They  remain  in  this  bath  for  one  hour,  when  they  are 
brought  into  a  fresh  warm  bath  acidulated  with  sul- 
])huric  acid.  They  are  then  rinsed  in  a  cold  l)ath  and 
next  blued,  according  to  samjile,  in  a  bath  to  which 
best  Aniline  Violet  6B,  dissolved  in  alcohol,  has  been 
added.  They  are  then  ]5assed  through  the  extractor 
and  dried. 

Pale  Blue,  Navy  Blue,  or  a  redder  number  of  Violet 
may  also  be  used  for  bluing.  The  reddish  tinge  of  the 
l^lue  depends  on  the  white;  the  yellower  the  latter,  the 
redder  the  blue  must  be.     The  blue  must  be  dissolved 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  269 

in  alcohol,  since,  if  dissolved  in  water,  small  blue  spots, 
are  formed  in  cold  bluing. 

5.  Dyeing  black,  a.  Chicken  feathers,  turkey  fea- 
thers, pigeon  feathers,  goose  and  duck  feathers.  This 
class  of  feathers  is  dyed  to  advantage  with  the  acid 
colors,  using  from  15  to  20  per  cent,  of  Acid  Black, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  dye.  Different  grades 
of  Acid  Blacks  are  sold  under  the  name  of  Feather 
Blacks.  Dye  the  feathers  at  the  boil  with  the  addition 
of  from  2  to  8  per  cent,  of  sulphuric  acid,  168°  Tw., 
and  from  10  to  20  per  cent,  of  Glauber's  salt  crystals, 
according  to  the  depth  of  the  shade  desired.  The 
dyeing  must  be  continued  until  the  bath  is  exhausted, 
and  the  shades  are  sufficiently  level,  i.  e.,  the  feathers 
will  have  to  be  boiled  in  the  dyebath  about  one  hour^ 
When  the  feathers  are  dyed,  rinse  them  well,  dry  in  the 
tumbler  or  the  dr}Toom,  and  steam  if  necessary.  Be- 
fore commencing  the  dyeing  operation  the  feathers 
should  be  well  cleaned.  For  this  purpose  it  is  advisable 
to  use  a  weak,  lukewarm  solution  of  olive  oil  soap,  to 
which  a  small  amount  of  ammonia  has  been  added. 
Some  Tetrapol  may  also  be  added  to  the  solution.  After 
cleaning  the  feathers,  rinse  them  well  and  dye  as  de- 
scribed above. 

b.  Peacock  feathers.  The  treatment  is  the  same  as; 
for  ostrich  feathers,  but  the  feathers  must  be  freedl 
from  their  natural  bronze  by  treating  them  according 
to  the  directions  given  under  "Dyeing  ostrich  fea- 
thers, 3." 

c.  Parrot  feathers.  Treat,  the  same  as  given  for 
turkey  feathers,  but  first  remove  the  natural  bronze,. 


270      DRY   CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

acxx)rding  to  the  directions  given  under  3.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  baths  should  not  exceed  167°  F. 

d.  Skins  of  kingfishers  and  magpies.  Treat  the  skins 
in  a  concentrated  bath  of  good  white  soap  and  then 
rinse  in  several  warm  waters.  They  are  then  placed 
for  one  hour  in  a  strong  chlorine  bath  of  100°  F..  pre- 
pared according  to  directions  given  under  "  Dyeing 
ostrich  feathers,  5."  They  are  then  rinsed  twice  in 
cold  water  and  next  brought  into  a  strong  logwood 
bath  of  100°  F..  where  thev  remain  for  two  hours. 
Then,  without  rinsing,  they  are  pla»?ed  for  half  an  hour 
in  a  bath  of  medium-strong  potash  solution  heated  to 
100°  F.  Next  rinse  thoroughly  and  return  them  to  the 
log\vood  bath  for  one  hour.  Then  rinse  thoroughly. 
draw  them  through  a  good  soap-bath,  rinse  again,  and 
finally  treat  \\'ith  chlorine. 

€.  All  kinds  of  birds'  wings,  skins,  heads,  attd  tails. 
Welsh  according  to  directions  given  under  cleaning. 
Dye  as  given  under  5,  but  the  temperature  of  the  bath 
should  not  exceed  167°  F. 

6.  Chnbre.  The  same  directions  as  given  for  ostrich 
feathers  also  apply  here,  but  for  fancy  feathers  two 
colors  are,  as  a  rule,  only  demanded.  As  regards  the 
variation  in  the  treatment  of  fancy  articles  from  ostrich 
feathers,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  section,  "Treat- 
ment in  General." 

7.  Changcant.  Parrots,  as  well  as  other  birds  and 
■wings,  are  decolorized  according  to  directions  given 
undier  "Dyeing  ostrich  feathers,  2."  They  acquire  a 
beautiful  changcant  if  dyei  cream-color  (see  ostrich 
feathers,  7).  and  dried  at  rest.    Next  ])rci^re  a  neutral 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  271 

bath  of  122°  F.,  Nvith  very  little  Eosine,  and  in  this  bath 
handle  the  cream-color  dyed  wings,  etc.,  without  previ- 
ous wetting,  for  a  short  time.  The  dry  articles  become 
only  partially  wet  in  the  Eosine  bath,  the  wetted  por- 
tions acquiring  a  salmon  color,  while  those  not  wetted 
remain  cream-color.  • 

A  beautiful  contrast  is  also  obtained  with  decolor- 
ized lark  wings,  as  well  as  other  wings,  etc.,  which 
have  been  dyed  Acid  Orange,  and  dried.  By  drawing 
such  articles  through  a  solution  of  Brilliant  Green, 
the  wetted  portions  acquire  an  olive  color,  while  the 
non-wetted  portions  remain  Acid  Orange. 

Drying.  The  difference  in  the  construction  of  ostrich 
and  fancy  feathers  necessitates  different  methods  of 
drying. 

Ostrich  feathers,  after  dyeing,  are  passed  through 
a  small  bath  of  cold  water,  to  which  a  considerable 
quantity  of  raw  starch  has  been  added,  two  handfuls 
of  starch  being  taken  for  3  quarts  of  water  and  i  lb. 
of  feathers.  The  feathers  after  being  thoroughly 
rubbed  in  this  starch  water  are  squeezed  out  and 
passed  through  the  extractor.  The  separate  bunches 
after  being  somewhat  beaten  are  hung  over  a  line. 
A  special  frame  in  the  form  of  a  very  broad  ladder, 
secured  by  long  ropes  to  the  ceiling,  is  also  used  for 
this  purpose.  In  summer  the  feathers  may  be  dried 
in  the  open  air,  otherwise  a  special  room  which  can 
be  heated  to  122°  F.  is  required.  In  the  open  air  they 
are  allowed  to  hang  quiptly,  it  being  only  necessary 
to  beat  them  occasionally  either  between  the  hands 
or  over  the  edge  of  a  table.     But  when  drying  in  a 


Z-J2.      DKV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

room  with  no  natural  motion  of  the  air.  the  latter  must 
be  artificially  produced.  This  is  efTccted  by  t\-inK  the 
lines  upon  which  the  feathers  are  hun^  somewhat  slack 
and  sunning  them,  or  the  above-mentioned  frame, 
to  and  fro,  occasionally  beating  or  shaking  the  feathers, 
which  may  finally  be  hung  up  in  \Tarm  air  for  one  day. 

When  a  large  number  of  feathers  are  to  be  handled 
a  machine,  especially  constructed  for  the  purpose,  can 
be  used  for  working  the  dr\-  starch  into  the  wet  fea- 
thers, and  another  machine  is  employed  for  drying 
off  the  feathers  and  shaking  out  the  starch.  The 
latter  machine  consists  of  a  woven-wire  cage  which 
oscillates  in  a  current  of  hot  air,  the  starch  being  col- 
lected in  a  receptacle  at  the  bottom.  The  ordinary- 
drying  tumbler  may  also  be  used  for  drying  purposes. 
When  dr\-ing  loose  feathers,  wire  screen  is  inserted 
around  the  inside  of  the  cylinder.  This  prevents  loss 
of  feathers  and  facilitates  cleaning  of  the  machine. 
Feathers  that  are  dried  in  the  tumbler  \\'ithout  the 
aid  of  heat  present  a  much  better  appearance  than  when 
heat  is  used. 

Feathers  are  curled  in  the  following  manner:  They 
are  first  steamed  to  soften  them,  this  being  done  with 
steam  as  free  from  water  as  jjossible.  which  can  be 
secured  by  having  a  fairly  cai)acious  kettle  built  \\\\h 
the  spout  passing  out  of  the  top  \v\l\\  a  broad  base, 
the  kettle  not  being  more  than  half-full,  and  the  spout 
placed  upon  the  top,  so  that  the  steam  is  as  dr\'  as  it 
is  possible  to  get  it.  The  curling  is  effected  by  drawing 
the  flues  of  the  feather  over  the  back  of  the  knife, 
which   has  a  cur\'ed  blade,  and  the  curl  is  fixed  by 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  273 

drying  the  feather  before  a  fire.    A  little  practice  will 
soon  make  a  proficient  curler. 

A  special  tool,  Figs.  23  and  24,  has  been  patented. 
It  is  formed  from  sheet -metal  and  mounted  in  a  haft. 
The  upper  end  of  it  is  cur\^ed  upward,  and  has  a  blunt 
edge,  and  is  concave  to  accommodate  the  ball  of  the 

^      i 

,  ....    it 


Fig.  23. 


thumb.  By  gripping  the  haft  the  lateral  projection 
naturally  comes  into  line  with  the  top  point  of  the 
thumb,  and  by  placing  the  feather  fronds  in  the  posi- 
tion against  the  edge  and  stroking  upwards  in  the  usual 
way,  an  even  and  regular  curl  is  imparted  to  the  edges 
of  the  feather,  mthout  risk  of  snapping  or  breaking. 
Moreover,  as  the  thumb  pressure  is  practically  even 
at  all  parts  of  the  knife  edge,  the  operation  of  curling 
is  hastened,  and  many  fronds  can  be  so  treated  at* 
once.    Fig.  23  is  a  perspective  \'iew  of  the  tool,  and  Fig. 


274      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

24  an  end  view.  •  The  knife  shank  i  is  secured  in  the 
haft  2,  the  shank  i  is  formed  ^^^th  a  lateral  and  ex- 
tension 3,  that  terminates  in  a  blade  4,  formed  with  a 
concave  edge  5  to  accommodate  the  cun'e  of  the  ball 
of  the  thumb,  and  slightly  sharpened  on  its  upper 
side.  The  blade  extension  3  is  cur\'ed  au-ay  from  the 
shank  i,  as  sho\\Ti  in  Fig.  24.  until  the  edge  5  is  approxi- 
mately at  right  angles  to  the  plane  of  the  shank,  and  is 
thereby  brought  into  line  with  the  natural  posture 
of  the  thumb  ball  when  the  haft  is  held  in  the  hand. 

In  operation  the  haft  is  grasped  by  the  operator, 
who  with  the  free  hand  passes  the  fealher  fronds  to 
be  curled  between  the  blade  edge  5,  and  the  thumb, 
the  blade  being  gently  dra\\'n  from  the  quill  to  the 
extremity  of  the  frond.  This  operation  is  repeated 
until  the  desired  state  of  curliness  is  obtained.  In 
practice  several  fronds  can  be  curled  at  a  time  quite 
as  efficiently  as  a  single  frond,  and  there  is  no  risk 
of  cutting  or  breaking  the  feather. 

Articles  of  fancy  feathers  should  not  be  drawn 
through  starch-water,  but  after  rinsing  be  passed 
through  an  extractor. 


VII. 


CLEANING    AND    RENOVATING    FELT,    STRAW,    AND 
PANAMA    hats;      BLEACHING    AND    DYEING 

STRAW   AND    STRAW    HATS. 

* 

Most  of  the  processes  and  formulas  here  given  for 
cleaning  and  renovating  felt  and  straw  hats  have 
been  contributed  by  Mr.  Nicholas  J.  Mergen,  an  ex- 
pert cleaner,  who  has  been  successfully  engaged  in  the 
business  for  many  years.  These  processes  and  formulas 
will  no  doubt  prove  of  great  value  and  assistance  to  those 
engaged  in  this  branch  of  the  cleaning  business.  The 
instructions  for  executing  the  various  operations  are 
concise,  readily  understood  by  any  one,  and  are  thor- 
oughly reliable. 

Tools.  The  tools  required  consist  of:  i  Set  Board; 
I  Set  Round  Derby  Blocks,  5  inches  deep;  i  Set  Flat 
Top  Soft  Hat  Blocks,  sH  inches  deep;  i  Set  Telescope 
Blocks,  3^  inches  deep;  3  Flanges,  3-inch  brim,  sizes 
6}i,  7,  and  7>^;  3  Pocket  Flanges,  sizes  6)4,  7,  and  -j}^; 
I  Flat  Tolliker,  wood;  i  Foot  Tolliker,  wood;  i  Com- 
bination Dorse}^  and  Round  Shackle;  3  Band  Blocks, 
sizes  6^,  7,  and  7^^. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  get  a  full  set  of  flanges  of 
each  shape,  as  with  a  little  judgment  you  can  make 
(275) 


276      DRV    CLEANER,    SCOl  RF.R.    GARMENT    DYER. 

three  of  each  shaije  do  the  work  of  a  full  set.  The 
:<aTnn  rule  applies  to  blocks;  for  instance,  two  sizes.  6^ 
and  7,  of  telescope  blocks  are  cnouj^h  for  general  use. 


Fi^'.   25. 


Tools  and  other  supplies  ma\-  be  had  from  Messrs. 
Roberts,  Cushman  &  Co.,  Xew  York,  a  leadinj^  hatters' 
supply  house. 

Fij,'s.  25  to  41  show  some  of  the  tools  that  are  manu- 


Fig.  20. 


CLEANING    AND    RENOVATING. 


277 


factured  and  supplied  by  the  above-mentioned  firm. 
Fig.   25   represents  an  electric  clutch  attached  to  a 


Fig.  27. 

motor.  It  is  used  for  cleaning  derbys,  and  soft  and 
straw  hats,  and  by  renovators  for  drying  straw  hats, 
it  being  almost  indispensable  for  this   purpose  especially 


Fig.  28. 

when  working  on  a  large  scale,  when  quick  drying  is 
required. 

Fig.  26  shows  a  block  for  a  round-crown  soft  hat, 
5^4  inches   deep;   Fig.    27   a   block   for  a   soft   hat   5 


278   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARM 

inches  deep;    and  Fig.  28  a  block  for  a  square-cro\\'n 
Panama  hat. 


Fig.  29. 

Fip[.  29  shows  a  flange,  brim  2%  inches,  and  Fig. 
30  a  flange  for  a  Panama  hat,  brim  3  inches. 
Fig.  31  is  a  flange  stand. 


Fig.  30. 


Fig.  32  is  a  curling  board,  and  Fig.  ^^  a  combina- 
tion curling  shackle  making  a  variety  of  w-idths  and 
styles  of  curls. 


Fiu.  M. 


CLEANING    AND    RENOVATING. 


279 


Fie 


32. 


Fig.  34  shows  a  tolliker  with  nickel  or  brass  head. 
Tollikers  are  also  made  of  boxwood,  all  brass,  and 
all  iron.     Fig.  35  is  a  heart-shaped  tolliker. 
Fig.  36  represents  a  spring  rounding  jack. 


Fig.  35- 


Fig.  34- 


Fig.  35- 


2So      DRV    CI.HANER.    SCOURER,    GARMKNT    DYER. 


Fig.  40. 


CLEANING    AND    RENOVATING.  28 1 

Fig.  37  shows  a  spinner;  Fig.  38  a  band  block; 
Fig.  39  a  set  stick;  Fig.  40  a  wooden  stretch  block, 
and  Fig.  41  hatters'  irons. 


Fig.  41. 

Cleaning  felt  hats. — Dry  the  hat  and  brush  thoroughly 
to  remove  all  dust,  then  soak  it  in  a  pan  of  gasoline  or 
benzine  for  a  few  moments,  next  scrub  it  thoroughly 
with  a  stiff  brush  dipped  in  a  benzine  soap  solution, 
and  then  hang  it  out  in  the  air  to  dry.  If  the  gasoline 
or  benzine  becomes  very  dirty,  it  is  advisable  to  rinse 
the  hat  in  clean  gasoline  or  benzine.  Aftet  drying,  the 
hat  is  ready  for  blocking.  If  the  hat  is  faded  it  should 
be  pounced  with  No.  00  pouncing  paper  to  remove  all 
the  faded  parts  and  rain  spots.  Great  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  pounce  too  deep,  as  otherwise  you  will 
bring  out  dark  spots,  or,  in  other  words,  the  body  of 
the  hat.  The  proper  way  of  pouncing  will  be  de- 
scribed later  on. 

Some  cleaners  still  advocate  the  older  method  of 
cleaning  hats  with  pipe-clay,  it  being  claimed  that 
by  this  means  the  dirt  and  grease  are  thoroughly  re- 
moved without  in  the  least  affecting  the  fiber  and 
stiffening  of  the  hat.  The  process  is  as  follows: 
Cover  the  entire  hat  with  a  paste  of  pipe-clay  softened 


282   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER, 

in  water,  and  allow  it  to  dn'  near  a  stove  or  in  a  dn-- 
injj  chamber,  the  temj^erature  of  which,  however, 
should  not  exceed  122  F.  Dark  spots  noticed  after 
dr^nng  indicate  that  the  grease  beneath  them  has  not 
been  entirely  extracted.  Cover  such  s]X)ts  again  with 
pipe-clay  ])aste.  allow  to  dr>'  and,  if  required,  reix?at 
the  operation  several  times.  The  hats  are  then  placed 
in  cold  water  for  about  1 2  hours  and  thoroughly  washed, 
when  they  are  ready  for  further  treatment. 

Blocking  soft  or  stiff  hats.  Put  the  hat  firmly  on  the 
block,  have  convenient  an  iron  tea-kettle  about  half 
full  of  water  kcjjt  boiling  to  make  steam.  Hold  the 
hat  over  the  steam  until  it  becomes  soft  and  i)liable, 
which  will  require  about  two  minutes.  Then  work 
the  hat  down  on  the  block  until  you  have  it  smooth 
and  in  the  desired  shape.  Repeat  steaming,  if  neces- 
sary', let  tiie  hat  cool  off  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then 
remove  it  from  the  block.  The  hat  is  now  ready  for 
setting  and  shaping  the  brim,  which  is  done  on  the 
set  board  or  f.ange,  according  to  the  shape  desired. 

Long-naj)  felt  hats,  including  beavers,  velours,  etc., 
are  cleaned  in  the  same  general  manner  as  outlined 
above,  \\'ith  the  exception  that  the  pouncing  o}x?ration. 
which  would  remove  the  naj),  is  omitted.  If  the  French- 
chalk  method  of  cleaning  is  used,  the  chalk  should  be 
rinsed  out  with  benzine.  \Miite  beaver  hats  are  dusted 
with  talcum  after  being  cleaned  and  dried,  the  excess 
of  talcum  being  brushed  out. 

It  sometimes  is  necessar\'  to  size  a  felt  hat.  A 
sizing  use<l  by  manufacturers  is  made  as  follows:  4 
ozs.  of  shellac  and  4  ozs.  of  borax  are  dissolved  in 


CLEANING   AND    RENOVATING.  283 

I  gallon  of  boiling  water.  After  boiling  for  some  time 
the  mixture  is  cooled  off  and  the  scum  and  sediment 
removed.  The  remaining  clear  liquid  is  used  for  siz- 
ing purposes.  The  hat  either  may  be  immersed  in  the 
liquid  or  the  size  may  be  applied  lightly  with  a  brush. 

Derby  hats,  as  a  rule,  are  cleaned  by  brushing  them 
vtnth  clear  benzine  or  with  a  solution  of  benzine  soap. 
When  clean  they  are  rinsed,  dried,  and  finished.  If 
rain  spots  remain  a  steaming  will  be  necessary  to  re- 
move them.  It  is  very  seldom  necessary  to  resize 
derby  hats,  but  occasionally  one  will  be  received  that 
must  undergo  this  treatment.  A  sizing  for  these  hats 
may  be  prepared  from  shellac  dissolved  in  alcohol. 
The  hat  is  immersed  in  the  solution  and  passed  through 
a  soda-bath. 

Setting  soft  or  stiff  hats.  Steam  the  brim  of  the 
hat  until  it  becomes  soft  and  pliable  enough  to  work, 
then  put  it  on  the  set  board  and  set  the  brim  accord- 
ing to  the  height  desired.  Work  the  brim  against 
the  set  board  with  the  thiimbs,  until  it  becomes  cool 
and  set,  which  will  require  about  a  minute  or  two; 
then  proceed  with  the  other  side  of  the  brim  in  the 
same  manner. 

Curling  soft  and  stiff  hats.  Have  the  ciirling  shackle 
hot,  using  your  own  judgment  as  to  the  amount  of 
heat  required,  according  to  the  hat  to  be  curled. 
Wet  both  the  upper  and  under  edge  of  the  brim  ac- 
cording to  the  depth  of  the  curl  required.  Take  the 
shackle  in  the  right  hand  and  work  to  the  left,  starting 
in  the  center  of  the  front  and  working  to  the  center 
of  the  back  of  the  hat.     For  stiff  hats  run  the  back 


284   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

of  the  shackle  a  few  times  over  the  brim  after  it  has 
been  wetted,  to  soften  the  brim;  then  proceed  as 
above.  If  the  curl  is  to  be  smaller  in  the  front  and 
rear,  run  the  shackle  outward;  then  use  the  front 
and  rear  toUiker — the  one  ^^^th  the  groove — to  work 
down  the  edge  of  the  curl.  The  hat  is  now  ready  for 
setting  on  the  set  board. 

Pouncing  or  finishing  a  soft  or  stif  hat.  Cut  a 
sheet  of  pouncing  paper  into  four  parts.  Take  the 
paper  in  your  right  hand,  one  comer  of  it  between 
the  thumb  and  forefinger,  and  the  other  comer  l)e- 
tween  the  third  and  fourth  fingers.  Have  the  hat 
firmly  on  the  block,  and  rub  to  the  right,  taking 
great  care  not  to  pounce  too  deep.  Take  off  as  much 
fur  as  you  desire,  but  take  it  off  evenly;  then  block 
the  hat,  and  finish  off  with  a  hat-luering  j^ad.  Polish 
to  the  right. 

Lucring  or  polishing  soft  and  stiff  hats.  Have  a 
pad  made  of  light  canvas,  about  3/2x6  inches,  and 
cut  a  slit  in  the  end  for  the  index  finger.  It  is  l)est 
to  have  two  pads,  one  for  light,  and  one  for  dark, 
colors.  For  dark  colors,  use  crude  oil;  for  light  colors, 
cocoanut  oil. 

Rub  the  oil  into  the  pad  and  heat  it  on  a  plate  of 
iron  placed  on  a  gas  or  a)al  stove.  Take  the  hat 
(on  the  block)  In  the  left  hand,  and  work  from  right 
to  left,  starting  in  the  center  of  the  crown.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  have  the  pad  too  oily,  or  you 
will  get  a  ver\'  greasy-looking  i)olish.  In  lucring  the 
brim  also  work  from  right  to  left. 

Flanging  soft  or  Panama  hats.     Set  the  hat  in  the 


CLEANING    AND    RENOVATING.  285 

flange  of  the  desired  shape,  place  the  band  block  in 
the  hat  to  hold  it  firmly  to  the  flange,  put  a  piece  of 
light  canvas  over  the  flange  and  tie  it  down  by  put- 
ting a  blocking  cord  over  the  canvas  and  around  the 
flange.  Pull  the  canvas  down  until  there  are  no 
wrinkles,  dampen  the  canvas  with  a  wet  sponge,  and 
iron  until  the  canvas  is  dry.  A  No.  2  hatters'  iron 
is  the  best  size  for  flanging.  A  little  practice  is  re- 
quired to  determine  the  amount  of  moisture  necessary 
for  the  different  kinds  of  hats;  also  in  properly  rop- 
ing the  canvas  down  on  the  flange. 

After  letting  the  hat  set  in  the  flange  for  about 
fifteen  mintites,  it  can  be  removed,  and  it  is  then 
ready  for  trimming.  This  method  applies  to  all  hats 
to  be  flanged. 

Binding  soft  or  stiff  hats.  Measure  the  binding 
by  pinning  one  end  of  it  to  the  brim  of  the  hat  (the 
back  end  of  the  brim).  Draw  it  fairly  tight  around 
the  brim,  until  both  ends  meet  at  the  back;  then 
allow  about  a  quarter-inch  over  for  the  turn-in.  Now 
take  the  binding  off  and  sew  both  ends  together  with 
an  over-hand  stitch,  allowing  a  quarter-inch  turn-in 
at  each  end,  which  will  make  it  fit  tight. 

To  put  the  binding  on,  stick  a  pin  through  the 
binding  and  brim  at  the  back,  then  pul^  the  binding 
over  the  brim  and  taper  it  so  that  the  front  and  rear 
of  the  brim  width  of  the  binding  must  be  the  same 
at  the  center  and  tapered  to  the  curl,  so  that  there 
will  be  one-eighth  inch  turn  over  the  curl.  Get  the 
binding  even  all  around  and  it  is  then  ready  for  sew- 
ing, which  is  done  with  No.  40  cotton.     Use  a  small 


286      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Stitch  in  the  front  and  rear,  and  on  the  sides  you  can 
make  the  stitches  about  an  inch  ajjart. 

The  above  directions  are  for  plain  binding.  For 
reversed  binding,  the  measuring  and  sewing  together 
are  done  in  the  same  way.  but  in  putting  it  on,  the 
under  edge  is  sewed  on  first  about  one-eighth  inch 
from  the  edge  of  the  brim,  and  then  reversed  or  pulled 
over,  and  then  sewed  on  the  under  edge  of  the  brim 
with  a  fine  stitch,  so  that  it  does  not  show  on  the  top 
of  the  brim ;  for  this  work  a  good  strong  No.  60  cotton 
is  best. 

To  stitch  the  under  binding,  take  one  stitch 
through  the  binding  and  brim;  then  run  the  stitch 
along  the  extreme  edge  of  the  binding  for  an  inch, 
next  take  another  stitch  through  the  binding  and 
brim,  and  so  on  till  finished. 

Measuring  sweat  leathers  for  soft,  stiff,  Panama  and 
straw  hats.  Cut  one  end  of  the  leather  off  straight  or 
at  a  ver>'  straight  angle,  then  hold  or  pin  it  to  the 
center  of  the  back  of  the  hat,  bring  the  other  end  of 
the  leather  around  the  edge  of  the  hat  until  both  ends 
meet,  and  cut  off  the  end  the  same  as  the  other. 

Inside  of  the  stitched  edging  running  the  full  length 
of  the  leather,  you  vsnll  find  a  reed.  Pull  this  out  about 
one  inch,  then  stretch  the  edge  of  the  leather,  which 
has  become  puckered  by  pulling  out  the  reed,  until 
it  has  a  slight  curve.  Then  measure  again  and  cut  off, 
if  necessar}',  the  end  from  which  the  reed  has  not  been 
pulled.  Now  push  the  part  of  the  reed  that  is  stick- 
ing out,  into  the  other  end  of  the  leather;  paste  on 
a  sticker  to  hold  both  ends  together,  and  sew  on  a 


CLEANING    AND    RENOVATING.  287 

small  bow.  The  leather  is  now  fitted  and  ready  to 
sew  in  the  hat,  which  is  done  by  stitching  with  a  small 
stitch  about  one  inch  apart,  the  long  stitch  being 
buried  between  the  edge  of  the  leather  and  the  edge 
of  the  hat.  Soft-hat  bindings  are  sewed  on  by  an 
ordinary  sewing  machine ;  derbj'  bindings  are  all  sewed 
on  by  hand. 

Formula  for  cleaning  straw,  Panama,  and  Leghorn 
hats.  Dissolve  eight  ounces  of  binoxalate  of  potassium 
in  one  gallon  of  hot  water  (it  will  dissolve  qmcker  if 
pulverized),  and  add  one-half  pound  of  flowers  of  sul- 
phur to  the  solution,  which  can  be  used  hot  or  cold. 
Then  scrub  che  hat  thoroughly  with  this  solution, 
taking  care  not  to  injure  the  straw  or  Panama. 
Have  a  box  of  dn.-  flowers  of  sulphur  into  whi::h  oc- 
casionally dip  the  brush,  as  the  grit  of  the  sulphur 
will  help  to  cut  the  dirt.  After  you  have  the  hat 
thoroughly  cleaned,  rinse  well  in  running  water,  and 
then  hang  it  out  in  the  sun  to  dry  and  bleach.  The 
same  method  applies  to  Panama  hats  as  to  the  cleaning, 
but  after  you  have  the  Panama  thoroughly  cleaned 
and  rinsed,  dip  your  brush  into  clear  water,  then  into 
your  box  of  dry  sulphur,  and  apply  it  to  the  Panama, 
so  as  to  form  a  paste.  See  that  every  part  of  the 
hat  is  covered  except  the  inside.  Then  put  the  hat  out 
into  the  sun  to  bleach  for  an  hour  or  so,  turning  it  once 
or  t\\ace,  so  that  che  sun  reaches  evers  part  of  it.  After 
the  hat  is  thoroughly  dry,  take  a  stiflf  brush,  and  brush 
off  the  sulphur  well.    The  hat  is  now  read}-  for  blocking. 

The  same  method  of  bleaching  can  be  applied  to 
straw  hats,  if  they  do  not  clean  as  nicely  as  they  should. 


288   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Another  excellent  metltod  for  cleaning  and  bleaching 
Panama  Iiats  is  as  follows:  Soak  the  hats  in  a  cold, 
facty  soap-bath  to  which  has  been  added  i  teasixx^nful 
of  Burmol  and  i  teasixx>nful  of  soda  to  each  lo  gal- 
lons of  water.  The  hats  should  be  soaked  for  lo  or  15 
minutes,  after  which  they  should  be  removed  and 
scoured  with  a  stiff  brush,  rinsed  twice  in  warm  water 
and  once  in  cold.  It  is  essential  that  all  of  the  soap 
be  removed  from  the  hats,  and  to  this  end  they  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  in  clear,  cold  water  for  the  neces- 
sary time  after  being  scoured.  A  bleaching-bath  is 
then  prepare  i  by  adding  i  teaspoonful  of  sodium  per- 
borate to  each  3  gallons  of  water.  This  bath  is  heated 
to  100°  F.,  the  hats  entered  and  the  bath  kept  at 
this  temperature  for  2  or  3  hours.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  keep  the  hats  below  the  surface  of  the  bath 
while  they  are  bleaching.  When  taken  out,  the  hats, 
^^^thout  rinsing,  are  placed  in  a  warm,  dilute  oxalic- 
acid  bath.  The  amount  of  acid  used  in  this  bath  should 
only  be  enough  to  make  the  bath  sour  to  the  taste. 
The  hats  then  should  be  given  one  or  two  \N'arm  rinses 
and  one  cold  rinse,  after  which  they  are  ready  for 
sizing.  Potato  starch  is  a  ver\  good  size  for  Panama 
hats,  or  if  the  cleaner  desires  he  may  purchase  a  jjre- 
pared  sizing  material  from  the  supply  houses.  If  the 
starch  is  used  it  should  be  squeezed  through  the  hats 
and  the  hats  wiped  off  vsnth  muslin.  The  hats  should 
be  dried  in  the  stm  if  possible.  They  never  should 
be  placed  in  the  extractor,  as  injury  is  very  sure  to 
result. 

If  the  cleaner  so  desires  he  mav  bleach  the  hats 


CLEANING   AND    RENOVATING.  289 

with  permanganate  after  cleaning  them  with  soap  and 
rinsing  as  described  above.  A  strong  solution  of  the 
permanganate  of  potash  should  be  made,  the  hats 
entered  into  it  and  allowed  to  remain  from  5  to  10 
minutes,  after  which  they  should  be  taken  out  and 
rinsed  in  clear  water.  A  bleach-bath,  in  the  propor- 
tion of  I  oz.  of  sodium  perborate  to  each  gallon  of 
water,  and  enough  acid  to  make  the  bath  weakly  acid, 
is  then  made  up  and  heated  to  120°  F.  The  hats  are 
placed  in  this  bath  and  allowed  to  remain  there  until 
they  are  a  perfect  white.  They  are  then  placed  in  a 
dilute,  hot  oxalic-acid  bath  for  a  few  minutes.  A 
small  amount  of  formyl  blue  or  cyanole  added  to  this 
last  bath  will  improve  the  color  and  produce  a  more 
pleasing  whiteness.  The  hats  are  then  ready  for  sizing 
and  blocking. 

Another  formula  for  cleaning  straw  hats  is  as  follows: 
Mix  bisulphate  of  soda,  10  ozs.;  pulverized  tartaric 
acid,  2  ozs.;  and  pulverized  borax,  i  oz.  Make  some 
of  this  mixture  with  a  sufificient  quantity  of  water 
into  a  thin  paste,  and  with  the  latter  rub  or  brush 
the  hat.  The  tartaric  acid  liberates  the  sulphurous 
acid,  and  the  borax  promotes  penetration  into  the 
straw  fiber. 

Bleaching  straw  and  straw  hats.  The  process  of 
bleaching  is  much  simplified  by  using,  in  place  of 
chloride  of  lime  or  sulphurous  acid,  a  salt  conta,ining 
sulphurous  acid,  such  as  sulphite  or  hyposulphite  of 
sodiimi,  etc.  Dissolve  a  sufficient  quantity  of  such  a 
salt  in  water  and  immerse  the  previously  cleaned 
straw  articles,  while  still  moist,  in  the  solution,  allow- 


290      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

ing  them  to  remain  in  it  for  several  hours.  In  the 
meanwhile,  prepare  in  another  vessel  a  dilute  solu- 
tion of  hydrochloric  acid  free  from  iron  (one  of  tar- 
taric acid  is  preferable),  bring  the  hats  into  the  solu- 
tion, and  after  covering  the  vessel  wnth  a  lid  allow 
them  to  stand  until  they  have  acquired  the  projxT 
degree  of  whiteness. 

If  the  hats  and  other  articles  of  straw  are  properly 
prepared  by  treatment  with  soap,  potash,  and  am- 
monia, they  will  come  from  the  bleaching  fluid  in  a 
faultless  state.  They  are  then  rinsed  in  running  water, 
and  to  increase  still  further  their  whiteness  they  may 
be  slightly  blued  ^^^th  methyl-violet  of  a  reddish  tinge. 

For  six  hats  of  the  ordinan*-  kind,  3^2  ozs.  of  h>-po- 
sulphite  of  sodiimi  and  2^^  to  3  ozs.  of  pure  hydro- 
chloric acid  free  from  iron  are  generally  required. 
Exact  quantities  by  weight  cannot  be  given,  since 
the  variety  of  straw,  thickness  of  the  braid,  etc.,  have 
to  be  considere<l. 

Hydrogen  peroxide,  as  well  as  sodium  peroxide. 
is  at  ])resent  frequently  employed  for  bleaching  straw, 
the  latter  being  placed  in  a  moist  state  in  the  bleaching 
liquor.  With  hydrogen  peroxide  the  bleaching  bath 
is  prepared  by  adding  ammcmia  to  commercial  (10 
per  cent.)  hydrogen  jx^roxidc  until  red  litmus  paper 
just  turns  blue;  the  bath  should  be  slightly  alkaline, 
though  an  excess  of  ammonia  must  be  carefully  avoided, 
it  ha\nng  an  injurious  effect  u])on  many  articles.  The 
straw  remains  immersed  in  the  bath  for  12  hours,  and 
is  then  washed.  A  repetition  of  the  process  may 
sometimes  be  necessary. 


CLEANING    AND    RENOVATING.  29I 

For  bleaching  with  sodium  peroxide,  boil  the  straw 
in  a  solution  of  about  2  per  cent,  sodium  peroxide, 
rinse  it  in  acidulated  water,  pass  it  through  a  bath  of 
sodium  bisulphite  and  finally  wash  thoroughly  with 
water,  and  dry. 

Dyeing  straw  and  straw  hats.  The  most  beautiful 
colors  on  straw  and  straw  hats  are  obtained  with 
aniline  colors,  but  the  straw  must  first  be  freed  from 
grease  and  bleached. 

The  aniline  colors  are  best  dissolved  by  pouring 
100  parts  of  boiling  water  over  i  part  of  coloring 
matter  and  stirring  thoroughly.  The  aqueous  solu- 
tions being  in  time  subject  to  decomposition,  it  is 
advisable  to  prepare  only  sufficient  for  present  use 
and,  before  dyeing,  filter  the  solutions  through  a  close 
cloth,  since  any  undissolved  particles  of  coloring 
matter  may  readily  cause  stains. 

For  dyeing  straw  and  straw  plaiting  the  following 
dyestuffs  may  be  used: 

a.  Basic  colors,  particularly  for  bright  tones,  mode 
shades,  and  blacks  on  material  easy  to  penetrate. 

b.  Acid  colors  on  material  difficult  to  dye  through. 

c.  Direct  colors,  particularly  for  blacks. 

The  manner  in  which  the  basic  colors  are  dyed  on 
straw  is  as  follows,  assuming  that  a  light  green  is 
desired:  The  wetted  material,  while  still  hot,  is  en- 
tered into  the  lukewarm  dye-bath  and  dyed  at  the 
simmer.  The  dye-bath  is  made  up  as  follows:  From 
2  to  5  per  cent,  of  acetic  acid,  or  one-half  the  amount  of 
tartaric  acid  (the  latter  gives  brighter  shades),  1.5 
per  cent,  true  phospine,  5  per  cent.  Malachite  Green 


292   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Cr^'stals  or  powder.  The  dyeing  is  continued  until  the 
straw  has  been  penetrated  sufficiently.  This  will  take 
about  ^  hour  on  an  average.  The  straw  is  then  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  cooling-bath  for  about  one  hour  longer, 
and  when  dyeing  dark  shades  it  is  the  better  j^lan  to 
allow  the  material  to  remain  in  the  bath  overnight. 
When  Auramine  O  is  employed  it  is  best  not  to  add  the 
dyestuff  to  the  bath  until  the  boiling  has  been  completed. 

Manner  of  dyeing  straw  iviih  the  acid  colors.  Violet. 
Dye  at  from  175  to  195°  F.  for  from  3  to  4  hours,  or 
in  the  case  of  the  harder  plaits  for  from  5  to  6  hours, 
using  a  concentrated  solution  of  Acid  Violet  S4B.  but 
\\nthout  any  other  ingredients.  The  water  used  with 
which  to  make  up  the  dye-bath  should  be  soft. 

Manner  in  which  straw  is  dyed  with  the  direct  colors. 
Black.  Dye  with  the  addition  of  8  per  cent.  Direct 
Black  Concentrated  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as 
explained  under  6. 

The  follo%\'ing  general  rules  may  well  be  observed 
when  dyeing  with  the  basic  colors : 

1.  Light  shades  require  a  larger  quantity  of  acetic 
or  tartaric  acid  in  the  dye-bath  than  dark  shades. 

2.  It  is  well  to  add  the  dyestuff  in  several  jwrtions 
at  inter\-als.  The  acetic  or  the  tartaric  acid  on  the 
other  hand,  is  added  to  the  bath  all  at  once  at  the 
beginning  of  the  operation. 

3.  When  dyeing  in  copper  kettles  it  is  recommended, 
especially  when  dyeing  light  sliades,  that  ^'4  oz.  of 
ammonium  sulphcyanide  be  added  for  each  10  gallons 
of  the  dye-bath.  This  should  be  done  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  dyeing  operation. 


.  VIII. 

CLEANING  AND  DYEING  GLOVES. 

Glove  cleaning  is  done  largely  by  hand  in  the  small 
establishments,  but  in  recent  years  glove-cleaning 
machines  have  been  introduced  to  reduce  the  manual 
labor  as  far  as  possible,  and  are  now  in  almost  universal 
use  in  power-operated  cleaning  plants.  It  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  majority  of  white  gloves  now 
worn  are  alum-tanned;  and  as  this  tannage  is  very 
soluble  in  water,  the  use  of  the  latter  or  liquids  con- 
taining it  should  be  avoided. 

In  cleaning  gloves  by  hand,  various  appliances  are 
required,  such  as  vessels  for  holding  the  benzine, 
glove  sticks,  brushes,  glove  hands  or  trees,  and  cloths 
for  rubbing.  The  vessels  for  holding  the  benzine 
should  be  of  zinc,  or  tinned  or  galvanized  iron,  and 
each  should  be  fitted  with  a  tight-fitting,  self-closing 
lid.  Satisfactory  results  are  obtained  with  a  rectangu- 
lar vessel  constructed  with  a  lid  fitted  with  a  chain 
of  such  length  that  the  lid  will  not  open  so  far  as  to 
remain  open  when  the  hand  is  removed.  By  this 
means  the  loss  of  benzine  by  evaporation  is  minimized, 
a,nd  with  it  the  risk  of  fire. 

The  glove  stick  consists  of  a  round,  tapered  stick 
(293  ) 


294   '^l*^  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

of  hard  wood,  and  about  i8  inches  in  len^^h.  The 
smaller  end  takes  the  finger  of  the  glove,  and  the 
degree  of  ta])cr  is  such  that  the  wrist  is  on  the  thicker 
portion,  which  is  about  1I2  inches  in  diameter.  Glove 
sticks  are  also  made  with  a  small  rounded  end  to  take 
the  finger,  and  a  broader  flat  portion  to  take  the  \\Tist. 

The  brushes  should  be  of  the  best  black  bristle 
fastened  into  the  back  \\'ith  strings.  The  use  of  wired 
brushes  should  be  avoided  as  the  bristles  are  cut 
through  and  readily  come  out. 

Glove  hands  or  trees  for  shaping  the  gloves  are  made 
of  metal  and  are  heated  by  steam  or  electricity,  with 
four  pieces  to  take  the  fingers,  the  thumb  being  shaped 
by  the  operator.  It  is  general  to  em]3loy  glove  hands 
with  slots  between  the  fingers  to  accommodate  nickel 
slides  which  fold  the  sides  of  the  fingers  into  the  slots, 
shaping  the  gloves  in  the  same  manner  as  new  ones. 

In  cleaning  gloves,  the  kind  of  glove,  whether  kid, 
SuMe,  chamois,  or  buckskin,  has  to  bie  taken  into 
consideration.  The  last  three  varieties  may  be 
cleaned  by  ]DUtting  them  cm  the  hand  or  a  glove  tree 
and  rubbing  them  with  bread  crumbs  or  a  stiff  brush 
dipped  in  a  mixture  of  dr>'  fuller's  earth  and  powdered 
alum. 

Cleaning  kid  gloirs.  It  is  not  a  difficult  matter  to 
get  satisfactory'  results  when  cleaning  kid  gloves;  in 
fact,  these  articles  of  dress  arc  easily  handled  and  can 
be  made  to  provide  a  considerable  revenue  to  the 
cleaner,  in  season.  The  first  step  when  hatidling  gloves 
should  be  to  sort  them  according  to  color  and  to  clean 
each  lot  separately.     Three  main  separations  may  be 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    GLOVES,  295 

made — white,  tan,  and  black.  Further,  white  gloves 
with  black  stitching  should  be  cleaned  separately, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  the  black  dye  with  which  the 
stitching  is  colored  sometimes  bleeds,  in  which  case  it 
would  discolor  all  of  the  other  gloves  that  might  be  in 
the  lot.  If  the  cleaner  has  a  large  volume  of  gloves  to 
handle,  it  is  a  further  advantage  to  further  sub-divide 
them  into  two  classes — those  badly  soiled  and  those 
but  slightly  soiled.  In  the  former  subdivision  should 
be  placed  those  that  are  badly  stained  with  perspira- 
tion. These  may  be  soaked  -^dth  advantage  for  an 
hour  in  a  bath  prepared  with  5  pints  of  benzine,  3^ 
pint  of  ammonia,  i  pint  of  wood  alcohol,  and  i  oz.  of 
benzine  soap.  At  the  end  of  the  soaking  period,  the 
fingers,  if  stained  so  badly  as  to  make  such  a  treatment 
necessary,  should  be  given  a  scrubbing  with  a  brush 
dipped  in  the  soaking  solution.  Not  all  gloves  will 
require  this  scrubbing.  This  method  of  treating  per- 
spiration stains  is  best  done  before  the  gloves  are  put 
in  the  cleaning-bath,  but  it  may  be  done  after  cleaning 
if  desired.  Ether  and  chloroform  are  also  used  for 
removing  perspiration  stains  from  gloves,  but  they 
give  no  better  results  than  the  solution  described 
above.  If  any  stains  resist  this  treatment  they  may 
be  further  treated  by  rubbing  them  with  a  soft  cloth 
dipped  in  alcohol  and  working  the  stained  portions 
between  the  fingers. 

When  the  perspiration  stains  have  been  removed  the 
gloves  are  ready  for  cleaning.  Gloves  that  are  to  be 
cleaned  by  hand  are  placed  on  a  glove  stick  or  laid 
flat  on  a  slab,  and  scrubbed  \\dth  a  concentrated  solu- 


296   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

tion  of  benzine  soap.  Settled  benzine  may  be  used 
for  tan  and  black  gloves,  but  only  distilled  solvent 
should  be  used  for  white  and  light-colored  ones. 
When  the  gloves  are  clean  they  must  be  given  several 
rinses  to  remove  the  soap.  This  stage  of  the  process 
must  be  done  thoroughly.  If  any  soap  is  left  in  the 
glox'cs  it  will  cause  them  to  have  a  bad  odor  and  in 
addition  will  give  thci'...  a  yellow  cast. 

When  all  of  the  soap  has  been  removed,  the  gloves 
should  be  wrapped  in  a  cloth  and  extracted  lightly. 
They  then  should  have  talcum  powder,  colored  to 
correspond  with  the  particular  gloves,  rubbed  into 
them,  expanded,  and  hung  to  dry.  If  a  talciun  powder 
corresponding  in  color  to  any  ])articular  pair  of  gloves 
cannot  be  had,  white  powder  may  be  colored  to  the 
desired  shade  with  a  basic  dye.  When  the  gloves  are 
dry  they  are  rubbed  \vith  a  cloth  to  remove  the  suqjlus 
powder,  and  shaped  and  polished  on  a  heated  glove 
form.  The  polishing  is  done  by  rubbing  the  gloves 
while  on  the  hot  form  with  a  .<^oft  cloth.  The  more 
rubbing  the  gloves  get  at  this  time  the  higher  the 
polish  will  be. 

White  glcrces  that  have  a  yellow  cast  after  being 
cleaned  in  this  manner  should  be  blued  in  the  last 
rinse.  For  this  purpose  some  blue  dye  soluble  in 
benzine  should  be  used.  Also  the  yellow  cast  may  be 
corrected  by  tinging  white  talcum  powder  blue  and 
rubbing  the  powder  into  the  gloves,  but  the  result  will 
not  be  as  permanent  nor  as  satisfactor>'  as  that  had 
by  bluing. 

Colored  gloves  are  cleaned  in  the  same  general  man- 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    GLOVES.  297 

ner  as  outlined  above,  with  the  exception  that  less 
soap  is  used  in  the  cleaning-bath.  All  of  the  processes 
necessary  to  clean  colored  gloves  should  be  hurried 
as  much  as  is  possible,  consistent  with  good  results,  to 
prevent  undue  loss  of  coloring  matter.  Some  lightening 
of  the  shade  is  always  bound  to  occur  when  colored 
gloves  are  cleaned  and  cannot  be  pre\^ented.  After 
the  gloves  are  cleaned  and  extracted,  the  color  may 
be  restored  by  rubbing  the  gloves  with  talcum  powder 
colored  to  the  desired  shade,  or  by  treating  them 
wdth  an  oil-soluble  color.  The  color  to  be  applied 
should  be  dissolved  in  benzine  and  applied  with  a 
soft  cloth,  using  care  to  see  that  it  is  put  on  evenly. 

Inasmuch  as  the  dry  cleaning  dissolves  out  some  of 
the  fat  in  the  leather,  some  cleaners  and  dyers  deem 
it  advisable  to  soften  them  again.  This  is  done  by 
passing  the  white  gloves  through  a  bath  made  up  of 
2  ozs.  of  lanolin  and  3  ozs.  of  white  petrolatum  dis- 
solved in  3  gallons  of  benzine.  The  softening-bath  for 
black  gloves  is  the  same  except  that  amber  petrolatum 
is  used  in  place  of  white.  The  gloves  are  left  in  the 
bath  for  from  10  to  15  minutes,  extracted,  and  dried.. 

Another  method  occasionally  employed  is  to  soak 
colored  gloves  in  a  mixture  of  sweet  oil  with  12  times 
its  voliune  of  benzine  for  about  half  an  hour,  and  then 
to  rub  dry.  This  is  certainly  attended  with  less  risk 
to  the  color,  but  it  makes  the  leather  hard  and  brittle. 

The  cleaner  who  has  a  large  volume  of  gloves  to 
clean  will  do  well  not  to  attempt  to  do  the  work  by 
hand,  but  to  use  a  machine  for  the  purpose.  The  proc- 
ess, when  using  a  machine,  is  the  same  as  tjiat  out- 


298      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DVER. 

lined  above  for  hand  work,  with  the  exception  that 
the  gloves  are  scrubbed  in  a  concentrated  benzine  soap 
solution  in  the  machine  instead  of  by  hand. 

An  excellent  method  of  cleaning  white  gloves  is 
as  follows:  Soak  the  gloves  in  benzine.  If  there  are 
rust  or  ink  stains  they  are  removed  before  soaknng. 
To  remove  rust  stains,  damp  them  with  a  wet.  pointed 
stick,  and  then  pat  them  with  a  cloth  dipj^ed  in  dilute 
oxalic  acid.  As  soon  as  the  stain  has  disappeared, 
rinse  the  place  and  dr\'  it  \\'ith  a  white  cloth.  The  treat- 
ment must  be  executed  as  quickly  as  possible  and  the 
w^etting  must  be  confined  to  the  stained  part.  It  is 
also  essential  to  remove  the  acid  completely  the  mo- 
ment it  has  done  its  w^ork.  Ink  stains  arc  treated  in 
the  same  way,  but  as  much  of  the  ink  as  jxjssible 
should  be  removed  by  rubbing  with  a  damp  cloth. 
The  soaking  and  washing  should  be  done  in  a  dry, 
warm  room,  which  must  not  be  heated  by  steam, 
or  have  steam  escaping  in  it.  After  a  brief  soaking, 
each  glove  is  ^^Tung,  put  on  a  glove  form  and  care- 
fully brushed  all  over  with  a  hard  brush  which 
resembles  a  large  tooth-brush.  During  the  pnx'css  the 
brush  is  dipped  alternately  in  alcohol  and  in  zinc 
white.  The  two  make  a  paste  on  the  brush  which 
penetrates  the  pores  of  the  leather  and  brings  away 
all  dirt  and  perspiration.  Places  stiffened  by  perspira- 
tion, such  as  the  finger-tips  and  the  part  of  the  glove 
covering  the  ball  of  the  thumb,  are  specially  treated 
afterwards  by  rubbing  them,  using  the  forefinger  and 
thumb  of  each  hand.  This  treatment  effects  a  radical 
cure,   arkd   the  places  become  soft  and  white  again. 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    GLOVES.  299 

The  gloves  are  then  rinsed  in  clean  benzine.  This  is 
then  squeezed  out,  and  the  leather  is  nourished  with 
a  fat-bath  for  about  half  an  hour.  The  benzine  makes 
the  leather  brittle,  and  benzine  soap  acts  far  more 
vigorously  in  the  same  direction,  so  that  its  use  should 
be  avoided.  The  fat-bath  is  made  by  dissolving  2 
lbs.  of  lanolin  and  4  lbs.  of  vaseline  in  10  quarts  of 
benzine  over  a  water-bath.  This  is  diluted  for  use 
with  10  times  its  volume  of  benzine.  Oils  must  not 
be  used,  as  they  turn  rancid  and  impart  a  bad  odor 
to  the  leather.  The  bath  in  use  is  kept  in  a  vessel 
with  a  tight-fitting  lid,  and  is  reinforced  from  the 
stock  solution  as  required.  Care  must  be  taken  that 
the  sediment  from  the  stock  solution  does  not  get 
into  the  bath.  When  a  fresh  stock  is  made  the 
benzine  is  distilled  off  from  the  sediment  from  the  old 
solution. 

After  about  half  an  hour  in  the  fat-bath  the  gloves 
are  taken  out  one  by  one  and  well  squeezed.  They 
are  then  at  once  dusted  over  with  powdered  talcum, 
unless  there  are  still  dirty  spots  which  must  first  be 
rubbed  with  zinc  white  on  the  glove  form  by  means 
of  a  mediimi-hard  brush.  All  this  and  the  powdering 
with  talcum  must  also  be  done  on  the  glove  form 
before  the  glove  is  dry.  Then  put  it  on  a  stretcher 
and  polish  it  by  hard  rubbing  with  a  clean  white  linen 
cloth.  The  talcum  is  applied  with  a  linen  rag  rolled 
up  and  tied  at  the  ends  of  the  roll,  and  dipped  into  a 
box  of  the  powder. 

Chamois  gloves  are  washed  in  lukewarm  soap-water 
to  which  a  few  drops  of  ammonia  have  been  added. 


30O      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER, 

Soak  the  gloves  in  the  bath  for  some  time,  and  pro- 
mote the  loosening  of  the  dirt  by  squeezing  and  knead- 
ing. Then  rinse  in  clean  water,  and  draw  the  gloves 
through  a  weak  soai>bath  to  keep  them  soft  after 
dr>nng.  This  treatment  restores  "nourishment"  to 
the  leather.  The  soap-bath  should,  however,  not  be 
too  strong,  other^^^se  the  leather  becomes  smean,*. 
The  gloves  are  then  thoroughly  wrung  and  rubbed 
between  the  hands,  so  that  the  water  still  remaining 
in  them  is  uniformly  distributed  in  order  to  prevent 
stains  from  \\Tinging.  They  are  then  dra\\'n  smooth, 
stretched  A\-ith  the  glove  stretcher,  and  dried  in  the 
air,  but  not  in  the  sun,  nor  at  too  high  a  temperature. 
Wringing  should  not  be  done  lengthwise,  but  in  the 
direction  of  the  \\'idth;  place  the  fingers  over  the 
palm  of  the  glove. 

Colored  chamois  gloves  have  to  be  re-dyed  after 
washing,  they  losing  much  of  their  dye  during  the 
process. 

After  dyeing,  the  smoothness  and  the  softness  of  the 
leather  must  be  restored.  This  may  Ix?  done  by  taking 
the  gloves  through  a  softening-bath  which  is  prepared 
as  follows:  Two  ounces  of  pure  castile  soap;  ^4  oz. 
of  bleached  wax;  Yi  oz.  of  glycerine;  y^  oz.  of  sodium 
])erborate  dissolved  in  cold  water;  the  yolk  of  one 
egg,  and  a  few  teaspoonfuls  of  Monopol  oil.  Mix 
these  ingredients  together  well  and  add  enough  water 
to  make  a  thin  liquid.  Work  the  gloves  in  this  prep- 
aration until  the  leather  has  become  soft,  then  squeeze 
them  out.  wrap  them  in  a  cloth  and  give  them  just 
enough  extracting  to  remove  the  surplus  water.     It 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING    GLOVES.  30I 

should  not  be  forgotten  to  work  the  gloves  well  in  the 
preparation.  The  gloves  then  should  be  dried  in  a 
cool,  well-ventilated  place.  If  they  are  placed  in  a 
hot  dry-room  they  become  streaked  and  the  dyeing 
must  be  done  over.  When  dry  they  are  finished  on 
forms. 

Buckskin  gloves  are  soaked  in  lukewarm  water  for 
half  an  hour  previous  to  washing.  Then  wash  them 
in  a  soap  solution  at  77°  F.,  paying  special  attention 
to  the  seams,  as  the  dirt  sticks  very  firmly  in  them. 
Then  rinse  the  gloves  thoroughly,  wrap  them  in  a 
dry  linen  cloth  and  extract,  and  finally  hang  up  to 
dry.  When  an  extractor  is  not  available  \\aing  them 
as  dry  as  possible  in  a  linen  cloth.  To  restore  flexi- 
bility and  softness  to  the  gloves,  add  to  the  last  rins- 
ing water  glycerine  in  the  proportion  of  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  to  the  quart  of  water. 

Gauntlets  are  cleaned  with  benzine,  or,  in  case  they 
are  very  dirty,  with  soap,  and  then  rubbed  with  talcvim. 
If  the  cuffs  are  tinted,  pulverize  very  pure  whitelead 
(krems),  stir  with  dissolved  gum-arabic  and  water 
(half  and  half)  to  a  thin  paste,  and  apply  it  with  a 
brush  to  the  cuffs.  After  drying,  rub  vigorously  with 
a  white  cloth  to  restore  the  luster.  ' 

Suede  gloves  are  cleaned  as  follows:  Place  them  in 
a  bath  of  ammonia  2  parts,  water  8  parts,  for  two 
days,  then  rinse  in  cold  soft  water,  and  dry  in  the  air. 
Since  by  this  method  of  washing  the  gloves  are  not 
rubbed  as  is  necessarily  the  case  in  washing  with  soap, 
the  leather  does  not  become  rough,  but  preserves  its 
original  appearance. 


302   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  I)^  ER. 

Silk  gloves.  White  silk  gloves  are  easily  cleaned  in  a 
soap-bath.  The  tem|xjrature  of  the  bath  should  not 
exceed  130°  F.  When  clean  the  gloves  should  be  given 
one  warm  rinse  and  two  cold  ones,  in  the  last  of  which 
a  small  amount  of  alcohol  has  been  added.  When  the 
gloves  are  but  ])artially  dry  they  should  l)e  sized  \nth 
a  weak  solution  of  fish  glue  and  finished  by  ironing. 

Colored  silk  gloves  are  liable  to  bleed  considerably 
when  wet  cleaned,  and,  therefore,  the  dry-cleaning  proc- 
ess should  be  used  whenever  iwssible.  When  wet 
cleaning  is  necessary  to  get  colored  silk  gloves  clean, 
it  should  be  done  as  quickly  as  possible  in  cold  or 
lukewarm  water  and  the  gloves  rinsed  in  acidulated 
water. 

Machines  for  cleaning  gloves  have  come  into  exten- 
sive use.  There  arc  a  number  of  different  types  of 
these  machines  on  the  market,  and  in  princi])le  are 
identical,  the  gloves  being  cleaned  by  revolving  or 
reciprocating  brushes  in  a  concentrated  benzine  soap 
solution.  The  gloves,  as  a  rule,  are  freed  from  per- 
si)iration  stains  before  being  i)laced  in  the  machine. 
Glove-cleaning  machines  are  inexiiensive  in  first  cost, 
and  economical  to  operate,  and  they  turn  out  a  large 
volume  of  work  at  a  low  iinxluction  cost.  In  addition 
the  grade  of  work  done  by  them  is  superi(^r,  in  most 
cases,  to  that  done  by  hand. 

Dyeing  kid  gloves.  After  the  gloves  have  been 
washed  and  powdered  as  jireviously  described,  the 
powder  should  not  all  be  rubl)cd  off,  but  a  little  of 
it  should  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  leather.  They 
are  then  dyed  by  appljdng  a  solution  of  the  requiral 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    GLOVES.  303 

coloring  matter  with  a  brush  or,  what  is  better,  with 
a  flannel  rag,  since  with  a  brush  the  coloring  matter 
is  apt  to  be  laid  on  too  thick  and  uneven. 

The  inner  widths  of  the  fingers  should  be  dyed 
first.  After  the  color  has  been  applied,  the  gloves 
should  be  well  rubbed  with  colored  powder,  then 
stretched  on  the  glove  tree,  and  the  upper  breadth 
of  the  hand  dyed  as  evenly  as  possible,  and  likewise 
well  rubbed  in  with  powder.  Last  of  all  the  inner 
part  of  the  palm  of  the  hand  should  be  dyed  and 
powdered.  Should  the  color  look  unequal,  retouch 
and  powder  once  more.  The  powder  equalizes  the 
color  of  its  own  volition,  as  it  is  vigorously  rubbed  into 
the  damp  leather.  After  thoroughly  drying,  a  second 
fat-bath  of  the  same  composition  as  previously  given 
may  be  applied.  While  this  is  not  absolutely  neces- 
sary, it  greatly  improves  the  appearance  of  the  gloves. 
Last  of  all  polish. 

Black  on  gloves.  The  most  common  older  method  of 
dyeing  leather  black  is  by  means  of  logwood.  Apply 
decoction  of  log\vood  of  3  to  5  degrees  Be.,  giving  two  or 
three  coatings,  allowing  each  coating  to  become  dry  be- 
fore applying  the  next.  Then  dip  the  gloves  in  a 
solution  of  green  vitriol  and  brush  with  warm  water. 
Should  the  color  not  prove  sufficiently  dark,  some  de- 
coction of  fustic  or  quercitron  may  be  added  to  the  log- 
wood decoction.  In  place  of  green  vitriol,  nitrate  of 
iron  may  be  used.  As  the  leather  begins  to  dry,  rub 
it  with  a  little  olive  oil  and  talcum  powder  and  press 
between  flannel.  The  treatment  with  olive  oil  and 
talcum  powder  is  repeated,  and  the  gloves  allowed  to 


304   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

dry  on  the  glove  form.  No  coloring  matter  must  reach 
the  inside  of  the  glove. 

The  bluish  tint  so  much  liked  in  black  gloves  is  ol> 
tained  by  washing  the  dyetl  article  with  ammonia. 

Brown  on  gloves  may  also  be  obtained  by  the  applica- 
tion of  decoctions  of  fustic,  logwood,  and  Brazil  wood, 
with  some  alum,  the  quantities  of  the  dyestufls  to  be 
used  depending  on  the  shade  required.  For  darken- 
ing the  shade  use  a  small  quantity  of  green  vitriol. 

Morocco-red  on  gloves  is  ])roduced  by  apphnng 
cochineal  decoction,  to  which  a  little  tin  salt  and 
oxalic  acid  have  been  added.  A  darker  shade  is  ob- 
tained by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  logwood 
decoction. 

Gray  on  gloves  is  produced  by  applying  sumac  de- 
coction, and  subsequent  treatment  with  weak  solutions 
of  green  vitriol.  An  addition  of  fustic  and  logwood, 
as  well  as  fustic  and  Indigo  Carmine,  to  the  sumac 
decoction  gives  greenish  gray. 

If  the  seams  are  to  remain  white,  cover  them  with 
flour  paste  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  fat. 

The  use  of  aniline  colors  for  dyeing  kid  gloves  is, 
however,  far  more  simple  and  cheaper  than  the  pre- 
viously described  methods. 

There  are  at  present  \qt\  few  shades  of  colors  which 
cannot  be  produced  %vith  the  assistance  of  aniline  colors, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  very  special  tones,  it  may 
be  asserted  that  even  the  most  difficult  shades  can  be 
dyed  on  leather. 

However,  not  all  aniline  colors  can  be  used  for 
dyeing  leather,  many  of  them  which  arc  suitable  for 


CLEANING    AND    DYEING    GLOVES.  305 

silk  and  wool  exerting  a  destructive  influence  upon 
leather. 

The  best  class  of  dyestuffs  to  use  are  the  basic 
coal-tar  dyes  like  Magenta,  Safranine,  Phosphine, 
etc.,  they  having  so  strong  an  affinity  for  animal 
tissues  that  leather  can  be  colored  or  stained  by 
simply  applying  an  aqueous  solution  of  them.  Next 
to  these  in  their  value  as  dyes  for  leather  are  the 
azo  and  acid  dyestuffs,  but  their  aqueous  solutions 
require  to  be  acidified  with  some  acid,  best  with 
acetic  or  oxalic  acid. 

For  dyeing  with  aniline  colors  the  gloves  are  smooth- 
ly stretched  over  wooden  hands,  and  the  dyestuff  is 
applied  with  a  brush,  or  better,  with  a  flannel  rag. 

Ready-made  dye  pastes  in  all  glove  shades  are  sold 
by  dealers  catering  to  cleaners  and  dyers.  These  prep- 
arations are  effective,  simple  of  application,  and  they 
can  be  efficiently  used  to  re-dye  all  gloves  that  have 
become  faded  through  wear  or  cleaning.  The  gloves 
to  be  re-dyed  are  stretched  on  a  heated  glove  form  or 
cone,  and  the  dye  paste  is  applied  with  a  soft  cloth. 
Following  are  formulae  for  preparing  glove  pastes: 

Five  ozs.  olive-oil  soap,  2]/^  ozs.  cocoanut  oil,  i  oz. 
castile  soap,  i  oz.  tallow,  i  oz.  lard,  i  oz.  bleached  wax, 
I  oz.  sugar,  i  oz.  of  soluble  dye  of  the  color  required 
well  dissolved  in  alcohol  and  strained  through  a  hair 
sieve.  The  mixture  must  be  thoroughly  heated  and 
well  mixed.  Some  talcum  powder  should  be  added 
while  mixing. 

Another  excellent  preparation  made  in  the  same  way 
is  as  follows:    i  oz.  gum  tragacanth,  i  oz.  oil  of  Benzol, 


3o6   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOIRER,  GARMENT  DVFR. 

a  ])inch  of  suitable  coloring*  matter  such  as  Leather 
Black,  Straw  Black,  Golden  BrouTi,  Bismarck  Brown, 
etc.  Wintergreen  oil  is  sometimes  added  to  ^ve  the 
preparation  a  pleasant  odor.  Both  of  the  above  prep- 
arations dr>'  rapidly  when  applied  to  the  glove  on  the 
heated  form. 

A  number  of  the  oil  dyes  can  also  be  used  for  dyeing 
gloves.  Those  of  this  class  that  are  soluble  in  ben- 
zine may  be  added  directly  to  the  benzine-soap  solu- 
tion, while  others  may  be  dissolved  in  alcohol  and 
applied.  Some  of  the  dyes  of  this  class  are  Oil  Yellow, 
Oil  Orange,  Oil  Scarlet,  Oil  Red,  Oil  Brown. 


IX. 


GARMENT    DYEING. 


This  branch  of  the  dyeing  trade  is,  of  course,  quite 
different  from  that  of  piece  dyeing.  Garment  dyeing 
is  the  most  difficult,  the  most  troublesome,  the  most 
thankless,  and  often  the  least  remunerative  of  all  the 
departments  of  dyeing.  Unlike  the  piece  dyer,  the 
garment  dyer  receives  the  goods  he  has  to  operate 
upon  after  they  have  been  already  dyed.  These  have 
to  be  re-dyed,  either  of  the  same  color,  because  the 
original  color  has  faded,  or  of  a  different  color  altogether. 
In  the  latter  case  stripping  is  often  a  necessary  prelimi- 
nary operation.  The  stripping  would  be  easy  enough, 
if  that  were  all  that  was  wanted,  but  the  garment  dyer 
is  expected  to  work  without  injury  to  the  material  of 
the  fabric,  and  to  give  the  customer  as  good  a  result 
as  regards  color  as  if  he  were  a  first-hand  dyer. 

The  first  point  is  to  keep  the  fabrics  stretched  as 
much  as  possible  during  the  whole  of  the  processes. 
Many  old  goods  tear  under  the  least  stretching,  es- 
pecially those  which  have  been  long  exposed  to  sun- 
light. It  is,  therefore,  advisable  with  all  goods  to 
stretch  them  gently  with  the  hands  in  the  presence  of 
the  customer.  If  they  then  rend,  the  customer,  if  rea- 
(307) 


308      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

sonable,  wll  be  con\nnced  that  their  day  Is  over.  If 
they  do  not.  it  will  be  safe  to  re-dye  them.  The  prac- 
tical dyer  wnll,  however,  have  judged  by  the  resist  of 
the  fabric  the  exact  strenj^h  of  the  fiber,  and  if  the 
stuff  is  worth  re-dyeing  he  must  judge  of  the  dye  to  be 
used  \\nth  reference  to  this.  He  must,  in  case  the  fiber 
is  weak,  select  such  dyes  as  can  be  used  in  baths  where- 
of neither  the  temperature  nor  the  reaction  is  sharply 
marked.  At  the  same  time  he  has  a  second  selection 
to  make  even  among  these,  as  regards  leveling  and 
coloring  power.  He  has  also  to  consider,  especially 
when  a  material  has  to  be  re-dyed  of  the  same  color 
as  at  first,  the  degree  in  which  the  original  color  has 
suffered  through  wear  and  exposure.  It  may  be  merely 
lighter.  It  may  have  changed  in  shade.  Generally  it 
is  not  only  altered  in  shade  or  even  color,  but  is  paler. 
In  this  matter .  experience  alone  is  of  scr\'ice.  it  being 
impossible  to  give  fixed  rules. 

If  the  original  color  is : 

White,  any  color  can  be  dyed. 

Yellow,  any  color,  except  pink  and  light  blue. 

Gray,  any  color,  except  pink,  pale  blae,  cream,  and 
yellow. 

Lilac,  pink,  and  prune,  to  pensee.  dark  blue,  olive- 
green,  olive-brown,  dark  brown,  and  black. 

Pale  blue,  any  color,  except  yello*v,  cream,  pink. 

Corn  or  gendarme  blue,  to  navy  blue,  dark  brown, 
reddish-brown,  corinth,  me<iium  green,  dark  green, 
olive-green,  olive-brown,  medium  bro\\'n,  black. 

Light,  medium,  or  bluish  green,  to  dark  green,  olive- 
green,  olive-brown,  dark  browni.  black. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  309 

Dark  blue,  to  corinth,  dark  green,  olive-green,  black. 

Olive-green  or  brown,  to  the  same  color,  reddish 
brown,  dark  brown,  black. 

Dark  or  Russian-green,  to  the  same  color,  olive- 
green,  olive-brown,  reddish-brown,  corinth,  dark  brown, 
black. 

Pink,  any  color,  except  yellow,  cream,  and  light 
blue. 

Carmoisine,  cerise  or  ponceau,  to  red,  olive,  medium 
brown,  dark  brown,  dark  green,  black. 

Bordeaux,  to  the  same  color,  reddish-brown,  corinth, 
dark  brown,  black. 

Reddish-brown,  to  the  same  color,  dark  brown, 
black. 

Light  brown,  to  dark  green,  olive-green,  olive-brown, 
reddish-brown,  bordeaux,  medium  brown,  dark  brown, 
black. 

Medium  brown,  to  the  same  color  or  black. 

Black,  to  the  same  color  only. 

DYEING    SILKS. 

Silk  garments  to  be  dyed  a  light  color  must  show 
a  white  ground,  or  the  original  color  should  be  of 
such  a  nature  that  it  can  be  removed  by  stripping  or 
washing,  or  at  least  a  clear  light  tone,  similar  to  the 
color  to  be  dyel,  should  remain  after  washing.  How- 
ever, beautiful  light  colors  can  only  be  produced  upon 
a  white  ground,  and  even  then  a  few  places  may  be 
found  which  by  perspiration,  dirt,  or  contact  with  air 
have  acquired  a  different  affinity  for  the  coloring  matter. 


3IO   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

After  washing,  and  in  dyeing  the  greatest  care  is 
required,  and  perfect  cleanhness  should  prevail.  All 
crumpling  together  of  the  articles  should  be  avoided, 
and  it  is  therefore  advisable  to  let  the  garments  re- 
main in  the  last  rinsing  water  until  dyeing  commences. 
For  dyeing,  copper  kettles  should  be  av'oided,  or,  if 
this  cannot  be  done,  the  kettle  should  be  verj'  wide, 
so  that  in  handling  the  articles,  they  do  not  come  too 
much  in  contact  with  the  sides  of  the  kettle,  other- 
wise copper  stains,  or  so-called  kettle  stains,  may  be 
readily  formed.  Another  reason  for  the  emplo>'ment 
of  a  wide  kettle  is,  that  by  dyeing  closely  together  in 
a  narrow  kettle  creases  difficult  to  remove  are  readily 
formed,  especially  in  heavy  silk  garments. 

The  goods  to  be  dyed  are  generally  cleaned  and 
stripped  with  ver\-  weakly  alkaline  hot  water  contain- 
ing soda  carbonate  or  ammonia,  or  with  strong  boil- 
ing soap  liquor  containing  about  >2  lb.  of  soap  per  lo 
gallons  of  water.  Soap  does  not  injure  the  silk  fiber; 
frequently,  however,  silk  moderately  weighted  has  to 
be  dyed,  and  in  this  case  it  tenders  during  the  treat- 
ment. A  small  portion  of  the  goods  to  be  dyed  must, 
therefore,  be  tested  for  strength.  This  is  generally 
done  by  folding  a  small  cutting  of  dr\'  material  in  the 
direction  of  both  the  waqj  and  the  weft,  pressing  the 
crease  hard  with  the  finger  nail  or  a  flatiron,  and  try- 
ing its  strength  by  stretching  and  jjulling.  If  it  breaks 
in  the  creases  very  great  caution  must  be  exercised 
in  dyeing.  The  test  is  still  more  thorough  if  the  ma- 
terial be  previously  boiled  for  some  time  in  a  soap 
solution. 


GARMENT    DYEING.  3II 

Damage  due  to  wear  and  exposure  of  silken  ma- 
terial may  be  comparatively  remedied  by  stripping  the 
ground  color,  as  the  subsequent  re-dyeing  covers  any 
defects.  Less  actention  need,  therefore,  be  paid  with 
silk  than  with  wool  to  the  selection  of  leveling  dye- 
stuffs,  and  nearly  any  coloring  matter  can  be  em- 
ployed on  silk,  though  the  acid  dyestuffs  are  generally 
used,  as,  with  a  few  exceptions,  all  of  them  dye  silk 
satisfactorily.  The  following  dyestuffs  are  recom- 
mended : 

Blacks.  Acid  Blue  Black,  Acid  Jet  Black,  the  latter 
shaded  with  Indian  Yellow  and  Acid  Green. 

Blues.  Alkaline  Blue,  all  makes.  Brilliant  Wool 
Blue  G,  Patent  Blue  Concentrated,  Cyanole,  Victoria 
Blue,  Indigotine,  Indulene,  Acid  Navy  Blue,  Fast 
Wool  Blue. 

The  various  brands  of  Alkaline  Blues  are  dyed  near 
i7o°toig5°F.,  with  the  addition  of  from  4  to  5  per  cent, 
of  borax.  After  dyeing,  the  goods  are  rinsed  in  water 
and  the  color  is  "raised"  in  a  hot  bath  containing  a 
small  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Green.     Acid  Green  Y,  Acid  Green  B,  Wool  Green. 

Orange.     Acid  Orange  Y. 

Reds.  Azo  Rubine,  Croceine,  AZ,  Fast  Red  A, 
Rhodamine  B,  Rose  Bengale  Extra  N,  Scarlet  all 
brands,  Azo  Fuchsine,  Azo  Carmine,  Ponceau. 

Violet.     Acid  Violet  Bluish,  Acid  Violet  6B. 

Yellows.  Acid  Yellow  R,  Azo  Yellow  Y,  Azo  Yel- 
low G,  Naphtol  Yellow  L,  Tartrazine. 

For  the  production  of  deeper  full  tones,  the  acid 
dyestuffs  may  be  combined  with  Indigo,  Pensee  Lake, 


312      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

etc.  The  silk  fiber  combines  with  these  coloring  mat- 
ters without  a  mordant,  it  being  in  most  cases  only 
neccssar\'  to  acidulate  the  dye-bath  Ns-ith  sufficient 
sulphuric  acid  that  its  presence  can  be  detected  Ijv  the 
taste.  However,  acetic  or  formic  acid  may  with  ad- 
vantage be  substituted  for  sulphuric  acid,  as  the  better 
exliaustion  produced  by  the  latter  is  of  little  conse- 
quence in  silk  dyeing,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  or- 
ganic acids  produce  better  leveling  baths. 

Enter  the  goods  at  about  120°  F.  and  gradvially  raise 
the  temperature  to  about  150°  F. 

All  silk  goods,  after  rinsing  in  water,  are  "scrooped" 
in  a  dilute  acetic  acid  bath  to  impart  to  them  the  pe- 
culiar handle  or  "scroop"  possessed  by  all  silk  fabrics. 

A  few  formulas  for  dyeing  silk  dresses  and  fabrics 
^^-ill  here  be  given,  but  the  dyer  must  not  rely  too 
much  on  the  quantities  given  as.  o^^^ng  to  the  difficul- 
ties which  are  involved  in  a  number  of  dresses  and  other 
fabrics,  the  sizes  of  which  may  var>'  much,  it  is  prac- 
tically impossible  to  give  definite  quantities  in  receipts, 
and  the  garment  dyer  must  be  pre])ared  to  vary  the 
quantities  to  suit  the  nimiber  and  size  of  the  goods  he 
is  dealing  with. 

Black  on  silk.  For  20  lbs.  weight  of  goods  prepare 
a  dye-bath  with  i>i  lbs.  Acid  Blue  Black,  }/2  oz.  Azo 
Yellow  R,  2  lbs.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  4  ozs.  of  acetic 
acid.  Different  blacks  especially  suitable  for  silk 
goods  can  be  had  from  most  dealers  in  dyestuffs. 
Saddening  is  done  with  Indian  Yellow  or  Orange. 

Dark  brown  on  silk.  For  10  lbs.  of  goods  prepare  a 
bath  containing  3K  ozs.  of  formic  acid,  t,}4  ozs.  Acid 


GARMENT   DYEING.  313 

Yellow  R,  2  ozs.  Azo  Carmine  2B,  and  i  oz.  Patent 
Blue  Concentrated.  Enter  the  goods  into  this  bath 
and  work  them  constantly,  and  at  the  same  time  grad- 
ually raise  the  temperature  to  190°  F.,  and  eventually 
to  near  the  boiling-point,  but  don't  boil  the  goods. 
Finish  according  to  the  shade  desired  with  Acid 
Brown,  Acid  Yellow,  or  Acid  Blue. 

Tobacco  brown  on  silk.  For  10  lbs.  of  goods.  Dye 
in  a  bath  containing  5  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  14  ozs.  of 
alum,  175  grains  of  Acid  Violet  Bluish,  420  grains  of 
Acid  Orange,  and  105  grains  of  Azo  Yellow.  Enter 
the  goods  warm  and  gradually  heat,  with  constant 
handling,  to  the  boiling-point.     Rinse. 

Gold  on  silk.  For  10  lbs.  of  goods.  Dissolve  5  ozs. 
of  Azo  Yellow,  i  oz.  of  Acid  Orange,  3^  oz.  of  Acid 
Blue  G,  and  $^2  ozs.  of  alum  in  the  dye-bath  and  add 
5>^  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid.  Dye  at  a  temperature  of 
from  145°  to  200°  F. 

Bordeaux  red  on  silk.  For  5  lbs.  of  goods  prepare 
a  bath  which  contains  the  following  in  solution :  4)^  ozs. 
of  sulphiiric  acid,  2)4  ozs.  of  Acid  Fuchsine,  i^i  ozs. 
of  Fast  Red,  >^  oz.  of  Indigo  Carmine.  Enter  the  gar- 
ments at  145°  F.  and  work  them  for  about  half  an  hour 
up  to  boiling  when  they  are  finished. 

Scarlet  on  silk.  Prepare  a  bath  containing  2  ozs. 
Scarlet  4R,  8  ozs.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  }4  oz.  sulphuric 
acid.  Dye  in  the  boiling  bath.  Various  shades  of 
scarlet  can  be  dyed  by  using  the  2R,  3R,  or  00  Scarlets. 

Crimson  on  silk.  Prepare  a  bath  containing  8  ozs. 
of  Glauber's  salt,  i  oz.  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  i  oz.  of 
Azo  Carmine,  and  dye  at  the  boil.     The  shade  of  crim- 


314   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

son  thus  obtained  is  beautiful,  and  is  fast  to  w^ashing 
and  light. 

Cherry  red  on  silk.  Prepare  a  bath  with  i  oz.  of 
sulphuric  acid,  i  oz.  of  Acid  Magenta,  i>^  ozs.  of  Fast 
Acid  Red,  ^  oz.  of  indigo  extract,  and  dye  at  the 
boil. 

Cream  on  silk.  Add  to  a  soap-bath  a  little  Phos- 
phine,  or  New  Phosphine  G,  raise  the  temperature  to 
the  boil,  enter  the  goods  and  work  for  15  minutes; 
then  lift,  wash  and  dr>'.  It  takes  but  little  of  any  of 
these  dyestuffs  to  produce  a  cream,  and  care  must  be 
taken  in  making  the  addition  to  the  bath,  otherwise 
the  shade  \\'ill  be  too  dark. 

Rose  color  on  silk.  Dye  the  garments  in  a  neutral 
bath  of  122**  F.,  containing  2}-^  to  8  drachms  of  Fuch- 
sine  Powder.  For  deeper  bluish  reds  use  Acid  Rubine, 
Fast  Acid  Red  Cone,  Carmoisine,  Azo  Fuchsine. 

Sahnoti  rose  on  silk.  For  10  lbs.  of  goods  prepare  a 
bath  with  3^  oz.  Azo  Fuchsine  SB,  }^  02.  Fast  Yellow 
S,  I  lb.  Glauber's  salt,  and  2  ozs.  acetic  acid. 

Blue  on  silk.  Dissolve  in  a  bath  1}^  ozs.  of  Alkaline 
Blue  6B,  and  S  ozs.  of  borax,  or  10  ozs.  of  soda.  Enter 
the  garments,  etc.,  at  100°  F..  and  while  thoroughly 
working  them,  heat  the  bath  to  167"  F.  Then  take 
them  out  and  prej^are  a  fresh  cold  bath,  to  which  add 
5)4  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid.  In  this  bath  work  the  silk 
for  yi  hour,  take  out  and  rinse. 

Xavy  blue  on  silk.  Greenish  dark.  For  10  lbs.  of 
goods  pre])are  a  bath  containing  9^^  ozs.  of  Indigo- 
tine,  4^2  ozs.  of  Acid  Na\y  Blue,  i}4  ozs.  Acid  Orange, 
2   to  8  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid.     The  acid  should  be 


GARMENT   DYEING.  315 

added  gradually  while  dyeing.  Start  the  dyeing  opera- 
tion at  190°  F.  and  heat  up  to  the  boiling-point.  Dye 
until  the  coloring  matter  has  been  absorbed  uniformly. 

For  pale  blue  and  blue  the  follo\ving  dyestuffs  are 
useful:  Cyanole  and  the  various  brands  of  Alkaline 
Blues.  For  peacock,  nayy  and  dark  blues,  the  same 
dyestuffs  may  be  used  if  shaded  or  darkened  with 
Cyanole  Green,  Acid  Green,  Acid  Blue  Black,  Acid 
Jet  Black,  according  to  requirements. 

Heliotrope  on  silk.  For  5  lbs.  of  goods.  Dye  in  a 
bath  of  2}i  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  5>^  drachms  Acid 
Violet  6B,  and  8>^  drachms  Acid  Violet  R  up  to  167° 
F.  According  to  whether  the  heliotrope  is  to  be 
bluish  or  reddish,  use  a  larger  quantity  of  the  first  or 
the  latter  coloring  matter.  If  a  dull  shade  is  desired, 
add  Orange  or  Azo  Yellow. 

Prune  on  silk.  For  5  lbs.  of  goods  use  a  bath  con- 
taining 3>^  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  8>^  drachms  of  Pori- 
ceaux,  and  i^  ozs.  of  Acid  Violet  6B.  Dye  according 
to  the  directions  given  for  heliotrope,  and  shade  ac- 
cording to  sample;  for  duller  shades  tone  with  Orange; 
for  clear  tones  with  Acid  Fuchsine  and  Acid  Violet. 

Silver  gray  on  silks.  For  5  lbs.  of  goods.  Dissolve  in 
the  bath  i>^  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  i^  drachms  of 
Acid  Violet  R,  and  8>^  drachms  of  Aniline  Gray. 
Dye  at  from  167°  to  195°  F. 

Gray  on  silk.  For  5  lbs.  of  goods  prepare  a  bath 
containing  2^  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid  and  1}^  ozs.  of 
Aniline  Gray.  Dye  at  195°  F.,  and  eventually  shade 
with  a  little  Orange  or  Fast  Brown. 

For  grays  the  various  brands  of  Induline,  Nigrosine, 


3l6   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

and  Aniline  Gray  may  be  used,  which  may  be  shaded 
as  desired  with  Orange,  Indian  Yellow,  or  Azo  Fuchsine. 

Bright  green  on  silk.  For  5  lbs.  of  goods  prepare  a 
bath  containing  Azo  Yellow,  i>4  ozs. ;  Acid  Green, 
14  drachms;  sulphuric  acid,  2>4  ozs.  E)>'e  until  the 
green  has  been  uniforml}*  absorbed,  and  finally  boil 
gently  for  a  short  time. 

Pea-green  an  silk.  For  5  lbs.  of  goods  prepare  a 
bath  with  ^4  lb.  Fast  Yellow  S,  i5<  ozs.  Cyanole  extra. 
^2  lb.  Glauber's  salt,  and  2  ozs.  acetic  acid.  Work  at 
the  boil. 

Fancy  colors  and  all  other  intermediate  tones.  As 
fancy  colors  may  be  designated  all  tones  which  deviate 
from  the  regular  ones.  They  are  produced  as  follows: 
As  ground  colors  in  dyeing,  red,  yellow,  and  blue  are 
used,  they  being  the  so-called  complementary'  colors 
of  which  all  other  tones  consist. 

Now,  according  to  the  preponderance  of  one  of 
these  ground-tones  in  the  desired  color,  the  articles 
are  first  dyed  with  ic  and  shaded  with  the  others. 

As  materials  for  the  ground-tones  may  be  recom- 
mended for  ;T//<ntv  Azo  Yellow,  turmeric;  ioT  fed:  Fast 
Red,  Ponceau,  Fast  Bro\NTi,  and  also  Acid  Fuchsine: 
for  yelloTi'  and  red  together :  Orange ;  for  blue:  Indigo 
Carmine,  Aniline  Blue.  Marine  Blue;  for  blue  and  red 
together:  Aniline  Acid  Violet.  For  the  aniline  colors 
the  bath  is  acidulated  with  sulphuric  add,  and  for  the 
other  coloring  matters  with  it  and  alimi. 

Genuine  velvet  is  dyed  in  the  same  dye-baths  used 
for  silk  gannents.  but  greater  care  is  required  in  the 
treatment.     Baste  aroimd  the  separate  pieces  a  strip 


GARMENT    DYEING.  317 

of  stuff  two  fi^igers  wide,  by  which  the  velvet  is  worked 
during  the  entire  operation.  When  entering  the  arti- 
cles in  the  bath,  place  the  velvet  side  down  so  that  in 
pushing  down  the  wrong  side  receives  the  pressure  of 
the  hand  or  stick.  After  dyeing  immediately  apply  to 
the  wrong  side  a  solution  of  gum  or  gelatine  ^nd  dry. 
As  regards  the  rest,  it  is  treated  as  cleaned  velvet. 

A  number  of  the  direct  colors  may  be  used  to  very 
good  ad\'antage  for  dyeing  silk  goods,  principally  for 
the  production  of  dyeings  fast  to  water  and  washing. 
These  dyeings  are  made  in  a  neutral  boiled-ofE  liquor 
slightly  broken  with  acetic  acid.  Any  excess  of  acid 
in  the  dye-bath  should  be  avoided,  particularly  when 
dyeing  goods  that  offer  resistance  to  the  penetration 
of  the  coloring  matter.  It  is  well  to  commence  the 
dyeing  by  working  \vithout  any  acid,  adding  it,  a  little 
at  a  time,  only  when  good  penetration  has  been  at- 
tained. 

DYEING    WOOL   AND    SILK    (gLORIA)    FABRICS. 

Gloria  is  woven  from  the  two  fibers — wool  and  silk — 
of  a  fine  texture,  so  that  it  can  be  used  in  the  place  of 
a  silk  fabric.  It  is  mostly  dyed  with  the  acid  dyes, 
and  these,  as  a  rule,  dye  the  wool  more  strongly  than 
the  silk  when  applied  at  boiling  heat,  the  converse 
being  the  case  at  low  and  meditrai  temperattires. 

The  following  dyes  act  equally  on  wool  and  silk  at 
boiling  heat:  Fast  Green  Bluish,  Patent  Blue,  Alkali 
Blue,  AlkaH  Violet,  Navy  Blue  B,  Acid  Violet  6B,  all 
Acid  Blacks.     The  following  dyes  have  rather  stronger 


3lS   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

affinity  for  wool:  Light  Green  S,  Wool  Green,  the  Add 
Orange  dyes,  Ponceaus,  etc. 

On  the  basis  of  their  affinity  for  silk  and  wool,  the 
acid  dyes  may  be  di\'ided  into  three  groups,  those  given 
above  as  ha\'ing  an  almost  identical  affinity  for  both 
fibers  being  taken  as  the  first  group.  To  the  second 
group  belong  such  dyes  as  chiefly  dye  wool  when  ap- 
plied at  boiling  heat — e.  g.,  Tartrazine,  Orange  G.  a  few 
Ponceaus.  Indigo  Carmine  Cyanine,  etc.  Finally  the 
third  group  comprises  the  dyes  haNnng  more  affinity 
for  silk  than  for  wool  at  mediimi  and  low  temperatures : 
Azo  Carmine,  Acid  Violet,  Water  Blue,  etc.,  as  also 
the  majority  of  the  basic  dyes  such  as  Methyl  Green, 
Auraminc,  Rhodamine,  etc. 

The  best  means  of  dyeing  wool  and  silk  to  shade 
is  by  using  the  dyes  of  Group  I,  unless  prevented  by 
other  reasons  such  as  their  equalizing  properties, 
suitability  for  combinations,  etc.  The  mode  of  ap- 
plication is  as  follows:  The  bath  is  set  with  about  lo 
per  cent,  of  "tartar  jjreparation,"  bisulphate,  and  one- 
half  the  necessary  quantity  of  dye,  the  goods  being 
then  entered,  and  the  bath  raised  to  boiling  heat  as 
quickly  as  the  equalizing  properties  of  the  dye  per- 
mit, boiling  being  continued  until  the  wool  appears 
sufficiently  shaded.  The  silk  will,  as  a  rule,  be  less 
deep  in  color;  consequently  after  boiling  the  bath 
down  to  between  1 13"  and  122°  F.,  the  rest  of  the  dye 
is  added,  and  the  operation  continued  in  the  cooling 
bath  until  the  silk  has  been  properly  dyed.  If,  how- 
ever, this  result  fails  to  ensuo,  recourse  must  be  had  to 
a  suitable  dye  of  the  third  group.     In  this  manner  a 


GARMENT   DYEING.  319 

light  yellow  may  be  obtained  with  Azo  Flavine,  which, 
however,  turns  dirty  in  dark  shades;  a  dark  yellow 
and  orange,  with  Orange  II;  red  with  Azo  Carmine, 
Magdala  Red,  or  a  Ponceau;  pale  blue  with  Patent 
Blue;  dark  blue  with  Acid  Violet  6BN,  and  a  bluish 
fast  green;  black  with  Acid  Black,  bluish,  deepened 
with  Orange  and  a  basic  green  at  low  temperature. 
For  mode  colors,  use  is  preferably  made  of  Azo  Carmine, 
Patent  Blue,  and  Azo  Flavine. 

To  produce  "shot"  effects  the  following  procedure 
is  adopted:  The  wool  is  dyed  first  with  a  dye  of  the 
second  group,  at  boiling  heat;  the  small  amount  of 
dye  that  has  become  fixed  on  the  fiber  of  the  silk  is 
then  removed  by  boiling  with  water,  soap,  or  am- 
monium acetate,  and  the  silk  afterwards  dyed  in  a  third 
bath  containing  a  dye  of  the  third  group,  the  bath  being 
concentrated  and  cold,  or,  at  most,  lukewarm.  Red, 
for  instance,  is  produced  on  the  wool  by  the  aid  of 
Ponceau  2R,  and  the  silk  dyed  green  with  Methyl 
Green  and  Auramine;  or  the  wool  dyed  green  with 
Acid  Green  extra  cone,  the  silk  red  with  Rhoda- 
mine,  etc. 

DYEING   WOOLEN    GARMENTS    AND    FABRICS. 

The  various  methods  that  are  used  for  dyeing  wool 
have,  of  course,  underlying  them  certain  principles  on 
which  they  are  based,  and  on  the  observance  of  which 
much  of  the  success  of  the  process  depends.  Wool 
must  be  treated  differently  from  cotton,  since  a  pro- 
cess of  dyeing  which  gives  good  results  with  the  latter 


320   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMKNT  DYER. 

fiber  would  lead  to  nothing  but  disastrous  effects  with 
wool  or  silk.  On  the  other  hand,  processes  are  used  in 
the  dyeing  of  wool  which  could  not  be  possibly  used 
for  cotton  on  account  of  the  very  different  properties 
of  the  fiber. 

Without  entering  too  much  into  detail  it  may  be 
said  broadly  that  the  application  of  the  various  color- 
ing-matters to  wool  is  governed  by  three  principles, 
namely:  Dyeing  with  acid  dyestuffs.  with  basic  dye- 
stuffs,  and  dyeing  with  mordant  dyes. 

The  application  of  the  acid  dyestuffs  is  effected  in 
the  presence  of  acids  or  salts,  viz..  sulphuric  acid, 
sodium  bisulphate,  formic  acid.  Glauber's  salt,  alum, 
acetic  acid,  ammonium  acetate,  or  ammonium  oxalate. 
The  object  of  these  acid  adjuncts  is  to  neutralize  the 
calcium  bicarbonate  in  the  dye  water,  liberate  the 
dye  acid,  and  finally  to  diminish  the  solubility  of  the 
latter  in  water,  thus  facilitating  its  absorption  by  the 
fiber  and  helping  the  bath  to  "draw."  The  stronger 
the  acid  the  better  and  more  quickly  is  the  dye  ab- 
sorbed by  the  wool.  An  equally  important  r61e  is 
played  by  Glauber's  salt,  which  acts  as  regulator  to 
ensuer  uniform  absorption  of  the  dye  by  checking  the 
rate  of  absorjjtion. 

The  usual  method  of  dyeing  wool  with  acid  dyes 
is  as  follows:  The  bath  is  charged  with  2  to  4  per 
cent,  of  sulphuric  acid,  10  per  cent,  of  Glauber's  salt, 
and  the  solution  of  dyestuff,  the  goods  being  entered 
at  a  lukewarm  or  medium  temperature,  and  gradually 
raised  to  boiling,  which  is  maintained  for  one  hour 
to  one  and  a  quarter.     This  prolonged  boiling  is  es- 


GARMENT    DYEING.  321 

sential  for  securing  the  equalization  of  the  dye,  though 
some  dyes,  such  as  Indigo  Carmine,  dye  well  at  a  some- 
what lower  temperature.  Only  in  the  case  of  light 
shades  is  three-quarters  of  an  hour  boiling  sufficient; 
and  here  it  is  advisable  for  better  equalization  to  dye 
with  less  acid  and  more  Glauber's  salt. 

The  basic  dyestuffs  are  taken  up  by  wool  in  a  very 
uniform  manner  without  the  use  of  any  adjuncts  in 
the  dye-bath,  and  the  absorption  begins  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  86°  to  104°  F.  Hard  water  should  be  corrected 
with  acetic  acid  until  the  reaction  is  slightly  acid. 
The  goods  are  entered  lukewarm,  and  the  operation  is 
continued  for  about  an  hour,  the  temperatUFe  not  being 
allowed  to  exceed  about  176°  F.  Dyeings  performed  at 
boiling  heat  are  less  brilliant  in  color.  Nevertheless, 
gentle  boiling  is  admissible  in  the  case  of  dark  shades, 
and  a  few  dyes  of  this  class,  such  as  Methyl  Violet. 
Auramine  must  be  dyed  in  a  neutral  bath. 

The  brightest  colors  are  obtained  by  adding  a  little 
Marseilles  soap  to  the  neutral  dye-bath  and  avoiding 
higher  temperatures,  about  122°  F.  being  the  limit. 
In  this  case,  however,  in  order  to  avoid  stains,  the 
water  must  first  be  boiled  with  soap  and  the  resulting 
sctun  removed. 

In  dyeing  with  mordant  dyes,  the  nature  of  the 
bath  water  plays  an  important  part,  and,  therefore, 
the  water  used  must  have  been  corrected  with  acetic 
acid;  otherwise  a  partial  precipitation  of  the  color,  in 
the  form  of  lime  and  magnesia  lakes,  may  occur.  In 
some  cases  organic  impurities  have  an  unfavorable  effect 
— e.  g.,  in  the  presence  of  Cochineal  or  Alizarine  Blue. 


322   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

The  mordants  used  are  various  compounds  of 
chrome,  iron,  and  alumina.  By  the  operation  of  mor- 
danting, a  dejx)sit  of  oxide  of  the  metal  is  formed  on 
the  fiber;  and  this,  combining  \vith  the  coloring  mat- 
ter, forms  \Nnth  it  an  insoluble  colored  body  on  the 
fabric,  and  so  dyes  it.  The  particular  color  thus  de- 
veloped on  the  fiber  depends  not  only  upon  the  coloring 
matter,  but  also  upon  the  mordant  which  is  used. 
Alizarine,  for  instance,  dyed  on  an  alumina  mordant 
develops  a  scarlet,  on  a  chrome  mordant,  a  dark  red, 
on  an  iron  mordant  a  dark  violet.  The  mordanting  is 
usually  done  before  the  dyeing,  but  it  may  be  done 
after  the  dyeing;  much  depends  upon  the  character  of 
the  dyestufif  which  is  used.  Some  coloring  matters,  such 
as  Alizarine  and  Gambine,  have  but  little  affinity  for 
the  fiber  and  will  not  dye  unmordanted  wool.  On  the 
other  hand,  such  dyestuffs  as  logwood,  fustic,  and  some 
of  the  coal  tar  colors  have  considerable  affinity  for 
the  fiber  and  may  be  first  applied  and  then  fixed  by 
treatment  with  the  mordant.  In  some  cases  the  dye- 
ing and  mordanting  mav  be  effected  in  one  bath.  This 
method  has  the  advantage  of  being  quicker,  more 
simple,  and  consequently  cheaper,  but  in  most  cases 
the  dyeings  are  not  so  full  or  not  so  well  fixed  as  with 
goods  prcNnously  mordanted. 

Preparing  woolen  ganttcnts  for  dyeing.  Proper  clean- 
ing is  the  prime  requisite  for  successful  dyeing.  It  is 
impossible  to  dye  uniformly  or  of  a  good  color  on 
fabrics  which  are  at  all  dirty.  On  goods  which  are  not 
scrupulously  clean  the  best  dyes,  even  in  the  hands  of 
the  most  skilful  dyer,  can  give  but  second-rate  results. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  323 

while  it  is  a  matter  of  experience  that  when  the  gar- 
ments are  properly  cleaned  before  dyeing,  a  second- 
rate  workman  can  get  passable  results  with  dyes 
which  are  by  no  means  the  best  of  their  kind  upon  the 
market. 

The  first  step  is  to  sort  the  garments  into  four 
classes,  the  dirtier,  dark-colored  ones  being  put  sepa- 
rate from  the  cleaner,  dark-colored  ones,  and  the  same 
with  those  of  the  lighter  shades.  White  goods  are 
cleaned  by  soaking  for  4  to  6  hours  in  a  warm  soap- 
bath  containing  a  little  ammonia. 

In  any  case  stains  are  first  rubbed  over  with  soap, 
and  the  garments  are  then  worked  for  an  hour  in  a 
carbonate-of-soda  bath  of  from  i  to  i^  per  cent, 
strength,  a^d  at  a  temperature  of  about  120°  F.  The. 
cleaner  goods  are  treated  first,  and  one  soaking  will 
probably  suffice,  and  will  leave  a  bath  which  can  be 
used  for  the  first  soaking  of  the  dirty  garments.  All 
the  goods  are  rinsed — first  in  a  very  weak  soda-water, 
then  in  warm,  and  finally  in  cold  water.  For  very 
dirty  garments  a  soap  washing  may  be  necessary  be- 
fore the  treatment  with  soda.  Hangings  and  uphol- 
stery must  first  be  worked  in  cold  water  to  free  them 
from  dust,  and  then  washed  with  soap  in  the  washing 
machine,  and  finally  rinsed  as  above  described.  The 
preliminary  washing  being  finished,  any  remaining 
stains  are  removed,  as  far  as  possible,  by  the  usual 
methods  before  the  dyeing  is  begun.  The  next  point 
is  to  strip  the  old  dyes  as  far  as  possible,  especially  if 
the  new  shade  is  to  be  medium  or  light.  In  many 
cases  boiling  in  plain  water  is  sufficient.     Woolens  may 


324      DRY    CI.EANHR,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

require  treatment  with  nitric  acid,  but  great  care  must 
be  taken  to  have  the  acid  sufficiently  diluted.  From 
3  to  4**  B^.  is  a  good  strength.  The  action,  too.  should 
not  be  extended  over  five  minutes,  or  the  wool  will  re- 
ceive too  i^ronounced  a  yellow  shade.  Rinsing  after 
the  action  of  the  acid  must  Ix;  ample  and  immediate. 
The  acid  bath  can  be  used  several  times  without 
renewal. 

A  very  large  number  of  receipts  for  dyeing  wool  could 
be  given,  but  only  such  have  been  selected  as  com- 
prise those  shades  which  a  dyer  is  most  frequently 
called  upon  to  dye. 

Black  on  wool.  a.  Jet  black.  Make  the  dye-bath 
with  6}^  ozs.  Acid  Black  S.  J  oz.  Wool  Yellow  G.  5 
ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  and  i  lb.  Glauber's  salt.  This 
bath  shows  how,  by  the  addition  of  a  little  yellow, 
the  blue  shade  may  be  changed  to  a  full  jet  black. 

b.  Dead  black.  Make  the  dye-bath  with  6>^  ozs. 
Buffalo  Chrome  Black  2BN,  i>2  ozs.  Alizarole  Yellow 
3G.  and  I  lb.  bisulphate  of  soda.  Work  at  the  boil 
for  I  hour,  then  lift,  add  5  ozs.  fluoride  of  chrome,  and 
work  again  at  the  boil  for  20  minutes. 

c.  Black  on  a  woolen  dress  with  silk  trimmings. 
To  dye  a  woolen  dress  with  silk  trimmings,  so  that 
both  the  wool  and  the  silk  shall  be  dyed  a  uniform 
shade  of  black  is  by  no  means  easy.  Cleanse  the 
dress  thoroughly  in  soap,  rinse  well,  and  pass  it  through 
an  acid  bath.  Next  make  a  hot  bath  with  copperas, 
I  lb.;  argol,  2  ozs.;  bluestone.  2  ozs.;  and  fustic  ex- 
tract. I  oz.  Allow  the  dress  to  steep  in  this  bath  for 
two  hours,  turning  it  over  at  intervals,   then  take  it 


GARMENT   DYEING.  325 

out,  expose  it  to  the  air  for  half  an  hour,  and  rinse 
in  water.  Prepare  a  dye-bath  with  lyi  lbs.  logwood 
and  I  oz.  soap;  enter  the  goods  into  this,  and  work 
for  15  minutes  at  the  boil,  then  allow  to  steep  in  the 
hot,  but  not  boiling,  bath  for  one  hour;  lift,  wash,  and 
dry.  As  a  rule,  the  best  results  will  be  obtained  when 
the  two  baths  are  used  under  the  boil. 

d.  Chromotrop  black.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  9 
ozs.  superchrome  Black  BN  Extra,  J^  oz.  Alizarine 
Yellow  GGW,  i  lb.  Glauber's  salt,  and  6}4  ozs.  sul- 
phuric acid.  Slowly  raise  to  the  boil  and  work  for  one 
hour;  then  add  to  the  same  dye- bath  5  ozs.  bichromate 
of  potash  and  i^  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  working  at  the 
boil  for  one  hour.     This  yields  a  jet  black. 

A  blue  black  is  obtained  by  using  a  bath  containing 
g}4  ozs.  superchrome  Black  6BP,  and  6)4  ozs.  sul- 
phuric acid.  Dye  and  develop  the  black  by  adding  to 
the  same  bath  5  ozs.  bichromate  of  potash  and  i}4  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid. 

Gray  on  wool.  a.  Silver  gray.  For  10  lbs.  of  goods 
dye  in  a  bath  containing  63  grains  of  Fast  Wool  Blue 
B,  35  grains  of  Fast  Light  Yellow,  14  grains  of  Azo 
Fuchsine,  i  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  4  ozs.  of  formic 
acid. 

b.  Dark  gray.  Prepare  a  bath  from  ^  lb.  logwood 
and  ^  lb.  galls.  Enter  the  goods  into  this  and  work 
for  half  an  hour  at  the  boil.  Then  lift,  add  }4  lb.  cop- 
peras, re-enter  the  goods,  and  work  for  half  an  hour 
longer. 

Scarlet  on  wool.  Make  the  dye-bath  with  2  ozs. 
Croceine  Scarlet  MOO  and  i  lb.  acetate  of  ammonia. 


326   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

This  gives  a  good  bright  shade  of  scarlet  which  is  fast 
to  acids. 

Crimson  on  wool.  a.  Dye  v^-ith  5  ozs.  of  Safranine 
and  lyi  lbs.  Glauber's  salt. 

b.  A  very  fine  shade  of  crimson  is  dyed  \\*ith  i  K  ozs. 
of  Fast  Acid  Violet  R,  10  ozs.  Glauber's  salt,  and  2  ozs. 
of  sulphuric  acid. 

Deep  red  on  wool.  Use  a  bath  containing  5  ozs.  of 
Union  Red  and  i  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt. 

Ponceau  on  wool.  Prepare  a  bath  u-ith  3  ozs.  Pon- 
ceau R,  I  lb.  Glauber's  salt,  and  ^14  ozs.  of  sulphuric 
acid.  Enter  the  goods  in  the  cold,  bring  to  the  boil 
and  work  to  shade;   wash  and  dr\'. 

Maroon  on  wool.  Make  a  dye-bath  with  i>^  ozs. 
of  Acid  Magenta,  2  ozs.  of  Orange  G,  }/2  lb.  of  indigo 
extract,  }4  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  4  ozs.  of  sulphuric 
acid.     Work  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

Clarei  on  wool.  Use  a  bath  containing  6>^  ozs. 
Archil  Substitute  X,  i  lb.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  of 
sulphuric  acid. 

Bright  red  on  wool.  A  good  shade  is  dyed  with  6}^ 
ozs.  Fast  Fuchsine  R,  and  i  lb.  of  bisulphate  of  soda. 

Orange  on  wool.  Dye  with  3  ozs.  of  Ponceau  3G,  i 
lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Yellow  on  wool.  Make  a  dye-bath  with  i  K  ozs.  Fast 
Yellow  FY,  1  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  of  sul- 
phuric acid,  working  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

Green  on  wool.  a.  Dark  green.  Make  a  dye-bath 
with  1 14  ozs.  of  Acid  Blue  G.  i '  2  ozs.  of  Azo  Yellow 
Y,  2  lbs.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  i  oz.  of  acetic  acid. 

6.  Sage  green.     Make  the  dye-bath  with  i  lb.  Glau- 


GARMENT    DYEING.  327 

ber's  salt,  3  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  3  ozs.  of  Azo  Yellow, 
and  i>2  ozs.  Patent  Blue  N,  working  at  the  boil. 

c.  Medium  green.  Use  a  dye-bath  containing  i  lb. 
of  indigo  extract,  2  ozs.  of  picric  acid,  i>2  ozs.  of  Acid 
Green,  %  lb.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  of  sulphuric 
acid,  working  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

d.  Olive  green.  Make  the  dye-bath  with  3  ozs.  of 
Acid  Green  B,  3  ozs.  of  Acid  Khaki  H,  i  lb.  of  Glau- 
ber's salt,  lyi  lbs.  of  bisulphate  of  soda.  Work  at  the 
boil  to  shade. 

Blue  on  wool.  a.  Bright  blue.  Prepare  a  bath  with 
3  ozs.  of  borax  and  lyi  ozs.  of  Alkali  Blue  B.  Enter 
the  goods  at  about  170°  F.,  then  heat  to  the  boil  and 
work  for  ^  hour.  Then  lift,  rinse  lightly,  and  pass 
through  a  weak  sour  bath  with  sulphuric  acid  to  raise 
the  color. 

h.  Dark  blue.  Prepare  a  dye-bath  with  3  ozs.  of 
Fast  Wool  Cyanole  3R,  i  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  3 
ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

c.  Navy  blue.  Prepare  a  dye-bath  with  2  ozs.  of 
Induline  A,  i  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  of  sul- 
phuric acid,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

Violet  on  wool.  a.  Pale  violet.  Prepare  a  dye-bath 
with  lyi  ozs.  of  Alkaline  Sapphire,  }i  oz.  of  Azo 
Rubine  B,  >2  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  >^  lb.  of  ace- 
tate of  ammonia,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

b.  Violet.  Make  the  dye-bath  with  3  ozs.  of  Wool 
Violet  4BS,  I  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  of  sul- 
phuric acid.  This  gives  a  pure  violet  shade.  If  Wool 
Violet  6BS  is  used,  a  bluer  shade  is  obtained. 

c.  Deep  violet.     A  fine  deep  shade  is  obtained  by 


328      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 

using  4>^  ozs.  of  Azo  Wool  Violet  4B.  4  ozs.  of  Fast 
Wool  Cyanine  3R,  i  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs. 
of  sulphuric  acid,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

d.  Majae.  Use  3  ozs.  Lanacyl  Violet  M,  i  lb.  Glau- 
ber's salt,  and  6  ozs.  of  acetic  acid. 

Brown  on  wool.  a.  Make  the  dye-bath  with  iK  ozs. 
Buffalo  Black  B,  3  ozs.  of  Erie  Brown  R,  and  2  lbs. 
Glauber's  salt,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour;  then 
lift,  wash,  and  dr>-. 

b.  Deep  brown.  Make  the  dye-bath  vriih  2}^  ozs. 
of  Acid  Orange  Y,  2  ozs.  of  Wool  Red  40F,  i  oz.  Fast 
Wool  Violet  B. 

c.  Olive-brown.  Make  a  dye-bath  vsnth  3  ozs.  sul- 
phuric acid,  I  lb.  Glauber's  salt,  i  H  ozs.  Azo  Fuchsine  G, 
^  oz.  Fast  Yellow,  and  ^4  oz.  Fast  Green  extra  bluish. 

DYEING    MIXED    COTTON    AND    WOOL    GOODS. 

A  large  quantity  of  fabrics  for  men's  suits  are  now 
made  from  wool  and  cotton.  The  garment  dyer  will 
obtain  the  best  results  in  dyeing  such  goods  by  using 
union  dyes,  it  being  chiefly  necessarv*  that  a  little  at- 
tention be  paid,  particularly  to  goods  in  which  the 
cotton  either  appears  on  the  surface  forfning  a  de- 
sign, or  is  spun  or  t\\nsted  together  with  the  wool. 
The  direct  dyes  work,  as  a  rule,  on  the  two  fibers 
with  equal  facility,  especially  if  the  dye-bath  contains 
rather  more  Glauber's  salt  than  usual.  The  direct  dyes 
are  also  of  considerable  ser\nce,  either  used  alone  or 
with  the  addition  of  a  wool  dye,  to  shade  off  the  wool 
part  of  the  garment  to  the  color  of  the  cotton. 


GARMENT    DYEING.  329 

Black,  a.  For  10  lbs.  of  goods  consisting  of  mixed 
material  use  8  ozs.  of  Nacco  Union  Black,  4  ozs.  of 
Neutral  Wool  Black,  i}4  ozs.  of  Erie  Yellow  CG,  2 
ozs.  of  Azo  Wool  Violet  4B,  and  i  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt 
for  each  10  gallons  of  the  dye  liquor. 

If  desired  the  goods  may  be  subjected  after  dyeing 
to  a  treatment  with  alimi,  or,  better,  bichromate  of 
potash.  The  goods  after  being  dyed  are  rinsed  and 
then  passed  into  a  bath,  at  a  temperature  of  140°  F., 
containing  3  lbs.  bichromate  of  potash  and  i}4  to  2 
ozs.  sulphuric  acid.  After  being  chromed  in  this  bath 
for  about  half  an  hour  they  are  washed  well.  This 
chroming  thoroughly  fixes  the  color  on  the  cotton,  and 
it  will  not  change  while  being  finished  either  by  steam- 
ing or  hot  pressing. 

b.  A  very  fine  black  can  be  obtained  for  10  lbs. 
of  goods  from  5  ozs.  of  Direct  Black  cone,  3^  ozs.  of 
Union  Black,  i  oz.  of  Neutral  Black,  J/^  oz.  of  Acid 
Violet  S4B,  chroming  after  dyeing  as  explained  above. 

Dark  blue.  For  10  lbs.  of  union  material,  2  ozs. 
of  Fast  Wool  Cyanone  R,  2  ozs.  Diamine  Black  DB 
extra,  i}4  ozs.  Niagara  Blue  DE,  and  }4  lb.  of  Glau- 
ber's salt  for  each  lo  gallons  of  the  dye  liquor. 

Dark  brown.  For  10  lbs  of  goods  use  6  ozs.  of  Union 
Seal  Brown,  3  ozs.  of  Diamine  Black  DB  extra,  1}^  ozs. 
of  Indian  Yellow,  1^4  ozs.  of  Acid  Orange,  i  oz.  of  Cloth 
Red  G,  }4  oz.  of  Indigo  Carmine  Blue,  and  from  }4  to 
I  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt  per  10  gallons  of  dye  liquor. 

Scarlet.  For  a  dye-bath  of  25  gallons  use  i}^  lbs. 
of  Benzopur purine  4B,  ^  oz.  of  Ponceau  3RB,  ^  lb. 
of  Indian  Yellow,  and  2  lbs.  of  Glauber's  salt. 


330      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Crimson.  For  5  gallons  of  dye  liquor  use  2  lbs.  of 
Glauber's  salt.  '4  lb.  of  Congo  Corinth  G.  i  lb.  of 
Benzopurjjurine  10  B  and  I4  lb.  of  Curcumine  S. 

The  so-called  union  colors  are  now  manufactured 
in  this  countr\-.  Even,-  desired  shade  can  be  obtained 
by  the  projjer  mixing  of  these  colors.  These  dyes  are 
Union  Orange,  Union  Red.  Union  Scarlet.  Union 
Bro\\Ti.  Union  Khaki.  Union  Green.  Union  Blue.  Union 
Violet,  and  Union  Black.  They  are  dyed  in  a  neutral 
bath  containing  i  lb.  of  Glauber's  salt  for  pale  shades, 
and  2  lbs.  of  Glauber's  salt  for  mediimi  and  dark 
shades  per  10  gallons  of  dye  liquor.  The  Union  colors 
are  mixtures  of  substantive  or  direct  colors  and  neutral 
dyeing  wool  colors.  If  the  cotton  is  too  light,  as  is 
often  the  case,  the  bath  is  cooled  dovs-n  and  a  proper 
amount  of  a  substantive  coloring  matter  is  added  which 
will  almost  wholly  go  on  the  cotton  at  a  low  temperature. 

DYEING  OF  COTTON  GOODS. 

Cotton  fabrics  generally  contain  a  size,  which  fills 
or  envelops  the  fiber  and  thus  impedes  the  uniform 
reception  of  the  new  coloring  matter.  Before  dyeing, 
the  com])lete  removal  of  these  foreign  substances  be- 
comes, therefore,  necessar>'.  Simple  wetting  or  \N-ash- 
ing  in  a  soda-bath  is  not  sufficient  for  this  purpose.  A 
reliable  method  for  the  removal  of  the  size  is  as  fol- 
lows: Boil  22  lbs.  of  the  fabric  with  3>i  lbs.  of  soda 
for  one  hour.  Rinse,  then  work  in  a  hot  moderately 
sour  sulphuric  acid-bath  for  10  minutes,  and  rinse* 
thoroughly. 


GARMENT    DYEING.  33  I 

With  the  introduction  of  the  direct  dyes,  cotton 
dyeing  has  become  even  more  simple  than  wool  or 
silk  dyeing,  and  now  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  prepare 
a  dye  liquor  containing  the  necessary  amount  of  dye- 
stuff  and  Glauber's  salt,  or  common  salt,  or  soda,  or 
similar  body,  or  a  combination  thereof.  The  method 
now  working  is  to  place  the  goods  in  a  lukewarm,  or 
even  a  hot,  bath,  raise  to  the  boil,  allow  the  goods  to 
remain  in  the  boiling  bath  for  half  an  hour,  then  take 
them  out,  wring,  wash,  and  dry.  This  method  is  sim- 
ple, and  will  answer  for  all  direct  dyes.  There  are 
some  that  do  not  require  the  working  to  be  done  boil- 
ing, it  being  only  necessary  to  enter  the  goods  into  a 
boiling  bath  and  work  without  heat  or  steam  until  the 
bath  has  cooled  down.  Furious  boiling  is  not  needed, 
a  gentle  simmering  giving  the  best  results.  An  enor- 
mous variety  of  shades  and  tints  can  be  combined  to- 
gether in  every  conceivable  manner  and  proportion. 

Although  cotton  dresses  are  but  seldom  brought  to 
the  professional  garment  dyer,  such  dresses  being  in 
most  cases  scarcely  considered  worth  the  trouble  of 
re-dyeing,  a  few  receipts  for  dyeing  with  direct  colors 
are  here  given.  The  formulas  are  intended  for  lo  lbs. 
weight  of  goods. 

Scarlet  on  cotton.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  4f  ozs. 
Direct  Fast  Red,  j  oz.  Direct  Orange  Y,  5  lbs.  salt. 
"Work  at  the  boil  for  30  minutes,  then  lift,  wash,  and 
dry. 

Crimson  red  on  cotton.  Make  a  dye-bath  with  6f 
ozs.  Erie  Crimson  B,  and  5  lbs.  salt.  Work  at  the 
boil  for  50  minutes,  then  lift,  wash,  and  dry. 


332      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Pink  on  cotton.  Make  the  dye-bath  w-ith  yi  oz. 
Erie  Pink  2B,  8  ozs.  salt,  and  4!  ozs.  soda. 

Claret  on  cotton.  Dye  w-ith  2I  ozs.  Direct  Garnet, 
4 J  ozs.  soda,  and  2  lbs.  salt.  Work  at  the  boil  for 
one  hour. 

Maroon  on  cotton.  Dye  vsnth  4I  ozs.  Direct  Garnet, 
4I  ozs.  soda,  and  2  lbs.  salt.  Work  at  the  boil  for 
one  hour. 

Salmcni  on  cotton.  Dye  unth  >^  oz.  Direct  Fast  Pink 
Y  and  10  ozs.  common  salt,  working  at  the  boil  for 
one  hour. 

Yelloii' on  cotton.  Make  the  dye-bath  unth  1}  ozs. 
Crysophenine  and  r  lb.  salt.  Heat  to  180**  F.,  enter 
the  goods,  raise  to  boiling,  and  dye  for  one  hour;  lift, 
wash,  and  dry. 

Orange  on  cotton.  Use  a  dye-bath  containing  4I 
ozs.  Erie  Orange  2R.  and  aj^  lbs.  salt.  Work  at  the 
boil  for  one  hour. 

Green  on  cotton.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  3^  ozs. 
Direct  Green  C,  i  lb.  Glauber's  salt.  Enter  luke- 
warm, bring  slowly  to  the  boil;  dye  for  one  hour  at 
the  boil. 

Blue  on  cotton.  Use  a  dye-bath  containing  6|  ozs. 
Niagara  Blue  3B,  3!  ozs.  soda,  1^2  lbs.  Glauber's 
salt.     Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

Violet  on  cotton.  Make  the  dye-bath  with  i^  ozs. 
Erie  Violet  BW,  i }  ozs.  soda,  and  i  lb.  Glauber's 
salt,  and  dye  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

BroiL'n  on  cottott.  a.  Use  6|  ozs.  Erie  Brown  GB, 
2  lbs.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  J  ozs.  soda.  Dye  at  the 
boil  for  an  hour. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  333 

b.  Light  brown.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  4!  ozs. 
Direct  Brown  Y,  4!  ozs.  soda,  i}4  lbs.  Glauber's  salt. 

c.  Dark  brown.  Use  a  dye-bath  containing  8  ozs. 
Direct  Dark  Brown,  4I  ozs.  soda,  i)4  lbs.  Glauber's 
salt.     Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

Black  on  cotton.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  8  ozs. 
Erie  Black  GXOO,  2  lbs.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs. 
soda.     Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

Deep  black.  Prepare  the  dye-bath  with  8j  ozs. 
Erie  Black  NR,  extra,  3i  ozs.  soda,  2  lbs.  Glauber's 
salt.     Dye  for  one  hour  at  the  boil,  lift,  rinse,  and  dry. 

Gray  on  cotton.  By  using  the  direct  blacks  in  pro- 
portions var\4ng  from  3<4  to  i  per  cent,  of  the  dyestuff 
to  the  weight  of  the  goods,  they  give  grays  of  various 
tints  and  depths. 

DYEING     COTTON     AND     LINEN     GARMENTS     CONTAINING 
JUTE. 

Fabrics  used  for  these  articles  consist  usually  of  a 
cotton  or  linen  warp  and  a  jute  weft.  They  require 
considerable  care  in  dyeing,  as  the  jutes  has  a  much 
greater  affinity  for  nearly  every  known  dye  than  either 
linen  or  cotton.  Jute,  for  example,  can  be  dyed  di- 
rect with  basic  dyes  in  an  alum  bath  without  previous 
mordanting,  the  bath  exhausting  well,  while  cotton 
or  linen  must  first  be  mordanted  to  get  even  medium 
and  particularly  dark  shades  with  a  basic  dye.  In 
dyeing  mixtures  of  cotton  and  linen  with  jute  black, 
for  instance,  with  a  basic  dyestuff,  the  weft  will  come 
out  black,  while  the  warp  remains  a  dark  gray  at  the 


334   r^RY  CLEANER,  SCOURER.  GARMENT  DYER. 

best.  The  most  common  colors  for  these  mixed 
goods  are  blacks,  reds,  blues,  and  yellows,  mixed  and 
mode  shades  being  less  usual.  The  dyes  most  in  use 
for  pure  jute  are  Coal  Black,  Victoria  Blue,  Croceine 
Scarlet,  and  Auramine  Yellow,  but  they  are  quite  un- 
suitable for  mixtures  of  jute  \N'ith  cotton  and  linen. 
For  them,  direct  or  substantive  dyes  are  best,  such  as 
Direct  Black,  cone.  Benzopurpurine  4B.  EHrect  BJue 
2B,  and  Chr>'sophenine.  Even  these  go  somewhat 
deeper  onto  jute  than  onto  cotton  or  linen.  The 
remedy  for  all  these  difficulties  is  to  mix  the  dye  with 
the  dressing.  All  the  three  fibers  are  then  dyed  alike, 
but  the  exact  quantity  of  dye  to  take  must  be  accu- 
rately judged.  Too  much  d>'e  causes  a  bronzing  of  the 
color  of  the  jute,  while,  if  there  is  any  deficiency  of  dye, 
the  leveling  is  lost  and  the  cotton  or  linen  comes  out 
paler  than  the  iute.  The  following  receipt  has  stood 
the  test  of  prolonged  trial  very  satisfactorily  for  black. 

Wheat  starch,  2}^  lbs.;  50  per  cent.  Turkey-red  oil, 
i^albs.;  Erie  Black  XR,  extra,  i K  lbs.;  Direct  Green 
C,  8  ozs. ;  Glauber's  salt.  3  lbs.;  carbonate  of  soda, 
8  ozs.;   tallow,  4I  ozs.;   water.  10  gallons. 

Pass  the  goods  slowly  through  this  size  at  a  tem- 
perature of  from  176°  to  iQ4°  F..  and  dr>'  immediately. 
Not  only  is  the  color  good,  but  much  lalxir  is  saved. 
Any  direct  dye  can  be  applied  in  size  in  a  similar  way. 


X. 


STRIPI'ING   COLORS    FROM    GARMENTS   AND   FABRICS. 

The  garment  dyer  has  generally  to  deal  with  gar- 
ments that  are  still  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation,  but 
that  have  faded  colors.  This  color  has  to  be  restored 
or  a  darker  shade  dyed,  but  in  some  cases  the  customer 
will  require  that  a  lighter  shade  be  dyed,  in  which 
case  it  is  necessary  to  remove  the  old  color  before  a 
lighter  one  can  be  applied.  In  very  many  cases  it  is 
unsatisfactory  and  dangerous  to  attempt  to  remove 
the  old  color  from  a  garment,  and  as  a  rule  garment 
dyers  are  adverse  to  doing  any  stripping,  dyeing  only 
such  colors  as  may  be  dyed  over  the  old  color.  How- 
ever, regardless  of  his  feeling  in  this  matter,  or  his 
business  policy  in  this  respect,  he  should  have  a  knowl- 
edge of  how  to  strip  old  colors,  for  it  sometimes  hap- 
pens that  he  must  resort  to  it  for  one  reason  or  another. 
In  any  event  he  should  understand  that  stripping  is 
very  hable  to  injure  the  fabric,  and  that  the  operation 
must  be  carried  out  with  due  regard  for  the  material 
being  treated. 

Stripping  is  generally  done  by  working  according  to 
one  of  the  following  methods: 

I.  For  all-wool  and  half -wool  goods.  Prepare  a  bath 
(335) 


336      DRY    CLEANHR,    SCOLRFR,    GARMFNT   DVFR. 

having  a  temperature  of  from  ioo°  to  120**  F.,  contain- 
ing from  5  to  10  per  cent,  of  soda  ash,  or  an  equal 
amount  of  ammonia.  Soak  the  material  in  this  bath 
for  from  20  to  30  minutes  and  then  rinse  well.  The 
goods  are  then  boiled  for  a  short  time  in  water  to 
which  some  wheat  bran  has  been  added.  In  some  in- 
stances the  goods  are  also  soured  ofl  hot  with  sulphuric 
or  hydrochloric  acid  and  rinsed  thoroughly. 

2.  Method  for  stripping  goods  dyed  unth  aniline  colors. 
Enter  the  woolen  goods  or  other  material  that  has  pre- 
viously been  scoured  into  a  cold  or  lukewarm  solution 
of  from  }4  to  I  lb.  of  soda  ash  in  10  gallons  of  water. 
Keep  the  material  in  this  bath  for  a  short  time,  after 
which  rinse  them  well.  This  preliminary  treatment 
will  strip  a  large  number  of  aniline  dyes.  Subsequent 
stripping  may  be  done  with  Ronzalite,  Strippcne,  Dye 
Skat,  or  a  similar  commercial  stripping  preparation. 
Wood  vessels  should  be  used  in  which  to  do  the  work, 
and  to  prevent  spots  and  stains  all  exposed  steam- 
pipes  should  be  wrapped  with  cloths. 

From  3  to  5  ozs.  of  Ronzalite,  or  other  commercial 
preparation,  should  be  used,  the  amount  var>nng  with 
the  nature  and  the  color  to  be  removed.  In  each  case 
acetic  acid  should  be  added  to  the  stripping-bath. 
The  amount  of  acid  to  use  should  be  double  the  amount 
of  the  stripping  preparation. 

Before  using  Ronzalite  it  is  dissolved  in  wann  water. 
The  stripper  and  the  acetic  acid  are  then  added  to 
the  bath  at  the  same  time.  The  bath  should  be  luke- 
warm and  should  be  kept  concentrated.  Enter  the 
goods  and  slowly  raise  the  bath  to  the  boil  and  keep  it 


STRIPPING    COLORS.  337 

at  this  temperature  for  from  >^  to  ^  hours.  At  the 
end  of  this  time  remove  the  goods  and  rinse  them  well. 
Dye  Skat  will  not  dissolve  in  cold  water,  and  is 
added  to  the  bath  after  it  has  been  brought  to  the 
boil. 

3.  Stripping  with  bichromate  of  potash  a'nd  sulphuric 
acid.  The  commercial  stripping*  preparations  men- 
tioned above  exert  little  effect  on  the  colors  of  woolen 
goods  that  have  been  dyed  with  the  natural  dyestuffs, 
such  as  log^'ood,  fustic,  etc.  In  this  case  the  best  re- 
sults are  obtained  by  boiling  the  material  for  from  >i 
to  >^. hour  in  a  bath  made  up  as  follows:  From  3^2  to 
6  ozs.  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  from  7  to  10  ozs.  of 
sulphirric  acid.  In  place  of  sulphuric  acid  an  equal 
amount  of  oxalic  acid  ma}-  be  used. 

4.  Stripping  with  hoi  nitric  acid.  There  is  grave 
danger  of  tendering  the  goods  when  using  dilute  nitric 
acid  for  stripping  purposes,  and  its  use  should  be  re- 
sorted to  only  in  extreme  cases.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  see  that  the  acid  is  sufficiently  diluted  before 
the  goods  are  placed  in  the  bath.  Nitric  acid  is  used 
for  stripping  woolen  and  silk  goods  only.  Its  use  can- 
not be  recommended  to  one  who  has  had  no  experience 
in  its  use. 

5.  Stripping  silk  and  half-silk.  Boil  the  material  to 
be  stripped  for  about  an  hour  in  a  soap-bath  containing 
^2  lb.  of  soap  per  10  gallons  of  water,  and  rinse.  If 
the  stripping  is  not  satisfactory  one  of  the  commercial 
stripping  preparations  such  as  mentioned  above  should 
be  used. 

Hydrosulphite,    the    active    agent    of    commercial 


33^      DRY   CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

Strippers,  is  a  very  effective  stripj^er  for  all  dyes  except 
indigo.  The  action  of  hydrosulphite  decolorized  this 
dye,  but  the  color  returns  when  the  garment  is  ex- 
posed to  the  air.  Tendering  of  the  fabric  when 
hydrosulphite  is  used  is  not  so  evident  when  the 
teiTii^erature  of  the  bath  is  kept  do\%Ti  to  120°  to 
140°  F.,  but,  unfortunately,  a  good  strip  will  not 
often  be  had  at  these  temperatures,  and  boiling  must 
be  resorted  to. 

There  are  a  number  of  hydrosulphite  compounds  on 
the  market,  and  there  is  seldom  any  occasion  for  the 
dyer  to  make  his  own.  However,  should  he  desire 
to  do  so  he  may  proceed  as  follows:  Bisulphite  of 
soda  and  zinc  powder  are  required.  Thirteen  ounces 
of  zinc  are  stirred  into  each  gallon  of  the  bisulphite. 
The  liquor  heats  up  as  the  zinc  is  stirred  into  it,  and  the 
vessel  containing  the  bisulphite  should  be  kept  in  cold 
water.  The  zinc  should  be  slowly  stirred  in  until  no 
further  odor  of  sulphur  is  given  off.  The  mixture  then 
should  be  allowed  to  settle,  and  the  clear  liquor  drawn 
off  for  stripping  use.  The  comix)und  is  not  stable 
and  readily  absorbs  oxygen  from  the  air.  It  should 
be  kept  in  tightly  corked  bottles. 

Low-class  unions,  such  as  are  now  used  extensively 
for  men's  suitings,  are  difficulc  to  strip  vsnthout  damag- 
ing them.  The  ordinary  strip  in  a  strong  bath  of 
chromic  acid  is  often  used  for  this  class  of  goods. 
This  is  made  by  boiling  bichromate  of  soda  with  sul- 
phuric acid.  The  usual  percentage  is  five  on  the  weight 
of  the  goods.  The  stripping-bath  is  raised  to  the  boil, 
the  goods  entered  and  the  boiling  continued  for  ten 


STRIPPING    COLORS.  339 

minutes,  which  is  sufficient  to  strip  off  the  dye  down 
to  a  light  brown.  Continued  boiUng  will  serve  only  to 
tender  the  goods.  A  thorough  washing  in  cold  water 
should  be  given  the  goods  as  soon  as  they  are  removed 
from  the  stripping-bath  to  free  them  from  acid. 


XI. 


ANALYSIS    OF    TEXTILE    FABRICS. 

The  dyer  and  cleaner  should  be  able  to  analyze 
cloth  by  simple  means.  Linen,  silk,  and  wool  are 
largely  adulterated  with  cotton,  and  all  these  fibers 
behave  diiTerently  even  in  ordinan-  washing.  More- 
over, the  varieties  of  unions  and  mixture  cloths  are 
constantly  increasing,  and  in  these  days  of  merceriza- 
tion  and  other  processes,  the  sight  and  touch  are  not 
sufficient  to  identify  a  material.  Also,  now  that 
cellulose  is  being  so  largely  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  artificial  silk  or  lustra -cellulose,  it  is  often  impor- 
tant to  be  able  to  decide  the  particular  form  of  the 
cellulose  employed  in  their  formation — i.  e.,  whether 
the  fibers  are  derived  from  nitro-compounds,  pure 
cellulose,  or  mixed  in  origin,  as  when  associated  \\nth 
gelatine  or  dissolved  silk,  and  woven  along  \i\\\\  wool. 

In  determining  these  various  points  there  are  now 
a  number  of  methods  which  enable  all  these  various 
questions  to  be  ver\'  easily  decided,  and  a  complete 
analysis  of  any  fabric  containing  mixed  fibers  or  any 
mixture  of  fibers  can  thus  be  made.  As  a  rule,  in 
examining  any  mixture  of  textile  fibers  for  ordinary 
(340; 


ANALYSIS    OF   TEXTILE    FABRICS.  34I 

purposes,  it  is  only  necessan-  to  distinguish  between 
wool  and  other  animal  fibers,  and  cotton,  flax,  jute, 
hemp,  and  ramie  in  vegetable  fibers,  and  silk,  culti- 
vated, wild,  and  artificial,  as  these  are  almost  all  the 
fibers  in  general  use. 

The  means  employed  are  of  two  kinds: 

1.  Mechanical,  in  which  the  specific  differences  in 
structure,  as  revealed  under  the  microscope,  are  seen; 
and 

2 .  Chanical,  in  which  the  distinctive  colors  and  other 
reactions,  when  treated  \^'ith  various  reagents  are  em- 
ployed, or  the  variation  in  solubility  or  degree  of 
solubility  in  different  reagents.  Also  the  difference 
in  degree  of  inflammability  or  beha\'ior  when  subjected 
to  various  degrees  of  heat. 

Mechanical  analysis.  When  the  fibers  are  placed 
under  the  microscope,  especially  with  transmitted  light, 
and  with  powers  varying  from  20  to  500  diameters, 
which  is  well  within  the  range  of  any  ordinary-  cheap, 
yet  reliable,  microscope,  the  following  distinctions  are 
usually  clearly  \nsible: 

Cotton.  This  fiber  appears  under  the  microscope  as 
a  granular  striped  band,  mostly  twisted  in  the  shape 
of  a  corkscrew,  which  is  more  particularly  e^^dent 
when  the  fiber  is  moistened  with  water.  The  fiber  is 
a  flattened  cylindric  tube  with  thickened  walls. 

Flax  consists  of  the  bast  fibers  from  the  plants  of 
the  Linum  family.  Under  the  microscope  the  flax 
fiber  appears  as  a  long,  straight,  cylindrical  tube  of 
uniform  thickness,  either  smooth  or  longitudinally 
striated,  and  frequently  exiiibiting  transverse  cracks. 


342   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

In  many  places  it  presents  nodes  and  displacements, 
which  cause  it  to  look  as  though  articulated. 

Hetnp.  Examined  under  the  microscope  the  fiber 
of  hemp  is  ver>'  similar  to  flax,  exhibiting  displace- 
ments, longitudinal  fissures,  and  transverse  cracks;  ' 
but  it  is  less  regular  in  thickTiess.  The  ends  of  the 
fibers  are  ver>'  characteristic,  being  very  thick-walled 
and  blimt,  frequently  branching  sideways  and  thus 
affording  a  ready  means  of  distinguishing  this  fiber 
from  flax. 

Jute.  In  microscopic  structure  jute  fiber  exhibits 
a  certain  similarity  to  hemp  and  flax,  but  the  longi- 
tudinal \'iew  shows  neither  displacement  nor  striations. 

Silk.  Under  the  microscope  the  silk  fiber  exhibits 
the  appearance  of  a  clear,  c>-lindrical  double  thread 
enclosed  in  a  cloudy  integument.  It  appears  smooth 
and  free  from  scales. 

Tussah  silk.  Under  the  microscope  this  variety  of 
silk  exhibits  a  highly  characteristic  appearance,  dif- 
fering greatly  from  cultivated  silk,  the  fibers  showing 
strong  striation  and  being  apparently  much  constricted 
in  parts.  Unlike  true  silk,  the  fiber  is  iiot  of  circular 
cross  section,  but  of  elongated  quadrilateral  form. 

Artificial  silk  or  lustra-ccllulosc  is,  in  appearance, 
under  the  microscope  very  similar  to  silk,  but  it  does 
not  exhibit  the  double  strand  of  the  cultivated  silk, 
or  the  flattened  and  striated  appearance  of  Tussah 
silk. 

Wool.  \\Tien  a  fiber  of  sheep's  wool  is  examined 
under  the  microscope,  it  is  seen  to  consist  of  three 
parts,  distinguished  respeotively  as  the  scaly  epider- 


ANALYSIS    OF   TEXTILE    FABRICS.  343 

mis,  the  cortex,  and  the  medulla  or  pith.  The  outer 
scaly  epidermis  is  composed  of  thin  homy  scales  lying 
one  above  the  other  like  the  tiles  of  a  roof.  In  the 
finer  qualities  of  wool  a  single  scale  is  generally  suffi- 
cient to  entirely  surround  the  wool  hair,  so  that  the 
latter  seem  to  be  formed  of  a  number  of  cups  set  one 
within  another,  the  upper  of  each  scale  being  also  gen- 
erally projecting,  ragged,  and  serrated.  The  scales 
form  the  chief  external  characteristics  of  sheep's  wool, 
and  render  its  detection  under  the  microscope  an  easy 
task. 

Hair  differs  in  appearance  from  wool,  in  so  much 
as  though  it  is  usually  covered  with  similar  scales  on 
the  surface  of  the  hair,  they  are  always  more  closely 
adherent  to  the  shaft  of  the  hair  and  the  edges  are  not 
turned  outwards.  Alpaca,  vicugna,  Cashmere  goat 
hair,  all  closely  resemble  each  other  and  mohair  in 
having  the  scales  more  closely  adherent  to  the  shafts 
of  hair  than  in  the  true  wools.  The  hair  of  almost  every 
class  of  animals  has  distinctive  features,  in  the  form 
and  arrangement  of  the  surface  scales  or  the  internal 
cells. 

Chemical  analysis.  There  are  many  intricate  and 
elaborate  means  of  chemically  examining  fibers  and 
fabrics,  but  they  are  too  troublesome  for  the  use  of 
the  cleaner  and  dyer,  and  we  shall  therefore  confine 
ourselves  to  those  which  are  more  easily  attainable. 

A  very  ready  method  of  distinguishing  between 
fibers  of  vegetable  and  animal  origin  is  the  way  in 
which  they  bum  when  a  flame  is  applied  to  them. 

Vegetable  fibers,  when  dry,  all  ignite  and  bum  with 


344   PR'^*  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

a  comparatively  bright,  smokeless  and  odorless  flame, 
and  leave  ven'  little  ash.  If  the  flame  is  extinguished 
before  the  whole  of  the  fiber  or  thread  is  consumed, 
the  fiber  is  burnt  off  sharply  at  the  end,  and  leaves  a 
blackened  or  carbonized  edge  where  the  burning 
ceased. 

Animal  fibers,  even  when  dr>',  and  imless  containing 
an  amount  of  extraneous  fat  or  oil,  are  more  difficult 
to  ignite,  and  unless  the  mass  is  large,  the  flame  vnVi 
frequently  go  out  if  the  fiber  is  held  horizontally, 
although  if  held  vertically,  and  lighted  at  the  bottom 
it  may  continue  to  bum  without  a  fresh  application 
of  the  fire.  The  flame  is  usually  more  or  less  dull 
and  lifeless,  and  bums  slowly,  with  emission  of  a 
disagreeable  emp>Teumatic  odor,  resembling  the  smell 
of  burning  feathers,  and  when  extinguished  the  burnt 
edge  is  not  clear  and  sharp,  but  fused  into  a  rounded 
beadlike  form,  which  retains  the  odor  and  feels  sticky 
if  crushed  between  the  thumb  and  fingers. 

Cellulose  forms  the  basis  of  all  vegetable  textile 
fibers  (cotton,  flax.  hemp.  etc.).  and  they,  therefore, 
vigorously  resist  the  action  of  even  boiling-hot  aque- 
ous solutions  of  the  caustic  alkalies,  while  they  are 
stronglv  attacked  by  heated  sulphuric,  nitric,  and 
hydrochloric  acids,  either  in  a  concentrated  or  diluted 
state.  Thus,  for  instance,  a  cotton  fabric  may.  vsith- 
out  suffering  great  injur>'.  be  immersed  in  cold  water 
containing  5  to  10  per  cent,  of  acid;  but  on  heating 
the  fluid,  especially  to  the  boiling-point,  the  cotton  in 
a  short  time  becomes  friable  and  dissolves. 

Fuming  nitric  acid,  or  a  mixture  of  nitric  and  sul- 


ANALYSIS    OF   TEXTILE    FABRICS.  345 

phuric  acids,  does  not  dissolve  the  vegetable  fiber, 
but  converts  it,  almost  without  changing  its  physical 
appearance,  into  guncotton. 

Ammonia,  either  at  the  ordinary  or  a  raised  tem- 
perature, produces  no  effect  upon  cotton  and  hemp. 
However,  a  solution  of  ammonia-oxide  of  copper 
(Schweitzer's  reagent)  dissolves  cotton,  hemp,  and  flax. 

In  a  pure  state,  vegetable  textile  fibers  have  but  a 
feeble  affinity  for  artificially  prepared  coloring  m.at- 
ters,  they  being  but  sHghtly  or  not  at  all  dyed  by 
them,  and  the  application  of  a  little  soap  suffices  to 
remove  the  dye.  They  do  not  evolve  a  characteristic 
odor  in  burning. 

Wool,  on  the  other  hand,  resists  the  action  of  even 
concentrated  and  hot  acids  quite  well,  but  is  dissolved, 
especially  at  a  higher  temperature,  by  caustic  lyes. 
Since  wool  contains  sulphur,  there  is  formed  by  its 
solution  in  caustic  soda  a  fluid  which  contains  alkaline 
sulphide  and  sulphydrate,  which  are  indicated  by  a 
beautiful  violet  tint  produced  by  the  addition  of  nitro- 
prusside  of  sodium.  Nitric  acid  imparts  to  wool  an 
intense  yellow  color;  chlorine  and  hypochlorites  act  in 
a  similar  manner,  they  also  imparting  to  wool  a  yellow 
color.  At  the  ordinary  temperature  Schweitzer's  re- 
agent has  no  effect  on  wool,  but  when  heated  dissolves 
it.  When  decomposed  by  heat,  wool  evolves  the  char- 
acteristic odor  of  burnt  horn.  It  possesses  great  affinity 
for  coloring  matters,  especially  for  those  artificially 
prepared,  by  which  it  is  readily  dyed  without  a  mor- 
dant. 

Silk,    when  burned,  evolves  an  odor  similar  to  wool. 


346   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

It  is  dissolved,  especially  at  higher  temperatures,  by 
the  above-mentioned  acids  in  a  concentrated  state. 
Cold  nitric  acid  colors  silk  yellow.  Acids  diluted  with 
water  do  not  act  very  vigorously  upon  silk.  Concen- 
trated alkaline  lyes  dissolve  it.  but  the  solution  does 
not  contain  alkaline  sulphide  like  that  of  wool.  Silk 
is  changed,  but  not  dissolved,  by  very  dilute  alkaline 
lyes.  Ammonia  produces  no  effect  on  it.  while  Schweit- 
zer's reagent  dissolves  it.  The  affinity  of  silk  for 
coloring  matter  is  the  same  as  that  of  wool. 

To  establish  the  presence  of  vegetable  fibers  (cotton. 
hemp,  fia.x,  jute,  etc.)  in  a  tissue  consisting  of  wool  and 
silk,  it  is  only  necessary  to  boil  the  latter  in  a  test- 
fluid  containing  33^  ozs.  solid  caustic  soda  in  one 
quart  of  water.  Weigh  out  accurately  yi  to  i  drachm 
of  the  fabric  to  be  examined;  introduce  this  sample, 
together  with  ys  quart  of  the  soda-lye,  into  a  por- 
celain casserole  of  about  i  pint  capacity,  and  boil  it 
over  an  alcohol  or  gas  flame  for  five  minutes.  If  the 
mass  dissolves,  it  consists  only  of  animal  fiber  (silk 
or  wool),  but  if  it  is  not  entirely  dissolved,  take  the 
casserole  from  the  fire,  allow  to  settle,  pour  off  the 
supernatant  lye,  and  after  adding  fresh  lye,  boil  again 
for  five  minutes.  If  a  residue  now  remains,  it  consists 
entirely  of  vegetable  fiber.  If  the  vegetable  fiber  is 
colored,  the  residue  is  brought  upon  a  small  cotton 
filter  and  washed  with  hot  water.  The  washed  fiber 
is  then  brought  into  lukewarm  water  acidulated  with 
about  5  per  cent,  hydrochloric  acid.  After  ten  minutes 
add  a  little  chlorine  water,  or  a  few  drops  of  chloride 
of  lime  solution,  whereby  the  vegetable  fiber  is  bleached. 


ANALYSIS    OF   TEXTILE    FABRICS.  347 

The  filtrate  of  the  caustic  soda  solution,  which  contains 
wool  or  silk,  may  now  immediately  be  tested  as  to  the 
presence  of  wool.  If  the  latter  is  present,  alkaline 
sulphides  have  been  formed,  which  remain  in  the  solu- 
tion. They  can  be  immediately  detected  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  few  drops  of  acetate  of  lead  solution.  If  a 
white  precipitate  is  formed,  which  is  completely  dis- 
solved on  shaking,  silk  only  is  present;  however,  if  a 
black  precipitate  of  sulphide  of  lead  is  formed,  the 
tested  tissue  contains  wool.  Instead  of  acetate  of  lead 
solution,  a  few  drops  of  nitro-prusside  of  sodium  solu- 
tion may  be  used,  which,  as  previously  mentioned, 
produces  in  the  presence  of  alkaline  sulphides  a  beau- 
tiful violet  tint. 

If  the  tissue  is  provided  with  much  coloring  matter 
E.  Kopp  recommends  to  cut  the  sample  into  small 
pieces  and  immerse  the  latter,  with  occasional  stirring, 
for  five  minutes  in  a  mixture  of  2  voliimes  sulphuric 
acid  of  60°  Be.,  and  i  volume  fuming  nitric  acid  of 
60°  Be.  By  this  means  the  wool,  silk,  and  coloring 
matters  are  oxidized  and  destroyed,  while  the  vege- 
table fiber  is  converted  into  guncotton,  and  retains 
its  characteristic  fibrous  nature.  The  whole  is  then 
brought  into  a  comparatively  large  quantity  of  water, 
in  which  the  guncotton  deposits.  The  fluid  is  then 
poured  off,  while  the  residue  is  collected  upon  a  filter, 
thoroughly  washed,  and  dried.  The  dry'  residue  now 
shows  the  explosive  property  of  guncotton. 

For  testing  white,  or  not  too  dark-colored,  mixed 
tissues,  the  affinity  of  the  animal  fibers  for  the  arti- 
ficially prepared  coloring  matters  may  also  be  utilized. 


348   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER 

Dark-colored  tissues  must  first  be  decolorized  by  treat- 
ment with  weak  chlorine  water,  and  subsequent 
thorough  ^^•ashing  in  boiling  water.  Certain  precau- 
tions have,  however,  to  be  obser\'ed.  since  cotton, 
especially  when  impregnated  with  amylaceous  or  other 
substances  ser\-ing  for  sizing,  may  also  be  dyed  with 
aniline  colors  These  substances  must  first  be  re- 
moved, and  for  this  purpose  the  tissue  is  first  boiled 
for  ten  minutes  in  water  which  contains  in  loo  parts  2 
parts  of  carbonate  of  soda  and  a  little  soap.  The  tis- 
sue is  then  rinsed  in  hot  water,  next  steeped  for  five  to 
ten  minutes  in  water  of  120"  to  140°  F..  which  contains 
2  per  cent,  of  hydrochloric  or  sulphuric  acid,  and  finally 
thoroughly  washed.  In  the  meanwhile  prepare  a  dye- 
bath  by,  for  instance,  dissolving  a  few  drachms  of 
Fuchsine  in  25  to  30  cubic  centimeters  of  water,  heat- 
ing the  solution  to  boiling,  and  adding,  during  the  boil- 
ing, caustic  soda  solution,  drop  by  drop,  until  the  bath 
shovv-s  only  a  pale  rose  color.  Now  remove  the  bath 
from  the  fire  and  introduce  the  tissue:  take  it  out  after 
a  few  minutes,  thoroughly  wash  it  in  clean  water,  and 
dry.  The  silk  and  woolen  threads  will  be  colored  bright 
red.  while  the  cotton,  flax.  etc..  remain  tmcolored. 

For  the  detection  of  silk  in  wool,  or  wool  in  silk, 
in  white  or  light-colored  tissues,  the  presence  of  sul- 
phur in  the  wool  may  be  utilized.  Prepare  a  solution 
of  oxide  of  lead  in  caustic  soda  by  boiling  litharge  in 
the  latter  and.  after  settling,  pouring  off  the  clear 
fluid  Immerse  the  tissue  in  the  latter.  In  conse- 
quence of  their  content  of  sulphur  the  woolen  threads 
immediatelv  become  black  bv  the  formation  of  black 


ANALYSIS    OF    TEXTILE    FABRICS.  349 

sulphide  of  lead,  while  the  color  of  the  silk  threads, 
which  contain  no  sulphur,  remains  unchanged. 

A  simple  method  consists  in  the  use  of  concentrated 
acids.  Cold  nitric  acid  dissolves  silk,  while  wool  is 
not  perceptibly  attacked  by  it.  Silk  acts  in  the  same 
manner  towards  sufficiently  concentrated  cold  sul- 
phuric acid.  The  last-mentioned  acid  at  the  same 
time  frees  the  wool  from  vegetable  fibers  by  converting 
them  into  gum  and  sugar. 

It  is  better,  however,  to  immerse  the  sample  of  the 
tissue  in  cold  concentrated  hydrochloric  acid.  The 
silk  is  in  a  short  time  completely  dissolved,  while  the 
woolen  and  vegetable  fibers  remain  behind  unchanged. 
Now  add  water,  collect  the  unchanged  woolen  and 
vegetable  fibers  upon  a  filter,  and  wash  thoroughly. 
As  a  rule,  they  must  also  be  decolorized. 

Now  to  distinguish  the  woolen  from  the  vegetable 
fibers,  treat  them  either  wnth  boiling  caustic  soda-lye, 
which  only  dissolves  the  wool,  or  use  artificially  pre- 
pared coloring  matters,  such  as  Fuchsine,  Aniline  Violet, 
or  picric  acid,  which  do  not  dye  the  cotton  if  the  neces- 
sary precautionary  measures  are  taken. 

Before  subjecting  the  tissues  to  a  chemical  test,  it 
is  advisable  to  free  them  from  their  sizing  and  coloring 
matters,  the  first  of  which  is  effected  by  successive 
treatment  with  boiling  water,  either  pure  or  slightly- 
acidulated,  or  made  alkaline  by  the  addition  of  car- 
bonate of  soda,  and  the  latter  by  chlorine  water.  The 
tissues  are  finally  carefully  washed  and  dried. 

Below  a  summary  for  distinguishing  the  purity  of 
a  fabric  by  chemical  agents  is  given: 


350   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Co'*on  is  completely  decomposed  by.  and  forms  a 
powder  after  being  immersed  in  strong  hydrochloric 
acid  and  dried.  It  is  completely  decomposed  in  a  hot 
and  strong  solution  of  nitric  acid.  Weak  sulphuric 
acid  stains  cotton  blue. 

Cotton  in  linen  cloth  can  be  detected  by  immersion 
in  caustic  potash  solution  (i  to  2),  and  then  washing 
and  drying.  The  flax  is  colored  a  deep  yellow,  but 
the  cotton  is  not  affected.  Boiled  in  concentrated 
sulphuric  acid  for  a  minute  or  two,  the  cotton  fiber 
is  dissolved,  but  not  the  flax.  Boiled  in  water  and 
dried,  immersed  in  a  strong  solution  of  common  salt 
and  sugar,  and  then  burnt,  the  cotton  yields  a  black, 
and  the  flax  a  gray.  ash. 

To  determine  whether  a  so-called  wooleit  cloth  con- 
tains cotton,  a  2  per  cent,  soda  lye  may  be  used.  After 
drying,  the  fibers  are  separated.  The  remaining  wool 
is  weighed  and  compared  with  the  original  weight. 

Jute  is  colored  dark  brown  by  sulphuric  acid. 

Linen  acquires  a  blue  color  when  treated  with  dilute 
sulphuric  acid. 

Silk  is  dissolved  by  hot  solutions  of  caustic  soda, 
and  destroyed  by  strong  solutions  of  zinc  chloride. 
Strong  solutions  of  hydrochloric,  nitric,  and  sulphuric 
acids  dissolve  silk  immediately. 

Tussah  silk  is  stronger  than  true  silk.  It  is  not 
affected  by  a  weak  solution  of  caustic  soda,  which 
will  dissolve  true  silk. 

Viscose  silk.  This  is  the  artificial  silk  most  used  in 
this  country,  and  seems  to  be  the  best-wearing  and 
strongest  artificial  silk  made.     It  is  manufactured  from 


ANALYSIS    OF    TEXTILE    FABRICS.  351 

wood  pulp.  It  is  destroyed  at  a  temperature  of  about 
300°  F.,  and  is  much  weaker  when  wet.  For  these 
reasons  care  must  be  used  when  wet  cleaning  and 
finishing  it  to  prevent  damage.  To  determine  mer- 
cerized silk  and  artificial  silk  from  each  other  the 
burning  test  may  be  used.  The  artificial  silk  and  the 
cotton  will  bum  with  a  bright  flame,  leaving  a  light 
ash  behind.  The  silk  bums  like  wooL  Silk  is  soluble 
in  caustic  soda,  while  cotton  and  artificial  silk  are  not. 

Cotton  present  in  a  so-called  woolen  fabric  dissolves 
in  a  weak  solution  of  hydrochloric  acid. 

CloHi  contain-ing  s^lk  and  wool  can  be  recognized  by 
boiling  in  a  hydrochloric  acid  solution.  The  silk  is 
dissolved  while  the  wool  swells. 

Iodine  and  sulphuric  acid  in  weak  solution  impart 
a  blue  stain  to  flax;  a  greenish-yellow  stain  to  hemp; 
a  blue  stain  to  rhea  fiber;   a  dark  yellow  stain  to  jute. 

Caustic  soda  in  a  solution  of  about  26.5°  Be.  causes 
the  cotton  fiber  to  shrink  in  length  and  become  more 
transparent  and  lustrous.  Cloth  treated  thus  is  called 
mercerized  cloth. 

The  difference  between  mercerized  and  unmercer- 
ized  cotton  is  easily  detected  by  using  the  test  first 
pointed  out  by  Prof.  Julius  Hubner,  of  the  Manches- 
ter Municipal  Technical  College.  If  the  two  cottons 
are  immersed  in  a  solution  of  zinc  chloride,  100  c.c. 
of  solution  containing  93.3  grammes  of  zinc  chloride, 
to  which  two  drops  of  a  solution  of  iodine  in  potas- 
sium iodide  have  been  added,  the  ordinary  cotton 
remains  white,  while  the  mercerized  cotton  takes  a 
dark  navy-blue  color.     The  depth   of   the   color  ac- 


352       DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT    DYER. 


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ANALYSIS    OF    TEXTILE    FABRICS. 


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354  ^^'*'    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

quired  measures  the  degree  of  mercerization  to  which 
the  cotton  has  been  subjected. 

The  tables  on  pages  352  and  353  give  at  a  glance 
the  reactions  of  animal  and  vegetable  fibers,  undyed 
or  after  removal  of  the  dye  by  bleaching,  with  vari- 
ous chemical  reagents,  and  the  reactions  of  various 
dyeing  materials. 


XII. 


PRACTICAL    CHEMISTRY    FOR    THE    CLEANER    AND    DYER.  ' 

In  these  days  the  cleaner  and  dyer  who  would  be 
successful  must  be  somewhat  of  a  chemist.  By  this 
it  is  not  meant  that  he  must  have  a  thorough  knowl- 
edge of  this  subject,  or  that  it  is  necessary  for  him  to 
take  a  college  course  in  this  subject,  but  that  he  should 
know  and  be  familiar  with  a  rather  long  list  of  chemi- 
cals, their  characteristics,  and  how  and  for  what  pur- 
poses they  are  used  in  the  cleaning  and  dyeing  depart- 
ments of  a  cleaning  plant.  Also  he  should  be  able  to 
make  a  few  simple  chemical  tests  to  determine  certain 
facts  in  the  course  of  his  day's  work.  For  example,  it 
is  often  of  value  to  know  whether  or  not  a  piece  of  silk 
is  loaded  and  what  the  material  is  with  which  the 
loading  was  done,  what  particular  dye  a  garment  is 
colored  with,  what  class  a  dyestuff  belongs  to,  etc. 
As  a  rule  the  practical  cleanei  and  dyer  has  not  had 
as  great  a  knowledge  of  the  different  chemicals  used 
in  the  business  as  he  should  have  had,  although  at  the 
present  time  there  is  more  of  a  disposition  on  the  part 
of  these  tradesmen  to  pay  more  attention  to  this 
phase  of  the  subject.  The  advances  that  have  been 
(355) 


356      DRY    CLEANER,    SCOURER,    GARMENT   DYER. 

made  in  the  art  of  cleaning  and  dyeing  during  the  past 
several  years  make  such  knowledge  imperative  if  the 
best  grade  of  work  is  to  be  turned  out.  Following  are 
listed  in  alphabetical  order  those  chemicals  most  fre- 
quently used  by  cleaners  and  dyers,  v\'ith  a  brief  de- 
scription of  them  and  their  uses: 

Acetate  of  cltrojiie  (Cr2(C2H302))«  is  used  in  dyeing 
as  a  mordant  by  piece  dyers,  but  it  is  ver>'  seldom  used 
by  garment  dyers. 

Acetate  of  soda.     See  Sodiimi  acetate. 

Acetic  acid  (C2H402).  This  acid  is  used  in  the 
cleaning  and  dyeing  plant  to  a  greater  extent  than 
probably  any  other.  It  is  used  in  the  spotting  de- 
]5artment,  as  a  5  per  cent,  solution  for  the  removal  of 
alkali  stains,  for  dyeing  and  for  bleaching  punx)ses  in 
combination  with  certain  other  chemicals.  It  hac  an 
odor  similar  to  vinegar  and  possesses  characteristics 
akin  to  formic  acid.  The  latter  acid,  however,  is  the 
stronger,  i  part  of  formic  being  equivalent  to  6  parts 
of  acetic.  Acetic  acid  is  used  for  dissolving  colors  and 
for  dyeing  basic  colors  on  cotton.  The  addition  of  the 
acids  retards  the  absorption  of  the  dyestuff,  and  thus 
produces  more  even  dyeings.  The  acid  is  also  used  in 
conjunction  with  the  hydrosulphites  for  stripping  pur- 
poses. 

Alimt,  potassium  ahtvtinium  sulphate  (KSO%ALr- 
(804)3  +  24  H2O)  comes  in  the  form  of  white  cr^-stals 
that  are  readily  soluble  in  water.  The  ])rinciiial  uses 
of  alum  are  in  the  dye-house,  where  it  is  used  as  a  re- 
tarding agent  when  dyeing  basic  colors  on  cotton. 
Acetic  acid,  however,  is  the  better  chemical    to    use 


PRACTICAL    CHEMISTRY.  35/ 

for  this  purpose,  as  it  does  not  produce  the  harsh  feel 
left  by  the  alum. 

Ammonia  ((NH4)2C03)  is  an  alkali  used  in  the  spot- 
ting room  for  the  removal  of  acid  stains,  in  the  clean- 
ing department  as  an  addition  to  wash  waters  for 
scouring  woolens,  and  as  an  addition  to  benzine  soap  for 
cleaning  gloves.  The  stale  urine  so  extensively  used 
in  olden  times  for  scotiring  wool  possessed  ammonia  as 
the  active  principle. 

Ammonium  hydroxide  (NH4OH)  is  a  solution  of  am- 
monia gas  in  water.  It  is  used  both  in  the  cleaning 
and  in  the  dyeing  departments,  in  the  former  as  a 
spotting  agent,  and  in  the  latter  as  a  substitute  for 
other  alkalies  when  dyeing  vat  colors  on  wool.  When 
used  as  a  spotting  agent  it  should  be  in  a  10  per  cent, 
solution.  Ammoniimi  hydroxide  is  an  alkali  and  very 
volatile. 

Benzine,  gasoline,  naphtha  are  distilled  from  crude 
petroleimi.  Their  uses  in  the  cleaning  plant  are  too 
well  known  to  merit  description  here. 

Bichromate.     See  Potassium  bichromate. 

Bisulphite  of  soda  (NaHSOs)  may  be  had  either  in 
the  form  of  a  colorless  liquid  or  a  white  powder.  It  is 
a  bleaching  agent,  and  is  used  in  combination  with 
sulphuric  acid  for  bleaching  wool.  The  active  bleach- 
ing agent  is  sulphur  dioxide.  It  is  also  used  in  the 
dye-house  as  an  after-treating  agent  to  brighten  the 
shades  of  sulphur  dyestuffs. 

Bluestone.     See  Copper  sulphate. 

Blue  vitriol.     See  Copper  siilphate. 

Borax  (Na2B407  +  io  H2O).     A  mild  alkali  that  is 


3;R   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER, 

useful  for  scouring  and  wet-cleaning  pur]K)ses.  It  is 
also  used  in  the  dye-house  dimng  the  process  of  dyeing 
Alkali  Blue. 

Calcium  hydrochlorite,  chloride  of  lime  (CaOClj)  is 
used  for  bleaching  vegetable  fibers.  It  comes  in  the 
form  of  a  white  ix)wder.  and  as  it  really  absorbs  moist- 
ure from  the  air  it  should  be  stored  in  a  dry  place. 
Its  preparations  and  uses  arc  fully  described  on  an- 
other page  of  this  book. 

Carbolic  acid.     See  Phenol. 

Carbon  tetrachloride  (CCU)  boils  at  170°  F.,  and  is 
very  volatile.  Its  use  in  the  cleaning  plant  is  con- 
fined chiefly  to  spotting  purposes.  Its  chief  value  lies 
in  the  fart  that  it  does  not  leave  spotting  rings.  It 
readily  removes  grease,  tar,  rubber,  oil,  and  similar 
stains.     It  is  non-inflammable. 

Caustic  soda  (NaOH)  is  manufactured  in  the  form 
of  a  white  mass  or  white  crystals.  Its  use  in  the 
cleaning  plant  is  confined  almost  entirely  to  dissolving 
certain  of  the  developers  and  for  testing  fabrics  to 
determine  the  cotton  and  wool  contents.  It  readily 
dissolves  animal  fibers. 

Chloroform  (CHClj)  is  used  in  the  cleaning  jilant  as 
a  grease  and  paint  remover.  Stains  that  cannot  be 
removed  by  other  solvents  frequently  N-ield  to  this 
chemical.     It  is  not  inflammable. 

Chrome.     See  Potassium  bichromate. 

Chrome  acetate.     See  Acetate  of  chrome. 

Chrome  alum  (Cr2K2(S04)4+24  H2O)  comes  in  the 
form  of  large  cr\-stals  haxnng  a  purplish  color.  It  is 
used  in  the  dye-house,  principally,  for  after-treating 


PRACTICAL    CHEMISTRY,  359 

certain  direct  colors  to  render  them  faster  to 
washing. 

Chromium  fluoride  (Cr2Fl2+8  H2O).  A  green  pow- 
der that  dissolves  readily  in  water.  Its  principal  use 
is  in  the  dye-house  for  treating  direct  reds  and  Ali- 
zarine colors. 

Copperas.     See  Ferrous  sulphate. 

Copper  sulphate  (CuSo4  +  7  H2O)  comes  in  the  form 
of  large  blue  crystals  which  dissolve  readily  in  water. 
This  chemical  is  used  ejcclusively  in  the  dye-house  as 
an  oxidizing  and  after- treating  agent.  Direct  colors 
are  made  faster  to  light  when  after-treated  with  copper 
sulphate.  It  is  also  ased  for'an  oxidizing  agent  when 
dyeing  aniline  black  and  logwood. 

Cream  of  tartar  (KHC4H4O6) .  A  white  powder  some- 
what soluble  in  water.  It  was  formerly  used  in  the 
dye-house  as  a  mordanting  assistant,  but  its  use  has 
been  largely  replaced  by  lactic  acid. 

Epsom  salt.     See  Magnesium  sulphate. 

Ethyl  alcohol  (C2H5OH)  is  distilled  from  grain  and 
is  used  as  a  solvent  for  dyes,  and  to  a  limited  extent  for 
spotting  purposes.  When  spotting  colored  fabrics  with 
ethyl  alcohol  extreme  care  must  be  used,  otherwise  the 
color  is  very  liable  to  be  damaged. 

Eau  de  Javelle.     See  Sodium  hypochlorite. 

Ferrous  sulphate  (FeS04  +  7  H2O)  has  the  form  of 
green  crystals  which  are  soluble  in  water.  It  is  a 
mordant  and  is  used  when  dyeing  with  logwood,  indigo 
in  the  copperas  vat,  cotton  with  logwood  and  khaki 
shades. 

Formaldehyde  (CH2O)  is  sold  on  the  markets  as  a 


360  DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

40  per  cent,  solution  of  the  j^as.  It  has  a  ven-  un- 
pleasant odor  and  acts  as  an  irritant  to  the  eyes.  It 
has  a  number  of  uses  in  the  dye-house,  chief  of  which 
is  as  an  after-treating  agent  to  render  direct  colors  fast 
to  washing. 

Formalin.     See  Formaldehyde. 

Glauber's  salt.     See  Sodivim  sulphate. 

Glycerine  (C3H5(OH)3)  is  a  colorless  liquid  that  is 
soluble  in  both  water  and  alcohol.  It  is  used  chiefly 
in  the  spotting  room  as  a  solvent  for  cofifee  and  choco- 
late stains.  As  a  rule  a  50  per  cent,  solution  is  used 
for  spotting  purposes. 

Green  vitriol.     See  Ferrous  sulphate. 

Hydrochloric  acid,  sometimes  known  as  muriatic 
acid  (HCL),  is  used  in  the  cleaning  and  dyeing  plant 
as  a  spotting  agent  and  for  scouring  punwses  after  wet 
cleaning,  although  acetic  acid  is  more  frequently  used 
for  this  latter  purpose.  In  the  dye-house  it  is  used 
])rincii)ally  as  a  diazotizing  agent  for  cotton  colors. 
Sulphuric  acid  is  also  uscxi  for  this  latter  purpose. 
The  acid  is  volatile  and  should  be  kept  in  tightly  closed 
containers. 

Hydrogen  peroxide  (HnOo)  is  a  bleach  and  has  come 
into  extensive  use  among  cleaners  and  dyers  during 
the  past  several  years.  It  is  easy  and  simple  to  use, 
and  exerts  no  injurious  action  on  the  fiber.  The  ]3roc- 
ess  consists  in  placing  peroxide  in  water  and  adding 
enough  ammonia  to  make  the  bath  slightly  alkaline. 
The  goods  are  entered  and  allowed  to  bleach  until 
the  desired  degree  of  whiteness  is  obtained.  The 
chemical  is  also  used  as  a  bleach  spotter  to  remove 


PRACTICAL    CHEMISTRY.  361 

dye,  grass,  blood,  fruit,  wine,  and  other  stains  from 
garments. 

Hydrosulphiie  is  a  stripper  used  to  remove  colors 
from  fabrics.  It  is  on  the  market  under  a  variety  of 
names.  It  is  used  with  the  addition  of  acetic  acid  in 
equal  proportions.  The  goods  are  boiled  until  the 
color  has  disappeared.  • 

Magnesium  sulphate  (MgS04  4-7  H2O)  is  an  after-- 
treating  agent.  Its  use  is  confined  to  after-treating 
sulphur  colors,  and  consequently  is  not  extensively 
used  in  the  cleaning  plant. 

Meta  phenylene  diamine  (C6H4(NH4)2)  is  a  developer. 
It  comes  in  the  form  of  either  a  dark  grayish  powder  or 
crystals.  It  is  used  in  the  same  manner  and  pro- 
duces the  same  results  as  Meta  Toluylene  described 
below. 

Meta  toluylene  diamine  (C6H3CH3(NH3)2)  is  used  in 
the  dye-house  as  a  developer,  principally  for  dark 
shades  and  black.  It  comes  in  the  form  of  brownish 
crystals  and  is  dissolved  by  boiling  with  twice  its 
weight  of  soda  ash. 

Methyl  alcohol  (C3H5OH)  is  used  as  a  solvent  for  cer- 
tain dyestuifs. 

Muriatic  acid.     See  Hydrochloric  acid. 

Naphthol  5  is  a  developer  used  principally  for  de- 
veloping blue,  red,  brown,  and  some  black  dyes.  It 
is  a  white  powder  insoluble  in  water.  It  is  dissolved 
by  boiling  with  one-half  its  weight  of  caustic  soda. 

Oil  of  vitriol.     See  Sulphuric  acid. 

Oxalic  acid  (C2H2O4+2  H2O)  is  used  by  the  cleaner 
chiefly  for  the  removal  of  iron  and  rust  stains.     A 


362   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

weak,  warm  solution  is  applied  to  the  spot,  allowed  to 
stand  for  a  short  time,  and  is  then  rinsed  out  vsnth 
warm  water. 

Perborate  of  soda  is  a  bleaching  agent  that  is  very 
similar  to  peroxide  of  soda.  Perborate  of  soda  finds 
its  principal  use  in  the  cleaning  plant  as  a  spotting 
agent  for  the  removal  of  perspiration  stains. 

Permanganate.     See  Permanganate  of  potash. 

Permanganate  of  potash  (KMn04)  is  a  bleaching  agent. 
It  comes  in  the  form  of  dark  cr\-stals  which  dissolve 
readily  in  water,  forming  a  violet  solution.  The  goods 
to  be  bleached  are  soaked  in  a  solution  of  the  per- 
manganate, rinsed,  and  given  a  bath  in  bisulphite  of 
soda.  There  is  always  danger  of  damaging  the  goods 
when  permanganate  is  used  as  a  bleaching  agent,  and 
this  fact  has  caused  cleaners  to  discontinue  its  use  to 
a  considerable  extent  and  to  use  other  bleaching  agents 
that  are  not  open  t©  this  objection. 

Peroxide  of  hydrogen.     See  Hydrogen  peroxide. 

Phenol,  or  carholk  acid  (CeHsOH)  is  used  in  the  dye- 
house  as  a  developer.  It  comes  on  the  market  in 
cn,-stalline  form  and  is  readily  soluble  in  water.  Its 
principal  use  is  for  developing  light  green  shades. 

Potassium  acid  tartrate.     See  Tartar  emetic. 

Potassium  aluminium  sulphate.     See  Alum. 

Potassium  bichromate,  chrome  (KjCrjOr),  a  mordant 
for  wool,  is  on  the  market  in  the  form  of  orange-colored 
cr>'stals.  The  wool  is  boiled  in  a  solution  of  the 
chemical,  which  action  deposits  an  oxide  of  chrome 
on  the  fiber.  This  oxide  is  then  reduced  ^nth  lactic 
acid  in  the  mordanting  bath,  in  which  state  it  readily 


PRACTICAL    CHEMISTRY.  363 

combines  with  the  color  being  dyed.  A  cold  process  of 
mordanting  is  also  carried  out  by  the  use  of  bisulphite 
in  combination  with  bichromate. 

Potassium  hitartrate.     See  Cream  of  tartar. 

Potassium  carbonate  (KCO3)  is  an  alkali  that  possesses 
the  same  properties  and  is  used  for  the  same  purposes 
as  sodium  carbonate.  However,  it  is  milder  in  its 
action.     See  Sodium  carbonate. 

Resorcine  (C6H6O2).  A  developer  used  in  the  dye- 
house  for  developing  orange  and  brown  shades.  It 
comes  in  the  form  of  colorless  crystals  that  are  soluble 
in  water. 

Sal  soda.  See  Soda  ash. 
■  Soda  ash  (Na2C03)  and  sal  soda  (Na2C03  +  io  H2O). 
The  first  of  these  chemicals  comes  in  the  form  of  a 
white  powder,  and  the  second  in  the  form  of  white 
crystals.  One  hundred  pounds  of  soda  ash  are  equiva- 
lent to  270  lbs.  of  sal  soda.  They  are  used  in  the 
cleaning  plant  as  an  addition  to  the  scouring  water 
used  for  cleaning  wool,  and  in  the  dye-house  for  dyeing 
logwood  on  union  goods.  They  are  also  used  to  give 
a  mild  strip  to  cotton  goods. 

Sodium  acetate  (NaC2H302)  comes  in  white  crystal- 
line form  and  is  soluble  in  water.  It  is  used  in  the  dye- 
house  as  a  dyeing  assistant  for  Azo  colors. 

Sodium  biborate.     See  Borax. 

Sodium  bichromate  (NaoCraOv+a  H2O)  is  used  Li  the 
dye-house  as  a  developing  agent  for  after-chrome 
colors,  also  as  an  after-treating  agent  to  increase  the 
fastness  to  washing  of  direct  colors.  This  chemical 
comes  in  the  form  of  small  yellowish  crystals  which 


364   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

dissolve  readily  in  water.  The  container  in  which  the 
chemical  is  kept  should  remain  well  covered. 

Sodium  bisiilphatc  (NaHS04).  This  is  a  dyeing  as- 
sistant. It  comes  in  the  form  of  a  white  cr>*stalline 
mass.  It  is  used  as  a  substitute  for  Glauber's  salt 
and  sulphuric  acid  in  wool  dyeing.  Ten  parts  of  this 
chemical  equal  4  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  and  10  parts 
of  Glauber's  salt. 

Sodium  bisulphite.     See  Bisulphite  of  soda. 

Sodium  chloride,  comiuon  salt  (NaCl),  used  in  dye- 
ing in  place  of  Glauber's  salt,  and  for  setting  the  colors 
on  cotton  goods  before  wet  cleaning. 

Sodium  hypochlorite  (XaOCU).  A  bleaching  agent 
produced  by  the  addition  of  soda  ash  solution  to  a 
solution  of  chloride  of  lime.  The  exact  method  of 
making  and  use  of  it  are  explained  on  another  page 
of  this  book. 

Sodium  perborate.     See  Perborate  of  sodium. 

Sodium  peroxide  (KajSOj).  A  bleaching  agent  used 
for  bleaching  wool.  silk,  cotton,  jute,  feathers,  and.  in 
fact,  all  fibers.  It  comes  in  the  form  of  a  white  pow- 
der, and  to  prevent  loss  of  strength  it  should  be  stored 
in  a  dn*'  place  and  kept  well  covered.  It  is  one  of 
the  safest  bleaching  agents  to  use  in  the  cleaning 
plant. 

Sodium  phosphate  (Na2HP04-f-i2  HjO)  comes  in 
the  form  of  a  white  powder.  Its  uses  are  confined  to 
the  dye-house,  where  it  is  used  during  the  process  of 
dyeing  unions  to  keep  all  of  the  color  from  going  onto 
the  wool,  and  when  dyeing  certain  colors  of  the  direct 
class  to  assist  in  the  production  of  clear  shades.     It  is 


PRACTICAL    CHEMISTRY.  365 

also  used  to  a  considerable  extent  for  softening  water 
and  for  use  in  peroxide  baths  to  correct  any  iron  that 
might  be  present. 

Sodium  silicate,  water  glass  (Na2Si409),  may  be  used 
in  the  cleaning  and  dyeing  plant  whenever  and  wher- 
ever a  mild  alkali  is  desired. 

Sodium  sulphate  (Na2S04  +  io  H2O)  comes  either 
in  the  form  of  a  white  powder  or  crystals  soluble  in 
water.  It  is  a  dyeing  assistant  and  is  used  to  retard 
the  color  when  dyeing  acid  colors  on  wool  and  thus 
produce  even  shades.  When  dyeing  direct  colors  on 
wool  or  cotton  the  chemical  is  used  to  force  the  dye- 
stuff  on  the  fiber. 

Sulphuric  acid,  oil  of  vitriol  (H2SO4)  finds  its  use  prin- 
cipally in  the  dye-house.  It  is  a  heavy  hquid  and  is 
strongly  corrosive.  It  is  used  when  dyeing  acid  colors 
on  wool  and  silk,  and  with  peroxide  of  hydrogen  when 
bleaching.  It  is  also  used  to  destroy  the  vegetable 
matter  in  a  fabric  when  testing  to  determine  the  per- 
centages of  wool  and  cotton  present. 

Tannic  acid  (C14H10O9  -f-  2  H2O)  is  used  chiefly  in  the 
dye-house,  as  in  resisting  silk  to  prepare  the  fiber  to 
resist  a  further  absorption  of  the  dye.  In  appearance 
it  is  a  light-colored  powder.  It  is  also  used  for  mor- 
danting cotton. 

Water  glass.     See  Sodium  silicate. 


Determining  weighted  matter  on  silk.  Adulterated 
and  weighted  silk  often  caused  much  trouble  for  the 
cleaner  and  dyer;  in  fact,  due  to  the  practice  of  manu- 


366    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

facturers  in  weighting  silk  fabrics,  ven'  few  cleaners 
and  dyers  vAW  accept  silk  garments  for  cleaning  and 
dyeing  except  at  the  customer's  risk.  The  following 
methods  may  be  followed  to  determine  whether  or 
not  a  piece  of  silk  has  been  weighted  and  the  material 
added  to  produce  the  weight: 

If  the  suspected  silk  is*  dyed  with  a  light  color  the 
presence  of  weighting  may  be  detected  by  dyeing  the 
suspected  silk  with  alizarine  in  a  container  with  a  piece 
of  unweighted  silk  and  then  soaping  it.  If  no  weight- 
ing is  present  the  silk  will  be  but  lightly  colored.  If  tin 
is  present  it  will  be  pink,  and  if  aluminium  is  present 
the  sample  will  be  red. 

A  different  procedure  must  be  followed  if  the  sus- 
pected fabric  has  been  dyed  VN-ith  dark  colors.  Bum 
a  sample  of  the  silk  and  dissolve  the  ash  in  hydro- 
chloric acid.  Divide  this  acid  solution  of  the  ash  into 
three  jmrts.  To  one  add  a  small  amount  of  hydro- 
sulphurous  acid.  A  dark-yellow  precipitate  indicates 
the  presence  of  tin.  To  another  add  ammonia  until 
the  acid  is  neutralized.  A  white,  flaky  precipitate  in- 
dicates the  presence  of  alumina.  To  the  third  add  a 
few  drops  of  concentrated  nitric  acid  followed  by  a 
few  drops  of  ferrocyanide  solution.  A  blue  precipitate 
indicates  the  presence  of  iron. 

Classifying  a  dyestuff.  To  find  the  group  in  which  a 
dyestufi  belongs,  according  to  the  Color  Trade  Journal, 
the  following  procedure  may  be  followed: 

I.  A  small  quantity  of  the  dyestuflf  is  dissolved  in 
some  hot  water  and  a  piece  of  scoured  cotton  is  steeped 
in   this  solution.     If  the  cotton  is  dyed  ven'  poorly, 


PRACTICAL    CHEMISTRY.  367 

or  not  at  all,  the  dyestuff  may  belong  to  the  basic,  acid, 
or  mordant  class.  If  the  cotton  is  dyed,  but  the  color 
is  easily  removed  by  washing  in  warm  soap  and  water, 
the  dyestiiff  may  belong  to  either  the  acid  or  the  basic 
group.  If  the  cotton  becomes  well  dyed  and  the  color 
is  not  removed  by  subsequent  washing  with  soap 
and  water  the  dyestuff  belongs  to  the  direct  cotton 
group. 

2.  A  sample  of  the  cotton  is  mordanted  by  steeping 
in  a  solution  of  tannic  acid,  squeezed  and  then  soaked 
in  a  cold,  dilute  solution  of  tartar  emetic.  This  pre- 
pared sample  is  then  dyed  mth  the  dyestuff  solution 
as  before.  If  the  cotton  is  only  slightly  tinted  or 
not  colored  at  all  the  dyestiiff  belongs  to  the  acid 
or  mordant  class.  If  the  color  is  not  removed  by 
subsequent  washing  the  dyestuff  belongs  to  the  basic 
class. 

3.  A  piece  of  clean,  scoured  wool  is  boiled  in  the 
dyestuff  solution,  to  which  is  added  a  few  drops  of 
sulphuric  acid.  If  the  wool  is  not  d}'ed,  or  if  the 
color  is  easily  removed  by  subsequent  washing,  the 
dyestuff  belongs  to  the  basic  or  mordant  class.  If 
the  wool  is  well  dyed  and  the  color  is  not  removed 
by  subsequent  washing,  the  dyestuff  belongs  to  the 
acid  group. 

4.  A  sample  of  wool  which  has  been  boiled  uith  a 
dilute  solution  of  sodiimi  bichromate  and  sulphuric 
acid  is  dyed  with  a  solution  of  the  dyestuff,  with  the 
addition  of  a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid.  If  the  wool 
becomes  well  dyed,  the  dye  in  question  belongs  to  the 
mordant  class. 


368   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

These  tests  are  to  be  made  in  the  order  given  until 
the  proper  grouping  of  the  dyestuff  is  shown.  The 
scheme  given  is  only  for  the  four  common  groups  of 
dyes — direct,  acid,  basic,  and  mordant.  In  case  the 
dye  is  a  sulphur  color  or  ,a  vat  dye,  further  chemical 
tests  will  have  to  be  applied. 


INDEX. 


A  CETATE  of  chrome,  356 
■'*■  Acetic  acid,  83,  124,  356 

reduction  with,  130 
ether,  80 
Aceto-oxalic  acid,  113 
Acetone,  77 
Acid,  effect  on  black  silk,  74 

dyestuffs,  dyeing,  furs  with,  238 
wool  with,  320 
wool  and  silk  with,  317 
stains,  no,  118 
Alcohol,  72,  79 

Alkali,    anhydrous  extract  of,  16 
caustic,  effect  on  wool,  74 
effect  on  luster  of  silk,  74 
stains  of,  84,  118 
Alum,  356 

for  fire-procfing  fabrics,  225 
Ammonia,  80,   124,  356 

as  a  fire-extinguishing  agent;  30 
for  stain  removal,  124 
in  water,  test  for,  151 
soap,   15.  89 
Ammonium  hydroxide,  357 
Analysis  of  textile  fabrics,  340-354 

Tetrapol.  93 
Anhydrous  extract  of  alkali,  16 
Aniline  color  stains,  112 

colors,  stripping,  336,  337 
oil,  77 
Animal  and  vegetable  fibers,  table  of  re 
actions  of,   352 
fibers,  analysis  of,  344 
Antibenzinpyrin,   10,  11 
Antimacassars,  cleaning  of,  184 
Apyrine  starch,  226 
Artificial  perfume  stains,  116,  117 
silk,  analysis  of,  342,  350 
Asphalt  stains,  81 
Axle  grease  stains,  94,  137 

BALSAM  stains,  81 
Band  block,  281 
Barege  garments,  cleaning  of,  168 
Basic  dyestuffs.  dyeing  straw  hats  with, 
291 
wool  with,  321 
wool  and  silk  with,  318 
Benzine,  6,  7,  81,  357 

addition  of  soap  to,  32 
and  carbon  tetrachloride,  mix- 
ture of,  21 
boiling  point  of.  6 
characteristics  of,  7 
clarifying  by  centrifugal  force, 

69,  70 
cleaning  establishments,  design 

and  construction  of,  24 
dangers  in  the  use  of,  24 


Benzine,  deodorization  of,  63 

discovery  of  the  detergent  prop- 
erties of,  I 
distilling  of,  64-68 
distinction  of,  from  benzole,  18 
explosion  of,  32 
filtering  of,  61 
gelatinized,    103 
good  grade  of,  8 
heavy.  42 
mixtures  of,  with  other  spotting 

agents,  81 
oily  deposit  in,  8 
oleates  soluble  in,  10 
purification  of,  61-70 

by  centrifugal  force,  69 
by  distillation,  64-68 
by  filtration  61-63 
with  sulphuric  acid,  62,  63 
rendering  it  free  from  fire  haz- 
ard, 31 
soap,  9-16 

addition  to  benzine  to  les- 
sen fire  risk,  32 
ammonia,   is 
formulas  for,  is 
liquid,  13 
Saponine,  12 
solid,   16 
solubility  of,  10 
soluble,  solutions  of,  14,  15 
Weralin,  13 
stills,  65-68 
storage  of,  27 
testing  of,  8 
vapor,  inhalation  of,  33 
vessels  for  cleaning  gloves  with, 

293 
washing  with,  39 

machine,  43 
points  in,  45-53 
wet,  treatment  of,  37 
Benzinized  magnesia,   102 
Benzoic  acid,  173 
Benzol,  6,  15,  17 

distinction  of,  from  benzine,  18 
Berry  stains,  118 
Beschorner's   process   for   removing   ink 

stains,  114 
Bichromate    of    potash,   stripping  wool 

with,  337 
Binding  soft  or  stiff  hats,  285 
Bird  heads,  cleaning  of, 270 
skins,  cleaning  of,  270 
wings,  cleaning  of,  270 
Bisulphite  of  soda,  126,  357 
Black  and   white  check  goods,  cleaning 

of,  164 
Blanchissine,  96 


369 


370 


INDEX. 


BUnkeU.  white  wootcn.  bleaching  o<.  172 
ci(«nin4  of.  bo.  i6q 
•ulphunngof,  ib9,  170 
Bleach  »potter».  116 
Bleaching  ap(>aratus.  electric.  178 

chamber  for  woolens.  169 

electric.  177-179 

(eathera.  347 

fluid*.  86 

iute.   176 

liquor,  electrolytic.  177 

powder,  173 

procMses   applicable   to   spot- 

ting.  I3S-I4<> 
iheepakins.  232 
■traw  and  straw  hats.  289 
whitewoolen  blankets.  170-172. 
garments.  172 
or     silk     articles 
with  peroxide. 
171 
with  hydrogen  peroxide.  171, 

173 
with  potassium  permanganate. 
12O 

and     sulphurous 
acid.  170,  171 
with  sodium  peroxide,  174 
with  sulphur,  169,  170 
Blocking  soft  or  sufl  hats.  283 
Blocks  for  hats.  277.  278 
Blonde  laces,  cleaning  of.  187 
Blood  stains,  91.  115,  143 
Boiling  point  01  benzine.  6 
gasoline.  6 

grade  B  petroleum  naph- 
tha. 6 
petroleum  ether.  6 
petroleum  naphtha.  6 
Borax.    84.  3S7 

for  fire-proofing  fabrics,  225 
Bran,  for  cleaning  purpoaes.  162 
Brown  stains.  remo\-aI  of.  137 
Buckskin  glovn.  cleaning  of.  301 
Burns,  treatment  of.  a 

C.\CO.\  stains,  idi 
Calcium  chloride    for    fire-prooAng 
fabrics.  324 
hypochlorite.  358 
Candy  stains,  iiq 
Cap*,  cleaning  of.  so,  180 
Carbon  dioxide,  reducing  effect  of,  128 
tetrachloride.  20.  81.  358 

for  stain  remo\-al.  83 
its  advantages.  20 
non    -    inflammable 
mixture*  of.  with 
benzine.   31 
properties  of.  2 1 
storage  of.  22 
use  of.  for  spotting. 
20.  8t 
Carbonate  of  soda.  124 
Carpet*,  cleaning  of,  57.  199 
resizing  of.  57 
wet  cleaning  of.  199 
Cautic  wla.  3-^ 


CbemKai  analysu  ol  nbers.  343-3SI 


Cbenistry  for  dcwien  and  dyers,  as- 

368 
Cheny  stams.  107 
Che«-ing  gum.  remcn'al.  I30 
Chicken  feathers,  cleaning.  J66 
'Ivring.   369 
Chiffon.«.  }i2 

Chloridt 

Chlorine,  couininawns  in  water,  indica- 

tKMU  01.    ISI 

water,  87 
Chloroform.  54.  '8.  8t.  3^8 
Chocolate  stains.  119.  i3t> 
Chrome  acetate.  356 

alum.  JS8 
CI  nde.  359 

{;  .'4 

tl.i-  ■.•■  ccntrif'.iital.  69 

Classiu  mu  J  •: 

Cleaned  fabric-  .V13-336 

Cleaning  and  li  -    24S-374 

•   -••in  and 
46 

renovati:.^       -.       ^^  and 

Panama  hau.  Ucaching 

and    dveing    straw    and 

straw  hats.   37S-292 

fabrics     dyed     «-ith     deUcate 

colors.  81 
felt  hats.  180.  281 
in    power-dri\-en   washing   ma- 
chines. 45 
Leghorn  hats.  287 
oils,  testing  of.  8 
Panama  hats.  287-289 
plant  design  and  coostructioa. 
24 
equipment  neceasary  in. 

39-4^ 
fire-extinguishing  in.  36- 

29 
lighting.  25 
\-entilation.  36 
proceases.  35-61 
•traw  hats.  289 
woolen  goods,  mixture*  for.  lot 

Cloaks.  W"   .  l-^-nin*  ol.    156 

Cloth  crv.  ■  -aning  of.  $6,  160 

u  '  I.  122-224 
Clutch.  • 

Coats.  Li  .:  >f.  S6.  160 

11,  1.  IS9 

Cofltee  »•  lit 

Color  St..  146 

Colored  .  vinr    of    Ozygenol 

f    h>-drocen 
,J8 
.„j..     :s  for  use  00, 

Hit 

cleaning  of.  52 
U'>'1(-n<i.  <  tr.ining  of.  tOI 
Colors.  V-  165 

I  <s    of,    when    wet 

t«.  !^7 

aliments    and 


Conbin.^ 

Commeiw...  -...,.,-  .  -. 
Cones  for  dr)-ing.  204 


278 


INDEX. 


371 


Construction  of  cleaning  plants,  24 

dryrooms,  28 
Copal  stains,   72 
Copper  stains,  120 

sulphate,  359 
Corsets,  cleaning  of    163 
Cotton  and    linen    garments    containing 
jute,  dyeing,  333 
and  wool  goods,  mixed,  dyeing, 
328-330 

black,  329 
brown,  329 
crimson,  330 
datk  blue,  329 
scarlet,  329 
detection  of,  341 
effect  on,  of  various  reagents,  73 
fabrics,  water-proofing  of,  222 
fiber,  analysis  of,  341 
garments,  wet  cleaning  of,   147- 

202 
goods,  wtiite,  bleacfi  spotters  for 
use  on,  126 

dressing  for,  217 
dyeing,  330-333 

black,  333 
blue,  332 
brown,  332,  333 
claret,  332 
crimson,  331 
gray,  3ii 
green.  ii2 
maroon,  332 
orange,   332 
pink,   332 
salmon.  332 
scarlet,  331 
violet,  332 
yellow,  332 
removing  stains  from,  75 
spotting  fluid  for,  98 
in  linen  fabrics,  detection  of,  350 
woolen  fabrics,  detection  of, 
346 
mercerized,  351 

and  unmercerized,  de- 
tection of  difference 
between,  35: 
velvets,  cleaning  of,  197 
Covers  for  machines  containing  gasoline, 

29 
Cream  gloss,  221 

of  tartar,  359 
Crepe,  georgette,  cleaning  of,  196 
Curling  board,  278 

feathers,  272 
shackle,  278 
soft  or  stiff  hats,  283 
tool  for  feathers,  273 
Curtains,  cleaning  of,  60.  189,  190,  191 

cream  colored,  cleaning  of,  190 
finishing  of.  208 
starch  for.  208 
wet  cleaning  of,  189-191 
Cushion  covers,  wet  cleaning  of,  184 


■pjANGERS  in  use  of  benzine,  24 
■'-'  Dark   colored   garments,   wet   clean- 
ing of,  166 
Decolorizing  feathers,  252 
Degreasing  feathers,   253 
Deodorization  of  benzine,  63 


Design     and    construction     of    cleaning 
plants,  24 
dryrooms,  28 
Developer  stains,  119 
Distillation  of  benzine,  purification  by,  64 
Dog  skins,  cleaning  of,  227 
Draperies,  plush,  finishing  of,  209 
Dresses,  cleaning  of,  59 

morning,  cleaning  of,  97 
Dressing  feathers,  246 

fire-proof,  224,  225 
for  garment  dyers  and  laundry- 
men,  220 
laces,  206 

ladies'  garments,  217 
white  embroideries,  208 
Dressings,  sprayer  for  sprinkling,  204 
Dry,  chemical  or  French  cleaning,  1-70 
cleaning    and    wet    cleaning,    close 
connection  between,  2 
by  hand,  39 
carpets,  57 

classification  of  the  proc- 
ess of,  35 
establishment,    plant   for, 
42 
precautions     to 
be  taken  in,  23 
goods  less  suitable  for,  36 
not  suitable  for,  36 
suitable  for.  35 
liquids  for.  4 
men's  garments,  58 
mistakes  with  regard  to,  4 
object  of,  77 
origin  of,  3 

plant  design  and  construc- 
tion. 24 
lighting  of.  25 
ventilation  of,  26 
preparation    of    garments 

for,  37 
process   in  smaller  estab- 
lishments. 38-42 
silk  garments.  41 
solvents  used  in,  4 
Drying  chamber,  28 
cylinder,  218 
drum  for  feathers,  272 
feathers,   271 
frame,  204 
garments  before  cleaning,  37 

in  the  drying  tumbler, 
49 
machine  for  feathers,  272 
room  design  and  construction,  28 
table,  218 
tumbler,  49,  204 

advantages  of,  50 
wet  cleaned  garments,  apparatus 
for,  204 
Duck  feathers,  dyeing.  269 
Dust  coats,  cleaning  of,  97 
removal  of,  36 
stains,  100 
wheel,  36 

dusting  garments  in,  36 
Dusting  garments  before  cleaning,  36 
in  dust  wheel, 36 
velvets,  54 
Dye  stains,  100,  119 

Dyeing  cotton  and  linen  garments  con- 
taining jute,  333 


372 


INDEX. 


Dyeins  cotton  Roods.  330-333 
fancy  feathers.  269 
feathers.    148   ^71 
furs  anil  skins.  ^37-^44 
garments.  307  -334 
gloves,  302-306 

materials,   tabic  of   reactions  of 
various.  353 
mixed  cotton  and  wool  goods,  338 
ostrich  feathers.  }$] 
silk  and  W(x>l  fabrics.  317 
silks.  3iK*-ji7 
skins  and  furs.  237-244 
straw  and  straw  hats,   291 
wool  and  silk  fabrics,  317 

garments  and  fabrics,  319- 
}2n 
DycstufTs,  classification  of.  366 

for  cotton  goods.  330-333 
furs,  238 
silks.  309 
wools.  324 
wool  and  silk  fabrics.  3 1 7 

f.W  dc  Javellc.  86.  106.  182 

*-'  preparation  of,  182 

Egg  spots.  120 

Elastic  gloss  starch,  221 

Electric  bleaching,  177-179 

apparatus,  178 
clutch,  277 

excitation,  prevention  of,  29 
Electricity,  static,  guarding  against,  27- 

30 
Electrolytic  bleaching  liquor.  177 
Embroideries,  cleaning  of.   182.   183,  187 
finishing  of,  jof),  208 
on  linen,  wet  cleaning  of, 

187 
white,  dressing  for,  208 
English  spotting  fluid,  92 
Equipment  for  the  cleaning  plant,  39-43 
Ether,  77 

IK'troleum,  6 
Etherized  magnesia,  103 
Ethyl  alcohol,  359 
Explosion,   precautions  against.   23 

of  l)enzine.  32 
Extracting  garments  after  denning.  47 
Extractors,  hand  operateil.   48 
lubrication  of.  47 
types  of,  47 

FABRICS  dye<l    with   delicate    colors, 
mixtures  for  cleaning.  8g 
Fancy  feathers,  cleaning.  2W> 

decolorizing.  267 
degreasing.  267 
drying,  271 
dyeing  black.  269 
Fastness  of  carpet  dyeslufis.  testing,  200 
Fat  t>ath  for  gloves.  209 

removal  from  garments.  81 
Fatly  stains.  104 

t'cathcr  articles,  ornamental,  cleaning  of, 
46 
boas,  wet  cleaning,  of.  46 
Feathers,  bleaching.   247.   2S4 
brightenmg.  24s 
cleaning.  24S-247.  252.  266 

and  dyeing.  245-274 
curling.  272-274 
degreaiing,  253,  254,  267 


Feathers,  drrssinx,   346 

drying,  271.  272 
dyeing,  248-251,  255-271 
fancy.  266 

dyeing.  369-271 
finishing.  246 
large  ostrich,  cleaning.  252 

decolorizing.   252 
ostrich.  252-266 

dyeing.  255-265 
tools  for  curling.  273 
white,  re-whitening  of.  254 
Felt  hats,  cleaning,  itt...  281 

straw   and    I'anama   hats,   tools   for 
cleaning  and  renovating,  376-281 
Ferrous  sulphate.  359 
Fibers,  animal  and  vegetable,  table  of  re- 
actions of.  ^iJ 
textile,  analysis  of,  340-354 
Fichus,  finishing  of.  205 
p'iltering  benzine.  61 
Finishing  black  silk  laces,  208 
chiffons.  211 

cleaned  fabrics,   203-226 
curtains,  208 
embroideries,  206-208 
equipment  necessary,  204 
feathers.  246 
laces.  206 

ladies'  garments.  217-220 
men's  garments,  209-217 
object  of,  203 
operations  included  in,  203 
plush,  208 

draperies,  209 
white  and  colored  silk  shawls, 

206 
woolen  shawls.  205 
Fire  cause<l  by  static  sparks.  30 

conditions    under    which    they    take 

place.  24 
extinguishmg  with  ammonia.  30 

steam.  26 
means  of  lessening  risk  of.  28 
(iroof  dressing,  32s 
proofing  fabrics,  formulas  for,  224- 
226 
starch.  22s 
Firing,  spontaneous,  30 
Flange  stand,  278 
Flanges.  278 

Flanging  soft  or  Panama  hnts,  284 
Flannel  undershirts,  wet  cleaning  of.  180 
Fl.i\  IiIhi.  .in.ilysis  of.  ^41,  351 
M  .Iry  (leaning,  S 

1  :  aovnl  of,  120 

I  ■  ,?-•) 

Iiiiiiii.  im  with,  130 

1-ruit  't  -.  124.  137.  141 

Fur  coll..  ..    •(.  232 

Furs.  lU-.. .1.1,1,  ......  .ivrmgof,  226-244. 

dirty,  (leaning  of,  238 
drying.   244 
dyeing,  237-244 

black.  241 
bright  green,  244 
brown,  342 
chestnut.  243 
'  golden,  243 
green.  344 
maroon,  244 
orange,   244 
russet.  243 


INDEX. 


Fur3,  dyeing,  scarlet,  244 

silver  gray,  244 

dyestuffs  for,  238 

examination  of,  227 

muffs,  cleaning  of,  236 
Fusel  oil,  84 

GALLOONS,  gold  and  silver,  cleaning 
of,  193 
Garment  dyer,  directions  for  the  removal 
of  stains  for  the,  123-125 
dyers,  dressing  for,  220 
Garments,  absorbing  water  from,  99 

and   fabrics,   stripping  colors 

from,  335-339 
cotton,  cleaning  of,  162 
dark  colored,  cleaning  of,  166 
drying  of,  37 
dyeing,  307-334 
grease  stains,  removing  from, 

105 
half-wool  and  wool,  cleaning 

of,  163 
ladies',  wet  cleaning  of,  160 
liable  to  shrinkage,   cleaning 

of,  204 
lined,  removing  stains  from, 98 
men's,  cleaning  of,  58,  154-160 

finishing  of,  209-217 
object  of  dry  cleaning,  77 
of  artificial  silk,  wet  cleaning, 
of,  165 
raw  silk,  wet  cleaning,  of, 

168 
unweighted    silk,    cleaning 

of,  165 
weighted   silk,  cleaning  of, 
165 
preparation  of,  for  dry  clean- 
ing, 37 
removal  of  dust  from,  36 

greasy  shine  from, 
112 
trimmed    with    black   velvet, 

cleaning  of,  168 
wet  cleaned,  quick  drying  of, 

204 
white,  dingy  after  cleaning,  38 
Gasoline,  boiling  point  of,  6 

danger  from,  23 
Gauntlets,  cleaning  of,  301 
Gelatine  stains.  109 

for  finishing  laces,  207 
Gelatinized  benzine,  103 
Georgette  crepe,  cleaning  of,  196 
Glacial  acetic  acid,  107 
Gloria,  dyeing  of,  317 
Gloss  starch,  221 
Glove  brushes,  294 
hands,  294 
sticks,  293 
Gloves,  appliances  for  cleaning,  293 
buckskin,  cleaning,  3  )i 
chamois,  cleaning,  299 
cleaning  and  dyeing,  293-306 
dyeing,  302-306 

black,  303 
brown,  304 
gray,  304 
Morocco  red,  304 
dyestuffs  for,  305 
fat  bath  for,  299 
gauntlets,  cleaning,  301 


Gloves,  kid,  cleaning  of,  294-299 

machines  for  cleaning,  297,  302 
removing  perspiration  from,  29s 
restoring  luster  to,  299 
silk,  cleaning  of,  181,  302 
suede,  cleaning  of,  301 
white,  cleaning,  296,  298 

Glue,  stains  of,  81,  109 

Glycerine,  84,  360 

Goat  skins,  cleaning,  227 

Gold  galloons,  cleaning,  I93 
laces,  cleaning,  193 

Goose  feathers,  dyeing,  269 

Grass  stains,  109,  136 

Gravy  stains,  81 

Grayness  in  white  goods,  prevention  of,  38 

Grease  stains,  81,  94,  loi,  102,  104,  105, 
108 

Greasy  shine,  removal  of,  from  garments, 
112 

Green  nuts,  removing  stains  of,  109 

Grouvelle's  bleaching  fluid,  86 

Gum,  chewing,  removal,  120 

Gutta-percha,  removal  from  garments,  81 

Gypsum  in  water,  test  for,  150 

HAAS   and   Oettel's  electric   bleaching 
apparatus,  178 
Hair,  analysis  of,  343 

dye  stains,  90 
Half-wool  fabrics,  dressing  for,  217,  220 
goods,  spotting  fluid  for,  98 
stripping  335 
Hand  dry  cleaning,  39 

ironing,  205 
Handkerchiefs,  silk,  w-et  cleaning  of,  181 
Hardness  of  water,  151 
Hasselbach's   method  of  clarifying   ben- 
zine, 63 
Hat,   soft,  block  for,  277 

square  crown  Panama, block  for,  278 
Hats,  binding,  285,  286 
blocking,  282 

cleaning  and  renovating,  275-292 
curling,  283 
felt,  cleaning,  281 
flanging,  284 

Leghorn,  cleaning  of,  287-289 
luering  or  polishing,  284 
measuring  sweat  leathers  for,  286 
Panama,  cleaning  of,  287-289 
pouncing  or  finishing,  284 
setting,  283 

soft  or  Panama,  flanging,  284,  285 
straw,  bleaching,  289 

cleaning,  287-289 
dyeing,  291,  292 
tools  required  for  cleaning,  275-281 
white  felt,  cleaning,  180 
Hatters'  irons,  281 
Heart-shaped  tolliker,  279 
Heating  dryrooms,   28 
Hemp  fiber,  analysis  of,  342 
Hexol,  96,  97 

Hydrochloric  acid,  88,  123,  360 
Hydro-extractors,  47,  48 

covers  for,  29 
Hydrogen  peroxide  as  a   spotting  agent, 
126,  133 
behavior  toward  col- 
ored fabrics,  138 
bleaching  with,    171- 
173.  360 


374 


JNDtX. 


Hydrogen  peroxide  commercial,    use    of, 
flit  BiKiiiing.  ijs 
im^iroving  the  (labil- 
ity ..I.  IJ5 
pn*Tv.itivc»  for.  173 
toluitioii  with,  119 
llyilr.m-opii-  auhstancrs.  <.»v 
Hylrosulphitps.  I4f).  JJ7.  JJ*.  ^t>l 
Ily<lro!tiilphurou8   acid,    rrduclion    with, 

iji 
Hyralditc,  use  of,  in  spotting,  in 

IGNITION  by  electric  ii|>arki.  jo 
^  s|iontanruu!i,  mdicatioiK  of,  39 

Iiidi-libic  iM-ncil  stains.  9*1 
Ink  stains.  113-115.  1^4.  142 

marking,  stains  of,  90 
Iodine  stains.  1^0 
Iron  in  water,  lest  for,  151 

stains.   117.   124 
Ironing,  ios 
Irons.   213 

hatters'.  381 

puff, 219 

JL"DLIN,  M..  discovery  of  the  deter- 
gent properties  of  benzine  by,  1. 
Jute,  analysis  of,  341 

bleaching  of,    176 

detection  of,  341 

effect  on,  of  various  reagents,  75 

V".\LOL.   1.16 

*^      KChaki  Icool,  cleaning,  197 

Kid  glove  cleaning,   294 

dyeing.  302-306 
Kingfisher's  skins,  dyeing,  270 
Knit  goods,  cleaning,  59,  181 

L.-\CE    curtains,    cleaning,    60,     189- 
191 
Laces,  black  silk,  finishing  of,  208 
blonde,  cleaning.    187 
cleaninK.  187.  t88 
dressing  for,   207 
finishing,  Jot> 
gold,  cleaning,   193 
silver,  cleaning,  193 
wet  cleaning,  187 
white,  wet  cleaning,  189 
Lacquer,  removal  of,  from  garments,  81 
Ladies'  cloth  coats,  cleaning,   sb 

garments,  dressing  for,  217 

finishing  of,  217-220 
wet  cleaning,   i(m>-i68 
Laundrymcn,  dressing  for.  220 
Leather.  s|>oitinK  Huids  for.  91 
I  .-t.i,  ,in  h  ,t.    i,,riiiiil;i  for  cleaning,  287 

I  '  :llg,    227 

I  .  cleaning  of,  46 

l.u  .     .      VMIS,  25 

.|t\t.K,nis.  28 
Lime  in  water,  test  for,  151 

stains,  1 10 
Linen  and   cotton    garments   containing 
jiitc.  dyeing,  m 
detinitiiui  n(,  75 

<l •  —  in.  3S'> 

I  ••  ■i-.igrnis,  75 

■  K.   I«7 

1.1  .  .    .'17.    221 

icniuvuig  sLalus  trutn,  75 


'  Line<l  garments,  remo\-al  of  stains  from. 

9« 
I  Lii>n  5ki:i>.  .  I<-.iiii:iK.  .'27 

I  Ll.j:.  :i 


:  t  or  Stiff  hats.  J&s 
mixture  for  removal 


M 


Lll.  : 

Lun.ir  .  .i;.-;i.    s 

ol.  90 
Luster  garments,  wet  cleaning  of    ifrS 
Lye  Slams.  110 

ACHINKRY,  grounding.  27 

Machines  for  pressing  clothes  by 
steam,   214 
used  in  dry  cleaning.  42 
Magnesia,  bonzini/i-'i.  102 
'      :    'J 

11  to  betuioe.  33 
Magnr^iir  /.i 

Mai:: .70 

M.t 

M.i:  -sing.   22s 

Mj:  .        - , ,  ving  of,  227-244 

Mevh.uiical  .ii)ai>«i»ul  textile  fibers,  341- 

343 
Medicine  stains,  90,  120 
Men's  coats,  pressing  of,  212 

steam  board  for  the  sleeves 
of,  210 
garments,  cleaning  of.  58,  59 
finishing  oC  200-217 
wel  cleaning  of.  154    160 
summer  garments,  dressing  for,  217 
Mercerized  cotton.  351 

and  unmercerized  cotton,  de- 
tection   of    dirterenc-e    be- 
tween. 351 
Meta  phenylene  diamine,  361 
tohiylciii-   diamine,   361 
'.lins,  iiO 


Met 
Mr: 

Mil 
Milk 


■  1  7 


107,  136 
MoUt  stains.  1 17.   118.   137 
Mordant  dyes,  dyeing  wool  with,  321 
Morning  dre«9cs.  cleaning  of,  97 
Mottled    sttaps.    1 25 
Mud  stains,  loi.  124 
Mufts,  cleaning,  236 
Mustard  stains,  121 

N.\PHTH.\,    rendering    free  from  fire 
hazard.  31 
Naphthol   B.  301 
Nitrate  of  silver  stains.  112 
Nitric  acid  in  water,  test  for,  151 
stains,   iio 
stripping  with,  337 
Nut  stains,  109 

OBSTIN.XTE  stains,  removal  of,  133 
Oil  paint  stains.  81,  82,  94 
stains.  54.  04 
Oils,  cleaning,  testing  of,  8 
Oleates,  acid,  abfirptinn  of  water  by,  10 

soluble  1;    '  •■'< 

Ostrich  feathers. 

-SJ 

•;•« ►.  -S3 

dyeing,  255-271 

admiral.  260 
bamliuo,  257 
beige.   259 


INDEX. 


375 


Ostrich  feathers,  dyeing,  black,  255 
borde,  263 
bronze,  256 
butter,  258 
cardinal,  258 
chartreuse,  259 
coq  loche,  258 
coquelicot,  258 
cream,  256 
cresson,  259 
dark         mirror, 
light    border, 
263 
dull  fiery  tones, 

259 
etna,   259 
garnet,  259 
gold.  256 
graduating, 

shades,  265 
gray,  258 

blue,    260 
green,  259 

blue,   260 
heliotrope,  258 
ivor>',  256 
light         mirror, 
dark    border, 
263 
maise,  257 
mandarin,  258 
maroon,  260 
navy,  260 
old  rose,  260 
olive,  256,  259 
ombre,  261 
pale  blue,  257 
parme,  258 
prune,  258 
rose,  257 
russe.  260 
salmon,  257 
Siam,  259 
tobacco,  259 
tricolored,  261 
vesuve,  259 
yellow       green, 
259 
Overcoats,  wet  cleaning  of,  59.  I55 
Oxalic  acid,  87,   123,   124,  361 

reduction  with,   130 
Oxygenol  as  a  spotting  agent,  131,  132, 
140 
behavior    of,    toward    colored 
articles,  142 

PAINT  stains,  54,  105 
Palm   Beach  clothing,  cleaning  of,  197 
Panama  hats,  flange  for,  278 
flanging,  284 

formulas  for  cleaning,  287 
measuring     sweat     leather 

for,  286 
square  crown  block  for,  277 
Pantaloons,  pressing  of,  213 

steam  board  for,  210 
Paraffine  stains,  81 
Parasols,  cleaning  of,  194,  19s 
Parrot  feathers,  dyeing,  269 
Peacock  feathers,  dyeing.  269 
Pencil  marks,  indelible,  stains  of,  90 
Perborate  of  soda,  127.  362 
Perfumes,  artificial,  stains  of,  116,  117 


Permanganate  of  potash,  362 
Peroxide,   bleaching   white   wool   or  silk 

articles  with,  171 
Perspiration  stains,  no,  in,  167 
Petroleum  ether,  6 

boiling  point  of,  6 
naphtha,  boiling  point  of,  6 

grade    B,    boiling   point 
of,   6 
products,  different  grades  of,  6 
Phenol,  362 

Phosphoric  acid,  reduction  with,  130 
Pigeon  feathers,  dyeing,  269^ 
Pitch  stains.  81 

Plush  articles,  finishing  of,  208 
draperies,  finishing  of,  209 
silk,  cleaning  of,  60 

dark  colored,  cleaning,  196 
stains  in,  97 
Polar  bear  skins,  cleaning  of,  227 
Pongee,  prevention  of  water  rings  in,  100 
Portieres,  cleaning,  60 
Potassium  bichromate,   362 

cyanide,  removing  stains  with, 

90 
permanganate    and    sulphur- 
ous  acid,    bleaching    with, 
127 
Potash  soaps,  soft,  125 
Pouncing  hats,  284 
Precautions  to  be  taken  in  cleaning  plants, 

23 
Pressing  garments    by    hand,    disadvan- 
tages of,  213 
machines.  214-216 
men's  garments,  directions  for, 
212,  213 
PufT  irons,  steam  heated,  219 
Punch  stains,  109 
Purification  of  benzine,  61-70 


UILLAIA  bark,  extract  of,  157 

wet  cleaning  with, 

157 


Q 


RABBIT  skins,  cleaning  of,  227 
Rain-coats,  cleaning,  97 
Ramsey's  bleaching  fluid,  86 
Red  wine  stains,  106,  137,  142 
Removal  of  stains  or  spotting,  71-146 
Resin  stains.  81,  84,  105 
Resorcine,  363 

Richter,  Dr.  M..  investigations  of,  9 
Rinsing  after  cleaning,  164 
Rubberized  garments,  cleaning  of,  197 
Rugs,  skin,  cleaning  and  dyeing  of,  227, 

244 
Rust  stains,  72,  117,  142 

CAPOMNE,  12 
"^  Satin  slippers,  cleaning,  60 
Scarfs,  cleaning,  184 
Schwemmer's  spotting  fluid,  92 
Scorch,  treatment  of,  121 
Scouring  table,  49 

water,  149 
Seal  skins,  cleaning,  227 
Set  stick,  281 

Setting  soft  or  stiff  hats,  283 
Shading  box,  261,  262 
Shawls,  finishing.  205,  206 
Sheepskins,   bleaching  of,  234 
cleaning  of,  232 


376 


INDEX. 


Sh«*i>skin».  dv 'U 

w.  .'33 

Shoe  polish,  rrr:.  :n  garmmu. 

121 
Shot  effects,  production  of.  310    . 
SUicatF  of  Mida  for  fire-prooAng  fabrics. 

Silk,  analysis  of.  345 

and  wool  cloth,  recocnition  of.  351 
articles,  dmsing  for.  217 

light  colored,  wet  cleaning 
of.   166 
artificial,  analysis  of.  342.  3So 

wet  cleaning  garments  of. 
16s.   1^6 
bleach  sfKitJcr-i  fnr  use  on,  126 
char:  ing  of.  Oo 

clot'  IK  of.  181 

col  I-  ■>l.  SI.  166 

def 

det'-  -aed  matter  in,  36s 

drc-  .1.  S9 

eflff.  •.  :■..  74 

fabrics.   iir«.-»inK  tor.  217 

white,  cleaning  of,  SI,  168 
fiber,  analysis  of.  34s.  35o 
garments,  prevention  of  water  rings 
on.  v<j 
dr>-  cleaning  by  hand,  108 
stains  on.  108 
gloves,  cleaning.  293 
handk<Trhi''f«.  rli^aninit.  181 

in  "•  ■  '     ' ••   •■     •     i}8 

lac<--  '.  208 

l2 

light :;  from  strip- 

iiiaii.    107 
wvt  cleaning,  t8o 
plush,  cleaning.  60.  106 
raw.  cleaning  garments  of.  168 
remo\'al  of  stains  from,  with  water, 

95 
spotting  fluid  for.  98.  106 
stockings,   cleaning,    181 
stripping.   3»7 
tu»5<'>    .1.-."...,.    f^i 
unw  leaning.  lbs 

veh  >3 

weiS'  '  i-   16s 

wet  ck-jiuiyj  i;Arments  of,  l6s-l^8 
white,  bleaching  spotters  for  use  on. 
126 
bleaching  with  hydrogen  per- 
oxide, 171- 
1-3 
■odium      per- 
oxide, 174- 
176 
cleaning  of.  SL  l<>8 
Silks.  dye«uflfs  for.  311 
dyeing.  3»9-3l7 

black.  312 
blue.  314 

Bordeaux  red.  313 
bright  green.  316 
cherr>'  reil.  314 
cream.    314 
crimson.  313 
dark  broM-n.  312 
fancy  colors,  316 
gold.  313 
pay.  31s 
heliotrope,  31  j 


Silks,  dreiag.  navy  bine.  314 
pea  greeti.  316 
prune,  31S 
rose  color.  314 
salmon  rose.  314 
scarlet.  313 
■Uvr- 
tot... 

Silver  callooas.  rl' 

laces,  wet  >     .^     .. 

Skin  mats  and  rug 


Skins.  M<-ai  hjni:  nf. 


cleaning  of.  227-237 
dyeing  of,  237-244 
»34 


.•27 
15 
.         -    244 

bl.ick.     241,     242 

bright  green,  244 
brown.  242.  243 
chestnut.   243 
golden.  243 
gray.  2i<) 
maroon.  244 
orange.  244 
russet.   243 
•>>'.irl''.    .•  J : 

hard 

wet  <  !• 

white.  cl'MiuriK  <i!.  .'j  > 
Skirt  boards,  205 
Slippers,  satin,  cleaning  of,  60 
Soap,  ammonia.   15.  89 
benxine,  0-17 
for  dressing  laces.  207 

removal  of  vinegar  stains,  S9 
wine  stains.  89 
liquid  spotting.  13.  Ko 
magnesia,  use  in  benzine,  32 
(K)tash.  125 
sixlium  peroxide.  141 
«..!■;!*. .n«    twnzine  soluble,  14.  15 
K.   148 
Soda 
Sodiu;.  J 

;-■.  363 

bisulphatr.    364 

bisulphite.  126.  337 

chloride.   364 

hydrusulphite,  8$.  126,  146,  337, 

361 
hypochlorite,  126,  145,  364 
peroxide,   364 

as  a  spotting  agent.  143 
bleactiing  with.  174 
soap,   144 
phosphate.   364 
silicate.  ,16S 

,n|..l,,,,.        ,6s 
16 

:.>8 
1 10 
-  garments.  ISS.  1 57 

•»    r'rincip.il.  77-88 

uig  agents,  various.  88- 

.;    processes    applicable 

fluids.  90-02 

or  remo\-al  of  stains,  71-146 

paste.  92 

pencils.  92,  93 


INDEX. 


377 


Spotting  rin^s,  prevention  of,  99 
soap,  liquid,  13,  89 
with  hydrogen    peroxide,     126, 
133 
Hyraldite,    133 
Ox>'genoI,  131,  132,  140 
sodium  peroxide,  142 
Sprayers,  204 
Spraying  bottle,  99 
Spring  rounding  jack,  279 
Squirrel  skins,  cleaning  of,  227 
Stains,  agents  for  removing,  77-94 
classes  of,  100-125 
combined    method    of   removing, 

133 
covering  of.  98 
hints  for  removing,  123 
mixtures  for,   88-93 
nature  of,  71 
of  fatty  nature,   104 
of  unknown  derivation,  loi 
removal  of,  or  spotting,  71-146 
soap  for  all  kinds  of,  89 
table  of,  and  methods  of  removal, 

122 
tools  for  the  removal  of,  72 
Stannous  chloride,  85 
Starch,  apyrine,  226 

fire-proofing,  22s 
for  curtains,  208 
formulas  for,   221 
Static  electricity,  cause  of  fires,  30 
Steam-board,  210    _ 
table,  211 
use  of,  204,  209 
Steamers,  55,  56 
Steaming  velvets,  54-56 
Stearin  stains.  81,  106 
Stills  for  distilling  benzine,  64-68 
Stockings,  silk,  cleaning  of,  181 
Straw  and  straw  hats,  bleaching,  289-291 
dyeing,  291,  292 
hats,  formulas  for  cleaning,  289 

measuring     sweat     leathers 
for,  286 
Stretch  block,  281 
Storage  of  gasoline,  27 
Stripping  all  wool  goods,  335,  336 

colors  from  garments  and  fab- 
rics,  335-339 
low  class  unions,  338 
protection  of  light  colored  silk 

from,  167 
silk  and  half  silk,  337 
with  commercial  strippers,  336 
bichromate  of  potash  and 

sulphuric  acid,  337 
hydrosulphite         c  o  m  - 

pounds,  338 
nitric  acid,  337 
Suede  gloves,  cleaning,  301 
Sugar  stains,  109 
Suits,  women's,  cleaning,  59 
Sulphur,  bleaching  with,  169,  170 

stains,  170 
Sulphuric  acid,   123,  365 

purification     of     benzine 
with,  62 
Sulphurous  acid,   171 
Sweat  leathers  for  hats,  measuring,  286 
Sweaters,  cleaning,  59,  181 


'T'ABLE  of  reactions  of  animal  and  vege- 
••■  table   fibers.   352 

various  dyeing  ma- 
terials, 353 
stains  and  methods  of  removal, 
122 
Tannic  acid,  365 
Tannin  stains,  109 
Tar  stains,  54,  81,  82,  105,  137 
Tartaric  acid,  87 
Tea   stains,    121 
Tetrachloro-methane,    20 
Tetrapol,  93-95.    148 

analysis  of,  93 
Tiger  skins,  cleaning,  227 
Tin  salt,  85 
Tissues,   mixed,  testing,  347 

spotting  fluids  for,  91 
ToUikers,  279 

Tools  for  curling  feathers,  273 
for  hat  cleaning,  275-281 
for  spotting,  72 
Train  oil  stains,  82 
Trousers,  cleaning,   159 
Tumbler,  drying  in,  49,  204 
Tungstate     of     soda,     for     fire-proofing 

fabrics,   224 
Turkey  feathers,  dyeing,  269 
Turpentine,  18,  19,  73 

varieties  of,  19 
Tussah  silk,  detection  of,  342 
fiber,  analysis  of,  342 

TTNDERGARMENTS,   woolen,   clean- 
'-'  ing,  180 

Uniforms,  cleaning,  154 

white,  cleaning,   51 
Universal  benzine  soap,  13 
Unknown  stains,  spotting  fluid  for,  91 
Unweighted  silk,  cleaning,  165 
Upholstery,   cleaning,   60 
Urine  stains,  110 

■yARNISH  stains,  54,  Si    105 
'     Vegetable  and  animal    fibers,    table 
of  reactions  of,  352 
fibers,   analysis  of,   340- 
354 
determination  of,  in 
wool     and     silk 
fabrics,  346 
Veils,  wet  cleaning  of.  191,  192 
Velvet,  brightening  after  cleaning,  55 
cotton,  cleaning  of,  197 
dusting.  53 
genuine,  dyeing,  316 
goods,   real,   cleaning   and   reno- 
vating, 53-57 
removal  of  rain  spots  from,  53 
silk,  cleaning  of,  53,  54 
stains  in,   97 
steamer,  55 
steaming.  54,  55 
wet  cleaning  of.  53 
Ventilation  of  cleaning  plants,  26 

drj-rooms,  28 
Vests,  wet  cleaning  of.  159 
Vinegar  stains,  soap  for,  89 
Viscose  silk,  350 

Vollbrecht's  directions  for  pressing  men's 
garments,  212 


37« 


INDEX. 


WAGON  grease  stains.  los 
Waistcoats,   pressing  uf.  JIJ 
wrt  cleaning  of,   ist> 
Walnut  stain.',    m 
Washing  and  s|>otting  agents,  various.  BS- 

machines,  43 

cleaning  in,  45 
Water,  14Q-1.SJ 

aicents  for  the  absorption  of,  90 
for  wet  (leaning.  149.  ISU 
hard,  stjftening  of,   iji 
hardness  of.  test  for,  151 
proofing    fabrics,    formulas    for, 

purification  and  testing  of,  ijo- 

punfied.  testing  of,  ISJ 
removal  of  stains  with,  76.  77 
rin^,  prevention  of,  99 
atams.  76,  77 
testing  OS  to  softness,  150 
Wax  stains.  106 
Weralin,   13 
Wet  cleaning,   1 47-20 j 

and    dry    cleaning,    close 

connection  betwc<?n.  2 
division  of,   tS3 
faults   in   the   process  of, 

14H,    140 
ladies'  garments,   160-165 
men's   garments,    154-160 
s»)aps  to  use  for,   148 
water  to  use  for.  149,  150 
White  linen  garments,  cleaning  of,  109 
wool,  bleach  six^tters  tor  use  on, 

126 
woolen  goods  dingy  after  cleaning, 
38 
Whortleberr>'  stains,   107 
Wilson's  bleaching  Huid,  86 
Wine  stains,   107.  137 

soap  for,  8g 
vinegar   stains,    110 
Wood  finish  stains,  121 
Wool  and  cotton   goods,   mixed,   dyeing, 
328 
silk   fabrics,   determination   of 
ve(ietal)le  tilH-rs  in,  346 
articles,  light  colored,  wet  cleaning 

of.  180 
colored,  bleach  spotters  for  use  on, 

126 

detection  of  cotton  in,  346,  351 
dressing  for,  J 20 
dyeing,  319  J28 

black.  324,  32s 

blue.  327 

bright  red,  326 

brown.    328 

claret,  326 


Wool  dydng,  crimson.  j>6   * 

deep  red,  3»6 

gray,   US 

green.  326,  327 

maroon,  326 

mauve,  328 

orange,   326 

{mnceau,  326 

scarlet,   32s 

violet,  327 

yellow.   3j6 

with  acid  dycMufTs.  320 
basic  dycMuffs,  321 
mordant       d>-estufft, 

effect  of  c;r  ■,    •       ,,n,  74 

fabrics,  di-  -.  220 

fiber,  unal>  .  :  <; 

lx-h.t\,...    , .x.iMi    various   re- 
agents.  73 
in  silk,  detection  of.  348 
or  silk  articles,  white,  bleaching  of, 

with  iieroxide,   171 
stripping.  336 

white,  bleach  spotters  for  use  on, 
126 
Woolen  blankets,  white,  bleaching  of.  172 
fabrics,  blrnrhinR.    171,    172 

I  '  :■.   removing 

71    74 
-  for.  88-93 

W. ,.•  —  ■••"£     of,      222- 

224 

garments  and     fabrics,     dyeing. 
319-328 
mixe<l  colors,  cleaning 

of.     It, I 

preparation  of.  for  dye- 
ing. 322 
white,     bleaching     of, 
171,172 
grayness         in, 
after      clean- 
ing, 38 
goods,  cleaning.   101 

briidit  colored,  wet  clean- 
ing of,    iKo 
white,  cleaning  of,  51,  168, 
181 
knit  articles,  cleaning  of.  181 
shawls,  finishing  of.  205 
suits  and  dresses,  cleaning  of.  50 
undergarments,  wet  clean^:.^  of. 
180 
Woolens,  blrarhing  chamlM-r  for.  169 
slriiiping.    335   33" 
wliiir.  wet  cleaning  of.  if>8,  169 
Woven  articles,  cleaning  of.  181 

YELLOW  stains,  remox'al  of,  137. 


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ture, and  in  following  this  idea  the  usual  systematic  classification 
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familiar  acquaintance,  such  as  the  common  metals,  as  objects  of 
experimentation  in  allowing  the  equallv  familiar  bodies  of  air  and 
water  to  act  upon  them  under  the  familiar  impulse  of  heat.     In  the 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.  INC. 


chapters  on  green  vitriol  and  on  common  salt,  as  well  as  on  potash, 
the  reader  will  find  the  fundamental  idea  fully  elaborated.  5' 4  by 
-Vi  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  430  Pages.  103  Illustrations. 
P""    11.75 

COAL  MINING 

Mine  Foreman's   Handbook.     By   Robert   Mauchline  and  F.   Ernest 
Bracket:. 

This  volume,  which  is  arranged  in  question  and  answer  form, 
contains  much  practical  and  theoretical  information  on  the  <  • 
ing,  ventilating  and  working  of  collieries  and  is  designed  to  ;:  • 
studtnt-N  and  others  in  passing  examinations  for  mine  foremanships. 
To  the  third  edition,  which  has  been  thoroughly  revised  and  en- 
larged, much  new  matter  has  been  added  on  safetv  lamps,  coal  r!  :=: 
explosions,  size  of  ventilating  fans,  boilers,  haulage,  flow  of  - 
in  pipes,  culm  flushing,  etc.  Tho5;e  whose  ambition  is  to  bc<  ;..i 
mine  foremen  will  find  in  this  volume  much  that  would  he  of  as- 
sistance to  them.  6'i  by  gM  Inches.  Ooth  Binding.  360  Pages 
134  Illustrations.     Price    §3  ^5 

Coal  Mining:  Described  and  Illustrated.    By  Thomas  H.  Walton. 

Prepared  for  students  of  coal  mining,  operators  of  coal  mines, 
owners  of  coal  lands  and  the  general  reader.  It  descrilies  and  illus. 
trates  the  methods  of  coal  mining  as  practiced  in  this  countrj-  and 
abroad.  gX^  by  12  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  175  Pages.  24  Full- 
Page  Plates.     Price   §3,00 

CONFECTIONERY 

Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Sugar  Boiling.     By  Henr>'  Weatherley. 

A  useful  book  on  confectionery,  to  the  latest  edition  of  which 
has  been  added  an  appendix  in  which  have  been  included  some  of 
the  most  popular  confections  of  the  day.  It  contains  full  instruc- 
tions on  cr>sullizing,  lozenge-making,  comfits,  gum  gxx)ds  and  other 
processes  for  confectionery,  etc..  including  the  various  methods  of 
manufacturing  raw  and  refined  sugar  goods.  The  appendix  treats 
on  cocoa,  its  varieties  and  their  characteristics :  chocolate  and  its 
manufacture,  including  chocolate  confections :  caramels :  nougats. 
mars|^'rallows.  burnt  almonds,  candied  nuts  and  other  confections! 
Receipts  and  processes  of  manipulation  are  given.  5  by  8  Inches. 
Cloth  Binding.     196  Pages.    8  Illustrations.     Price $1.50 

DRAWING 

Mechanical  Drawing  Self-Taught     By  Joshua  Rose. 

The  object  of  this  hiH)k  is  to  enable  the  beginner  to  learn  to 
make  simple  mechanicil  drawings  without  the  aid  of  an  instructor 
arid  to  create  an  interest  in  the  subject  by  griving  examples  such  as 
the   machinist   meets    with    in   every-day   workshop   practice.     Full 


MECHANICAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  S 

practical  instructions  in  the  selection  and  preparation  of  drawing 
instruments  and  elementary  instruction  in  practical  mechanical 
drawing  are  given,  together  with  examples  in  simple  geometry  and 
elementary  mechanism,  including  screw  threads,  gear  wheels,  me- 
chanical motions,  engines  and  boilers.  By  a  careful  study  of  this 
volume  the  learner  can  obtain  an  excellent  practical  knowledge  of 
the  subject.  6^4  by  9%  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  303  Pages.  330 
Illustrations.     Price    $3.50 

DRY  CLEANING 

Practical  Dry  Cleaner,  Scourer  and  Garment  Dyer.  By  William  T 
Brannt,  New  revised  edition,  edited  by  J.  B.  Gray. 
The  manner  in  which  this  volume  has  been  received  by  those 
engaged  in  the  cleaning  and  dyeing  industry  is  evidenced  by  the 
rapid  sale  of  the  previous  editions  and  necessitated  the  preparation 
of  a  new  fifth  revised  and  enlarged  edition.  The  new  edition  has 
been  brought  strictly  up  to  date,  all  discoveries  and  improvements 
in  cleaning  and  garment  dyeing  since  the  fourth  edition  was  pub- 
lished being  incorporated  in  it.  It  treats  fully  on  cleaning  plant 
design  and  construction;  purification  of  benzine;  dry  cleaning; 
spot  and  stain  removal ;  wet  cleaning,  including  the  cleaning  of 
Palm  Beach  suits  and  other  summer  fabrics ;  finishing  cleaned 
fabrics ;  cleaning  and  dyeing  fur  skins,  rugs  and  mats ;  cleaning 
and  dyeing  feathers ;  cleaning,  dyeing  and  blocking  straw,  felt  and 
Panama  hats ;  cleaning  and  dyeing  rugs  and  carpets ;  bleaching  and 
stripping  garments ;  bleaching  and  dyeing  straw  and  straw  hats  ; 
cleaning  and  dyeing  gloves;  garment  dyeing;  analysis  of  textile 
fabrics ;  practical  chemistry  for  the  dry  cleaner  and  garment  dyer. 
It  is  the  most  comprehensive  and  complete  reference  and  text-book 
for  cleaners  and  dyers  now  on  the  market.  554  by  yyi  Inches.  Cloth 
Binding.     375  Pages.     41  Illustrations.     Price   $300 

DYEING 

Wool  Dyeing.     By  Walter  M.  Gardner. 

2  Volumes.     8  by  11  Inches.     Cloth  Binding. 

Part  I. — Covers  wool  fibre ;  wool  scouring ;  bleaching  of  wool ; 
water ;  mordants ;  assistants  and  other  chemicals.  91  Pages.  13 
Illustrations.     Price    $2.00 

Part  II. — Explains  the  natural  and  artificial  dyestuffs  as  well 
as  practical  dyeing  complete.     140  Pages.    Price $3.00 

ELECTRO-PLATING 

Complete  Treatise  on  the  Electro-Deposition  of  Metals.    By  George 

Langbein  and  William  T.  Brannt. 

A  comprehensive  and  complete  treatise,  written  from  a  scien- 
tific as  well  as  practical  standpoint  and  especially  intended  for  the 
practical   workman,    wherein   he   can    find   advice    and   information 


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regarding  the  objects  to  be  plated  while  in  the  bath  as  well  as 
before  and  after  electro-plating.  It  is  the  foremost  book  on  the 
subject  in  the  English  language  and  covers  electro-plating  and 
galvanoplastic  operations,  tiie  deposition  of  metals  by  the  contact 
und  immersion  processes,  the  coloring  of  metals,  lacquering  and 
ihe  methods  of  grinding  and  polishing,  as  well  as  descriptions  of 
the  voltaic  cells,  dynamo-electric  machines,  thermopiles,  and  of  the 
materials  and  processes  used  in  every  department  of  the  art.  Par- 
ticular attention  has  been  paid  to  all  important  innovations,  and 
i:  has  been  endeavored  to  include  all  of  the  latest  practical  methods 
of  plating,  as  well  as  the  most  recent  machinery  and  apparatus.  In 
this,  the  seventh  edition,  a  thorough  revision  has  been  made  and 
considerable  new  matter  added.  It  is  a  ready  book  of  reference 
and  a  practical  guide  to  the  workshop.  6'4  by  g'4  Inches.  Cloth 
Binding.     720  Pages.     155   Illustrations.     Price 96.oo 

FATS  AND  OILS 

Practical  Treatise   on   Animal  and    Vegetable    Fats  and   Oils.     By 

William  T.  Brannt. 

This  most  complete  and  exhaustive  work,  which  comprises  both 
fixed  and  volatile  oils,  treats  of  their  physical  and  chemical  proper- 
ties and  uses,  the  maimer  of  extracting  and  refining  them  and 
practical  rules  for  testing  them.  The  manufacture  of  artificial 
butter  and  lubricants  is  also  described.  The  book  is  divided  into 
three  parts — Part  I,  dealing  with  fixed  fats  and  oils;  Part  II.  con- 
taining volatile  or  essential  oils,  and  Part  III,  the  appendix  devoted 
'to  lubricants.  The  object  aimed  at  in  the  preparation  of  this  sec- 
ond revised  and  enlarged  edition  has  been  to  make  it  useful  to  all 
persons  in  any  way  interested  in  fats  and  oils,  and  especially  so  to 
analysts,  pharmaceutists,  chemists,  manufacturers  and  chemical  stu- 
dents. 2  Volumes.  6'4  by  g'a  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  1256  Pages. 
302  Illustrations.     Price,  the  set  $10.00 

Practical  Treatise  on  Friction,  Lubrication,  Fats  and  Oils.    By  Emil 

F.  Dieterichs. 

A  practical  up-to-date  book  by  a  practical  man,  treating  in  con- 
densed and  comprehensive  form  the  manufacture  of  lubricating  oi!^, 
leather  oils,  paint  oils,  solid  lubricants  and  greases,  together  with 
numerous  formulas,  modes  of  testing  oils  and  the  application  of 
lubricants.  It  is  written  for  the  mechanic  and  manufacturer  in 
language  easily  understood,  technical  terms  and  theories  being 
avoided.   5':4  by  7J/I  Inches.    Cloth  Rinding.    137  Pages.    Price,  $1.50 

GEARS  AND  GEARING 

Treatise  on  Gear  Wheels.     By  George  B.  Grant. 

The  object  of  this  volume  is  :i  practical  one,  to  reach  and  in- 
terest all  those  who  make  the  gear  wheels,  as  well  as  the  drafts- 
man or  foreman  who  directs  the  work      First,  the  odontoid  or  pure 


MECHANICAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  7 

tooth  curve  as  applied  to  spur  gears  is  taken  up',  then  are  described 
the  involute,  cycloid  and  pin  tooth,  special  forms  in  which  it  is 
found  in  practice;  the  modifications  of  the  spur  gear,  known  as 
the  spiral  gear  and  elliptic  gear ;  bevel  gear  and  skew  bevel  gear. 
The  subject  is  treated  in  as  simple  and  direct  a  manner  as  possi- 
ble, the  method  that  is  plainest  to  the  average  intelligent  and  edu- 
cated mechanic  having  been  selected.  6J4  by  9  Inches.  Cloth  Bind- 
ing.    IDS   Pages.     169   Illustrations.     Price    $1.00 

GLUE 

Glue,  Gelatine,  Animal  Charcoal,  Phosphorus,  Cements,  Pastes  and 
Mucilages.  By  F.  Dawidowsky  and  William  T.  ]3rannt. 
The  progress  that  has  been  made  in  the  manufacture  of  glue 
and  allied  products  since  the  first  edition  of  this  volume  was 
issued  has  necessitated  the  preparation  of  a  new  second  revised 
edition,  which  has  been  largely  rewritten.  Old  and  wasteful 
methods  have  been  replaced  by  more  approved  processes  and  in  the 
present  edition  it  has  been  endeavored  to  place  'before  those  in- 
terested in  these  industries  a  practical  and  comprehensive  account 
of  modern  methods  of  operation.  This  volume  covers  fully  the 
raw  materials  and  manufacture  of  skin  and  bone  glue,  different 
varieties  of  glue,  animal  charcoal,  phosphorus,  gelatine  and  products 
prepared  from  it;  isinglass  and  fish-glue,  methods  of  testing  glue 
and  gelatine,  and  the  preparation  and  application  of  cements,  pastes 
and  mucilages  for  use  in  the  workship,  laboratory  and  office.  6  by 
9%  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  282  Pages.  66  Illustrations. 
Price $3.00 

HOROLOGY 

Watch-Repairer's  Hand-Book.     By  F.  Kemlo. 

A  guide  for  the  young  watch-repairer  and  the  watch  owner,  con- 
taining clear  and  concise  instructions  on  taking  apart,  putting  to- 
gether and  thoroughly  cleaning  American  watches,  the  English  lever 
and  other  foreign  watches.  5  by  8  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  93 
Pages.      Illustrated.      Price $1.25 

INK 

Manufacture  of  Ink.     By  Sigmund  Lehner. 

Most  of  the  receipts  in  this  volume  have  been  practically  tested 
so  that  good  results  should  be  obtained  if  the  work  is  carried  on 
strictly  in  accordance  with  the  directions.  A  detailed  account  of 
the  raw  materials  required  and  their  properties  have  been  given, 
together  with  formulas  and  instructions  for  the  preparation  of  writ- 
ing, copying  and  hektograph  inks,  safetv  inks,  ink  extracts  and  pow- 
ders, colored  inks,  solid  inks,  lithographic  inks  and  cray- 
ons, printing  ink,  ink  or  analine  pencils,  marking  inks,  ink  special- 
ties, sympathetic  inks,  stamp  and  stencil  inks,  wash  blue,  etc.  S% 
by  7l4  Inches.    Cloth  Binding.    229  Pages.     Price $2.00 


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LATHE  WORK 

Manual  of  the  Hand  Lathe.     Hy  Eg-bert  I'.  Watson. 

Contains  concise  directions  for  working  in  the  lathe  all  kinds 
of  metals,  ivory,  bone  and  precious  woods ;  dyeing,  coloring  ind 
French  polishing ;  inlaying  by  veneers,  and  various  methods  prac- 
ticed to  produce  elaborate  work  with  de  patch  and  at  small  expense. 
5  by  8  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  136  Pages.  78  Illustrations. 
Price  $1.25 

Turuei's   Companion. 

Tlic  pri.naiy  (  ojcct  of  this  volume  is  to  explain  in  a  clear, 
concise  and  intelligent  manner  the  rudiments  of  turning.  It  con- 
tains instructions  in  concentric,  elliptic  and  eccentric  turning,  with 
directions  for  using  the  eccentric  cutter,  drill,  vertical  cutter  and 
circular  rest.  Patterns  and  instructions  for  working  them,  arc 
included.  5  by  8  Inches.  Goth  Binding.  135  Pages.  14  Plates. 
Price    $1.35 

LEATHER 

Practical  Tanning.     By  Louis  .A.  Flemming. 

A>  its  title  indicates,  this  volume  is  a  practical  and  not  a 
theoretical  or  technical  treatise,  and  the  tannery  processes  are  so 
clearly  described  and  with  such  precision  that  nothing  further  in 
the  way  of  e.xplanation  is  required.  It  is  the  foremost  book  on  that 
subject  published  in  any  language,  and  describes  fully  the  .Ameri- 
can practice  for  the  treatment  of  hides,  skins  and  pelts  of  every 
description.  It  is  a  veritable  cyclopedia  of  helpful  and  reliable 
information  on  all  branches  of  tanning,  dressing  and  dyeing  leather 
and  furs  and  allied  subjects.  6Ii  by  9'4  Inches.  Cloth  Binding. 
594  Pages.     6  Full- Page  Plate*.     Price $6.00 

LOCOMOTIVES 

American  Locomotive  Engines.     By  Emory  Edwards. 

This  volume  is  a  comipilation  of  information  and  data  on  the 
design,  construction  and  management  of  the  locomotive.  It  is  a 
practical  book  for  the  practical  man.  5J4  by  8  Inches.  Cloth  Bind- 
ing-   383  Pages.    78  Illustrations.    Price |i.5o 

MARBLE  WORKING 

Marble-Workers'  Manual     By  M.  L.  Booth. 

.Designed  for  the  use  of  marble-workers,  builders  and  owners 
of  houses.  Containing  practical  information  respecting  marbles 
in  general;  their  cutting,  working  and  polishing:  veneering  of  mar- 
ble ;  painting  upon  and  coloring  of  marble :  mosaics :  composition 
and  use  of  artificial  marble,  stuccos,  cements ;  receipts,  secrets,  etc. 
5»<i  bv  7'/S  Inchw.  Goth  Binding.  254  Pages,  i  Folding  Plate 
containing  "j-j  Illustrations.     Price I^^S 


MECHANICAL  AND  IXDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  9 

MARINE  ENGINEERING 

American  Marine  Engineer.    B3-  Emory  Edwards. 

The  writer  of  this  volume  has  endeavored  to  prepare  a  clear, 
concise  and  thoroughlj'  practical  work  for  marine  engineers  and 
students;  to  treat  each  subject  in  as  brief  and  concise  a  manner 
as  possible,  and  j'ct  preserve  that  clearness  and  fullness  of  state- 
t^.ent  so  desirable  in  a  work  of  this  description.  5^  by  8  Inches. 
Cloth  Binding.     440  Pages.     85  Illustrations.     Price $2.00 

Catechism  of  the  Marine  Steam  Engine.     By  Emory  Edwards. 

A  practical  work  for  marine  engineers  and  firemen,  written  in 
simple,  concise  language  by  one  of  their  number,  w^ho,  knowing 
from  his  own  experience  what  they  needed,  knew  also  how  to 
supply  that  want.  5^4  by  8  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  414  Pages. 
60  Illustrations.     Price    , $2.00 

MECHANICS 

English  and   American   Mechanic.     By   B.   Frank   Van    Cleve   and 

Emory  Edwards. 

The  purpose  of  this  volume  is  to  serve  as  a  handy  reference 
book  for  the  manufacturer  and  to  supply  the  intelligent  workman 
with  information  required  to  conduct  a  process  foreign,  perhaps,  to 
his  habitual  labor,  but  which  at  the  time  it  may  be  necessary  to 
practice.  It  is  an  every-day  handbook  for  the  workshop  and  factory, 
containing  several  thousand  receipts,  rules  and  tables  indispensable 
to  the  mechanic,  the  artisan  and  the  manufacturer.  It  is,  in  fact. 
an  encyclopedia  of  useful  technical  knowledge,  its  pages  present- 
ing an  array  of  information  indispensable  not  only  to  the  practi- 
cal manufacturer  and  mechanic,  but  also  to  the  amateur  workman. 
.=;'/2  by  7J4  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  476  Pages.  85  Illustrations. 
Price $2.50 

METAL-WORKING 

Complete  Practical  Machinist.     By  Joshua  Rose. 

One  of  the 'best-known  books  on  machine  shop  work,  now  in  its 
nineteenth  edition,  and  written  for  the  practical  workman  in  the 
language  of  the  workshop.  It  gives  full  practical  instructions  on 
the  use  of  all  kinds  of  metal-working  tools,  both  hand  and  machine, 
and  tells  how  the  work  should  be  properly  done.  It  covers  lathe 
work,  vise  work,  drills  and  drilling,  taps  and  dies,  hardening  and 
tempering,  the  making  and  use  of  tools,  tool  grinding,  marking  out 
work,  machine  tools,  etc.  No  machinist's  library  is  complete  with- 
out this  volume.  5^4  by  8  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  504  Pages.  395 
Illustrations.     Price    $2.50 

Metal  Worker's  Handy-Book  of  Receipts  and  Processes.    By  Wil- 
liam T.  Brannt. 
A  valuable  reference  book  for  all  engaged  in  the  working  of 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO,  INC. 


metals,  being  a  collection  of  formulas  and  practical  manipulations 
for  the  working  of  all  the  metals  and  alloys,  including  the  decora- 
tion and  beautifying  of  articles  manufactured  therefrom,  as  well 
as  their  preservation.  It  treats  on  alloys  and  amalgams;  harden- 
ing, tempering,  annealing;  bronzing  and  coloring;  casting  and 
founding;  cements;  cleansing,  grinding,  pickling,  polishing;  decorat- 
ing, enameling,  engraving,  etching;  electro-plating,  brassing,  cojv 
pering,  galvanizing,  gilding,  nickling,  silvering,  tinning,  etc.;  fluxes 
and  lutes;  lacquers,  paints  and  varnishes;  solders  and  soldering; 
welding  and  welding  compounds.  To  the  new  edition  has  been 
added  several  new  chapters  on  die-casting,  thermit,  oxyacetylene 
and  electric  welding,  galvanizing,  sherardizing.  etc..  5^2  by  jIj 
Inches.     Cloth  Binding.    575  Pages.    82  Illustrations.     Price. .  .$3.00 

Practical  Metal-Worker's  Assistant.    By  Oliver  Byrne. 

Comprising  metallurgic  chemistry,  the  arts  of  working  all 
metals  and  alloys,  forging  of  iron  and  steel,  hardening  and  tem- 
'pering,  melting  and  mixing,  casting  and  founding,  works  in  sheet 
metal,  the  processes  dependent  on  the  ductility  of  the  metals,  solder- 
ing and  the  most  improved  processes,  and  tools  employed  by  metal 
workers,  with  the  application  of  the  art  of  electro-metallurgy  to 
manufacturing  processes.  .-Kn  appendix,  describing  the  manufacture 
of  Russian  sheet  iron,  manufacture  of  malleable  iron  castings  and 
improvements  in  Bessemer  steel,  is  included.  6*2  by  9J4  Inches. 
Cloth  Binding.    683  Pages.     609  Illustrations.     Price $3-50 

Practical  Tool-Maker  and  Designer.     By  Herbert  S.  Wilson. 

/\n  elementary  treatise  upon  the  designing  of  tools  and  fixtures 
for  machine  tools  and  metal  working  machinery,  comprising  mod- 
ern examples  of  machines  with  fundamental  designs  for  tools  for 
the  actual  production  of  the  work.  The  almost  limitless  varia- 
tions in  tool  construction  are  based  on  a  few  fundamental  forms. 
and  an  effort  has  been  made  to  present  basic  ideas  in  the  design 
of  dies,  jigs,  special  fixtures,  etc..  to  serve  as  a  groundwork  for 
elaboration  and  variation  according  to  conditions.  6*4  by  9*4 
Inches.     Goth  Binding.    209  Pages.     189  Illustrations.     Price.. $2.50 

Modern  Practice  of  American  Machinists  and  Engineers.    By  Egbert 

P.  Watson. 

Including  the  construction,  application  and  use  of  drills,  lathe 
tools,  cutters  for  boring  cylinders  and  hollow  work  generally,  with 
the  most  economical  speed  for  the  5ame ;  the  results  verified  by 
actual  practice  at  the  lathe,  the  vise,  and  on  the  floor.  5' 4  by  8 
Inches.    Cloth  Binding.    276  Pages.    86  Illustrations.    Price. .  .$a.oo 

MINERALOGY 

Mineralogy  Simplified.    By  Henry  Erni  and  Amos  P.  Brown. 

A  handy  volume,  pocket  size  and  form,  for  the  prospector  and 
general  mineralogist,  giving  easy  methods  of  identifying  minerals, 
including  ores,  by  means  of  the  blowpipe,  by  flame   reactions,   by 


MECHANICAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  ii 

humid  chemical  analysis  and  by  physical  tests.  To  the  fourth  re- 
vised edition  has  been  added  much  entirely  new  matter,  including 
crystallography,  tables  for  the  determination  of  minerals  by  chemi- 
cal and  pjTognostic  characters  and  by  physical  characters.  4^/2  by 
6^  Inches.  Flexible  Leather.  414  Pages.  123  Illustrations. 
Price $2.50 

MINING  AND  PROSPECTING 

Prospector's  Field  Book  and  Guide.     By  H.  S.  Osborn. 

The  remarkable  sale  of  this  volume,  now  in  its  eighth  edition, 
indicates  unmistakably  the  firm  hold  which  it  has  on  the  confi- 
dence of  prospectors.  It  is  a  complete  and  thoroughly  reliable 
guide  and  companion  to  the  intelligent  and  enterprising  searcher 
after  ores  and  useful  minerals,  including  gems  and  gem  stones. 
Instructions  on  the  blowpipe  and  its  uses  and  the  analysis  of  ores 
are  given.  A  chapter  on  petroleum,  ozokerite,  asphalt  and  peat  is 
included,  together  with  a  glossary  of  terms  used  in  connection  with 
prospecting,  mining,  mineralogy,  geology,  etc.  It  is  the  best  book 
that  has  been  published  on  prospecting  in  any  language.  5^  by  ^Yi 
Inches.    Cloth  Binding.    377  Pages.    66  Illustrations.     Price. .  .$2.00 

Underground  Treasures:  How  and  Where  to  Find  Them.  By  James 

Orton. 

This  little  work  was  written  expressly  for  the  landholder,  the 
farmer,  the  mechanic,  the  miner,  the  laborer,  and  even  the  most 
unscientific.  It  is  designed  to  enable  such  persons  to  discover  for 
themselves  minerals  and  ores  and  thus  develop  the  resources  and 
ascertain  the  value  ^f  any  particular  farm  or  region.  To  enhance 
the  value  and  popularity  of  the  book  an  appendix  on  ore  deposits 
and  testing  minerals  with  the  blowpipe  has  been  added  to  the  pres- 
ent edition.  5  by  6^2  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  211  Pages.  Illus- 
trated.    Price    $1.50 

Practical    Manual    of    Minerals,    Mines    and    Mining,      By    H.    S. 

Osborn. 

A  practical  manual  for  the  mineralogist  and  miner,  containing 
suggestions  as  to  the  localities  and  associations  of  all  the  useful 
minerals,  full  descriptions  of  the  most  effective  methods  for  both  the 
qualitative  and  quantitative  analyses  of  each  of  these  minerals  and 
instructions  on  the  various  methods  of  excavating  and  umbering, 
including  all  brick  and  masonry  work  during  driving,  lining,  brac- 
ing and  other  operations.  The  practical  work  of  digging  and 
boring  artesian  and  other  deep  wells  is  fully  described  in  an  ap- 
pendix. dVi  by  9^  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  369  Pages.  171  Illus- 
trations.    Price  $4.50 

MOLDING   AND    FOUNDING 

Practical  Treatise  on  Foundry  Irons.     By  Edwark  Kirk. 

In  this  volume  it  has  been  endeavored  to  give  all  useful,  up- 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO,  IXC. 


to-date  data  on  the  manipulation  of  foundry  irons  as  actually  prac- 
ticed in  foundries  by  both  the  old  and  ne*-  methods,  and  thus  place 
before  the  foundry,  foundry  foreman,  molder  and  meltcr  such  a 
variety  of  methods  that  he  cannot  fail  to  obtain  the  desired  results 
under  any  and  all  of  the  various  conditions  met  with  in  the  manipu- 
lation of  these  irons.  It  is  a  practical  book  for  foundr>'men,  treat- 
ing fully  on  pig  iron  and  fracture  grading  of  pig  and  scrap  irons; 
scrap  irons,  mixing  irons,  elements  of  metalloids,  grading  iron  by 
analysis,  chemical  standards  for  iron  castings,  testing  cast  iron, 
semi-steel,  malleable  iron,  etc.  6],i  by  gl4  Inches.  Cloth  Binding. 
276  Pages.     Illustrated.     Price   $3.00 

Practical  Brass  and  Iron  Founder's  Guide.     By  James  Larkin. 

A  handy  book  for  the  use  of  the  practical  workman,  treating 
on  brass  founding,  molding  the  metals  and  their  alloys,  etc  The 
subjects  covered  include  the  properties  of  metals  ;  behavior  of  metals 
and  alloys  in  melting  and  congealing;  malleable  iron  castings: 
wrought  iron  castings ;  manufacture  of  steel  castings ;  casting  of 
brass;  casting  of  bronze;  modern  methods  of  founding  statues; 
bell  founding;  chill-casting;  new  process  of  casting;  autogenous 
soldering;  some  modern  bronzes.  A  complete  and  useful  guide  for 
the  workshop.  5J^  by  71^2  Inches.  Qoth  Binding.  394  Pages.  1 1 
Illustrations.    Price ta.50 

Moulder's  and  Founder's  Pocket  Guide.     By  Fred  Overman. 

A  practical  treatise  on  molding  anci  founding  in  green-sand, 
dry-sand,  loam  and  cement ;  the  molding  of  machine  fr.  nes,  mill- 
gear,  hollow  ware,  ornaments,  trinkets,  bells  and  statues ;  descrip- 
tion of  molds  for  iron,  bronze,  brass  and  other  metals  ;  plaster  of 
Paris,  sulphur,  wax,  etc. ;  the  construction  of  melting  furnaces ;  the 
melting  and  founding  of  metals ;  the  composition  of  alloys  and  their 
nature,  etc.  To  the  latest  edition  has  been  added  a  supplement  on 
statuary  and  ornamental  molding,  ordnance,  malleable  iron  cast- 
ings, etc.,  by  .'\.  A.  Fesquet.  5'4  by  7J-2  Inches.  Cloth  Binding. 
342  Pages.    44  Illustrations.     Price  la.oo 

Cupola  Furnace.    By  Edward  Kirk. 

A  practical  treatise  on  the  construction  and  management  of 
foundry  cupolas;  comprising  improvements  on  cupolas  and  meth- 
ods of  their  construction  and  management ;  tuyeres ;  modern  cupo- 
las;  cupola  fuels;  fluxing  of  iron:  getting  up  cupola  stocks:  run- 
ning a  continuous  stream;  scientifically  designed  cupolas;  spark- 
catching  devices;  blast-pipes  and  blast;  blowers:  foundry  tram 
rail.  etc.  6'4  by  g]4  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  459  Pages.  106  Illus- 
trations.    Price $4.00 

PAINTING  AND  PAPER  HANGING 

Painter,    Gilder    and     Vamisher's    Companion.      By    William    T. 
Brannt. 
This  volume  gives  a  clear,  concise  and  comprehensive  view  of 


MECHANICAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  13 

the  principal  materials  to  be  used  and  the  operations  to  be  con- 
ducted in  the  practice  of  the  various  trades  of  painting,  gilding, 
varnishing,  etc.  It  describes  the  manufacture  and  test  of  pigm'ents, 
the  arts  of  painting,  graining,  marbling,  staining,  lacquering,  japan- 
ning, bronzing,  polishing,  sign-writing,  varnishing,  glass-staining 
and  gilding  on  glass,  together  with  coach  painting  and  varnishing 
and  the  principles  of  the  harmony  and  contrast  of  colors.  Many- 
useful  receipts  on  miscellaneous  related  subjects  are  included.  5^ 
by  7^  Inches.  Clo*^^h  Binding.  395  Pages.  9  Illustrations. 
Price  $1.75 

Paper-Hanger's  Companion.     By  James  Arrowsmith. 

A  very  useful  and  practical  handbook  for  the  householder,  as 
well  as  for  the  paper-hanger,  treating  fully  on  the  tools  and  pastes 
required  for  paper  hanging;  preparatory  work;  selection  and  hang- 
ing of  wall  papers;  distemper  painting  and  cornice-tinting;  stencil 
work;  replacing  sash-cord  and  broken  window-panes,  and  useful 
wrinkles  and  receipts.  A  new,  thoroughly  revised  and  much  en- 
larged edition.  5  by  7^  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  150  Pages.  25 
Illustrations.     Price   $1.25 

Complete  Guide  for  Coach  Painters,     By  M.  Arlot. 

A  practical  guide  for  the  practical  man,  containing  full  instruc- 
tions on  the  painting  and  varnishing  of  coaches,  cars,  etc.,  as  prac- 
ticed in  this  country  and  abroad. 

(New    edition    preparing.) 

PERFUMERY 

Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Perfumery.    By  C.  Deite. 

Contains  directions  for .  making  all  kinds  of  perfumes,  sachet 
powders,  fumigating  materials,  dentrifices ;  hair  pomades,  tonics, 
dyes,  etc. ;  cosmetics  and  other  toilet  preparations,  together  with  a 
full  account  of  the  volatile  oils  and  their  testing;  balsams,  resins 
and  other  natural  and  artificial  perfume-substances,  including  the 
manufacture  of  fruit  ethers  and  tests  of  their  purity.  s%-  by  7^ 
Inches.    Cloth  Binding.    358  Pages.    28  Illustrations.    Price $3.00 

RAILROADS 

Pocket-Book  for  Railroad  and  Civil  Engineers.    By  Oliver  Byrne. 

Contains  exact  and  concise  methods  for  laying  out  railroad 
curves,  switches,  frog  angles  and  crossings;  the  staking  out  of  work, 
leveling;  the  calculation  of  cuttings  ^nd  embankments,  earthwork, 
etc.  4  by  6^  Inches.  Flexible  Leather.  163  Pages.  79  Illustra- 
tions.    Price $i'75 

Street  Railway  Motors.    By  Herman  Haupt. 

A  brief  review  of  plans  proposed  for  motive  power  on  street 
railways,  their  merits  and  defects,  with  data  on  the  cost  of  plants 


14  HENRY  CAREY  BAIRP  &  CO.  INX. 

♦    and  operation  of  the  various   systems   in  use.     5^  by  7V2   Inches. 
Cloth.  Binding.    213  Pages.     Price  $1.50 

RECEIPTS 

Techno-Chemical  Receipt  Book.    l>v  \\  illiam  T.  Brannt  and  William 

H.  VVahl. 

The  principal  aim  in  preparing  this  volume  has  been  to  give 
an  accurate  and  compendious  collection  of  approved  receipts  and 
processes  of  practical  application  in  the  industries  and  for  general 
purposes.  In  the  laborious  task  of  compilation  only  the  latest  and 
best  authorities  have  been  resorted  to,  and  whenever  different  pro- 
cesses of  apparently  equal  value  of  attaining  the  same  end  have 
been  found  more  than  one  has  been  introduced.  Every  care  has 
been  taken  to  select  the  very  best  receipts  of  each  kind  and  there 
are  few  persons,  no  matter  in  what  business  or  trade  they  may  be 
engaged,  who  will  not  find  in  this  volume  something  of  use  and 
benefit  to  them. 

It  is  a  compact  repository  of  practical  and  scientific  iiiforma- 
tion,  containing  thousands  of  receipts  and  processes  covering  the 
latest  and  most  useful  discoveries  in  chemical  technology  and  their 
practical  application  in  the  useful  arts  and  industries.  Most  of  the 
receipts  have  been  practically  tested  by  competent  men  before  being 
given  to  the  public. 

It  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  handbooks  of  the  age  and  indis- 
pensable for  every  practical  man.  5'j  by  7^'i  Inches.  Cloth  Bind- 
ing.    495  Page?.     78  Illustrations.  Price    la.SO 

RUBBER 

India  Rubber,  Gutta-Percha  and  Balata.    By  William  T   Brannt. 

Covers  the  occurrence,  geographical  distribution,  and  cultiva- 
tion of  rubber  plants:  manner  of  obtaining  and  preparing  the  raw 
materials;  modes  of  working  and  utilizing  them,  including  washing, 
loss  in  washing,  maceration,  mixing,  vulcanizing,  rul>l>er  and  gutta- 
percha compounds,  utilization  of  waste,  balata  and  statistics  of  com- 
merce. 

(New  edition  preparing.) 

SCIENCE 

Home  Experiments  in  Science.     By  T.  O'Conor  Sloane. 

Tlie  experiments  in  iliis  volume  are  such  as  can  be  performed, 
with  luit  few  exceptions,  with  home-made  apparatus.  The  book  is 
intended  for  botli  tlie  young  and  old.  and  the  experiments,  which  are 
entertaining  and  instructive,  cover  mechanics,  general  and  mole- 
cular physics,  soap  bubbles  and  capillarity.  Detailed  instructions 
in  the  necessary  mechanical  operations  and  illustrations  of  the 
experiments  and  apparatus  are  given.  5'i  by  7'^  Inches.  Cloth 
Rinding.     261   Pages.     q6  Illustrations.     Price   fx-So 


MECHANICAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  15 

SHEET-METAL  WORKING 

Practical  Work-Shop  Companion  for  Tin,  Sheet-Iron  and  Copi>er- 

Plate  Workers.     By  Leroy  J.  Blinn. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  popular  books  on  sheet-metal  working 
that  has  ever  been  published.  It  is  a  practical  work  of  instruc- 
tion and  reference  and  contains  rules  for  describing  various  kinds 
of  patterns  used  by  tin,  sheet-iron  and  copper-plate  workers ;  practi- 
cal geometry;  mensuration  of  surfaces  and  solids;  tables  of  the 
weights  and  strength  of  metals  and  other  materials ;  tables  of  areas 
and  circumferences  of  circles ;  composition  of  metallic  alloys  and 
solders,  with  numerous  valuable  receipts  and  manipulations  for 
every-day  use  in  the  workshop.  554  by  7^A  Inches.  Cloth  Bind- 
ing.   296  Pages.    170  Illustrations.    Price $2.50 

Sheet  Metal  Worker's  Instructor,    By  Reuben  H.  Warn. 

This  volume,  which  has  been  well  tried  and  well  proven,  still 
enjoys  great  popularity  among  zinc,  sheet  iron,  copper  and  tinplate 
workers  and  others.  It  contains  a  selection  of  geometrical  problems, 
also  practical  and  simple  rules  for  describing  the  various  patterns 
required  in  the  different  branches  of  the  above  trades.  To  the 
latest  edition  has  been  added  considerable  new  matter  of  great 
practical  value  on  sheet  metal  work  processes,  including  tools,  joints, 
solders,  fluxes,  etc.,  as  well  as  geometry  applied  to  sheet  metal  work, 
which  increases  very  much  the  usefulness  of  the  book.  The  appen- 
dix contains  instructions  for  boiler  making;  mensuration  of  sur- 
faces and  solids ;  rules  for  calculating  the  weight  of  different  figures 
of  iron  and  steel ;  tables  of  the  weights  of  iron,  steel,  etc.,  and  much 
other  valuable  data.  6  by  9^  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  252  Pages. 
32  Plates.    96  Illustrations.    Price $2.50 

SIGN  WRITING 

Sign  Writing  and  Glass  Embossing.     By  James  Callingham. 

A  complete,  practical,  illustrated  manual  of  the  art  as  prac- 
ticed by  the  leading  sign  writers.  The  chief  object  of  the  book  is 
to  assist  the  beginner  in  acquiring  a  thorough  knowledge  of  sign 
writing  and  glass  embossing  and  to  aid,  with  suggestions  and  in- 
formation, those  who,  having  had  some  practice,  fall  short  of  that 
excellence  which  it  is  desirable  to  attain.  The  latest  edition  has 
been  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  a  new  chapter  on  "The  Art  of  Let- 
ter Painting  Made  Easy,"  by  James  G.  Badenoch,  in  which  all  the 
necessary  details  in  drawing  letters  are  given  with  care  and  pre- 
cision. sVa  by  7^  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  258  Pages.  Fully  Illus- 
trated.   Price $1.75 

SOAP 

Soap  Maker's  Hand  Book.    By  William  T.  Brannt. 

The  latest  and  most  complete  book  published  in  the  English 
language   on   the    art   of   soap   making,    and    covers    the   materials. 


i6  HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO..  IN'C. 

processes  and  receipts  fur  every  descriptiun  of  soap.  Practical  and 
comprehensive  instructions  on  the  modern  methods  employed  in 
their  manufacture  are  given.  In  addition  to  the  exhaustive  direc- 
tions for  the  manufacture  of  all  kinds  of  soap  both  by  boiling  and 
the  cold  and  semi->varm  processes,  numerous  formulas  of  stocks 
available  for  the  purpose  are  also  included,  as  well  as  receipts  for 
washing  powders,  liquid  soaps,  medicated  soaps  and  other  soap 
specialties.  Nothing  has  been  omitted  in  the  preparation  of  this 
comprehensive  and  exhaustive  work.  Everyone  connected  in  any 
way  with  the  soap  and  allied  industries  should  have  this  volume, 
6'4  by  914  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  512  Pages.  54  Illustrations. 
Price  $6-00 

STEAM  BOILERS 

Steam  Boilers.     By  Joshua   Rose. 

.\  practical  treatise  on  boiler  construction  and  examination  for 
the  use  of  practical  boiler  makers,  boiler  users  and  inspectors,  and 
embracing  in  plain  figures  all  the  calculations  necessary  in  design- 
ing and  classifying  steam  boilers.  .\  study  of  this  book  will  enable 
any  engineer,  having  an  ordinary  knowledge  of  decimal  fractions, 
to  thoroughly  understand  the  proper  construction  and  determine  the 
strength  of  a  modern  steam  boiler.  6'4  by  9':»  Inches.  Qoth  Bind- 
ing.   258  Pages.    73  Illustrations.    Price 9^.50 

STEAM  ENGINEERING 

Practical  Steam  Engineer's  Guide.     I'.y  Emory  Edwards. 

A  practical  guide  and  ready  reference  for  engineers,  firemen  and 
steam  users,  treating  on  the  design,  construction  and  management  of 
American  stationary,  portable  and  steam  fire  engines,  steam  pumps, 
boilers,  iniectors,  governors,  indicators,  pistons  and  rings,  safety 
valves  and  steam  gauges.  5*4  by  8  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  420 
Pages.    119  Illustrations.    Price  la-SO 

900  Examination  Questions  and  Answers  for  Engineers  and  Fire- 
men.    Hy  KiH'iry   Iuluard>. 

This  little  book  was  not  gotten  up  for  the  use  of  "experts"  or 
educated  engineers,  but,  on  the  contrary,  it  was  written  for  the 
use  and  benefit  of  that  great  number  of  worthy  and  ambitious  men 
of  limited  education  who  run  steam  engines  and  desire  to  increase 
their  knowledge  and  better  their  p«-)sitions  by  obtaining  a  I'.  S.  Gov- 
ernment or  .State  License.  The  author  has  used  the  plain,  every- 
day language  of  the  engine  and  fire-room  in  a  conversational  way 
so'that  anyone  can  understand  it.  3»'S  by  5'^  Inches.  Flexible  C'^th. 
240  Pages.     15  Illustrations.     Price   tx.50 

American  Steam  Engineer.     By  Emory  Edwards. 

\  theoretical  and  practical  treatise  for  the  use  of  engineers, 
machinists,  boiler  makers  and  students,  containing  much  informa- 
ti-^n  and  data  on  the  design  and  construction  of  engines  and  Iwilers. 


MECHANICAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  17 

5%  by  8  Inches.     Cloth    Binding.      419    Pages.      77    Illustrations. 
Price  $2.00 

Slide  Valve  Practically  Explained.    By  Joshua  Rose. 

Contains  simple  and  complete  practical  demonstrations  of  the 
operation  of  each  element  in  a  slide-valve  movement,  and  illus- 
trating the  effects  of  variations  in  their  proportions,  by  examples 
carefully  selected  from  the  most  recent  and  successful  practice. 
The  object  of  this  book  is  to  present  to  practical  men  a  clear  ex- 
planation of  the  operations  of  a  slide  valve  under  the  conditions 
in  which  it  is  found  in  actual  practice.  5^/i  by  7^  Inches.  Cloth 
Binding.     lOO  Pages.    35  Illustrations.     Price   $1.25 

STEEL  AND  IRON 

Tool-Steel.     By  Otto  Thallner. 

A  concise  handbook  on  tool-steel  in  general,  its  treatment  in 
the  operations  of  forging,  annealing,  hardening,  tempering,  etc., 
and  the  appliances  therefor.  It  is  chiefly  intended  as  a  guide  to 
the  master-workman  and  the  intelligent  tool-maker,  and,  in  ac- 
cordance with  this  object,  is  exclusively  adapted  to  practical  needs. 
The  directions  and  working  appliances  collected  in  this  vol- 
ume have  all  been  taken  from  actual  practice  and  tell  exactly 
how  the  work  is  to  be  done.  6%  by  g%  Inches.  Cloth  Binding. 
180  Pages.    69  Illustrations.     Price  $2.00 

Tables  Showing  the  Weight  of  Different  Lengths  of  Round,  Square 

and  Flat  Bar  Iron,  Steel,  etc. 

This  little  book  gives  tables  showing  the  weight  of  square 
iron  from  J4  inch  to  5  inches  square,  i  to  18  feet  long;  weight  of 
round  iron  %  inch  to  5  inches  diameter,  i  to  18  feet  long;  weight 
of  flat  iron  ^  inch  to  i  inch  thick,  i  to  18  feet  long,  and  other 
tables.    53^  by  3^  Inches.    Qoth  Binding.    83  Pages.   Price 75c 

SURVEYING 

Practical  Surveyor's  Guide.    By  Andrew  Duncan. 

A  concise  and  practical  work  containing  the  necessary  infor- 
imation  to  make  any  person  of  common  capacity  a  finished  land  sur- 
veyor vvithout  the  aid  of  a  teacher.  It  gives  to  the  learner  the  re- 
quired instructions  in  a  clear  and  simple  manner,  unburdened  with 
unnectssary  matter.  5%  by  7^2  Inches.  Qoth  Binding.  214 
Pages.    72  Illustrations.    Price $1.75 

TEXTILES 

Manufacture  of  Narrow  Woven  Fabrics.    By  E.  A.  Posselt. 

Gives  description  of  the  various  yarns  used,  the  construction 
of  weaves  and  novelties  in  fabric  structure,  descriptive  matter  as 
to  looms,  etc.  5  by  7^/2  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  198  Pages.  247 
Illustrations.     Price    $2.00 


i8  HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO..  INC. 

Recent  ImproTementa  in  Textile  Machinery  Relating  to  Wearing. 

By  E.  A.  Possclt. 

A  treatise  giving  descriptive  illustrations  of  the  construction 
and  operation  of  various  looms,  jacquards,  warpers,  bcamers,  slash- 
ers, spoolers,  etc.,  also  illustrating  and  explaining  different  makes 
of  shuttles,  temples,  i)ickers,  reeds,  heddlcs,  harness,  etc.  Designed 
for  the  use  of  manufacturers,  mill  managers,  designers,  boss  weav- 
ers, loom  fixers,  students  and  inventors.  2  XOlumes.  8  by  n 
Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  Part  I,  184  Pages.  600  Illustrations.  Part 
II,  174  Pages.     600  Illustrations.     Price,  per  volume $3.00 

Wool,  Cotton,  Silk.     By  E.  A.  Possclt. 

This  work  contains  detail  information  as  to  the  various  ma- 
chines and  processes  used  in  the  manufacture  of  either  wool,  cot- 
ton or  silk  from  the  raw  material  to  the  finished  fabric,  and  covers 
both  woven  and  knit  goods.  8  by  1 1  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  409 
Pages.     Fully  Illustrated.     Price    IS-oo 

Textile  Calculations.     By  E.  A.  Posselt. 

A  complete  guide  to  calculations  relating  to  the  construction 
of  all  kinds  of  yarns  and  fabrics,  the  analysis  of  cloth,  speed, 
power  and  belt  calculations.  8  by  il  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  138 
Pages.     74  Illustrations.     Price  $a.oo 

Dictionary  of  Weaves.     Part  I.     By  E.  A.  Posselt. 

.\  collection  of  all  weaves  from  four  to  nine  harness.  The 
weaves,  which  number  two  thousand,  are  conveniently  arranged  for 
handy  use.  5  by  7I.2  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  85  Pages.  Fully  Il- 
lustrated.     Price   $a.oo 

Technology  of  Textile  Design.     By  E.  A.  Possclt. 

.•\  practical  treatise  on  the  construction  and  application  of 
weaves  for  all  kinds  of  textile  fabrics,  giving  also  full  particulars 
as  to  the  analysis  of  cloth.  8  by  11  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  324 
Pages.     1,500  Illustrations.     Price $5-oo 

Cotton  Manufacturing.     By   E.  A.   Posselt 

A  complete  treatise  on  modern  processes  and  machiner>'  used 
in  connection  with  cotton  spinning,  including  all  calculations. 

Part  I. — Gives  a  complete  description  of  the  manufactitre  of 
cotton  yarns  from  planting  the  seed  to  the  sliver,  ready  for  the 
drawing  or  combing;  covering:  fibre,  ginning,  mixing,  picking, 
scutching  and  carding.     190  Pages.     104  Illustrations. 

Part  II.— Covers  combing,  drawing,  roller  covering  and  fly 
frames.     292  Pages.     Fully  Illustrated. 

bVi  by  gVi  Inches.    Goth  Binding.    Price,  per  volume $3xx> 


MECHANICAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKS.  19 

VARNISHES 

Varnishes,  Lacquers,  Printing  Inks  and  Sealing- Waxes.     By  Wil- 
liam T.  Brannt. 

The  manufacturer,  skilled  mechanic,  amateur  and  others  de- 
siring detailed  and  reliable  information  regarding  the  preparation 
of  fat  and  volatile  varnishes,  lacquers,  printing  inks  and  sealing- 
waxes  will  find  the  required  instructions  in  this  volume.  A  de- 
scription of  the  properties  of  the  raw  materials  used  and  simple 
methods  of  testing  them  are  given.  An  appendix  on  the  art  of 
varnishing  and  lacquering  has  also  been  added  in  which  will  be 
found  a  large  number  of  valuable  receipts  for  putties,  stains  for 
wood,  bone,  ivory,  etc.  5^4  by  7^  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  338 
Pages.    39  Illustrations.    Price  $3.00 

VINEGAR 

Practical  Treatise  on  the   Manufacture   of  Vinegar.     By  William 

T.  Brannt. 

In  this,  the  third  edition,  while  the  same  arrangement  of  tlie 
book  has  been  adhered  to  as  in  the  previous  edition,  it  has  been 
thoroughly  revised  and  largely  rewritten,  obsolete  matter  having 
been  entirely  eliminated  and  new  matter  introduced.  It  is  the  most 
complete  and  up-to-date  book  published  on  the  subject,  and  de- 
scribes fully  and  in  detail  the  various  present-day  processes  for 
the  manufacture  of  vinegar,  with  special  reference  to  wood  vinegar 
and  other  by-products  obtained  in  the  destructive  distillation  of 
wood,  as  well  as  the  preparation  of  acetates.  It  also  treats  fully 
on  the  manufacture  of  cider  and  fruit-wines  ;  preservation  of  fruits 
and  vegetables  by  canning  and  evaporation ;  preparation  of  fruit- 
butters,  jellies,  marmalades,  pickles,  mustards,  etc.,  and  the  preser- 
vation of  meat,  fish  and  eggs.  A  practical  and  indispensable  book 
for  everyone  connected  in  any  way  with  these  industries.  6^  by 
9J4  Inches.  Cloth  Binding.  543  Pages.  loi  Illustrations,  Price ...  $6.00 


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